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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of the Big Island
Some wacky superlatives apply to Hawaii, the world's youngest, still-growing land. Is Mauna Loa, for example, really the largest object on earth? It could be, although it's not even the tallest volcano on the island—that would be Mauna Kea. Each of these behemoths, when measured from the seafloor (as Hawaiians insist that you do) dwarfs Mount Everest and therefore everything else on the planet. But perhaps the greatest fascination of the island is its spectacular diversity of landscapes and climates—an amazing palette of surf, sand, lava deserts, jungle, rain forest, and even snowfields.
Attractions & Activities Three words to remember on Hawaii's Big Island: four wheel drive. A lot of outstanding sights can't be reached without 4WD because of the harsh volcanic terrain and vertigo-inducing hills—be sure to reserve one in advance. Even with a standard car, though, much of the island is accessible thanks to a substantial highway system that delivers you to many beaches and other points of interest that remain undeveloped and uncrowded. Examples: Just 2.6 miles north of Keahole Airport, little Kekaha Kai State Park has a quiet expanse of sand and a 4.5-mile hike to the top of a cinder cone, with coast views. The state's best beach, Hapuna, just a few miles north, is flanked by two big hotels and a public park. Unlike on the other islands, volcanoes still breathe fire and brimstone on Hawaii. There are different ways to experience all the volcanism, starting with Volcanoes National Park. Helicopters, fixed-wing planes, or good hiking shoes can all facilitate lava-viewing, and each has different qualities to recommend it. But the really big spectacle is the lava flow at Kilauea, a volcano that has been erupting since 1983. A rugged trail leads over the cold lava field that obliterated part of the Chain of Craters Road a few years ago (a few patches of blacktop survive, as well as a few YIELD signs). Serious prep is required to see active lava—the right shoes, sunscreen, water, and a flashlight if you're going at dusk, when the burning lava dramatically meets the cold ocean water. Search "lava" at nps.gov/havo for details. The rival spectacle, on the opposite end of the island, is not volcanic and is almost as hard to get to. Breathtakingly dramatic, with lush vertical slopes, a wide river mouth, and many waterfalls, Waipi'o is the largest of seven valleys that cut into the northeast coast of the island. See it from the Waipi'o Valley Lookout, at the end of Highway 240, or drive or hike down the 25-percent-grade, one-lane road to the serene black-beach base of the valley, where the fast Waipi'o River meets the wild Pacific surf below magnificent green cliffs. To really experience the Big Island's extraordinary variety, though, you need to see snow. Turn mauka (toward the mountain) off Saddle Road to the Onizuka Visitor Information Station, which arranges tours of the massive Mauna Kea Observatory as well as nightly star-gazing. Bring warm clothes—it's positively arctic at 13,700 feet (808-961-2180; ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis). Massive Mauna Kea's slopes are also home to the Parker Ranch, one of the largest spreads in the United States and especially worth a visit if you ride (808-885-731; parkerranch.com). The island is not just about nature, of course, and the capricious weather may not always cooperate with picnic or hiking plans. Downtown Hilo is thoroughly enjoyable, combining a 1960s feel with distinct Asian influences. Before you go, check out downtownhilo.com/hilo/tour.htm, and when you're there, stop at the authentic Japanese garden named for Queen Lili'uokalani, in a 30-acre park off Banyan Drive on Hilo Bay. The Pacific Tsunami Museum is a compendium of photographs and intriguing information such as the fact that tsunamis have killed more people in Hawaii than all other natural disasters combined (808-935-0926; tsunami.org). The Mokupapapa Discovery Center is a worthy stop for those interested in coral reef ecosystems (808-933-8195; hawaiireef.noaa.gov/center). Just about every activity you can name—on land, in the water, or in the air—is cleverly indexed at hawaiiactivities.com, but three are worth special mention: A safe, clean snorkeling site that almost everyone overlooks is Champagne Pond, on the island's easternmost point. An enclosed seaside cove, it's fascinating for the threads of thermals that are actually visible in the 90-degree water. And back on the west side of the island are a pair of spots for anyone who thinks Hawaiian history is nothing but missionaries versus hula dancers. Kealakekua Bay is where Captain Cook landed in 1778 and where he was killed. Divers and kayakers come to the nearly pristine bay to see diverse marine life, including spinner dolphins. To get there from Highway 11, turn makai (toward the sea) down Napo'opo'o Road and go about four miles. Kealakekua Bay will whet your appetite for more history—and the Big Island delivers, four miles south at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, a.k.a. the Place of Refuge. It has been described as the "single most evocative historical site in all the Hawaiian islands," and it is (808-328-2288; nps.gov/puho). If golf's your thing, all 20 courses are listed on the state's official tourism site, gohawaii.com/bigisland/golf. Many of the best belong to the posh resorts on the Kohala Coast. Lodging No fewer than six properties on the Big Island's leeward (west) coast are on Condé Nast Traveler's Gold List, and all have prime beach locations: the Fairmont Orchid, on the Kohala Coast; the Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai; the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel; the Kona Village Resort; the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel; and Mauna Lani Resort. The nine-room Jacaranda Inn, although on the rather busy Kawaihae Road in Waimea, is a quiet stop in the heart of ranch country. Its nineteenth-century plantation house exterior belies the more stately rooms inside, where furnishings range from Victorian to ski-lodge modern. In Hilo, quiet Banyan Drive has a clutch of high-rise hotels, including the Hilo Hawaiian, whose best feature is the balconied rooms facing the wide harbor. For some living history, check out the five-bedroom Shipman House Inn, an 1899 mansion with much of the original furnishings. Dining The best restaurants on the Big Island are often found in the top resorts, which means you'll pay top dollar—always worth it at Pahu i'a in the Four Seasons, Hualalai (808-325-8000; entrées, $28–$58)—but increasingly there are fine alternatives. It must have been a sad day when Chock in Store, a real country general store, closed its doors after a century of operation in Waimea. But chef Daniel Thiebaut wisely preserved the original down-home feel, and his French-Asian kitchen embraces island influences, as does his macadamia nut vinaigrette (65-1259 Kawaihae Rd.; 808-887-2200; entrées, $21–$39). In Hilo, an eclectic interior and an eccentric menu mark Kaikodo. Ensconced in a 100-year-old structure that was originally a bank, Chinese and Japanese antiques commingle freely with an old English bar, under the illumination of Murano glass chandeliers. The fiduciary roots are preserved in the old vault, which is now a rather fine wine cellar. Some of the dishes push creativity to the brink—the kiawe-smoked turkey quesadilla comes to mind—but keep an open palate (60 Keawe St.; 808-961-2558; entrées, $20–$32). For Japanese, the Tsunami Grill & Tempura is the one to beat (250 Keawe St.; 808-961-6789; entrées, $8–$15). In Kailua-Kona, nothing tops tiny O's Bistro, where the culinary influences range from Thailand to Provence. Reservations are a must (75-1027 Henry St.; 808-327-6565; entrées, $10–$25). Bangkok House is best for Thai, especially if you like curries (in King Kamehameha Mall; 808-329-7764; entrées, $9–$16). For Japanese food, Kenichi Pacific has set a new local standard (in Keauhou Shopping Center; 808-322-6400; entrées, $19–$32). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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