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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Bermuda
About 600 miles east of North Carolina and warmed by the Gulf Stream, Bermuda is a 21-square-mile fish hook–shaped archipelago where British, American, and Caribbean influences fuse to create a unique culture. Bermudians happily retain elements from their past, exemplified in their cottage colonies, quaint chintz furniture, and hint of a British accent. Almost 140 isles comprise the chain, but the prime attractions—its famous pink beaches, golf courses, and the bustling capital of Hamilton—are on the three biggest: central Main Island; St. George's Island, to the northeast; and southwestern Somerset Island. Nine parishes make up Bermuda; most noteworthy are St. George's, where the British first settled; Pembroke, site of busy Hamilton; and Southampton, where you'll find the best beaches. Attractions & Activities Hamilton is the center of Bermuda's economic, political, and social life. Because of its myriad dining, nightlife, shopping, and lodging options, as well as a seaport that attracts a fair number of cruise ships, it's the liveliest spot on Bermuda. Parallel to the harbor, Front and Reid streets are the tourist hubs of the city. Here you can people-watch, bar-hop, shop for that perfect pair of Bermuda shorts, and sample an impressive selection of restaurants. St. George's was the site of much of Bermuda's tumultuous history, from its days as a stop on the transatlantic slave route to its role in the American Civil War (it was a Confederate shipbuilding center). Today, visitors can board the Deliverance, a docked replica of the 1609 schooner built by the first English settlers who were shipwrecked here on their way to Jamestown, Virginia (441-297-1642). Go further back in time by wandering the narrow cobblestone streets to the Tucker House Museum, an 18th-century merchant's house that offers a glimpse of the life of Bermuda's prosperous class some 200 years ago (441-297-0545). Three blocks away, the Bermuda National Trust Museum occupies the 17th-century Globe Hotel, one of the British territory's oldest stone buildings, and outlines Bermudian history (441-236-6483). In the west, on the tip of Bermuda's fish hook, the Royal Naval Dockyard is an immense fortress that was a major Atlantic outpost for the British Navy from its founding in 1809 until 1951. Within the Keep, or the interior of the fortress, is the Bermuda Maritime Museum. Atop the fort's citadel is the Commissioner's House, the world's first cast-iron building, which houses exhibits charting Bermuda's military and nautical history and its role in the African slave trade. Visitors are free to scamper the Dockyard's grounds, among the cannons and gun defenses, and climb its bastions for breathtaking views of the cliffs and sea below (441-234-1333; bmm.bm). Farther south, Southampton has Bermuda's most famous beaches, including the stunning pink-sand Horseshoe Bay. In the summer, Horseshoe can get crowded, but there are plenty of lesser-known, equally good beaches just steps from its craggy coves. The directly adjacent East Whale Bay has far more available sand space. To the north, Elbow Beach, in Paget Parish, is a serene expanse of sand and sea perfect for younger, less experienced swimmers. Farther north, the tiny, mostly uninhabited islands collectively known as Castle Roads, in St. George's Castle Harbour, have excellent snorkeling, thanks to the 18th-century shipwrecks offshore. Bermuda has the world's highest concentration of golf courses per square mile—nine are scattered across its scant landmass. Catering to every golfer's fancy, they offer different experiences and perspectives on the island. There are three public courses (441-234-4653; bermudagolftravel.com) and six private courses that grant access to nonmembers on a restricted basis. Of the latter, the hilly Fairmont Southampton Golf Club ranks among Condé Nast Traveler's Top 100 golf resorts. Bermuda's newest course, the Tuckers Point Golf Club, in St. George's Tuckers Town, has the aerodynamic TifEagle Bermuda green and one of the island's most impressive views: While playing the 13th tee, you can see across Harrington Sound all the way to the Royal Naval Dockyard, some 20 miles away. Lodging Three Bermudian hotels appear on the Condé Nast Traveler Gold List of the world's best places to stay: the Pink Beach Club & Cottages, whose pastel cottages dot a seaside cliff; The Reefs, with views over a submerged coral ridge; and Waterloo House (173682), where afternoon tea is served in the harborside garden. The 593-room hilltop Fairmont Southampton has the most variety in a single resort. With a private golf course, eight restaurants, exhibitions of local art, and a wealth of treatments at Willow Stream Spa, there's never a shortage of activities at this complex on Bermuda's second highest elevation. Fairmont's other Bermuda property, the Hamilton Princess, has nearly as many options but on a smaller scale, and is conveniently located near the capital's bustle. Nearby, the Royal Palms Hotel is an affordable option in a place where the word affordable rarely applies. A five-minute walk from the city, the 32-room property has immaculate pastel-colored rooms and lush manicured grounds. On Paget's southern shore is the meringue-colored Elbow Beach. Despite its somewhat stuffy lobby, the hillside hotel has a lively pool and beach scene—especially at Mickey's, its casual seaside restaurant. A uniquely Bermudian phenomenon, cottage colonies consist of small villas on landscaped grounds surrounding a main clubhouse with a dining room, lounge, and bar. Cottages tend to have kitchenettes, pool or beach access, and, most important, the promise of luxurious privacy. One example is Paget's Horizons and Cottages. Formerly an 18th-century plantation, it was converted into a colony in 1922 and is one of the oldest such properties on Bermuda. It's also one of the most traditional, with chintz furnishings, a croquet court, and a formal dress code (jackets required in the dining room). Be sure to have dinner at the Ocean Terrace, an outdoor lounge with sprawling views of the South Shore. Dining Bermudian food, like the culture itself, is a unique blend of Caribbean and European influences. The emphasis is on seafood, especially local wahoo. Meals at most resort restaurants are overpriced and underwhelming, so head to Hamilton, where the main drag, Front Street, has dining options ranging from pub simple to jacket-and-tie-required fancy. The Harbourfront serves grilled seafood and excellent dry aged steaks and offers lovely views of the ships in Hamilton Harbour (21 Front St.; 441-295-4207; entrées, $23–$89). Around the corner, sister restaurant Little Venice, a local favorite, has been dishing up inspired Italian cuisine in a sophisticated, unfussy atmosphere for more than three decades (32 Bermudian Rd.; 441-295-3503; entrées, $21–$35). Just off Front Street, Fresco's Restaurant & Wine Bar may be one of Bermuda's most romantic establishments, with vaulted ceilings, distressed stone walls, and candlelit tables. Chef Darren Wiper whips up European favorites such as bouillabaisse and keeps the dishes that feature the best local ingredients simple—as in the catch of the day (often mahi-mahi, rockfish, or wahoo) deboned tableside (2 Chancery Lane; 441-295-5058; entrées, $20–$29). Silk, the island's first Thai restaurant, emphasizes traditional dishes such as coconut soup and marinated duck but also includes Bermudian fare like local fish (55 Front St.; 441-295-0449; entrées, $11–$26). Overlooking the most scenic part of the harbor, Cafe Cairo is one of the island's newest hot spots. Its handcrafted furnishings—copper tabletops, regal wooden chairs, and embroidered tapestries—were imported from Egypt, Lebanon, and Morocco and complement the sumptuous tagines, hearty grilled meats, and flavorful couscous (93 Front St.; 441-295-5155; entrées, $19–$34). A short ferry ride from Hamilton Harbour, the Blű Bar & Grill, a chic, modern room overlooking Great Sound at the Belmont Hills Golf Club, serves Southwest-inspired dishes such as spicy fish chowder, stuffed loin of veal with cilantro and salsa, and ancho-and-coffee-rubbed fish fillet (97 Middle Rd.; 441-232-2323; entrées, $21–$33). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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