“Faded Elegance”
Astonishing place, a folly. Built as royal palace at turn of the 20th C, but never used as such, as monarchy ousted in 1910.
It is certainly palatial, with magnificent blue tiling depicting a variety of battles,etc. The decor is, for my taste, over the top: lots of highly decorated stone/plaster carvings, not all in good condition. Dining room elegantly proportioned, decorated with frescoes? of European voyages of discovery. Breakfast: failry standard fare. Dinner (book in advance) very good:100 Euros for two, incl btl of wine. We enjoyed jugged goat. Bedrooms of good size, but not sound-proof. Big bathtub.. Free WiFi available only in the bar. The Palace adjoins an old convent, no longer in use but worth a visit, if that's your thing. Arthur Wellesley (later Duke of Wellington, Napoleon's conqueror at Waterloo), slept in the convent after defeating the French at the Battle of Bussaco, 1810. Palace also enjoys a history as a meeting place for WW2 spies. Formal gardens. The palace sits almost on top of quite a high hill. Be careful as you drive there (and back): hairpin bends and steep inclines. It's surrounded by wonderful forest, with lovely walks, and terrific views. Guests were a mixed lot...some elderly couples there for a week or more, and some large families, with children, there for a short break. Military museum a short walk away. I'm glad that we stayed there. My overall impression is one of faded elegance. Needs significant investment to become world-class.