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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Honolulu
Oahu, Hawaii's most populous island, has seen it all. This is where Liliuokalani, the islands' last queen, was overthrown and put under house arrest; where America was attacked by the Japanese in World War II; where Elvis and Don Ho sang; where the country found its postwar paradise; and where Lost is filmed. Honolulu is a vibrant city and tourist destination, as celebrated for its sophisticated restaurants and hotels as it is for its superlative beaches, historic neighborhoods, and lush landscapes. It's a place where even the most casual visitor can see the best of the islands, from the big waves on the sleepy North Shore to the slick stores and nightclubs in the heart of Waikiki.
Attractions & Activities Oahu can be roughly divided into two sections: Honolulu, which contains the tourist and business areas of Waikiki, Chinatown, Kahala, and Downtown; and the North Shore, home to some of the island's best surfing and snorkeling beaches, including Waimea, Shark's Cove, and Sunset. Honolulu Hawaii is the only state in which you can visit a royal palace. The islands' brief monarchy began in 1810, when the great warrior Kamehameha united the islands and declared himself king. In 1882, King David Kalakaua—the first sovereign to circumnavigate the globe—built Iolani Palace, a tidy, compact stone edifice on what is now the edge of downtown Honolulu. But the palace is full of ghosts: After Kalakaua's sister, Queen Liliuokalani, was overthrown in a coup, Iolani became her prison, since she was held under house arrest by the businessmen who had orchestrated Hawaii's annexation to the United States. A visit to the palace—which was painstakingly restored some 20 years ago, its koa wood floors polished and its windows hung with Scalamandré replicas of the exuberant drapes that once decorated them—is a poignant experience (808-522-0822; iolanipalace.org). Near Iolani Palace, the Hawaii State Art Museum exhibits rotating displays of works by local artists, including photography, quilts, wood carvings, paintings, etchings, and drawings (808-586-0900; state.hi.us/sfca). The Honolulu Academy of Arts, in a lovely old Spanish-style structure, has an impressive collection of Japanese wood-block prints (bequeathed by the author James Michener) and Asian ceramics as well as an excellent outdoor café. Serious art lovers should head immediately to Chinatown, which abuts downtown. An afternoon can be spent wandering the narrow streets, ducking in and out of the saloon-town storefronts of its mixture of dusty antiques stores, Chinese bakeries, and hip new boutiques. The galleries ARTS at Marks Garage (1159 Nuuanu Ave.; 808-521-2903) and Robyn Buntin (848 S. Beretania St.; 808-523-5913) are particularly noteworthy for their displays of fine Hawaiian and Asian artwork. Chinatown is also where all of Oahu buys leis: A stroll down Maunakea Street, the main artery, is not complete without a stop at its lei shops, whose refrigerators display chilly swags of impossibly fragrant jasmine, orchid, and ginger. And be sure to buy a pound or two of candied papaya from Shung Chong Yuein, a sweetshop whose apothecary-style cabinetry recalls an old-fashioned general store (1027 Maunakea St.; 808-531-1983). Honolulu has several large malls, the best of which include Ala Moana, for everything from Chanel to surfing goods stores such as T&C Surf (1450 Ala Moana Blvd.; 808-955-9517), and Ward Warehouse, a former industrial building turned high-end shopping center, where artful souvenirs from koa wood bowls to glassware (all made by skilled craftspeople) are on offer at the Nohea Gallery (1050 Ala Moana Blvd.; 808-591-8411). Locals love the Waikiki beaches of Sans Souci for swimming and Duke's for surfing; to the southeast, there's Hanauma Bay for snorkeling, Waimanalo for bodyboarding; and Sandy for advanced surfing only; and, on the windward side, Kailua and Lanikai for paddling and swimming. All beaches are public and most have lifeguards. As always, check the surf advisories before heading out, and heed any warnings posted by the lifeguards about strong currents, high waves, or Portuguese man-of-wars. North Shore Visiting the North Shore is like stepping into a Hollywood director's vision of what Hawaii should be. Everywhere you look are colorful, rustic beachfront structures weathered just so, good-looking boys and girls, fields of lizard-green sugarcane and prickly pineapple, and of course the ocean itself, which melts into the horizon, a heartbreaking deep blue. Start your trip to the North Shore in Haleiwa, the area's charming main town. Drive along Kamehameha Highway, stopping to browse the racks of surf-related gear at Patagonia, for limited-edition Hawaii tees (66-250 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-1245); Strong Current, for colorful discount sarongs (66-208 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-3406); and Surf-N-Sea, for everything from board wax to flippy little skirts and tops (62-595 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-9887). Continue on to Waimea Bay; in summer, when the waves are flat, it's the best place to spend an afternoon sunning and swimming. Shark's Cove may not have a hospitable beach—you reach the water by picking your way carefully down a black volcanic rock face—but the reward is in the sea itself, which teems with fish, eels, and even the occasional Hawaiian green turtle. Advanced surfers (and their fans) head to Sunset Beach, where the world's best show off their moves by mastering towering waves. Double back through the Dole Plantation, where you can wander through vast stretches of stubby pineapple plants—no, pineapples don't grow on trees (808-621-8408; dole-plantation.com)—to Hawaii's Plantation Village, a living museum that reminds even the most casual visitor of Hawaii's economic and sociological origins (808-677-0110; hawaiiplantationvillage.org). And end your tour at Pearl Harbor's U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, one of the state's most popular destinations. Lodging Unlike the outer islands, where the hotels tend toward expensive, glossy resorts, Oahu has a diverse collection of places to stay, from the very expensive to the relatively humble. Three of the former rank on Condé Nast Traveler's Gold List of the best hotels in the world: the Halekulani, whose hush and old-world elegance belie its location in the heart of Waikiki; The Kahala, which is in a quiet residential neighborhood and is beloved by American presidents and movie stars; and the J. W. Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa, in Ko Olina, renowned for its excellent and affordable spa. Two mid-range choices in Honolulu are the Sheraton Moana Surfrider and, at the very edge of Waikiki, the W, whose Wonder Lounge attracts a nightly crowd of beautiful people (tourists and locals alike). For many years, the North Shore had just one option—the Turtle Bay Resort. Still a good choice for families, it's frequented not only by guests but by locals, who check in for a weekend retreat away from the gridlock and noise of town. Dining A casual flip through the phone book reveals an improbable number of dining options, from humble lunch wagons to sophisticated French-Asian temples of haute cuisine. In general, it's better to get out of your hotel to eat, the notable exception being the Halekulani resort's French-inflected La Mer, one of the island's best tables (808-923-2311; entrées, $28–$56). Francophiles will also love Chef Mavro, which is consistently named one of the top restaurants in town (1969 S. King St.; 808-944-4714; entrées, $36–$44), and the French-Vietnamese Duc's Bistro, in Chinatown, which serves up seared duck and spring rolls and, about once a month, has a jazz band (1188 Maunakea St.; 808-531-6325; entrées, $15–$33). By all means, don't miss the big three of Pacific Rim cuisine, which combines the best elements of Asian, Hawaiian, and European cooking into an instantly likable amalgam: Sam Choy's Diamond Head Restaurant (449 Kapahulu Ave.; 808-732-8645; entrées, $17–$58), Roy's (6600 Kalanianaole Hwy.; 808-396-7697; entrées, $19–$38), and, best of all, Alan Wong's, where the ginger-crusted onaga (ruby snapper) is nothing short of addictive (1857 S. King St.; 808-949-1758; entrées, $26–$38). Some of Hawaii's best restaurants are also the most modest. Sushi Sasabune looks like a slightly seedy gambling den, but its sushi—flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth tender—is considered some of the best in the United States (1419 S. King St.; 808-947-3800; tasting menu, $60–$90). Excellent, too, is the healthy Chinese fare—not a contradiction in terms after all—at the Little Village Noodle House (1113 Smith St.; 808-545-3008; entrées, $7–$17) and the beef noodle soup at Pho Bac (901 River St.; 808-528-4097; entrées, $6–19). For real Hawaiian food—including, yes, freshly made poi—check out Ono's, near Waikiki (726 Kapahulu Ave.; 808-737-2275; entrées, $4–$15), and the Peoples Café, at the edge of Chinatown (1310 Pali Hwy.; 808-536-5789; entrées, $9–$13). The North Shore has fewer dining options, but they're almost all good. Particularly noteworthy are Kua Aina, serving the best burgers on Oahu (66-160 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-6067; entrées, $4–$7); Waialua Bakery, for cookies (66-200 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-9079); and the local hangout Café Haleiwa (66-460 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-5516; entrées, $6–$11). More upscale options include Haleiwa Joe's (66-011 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-8005; entrées, $15–$35) and Jamesons by the Sea (62-540 Kamehameha Hwy.; 808-637-4336; entrées, $13–$39), although even here you'll still feel the crunch of just-tracked-in sand under your feet. Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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