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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Mazatlán
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Sprawling over 15 miles of Mexico's irregular Pacific coastline, Mazatlán is more subdued than the country's other Pacific Coast resort towns. Despite the brash all-inclusive hotels that line the Golden Zone (the major hotel and tourist area), the city has an unhurried, weatherworn appeal. Except for the spring break season, which attracts swarms of college kids, visitors are mostly families looking for a convenient beach vacation and nomadic surfers on a quest for the perfect wave. Toward the north, "New Mazatlán" hopes to transform itself into a luxury resort area: The first development, Marina Mazatlán, is in the works, with more scheduled in the coming years.
Mazatlán's geography can be a bit confusing. Use the Malecón to orient yourself; although it twists in and out as it follows the seafront, the boulevard extends north to the Golden Zone from Olas Altas, a beach at the southern edge of town that's popular with surfers. Most of the main attractions lie along this strip or directly off of it. The best way to get around is via pulmonía, the city's trademark open, golf cart-like taxis. There's no meter, but the fare is usually pretty reasonable; if you're wary, negotiate the price before you hop on. Traditional cabs (labeled eco-taxis) are also readily available and have metered rates. Attractions and Activities Mazatlán is famous more for its waves than for its beaches. The best-known surfing spots are Olas Altas, Los Pinos, and Playa Bruja. The Mazatlán Surf Center, near the Dairy Queen in the Golden Zone, is the place to go for lessons and board rentals (two-hour lesson, $50; one-day rental, $20). While picturesque, Playa Norte, along the Malecón, doesn't have much room for sunbathing and the surf is better suited to boogie boarding than to idle swimming. For a great view, install yourself at one of the beachfront palapa restaurants that line this stretch; they serve some of the city's freshest seafood mere feet from the waves. Farther north are the beaches of the Golden Zone, which are wider and better maintained, although they're also frequented by vendors hawking crafts and necklaces. At the center of downtown Mazatlán is the Basílica de la Immaculada Concepción, a towering nineteenth-century cathedral with an ornate Baroque-style interior. The adjacent Plaza Revolución sees a constant flow of people—local workers taking a lunch break on the palm-shaded benches, elderly men having their shoes shined, and teens lazily eating ice cream. It also has a large band shell that is the site of free concerts. Around the perimeter of the Mercado Central, a few streets away, vendors sell tacky key chains and sarongs, but inside the covered market are stalls crammed with tropical fruits, aromatic dried herbs, and freshly caught fish. The second-floor food court has bare-bones restaurants serving tasty home-style Mexican dishes. Nearby, Mazatlán Antiguo, or Mazatlán Old Town, is a rambling collection of streets with low buildings painted in festive shades of marigold, crimson, and cobalt. Alleys brim with self-proclaimed "Misc" shops selling convenience basics, joyerías (jewelry stores) displaying silver trinkets, and tiny restaurants with no more than a handful of tables. The Plazuela Machado, a slim tree-lined courtyard bordered by alfresco restaurants, is the de facto center of Mazatlán Antiguo. Don't miss the Teatro Ángela Peralta, on the corner, named for one of Mexico's most famous opera singers. Built in 1869, it was fully renovated in 1987. Tours are available, and there are often concerts (52-669-982-4446; culturamazatlan.com/tap-en.php). Toward Olas Altas, the intimate galleries of the small Museo de Arte de Mazatlán are organized around a light-filled central courtyard. High ceilings with exposed beams reference international rustic chic, but the art is all local: permanent displays of drawings by José Luis Cuevas and innovative mixografía pieces by Rufino Tamayo, plus exhibitions by other contemporary Mexican artists working in a variety of media. In front of the museum is a beautiful patio with cast-iron benches and leafy trees, perfect for a meditative break. Mazatlan Antiguo also has a number of interesting jewelry and crafts shops that go beyond the usual. La Querencia has modern Talavera pottery and cheerful papier-mâché flowers, as well as inexpensive prints of vintage Mexican photographs (1502B Belisario Dominguez; 52-669-981-1036; laquerenciamazatlan.com.mx). For more funky offerings, the artist-owned Casa Etnika, located in a narrow 1865 storefront, stocks all sorts of eclectic crafts, from one-of-a-kind wooden stools to novelty wallets made from recycled candy wrappers (50 Sixto Osuna; 52-669-136-0139). Look for the bright purple and ocher exterior of NidArt Galería, a self-described nido (or nest) of artists, filled with hanging leather masks and tiny clay figurines, plus an entire section of crafts made by the artists' children (45 Libertad; 52-669-981-0002; nidart.com). The El Faro lighthouse, near the city's commercial fishing area in the south, affords spectacular views—if you can make the trek to the top (500 feet above the water). From there you can see Isla de la Piedra, actually a small peninsula—and a popular day-trip destination. Ferries depart about every 20 minutes from a nearby terminal at the edge of Olas Altas; the service has no phone number, but any local can point you in the right direction (round-trip, $1). Small launches that will drop you on the town side of the island leave constantly from the Embarcadero de la Isla de la Piedra, which is farther up the channel; a brief pulmonía ride (50 cents) will take you to the beach, a long expanse of coarse yellow sand backed by rustic palapa restaurants. Most of the restaurants have lounge chairs and shaded tables, which you'll appreciate when the sun reaches its peak. Lodging The majority of the hotels in the Golden Zone are large all-inclusives with multiple swimming pools and plenty of kid-friendly activities. The biggest of the bunch is El Cid Mega Resort comprising four hotels, a 27-hole golf course, and a full-service marina—not to mention a slew of restaurants and entertainment options. Think of it as the traveler's version of one-stop shopping. On the northern outskirts of the Golden Zone, Pueblo Bonito, is a good choice for families: All of its 247 units are outfitted with kitchenettes and dining areas. A step up from many of the other family resorts, it has subtle Mexican decor—warm yellow and gold tones—copious tropical landscaping, and three popular restaurants. For something more intimate, try one of the inns in Old Mazatlán. The best of the bunch is Casa de Leyendas, directly across from the Museo de Arte de Mazatlán. Owners Glenn and Sharon Sorrie moved here from the United States a few years ago and have transformed this two-story hacienda into a gorgeous six-room bed-and-breakfast. Every detail—from the light-filled inner courtyard, with its wrought iron tables and small plunge pool, to the cozy common areas stocked with guidebooks and magazines—has been thoughtfully arranged. Free Internet and even free international phone calls, as well as a tasty breakfast, will make you reconsider returning home. Dining With the country's largest shrimp fleet at their disposal, Mazatlán's restaurants specialize in fresh seafood. The palapa restaurants along Playa Norte offer the most authentic culinary experience. Mariscos Puerto Azul, on an elevated concrete platform, is open on all sides and has a thatched roof. At high tide, the surf practically licks your feet. The waiter will present the day's catch on a platter so you can choose your own, or opt for agua caliente, a tart and spicy seviche made with oversized raw shrimp and lime, cilantro, red onion, and chilies. If you're nervous about the caliente part, ask for it menos picante. Fresh coconuts are hacked open and served to you with a straw (Playa Norte; no phone; entrées, $6-$11). On Isla de Piedra, the palapa restaurants all look the same and all serve frosty drinks and Mexican fare, but at Restaurant Molokay, you can sprawl on comfy lounge chairs while you fill up on guacamole and fish tacos (no phone; entrées, $4-$13). Most Golden Zone restaurants are in the major hotels and tend to be fairly uninspired; there are also a fair number of rowdy sports bar-type restaurants with vaguely Mexican themes and three-for-one drink specials. Better to stick to Mazatlán Antiguo, where serveral stylish restaurants border the Plazuela Machado. Here, the combination of picturesque outdoor café tables and slim lampposts recalls a charming European square. The reigning favorite is Pedro & Lola, named after two famous Mexican singers. A corner restaurant with an inviting indoor dining area with high ceilings and blue and red accents, it also has a small stage for acoustic guitar performances. Although the Mexican menu has been tailored to Western tastes, the dishes are satisfying and crowd-pleasing; try the Pedro & Lola Shrimp, which is spiked with Cointreau. Even if you're not hungry, get a table outside and have a drink while watching the parade of couples and families (corner of Av. Constitución and Carnaval; 669-982-2589; entrées, $8-$13). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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