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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Fort Lauderdale
Too close to Miami to escape comparison, Fort Lauderdale is often bypassed in favor of South Florida's reigning diva. But the city has come a long way since its 1960s Where the Boys Are spring break heyday. The beach has undergone a major overhaul and is now one of the region's prettiest stretches of sand (and booze-free). World-class fishing and sailing are a perennial draw, and pampered travelers can look forward to the future opening of St. Regis, W, and Trump International hotels—sure to help jump-start the city's next incarnation, as a luxury playground.
Attractions & Activities Fort Lauderdale doesn't have any public transportation to speak of, and cabs are not always readily available. If you're planning to do more than just lie on the beach, rent a car. One other option is the extremely pleasant Water Taxis, which glide along the Intracoastal Waterway and the New River, making stops at a few major hotels as well as the shopping and dining areas. The new hybrid-electric boats have massive windows, allowing for gawking at the palatial waterfront homes (954-467-6677; watertaxi.com). Cruising down oceanfront Atlantic Boulevard is a local pastime. The southern section still has tattoo parlors and dive bars, but the city has taken great pains to clean up the northern edge's two-mile expanse of pristine white sand and sapphire sea. Today, locals jog along the picturesque boardwalk, while aspiring windsurfers take lessons just off shore. There are upscale restaurants and stores clustered around Beach Place, an outdoor shopping center on Atlantic Boulevard. A few blocks away, Las Olas Boulevard is a wide, palm tree-trimmed thoroughfare that connects the beach with downtown Fort Lauderdale. Since it crosses the Intracoastal Waterway, there's plenty of eye candy: sprawling villas with sleek yachts docked out front. Farther inland, it becomes Fort Lauderdale's chicest street, with cute outdoor cafés and boutiques stocking Italian shoes and preppy separates. Anchoring the city's modest Arts and Entertainment District, downtown's Museum of Art, Fort Lauderdale, is a clean, white sculpture of a building. Permanent holdings include works by contemporary artists such as Dalí and Warhol, as well a noteworthy collection of Cuban art (954-525-5500; moafl.org). The Historic Himmarshee Village, also in the district, has some of the hippest bars and nightclubs, and the Fort Lauderdale Village and Museum, a collection of circa-1900 buildings including the old New River Inn, displays local relics and photos (954-463-4431; oldfortlauderdale.org). From here, it's a short walk to the grand Broward Center for the Performing Arts, a two-theater venue showcasing everything from flamenco to musicals (954-522-5334; browardcenter.org). The nearby Museum of Discovery and Science is great for a rainy day. Kids love the 52-foot Gravity Clock (a Rube Goldberg contraption that measures time by dropping balls onto ramps) and the interactive exhibits in Gizmo City (954-467-6637; mods.org). The New River winds through downtown Fort Lauderdale, creating plenty of opportunities for waterfront strolling. Riverwalk Park is a collection of landscaped walkways and shaded seating areas along both the north and south banks of the New River (goriverwalk.com). You can also hop on the Venice of America tour, a one-and-a-half-hour cruise that takes in the best of Fort Lauderdale's river scenery, from sprawling Mediterranean-inspired estates to tricked-out mega-yachts docked outside the International Swimming Hall of Fame (954-463-3220; anticipation.com). Fort Lauderdale takes boating very seriously, and every manner of rental—multimillion-dollar yachts, brightly colored Hobie Cats, and gear-packed fishing boats—is available at the two main marinas: the Bahia Mar, near A1A, and the Pier 66, off the 17th Street causeway. Club Nautico has a well-maintained fleet of 21- to 27-foot motorboats perfect for short fishing or diving trips (954-779-3866; fortlauderdaleboatrentals.com; full-day rentals, from $329). For families, a guided snorkeling trip is a good excursion: Sea Experience has daily cruises out of Bahia Mar (954-467-6000; seaxp.com; half-day snorkeling trip, $30 per person). You can load up on supplies and snacks at the nearby Bahia Mar Market. Tycoons-in-training can host their next party on one of the Aquatic Center of Pier 66's many luxury yachts or hire a top-of-the-line sports fisherman for a day trip (954-523-0033; aquaticcenterofpier66.com; six-guest fishing trips, from $900). Lodging Fort Lauderdale Beach is undergoing a major luxury hotel boom. In 2004, The Atlantic opened across from a plum section of Fort Lauderdale Beach. Its 124 suites have tons of natural light and a relaxed, uncluttered decor. A St. Regis is scheduled to open soon, followed shortly thereafter by a Donald Trump International Hotel & Tower and, in 2008, the 346-room W Hotel. Serious boaters base themselves at one of two large chain properties connected to the major marinas. The Hyatt Regency Pier Sixty-Six is currently undergoing a $25 million makeover that will update the aging decor; the much needed redo is scheduled to be completed sometime in 2007. The Bahia Mar Beach Resort & Yachting Center has spacious, well-maintained guest rooms and access to the waves and sands of Fort Lauderdale Beach, across the street. Set in an up-market residential neighborhood, Lago Mar Resort and Club is a privately owned 1950s hotel that retains its original Old Florida glamour. The sprawling complex includes two pools, tennis courts, and a kid-friendly game room, as well as a 500-foot private beach. The plantation-style Pillars at New River Sound, off a beachfront promenade, has a secluded pool and lovely rooms overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway. Dining There are plenty of beer and burger joints along Atlantic Boulevard, but the best beachfront restaurant is Trina, in The Atlantic. Headed by restaurateurs Don Pintabona and Nick Mautone (formerly of New York City's Tribeca Grill and Gramercy Tavern, respectively), the stylish spot has a breezy Mediterranean decor and bright, flavorful cuisine. While dinner is a swank affair, a breakfast of banana-stuffed French toast on the oceanfront terrace is not—and is hard to beat (601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd.; 954-567-8040; entrées, $21–$42). Las Olas Boulevard is packed with fantastic eating options. The Floridian has been Fort Lauderdale's favorite diner since 1937, with walls decorated with vintage Sunshine State posters and signed head shots of celebrity visitors (1410 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-463-4041; entrées, $5–$15). On the other end of the spectrum, South Florida celeb chef Mark Militello's destination restaurant, Mark's Las Olas, sets the bar high for haute cuisine and haute prices. The menu reads like a gourmet market catalog—Casalingo salami, Hudson Valley foie gras, Kumomoto oysters—and entrées such as the prosciutto-wrapped veal with wild mushroom polenta are utterly decadent (1032 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-463-1000; entrées, $20–$46). One of Las Olas' newest additions is Johnny V, star chef Johnny Vinczencz's first independent venture. Chic red banquettes and backlit mirrors give the restaurant a Manhattan feel, but the menu is "Floribbean"—high-end food that focuses on local seafood punched up with tropical flavors. Try the corn-crusted yellowtail snapper with lemon boniato mash and smoked red pepper relish (625 E. Las Olas Blvd.; 954-761-7920; entrées, $21–$38). After a day on the water, sea dogs head to the Southport Raw Bar. A lively dive worthy of Key West, it serves straightforward fish-shack fare: grilled dolphin, fried shrimp, conch fritters, and raw oysters and clams. Get there before sunset to snag a table on the deck (1536 Cordova Rd.; 954-525-2526; entrées, $7–$10). Historic Himmarshee Village has a handful of perennially packed bars, but it's also becoming a dining destination. Exposed pipes and unfinished tables give Himmarshee Bar & Grille a nonchalant feel, but the ambitious menu is anything but unstudied. Creative New American dishes succeed more often than not—including the Thai-inspired sautéed squid appetizer with its addictive red curry sauce, and the roasted halibut atop a forest of truffle-infused mushrooms, asparagus, and onions (210 S.W. Second St.; 954-524-1818; entrées, $19–$29). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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