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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 British Columbia Skiing
There are a few skiing seasons left before the 2010 Winter Olympics shines a spotlight on British Columbia. Get a jump on the crowds by traveling now to explore the province and to discover its gems before the hordes arrive. You'll soon realize why the slopes here are considered to be among the finest in the world.
Whistler Blackcomb Many call this two-mountain powerhouse—which will host the alpine and Nordic Olympic events—the premier ski resort in North America. Certainly the statistics are impressive: Whistler and Blackcomb are a coast-hugging two-hour drive from Vancouver, they have the longest vertical rise of any mountain in North America (a vertical mile each), their combined terrain of 8,000 acres provides schussers 200-plus trails (from beginner to double diamond) serviced by 37 lifts. And then there's Whistler's European-style pedestrian village: With 90 bars and restaurants, 115 hotels and condos, and 200 shops, the resort is an alpine mini-metropolis. And did we mention that there's skiing here virtually year-round: Horstman Glacier, at the top of Blackcomb, is open until mid-summer. Big White and Silver Star Resorts These sister resorts are located near Kelowna—Big White is east of Kelowna, Silver Star to the north—in the wine region of central British Columbia. Their seasons run from about mid-November through mid-April, with average snowfall topping 24 feet. Each mountain has in excess of 100 runs, with combined terrain of 5,500 acres divided roughly between the two. Though both have a Telus park for snowboarders as well as a tubing center, Silver Star appeals more to families because of its kids center: Here, children up to five spend active time indoors and out, and older kids fine-tune their skiing and boarding. The sessions extend through the evening, with programs such as dinner and tubing, ice skating and hot chocolate, and even movie screenings. Big White's accommodations—some on the slopes, some in the village—run the gamut from full-service hotels to condos to stand-alone chalets; at the Victorian-themed Silver Star, where the buildings are painted in bright colors, the new Snowbird Lodge has granite counter tops and heated floors. Sun Peaks Resort In the Thompson Okanagan region of interior British Columbia, an hour from Kamloops, Sun Peaks has 3,700 acres of terrain, 117 runs, and 17 miles of groomed Nordic trails. One of the resort's more unique events—a torchlight fondue—occurs every Thursday night. Guests take the chairlift to Sunburst Restaurant and gorge on fondue (including a chocolate fondue dessert) before skiing lazily down the torch-lit slopes. Lodgings encompass large properties in the village, B&Bs a few miles away, and chalets and condos dotted around the mountains. Fernie Alpine Resort In the southeast corner of B.C., three hours from Calgary, Fernie Alpine averages 29 feet of snowfall each season and was something of a local secret until Resorts of the Canadian Rockies snapped it up. Set above the former coal-mining town of Fernie, the ski resort has 107 trails and five bowls that capture consistent powder. Many come here for the steeps that weave between the trees—almost a third of the trails are diamond or double diamond. Kicking Horse Mountain Resort The relatively new Kicking Horse—it opened in 2000—looms above the town of Golden, less than three hours west of Calgary. The mountain has a vertical rise of 4,100 feet (in Canada, second only to Whistler Blackcomb) and 106 runs, more than half of which are advanced. The adventurous can try their hand at ice climbing, too: There are a number of beginner routes just 15 minutes from the resort. Part of the Kicking Horse development incorporates a grizzly bear refuge for orphaned cubs that serves as an educational and research facility. Another lure is the Eagle's Eye, Canada's highest restaurant. Perched 7,700 feet above sea level, at the terminus of one of the express lifts, it serves up Rocky Mountain dishes with views of the surrounding peaks. Red Resort The oldest ski resort in Canada—the country's first downhill race took place here in 1896—Red Resort today has 83 runs served by six lifts. The slopes remain relatively uncrowded at this two-mountain destination in southeastern B.C., near Rossland, just north of the U.S. border. This is one place schussers don't come to for the après-ski scene or nightlife but just for testing runs: Ninety percent of them are intermediate or advanced. Accommodations on the mountain are mostly condos, while Rossland, an archetypal gold-mining town turned ski resort, has cute boutiques and independently run motels and restaurants. At least that's the story for now: The resort is embarking on a 15-year scheme that will increase the number of ski-in/ski-out lodgings and will add restaurants, shops, and a dedicated beginners' ski area. Mount Washington Alpine Resort In central Vancouver Island, about 60 miles north of Nanaimo, this resort is in the Beaufort Range and looks onto the Pacific. Mount Washington receives more than 30 feet of snow every season. Recent improvements include The Outback, 400 acres of new double-black-diamond terrain that opened last season, adding to the resort's 30 miles of cross-country trails and night snow tubing. Lodging in the village remains unchanged, with 3,500 beds split between lodges, condos, chalets, and B&Bs. Grouse Mountain Though not of the same caliber as British Columbia's other mountains, Grouse—also known as the Peak of Vancouver—is only 15 minutes from downtown Van, and in season, it's the place to ski after a day at the office (a common practice among Vancouverites). The mountain, though small, has 25 runs, night skiing, sleigh rides, and snowshoeing trails. Some trippers eschew the winter sports altogether, however, and ride the lift just to sample The Observatory's Northwest cuisine and to watch the lights of Vancouver glimmering at night. Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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