Cannaregio
For visitors arriving by rail or by bus, Cannaregio is Venice’s front door and the start of the Grand Canal. It sees a lot of passing traffic in terms of canal boats and visitors en route to San Marco, but is otherwise quieter and less touristy than central Venice. Points of interest include the Ghetto area (the original Jewish enclave) with its museums and the majestic Ca d’Oro palace, one of the iconic buildings of the Grand Canal.
Castello
Bordering San Marco and the Rialto and stretching east to some of Venice’s quietest greenest parts, Castello is the city’s most varied ‘sestiere’. Its most famous aspect is the Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront next to the Bridge of Sighs, with picture-postcard views onto the lagoon. Yet a few yards from the tourist hoards, the backstreets are quiet and typically Venetian. There are many outstanding churches and art collections in this area.
Dorsoduro
Dorsoduro is home to the great art institutions of the Gallerie dell'Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the landmark church of Santa Maria della Salute. However those who take the time to explore the area, and particularly the eastern section, will find some of Venice’s most picturesque squares and alleys. The area also benefits from the influence of the university with some lively bars and nightlife (rare in Venice).
La Giudecca
Ten minutes by waterbus from Piazza San Marco, the quiet residential island of Giudecca, is the place to escape the crowds. The only monument of note is Palladio’s church Il Redentore, focus of a major festival in late July. The atmosphere is typically Venetian and there are a handful of restaurants.
Lido di Venice
Venice’s beach suburb, Lido is 10 minutes from San Marco by waterbus. By the late 19th century it was the smartest bathing resort in Italy. Today, this 18 km-long sandbar is less fashionable; most of its glamour is provided by a couple of famous hotels with their own private beaches, and the glitzy Venice Film Festival, held August/September. The beaches gets busy in summer with Italian and foreign tourists.
Mestre
Mestre is Venice’s dormitory town, where most of its workers live and return across the water each night. Although it has no Venetian atmosphere, it’s only 10 km from Marco Polo airport and is a relatively cheap base for exploring Venice and the Veneto. The Brenta Canal, famous for its elegant Palladian villas, empties in to the lagoon next to Mestre and stretches west to the historic university city of Padua.
Murano
A 10-minute journey across the lagoon, Murano has been home to Venice’s glassblowers since the 13th century. Workshops are open to the public, alongside two fine glass museums. The atmospheric Church of Santa Maria e Donato is one of the oldest in Venice. A 45-minute journey away, Burano is a beautiful little island famous for its colourful houses. Its peaceful near-deserted neighbour, Torcello, boasts a wonderful ancient cathedral.
San Marco
San Marco (St Mark’s) is quintessential visitors’ Venice. The Piazza San Marco, famous for its pigeons, campanile, basilica, Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and expensive cafes, is unmissable. The waterfront views are legendary and more gondolas depart from here than anywhere else in the city. In season the Piazza teems with day trippers though just a block or two away streets are quiet and offer more museums and palaces to explore.
San Polo
Home of the Rialto Market, San Polo is the busiest ‘sestiere’ (district) after San Marco. For local colour, great little shops, bars and cafes, the Rialto market area is a must. Dining on the Grand Canal next to the iconic Rialto Bridge is a romantic Venetian cliché. Near the bridge, the Ca’ Pesaro is home to the Museum of Modern Art while 16th-century masterpieces are on show at the Frari church and Scuola Grande di San Rocco.
Santa Croce
At the start of the Grand Canal, Santa Croce is set immediately across from the bus station and railway station. It is a peaceful quarter adjacent to, but largely unaffected by the visitor hubbub. The picturesque Ponte degli Scalzi is a great place for watching the busy canal traffic and there are many fines churches to explore off the beaten tourist track. The Rialto Bridge is only a 10-minute walk or boat ride away.