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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Reno
Before Las Vegas undertook its latest makeover, Reno, 300 miles to the northwest, gave Sin City a run for its money as a place to seek Lady Luck. But while the famous arch above Reno’s main strip still brags “The Biggest Little City in the World,” the luster of its once-bustling casino resorts has worn thin. With its blackjack tables less crowded these days, Nevada’s third-largest city has rediscovered many of the natural features and earned a new moniker, “Gateway to the Sierra.”
Attractions and Activities The best starting point when seeing the best of the new Reno is the Truckee River Whitewater Park, a half-mile stretch of man-made rapids running through Wingfield Park, downtown’s vast urban green space. Although it is only blocks away from the high-rise hotels, this river corridor offers a refreshing break from the neon gaudiness of the nearby casinos. During the hot summer months, sunbathers take advantage of the smooth rocks and calm pools, while experienced kayakers execute freestyle tricks in the rapids. For the less expert, the nearby Truckee River Outpost sells inner tubes for lazy floats down calm stretches (350 W. First St.; 775-324-5937; tubes, $10–$65). Those who want to spend more time on the water can sign up for guided rafting or inflatable kayak trips at Tahoe Whitewater Tours, which arranges half-day tours from various spots along the river that end up right back at Wingfield Park (775-787-5000; gowhitewater.com). Since downtown Reno is relatively flat, a bicycle is a great way to see some of the city’s historic neighborhoods without battling traffic on the main drags. Rent a cruiser bike at Sierra Adventures and pedal the 14-mile Truckee River Trail, which skirts the river, to the neighboring city of Sparks. Alternately, ride around the Newlands neighborhood, west of Arlington Avenue between California Avenue and West Plumb Lane, to see its century-old mansions and charming Craftsman-style bungalows, and get off your wheels to check out California Avenue’s hip boutiques (866-323-8928; wildsierra.com; $19 per day). Culture vultures have their pick of local art institutions and galleries. The Nevada Museum of Art hosts exhibitions of national and international artists and has a permanent collection of pieces ranging from the nineteenth century to the present, with an emphasis on works depicting the outdoors. The museum’s distinctive black structure is just as interesting as what’s inside (775-329-3333; nevadaart.org). From there, a leisurely walk to First Street between Arlington and Virginia takes you to coffeehouses, restaurants, and bars, all displaying local artists’ work. Worth a stop is the Sierra Art Gallery, on the ground floor of the Riverside Artist Lofts, a former hotel converted into artists’ low-cost living/studio space (17 S. Virginia St.; 775-329-2787). Down the street is the yellow-and-gray Stremmel Gallery. A fixture in the Reno gallery scene for over 35 years, it shows an eclectic collection of contemporary works and hosts five or six exhibitions of internationally acclaimed artists annually (1400 S. Virginia St.; 775-786-0558). Of course there are still plenty of casinos willing to take your money. Downtown, the Silver Legacy began as a joint venture from the owners of two of Reno’s most popular gaming establishments, the Eldorado and Circus Circus. Thanks to elevated pedestrian walkways that link the three, visitors can stroll across their 231,000 square feet of casino floors—or eat, drink, and be merry at the 21 restaurants and 17 bars—without ever stepping outside. Beyond the downtown core, the Peppermill and John Ascuaga’s Nugget are local favorites for their loose slots and generous comps. A short drive west on Interstate 80 brings visitors to the small town of Truckee, California, in the heart of the Sierra Nevada. In winter, the world-class skiing here at Squaw Valley USA (530-583-6985; squaw.com), Alpine Meadows (530-583-4232; skialpine.com), and Northstar-at-Tahoe (530-562-1010; northstarattahoe.com) beckons powder hounds, while in summer, the crystal-clear waters of Lake Tahoe, 15 miles to the south, draw boaters, hikers, and mountain bikers to the region. First-time visitors with healthy lungs should explore the Tahoe Rim Trail on foot or by bike for unmatched views of the entire Tahoe basin (tahoerimtrail.org). Sun worshippers flock to Sand Harbor, three miles south of Incline Village on Tahoe’s east shore, where bathers have their choice of lounging on the sandy beach or on one of the smooth boulders featured in many Tahoe postcards (parks.nv.gov/lt.htm). Lodging While casinos are no longer the sole reason to travel to Reno, the hotels attached to them still host the majority of visitors. With so many rooms already available in town, hotel developers have little incentive to build here. Travelers should expect to be under whelmed by in-room amenities—conventional wisdom has it that casinos keep it simple upstairs in hopes that guests will spend time in the casino. The newest and smallest of the gaming properties is the Siena Hotel Spa Casino, whose riverside location and upscale interior make it feel less like a casino than most; its 185 rooms and 29 suites have river or mountain views and quality linens and down comforters. The Silver Legacy Resort Casino has the largest block of rooms (1,720) in the town’s tallest tower (37 stories), giving the somewhat ho-hum accommodations the best view of neon in town. Just south of downtown, the Peppermill Hotel Casino recently renovated its Montego Bay Wing rooms, adding mahogany furnishings, marble and granite bathrooms, and wall-mounted plasma TVs. East of downtown, many of John Ascuaga’s Nugget’s 1,600 rooms, in two 29-story towers, offer views of the Reno skyline framed by the Sierra Nevada. Dining Reno’s restaurants once emphasized large portions and cheap prices, but recently the city has gotten a taste of the exciting fusions of flavors and cultures that other cities have known about for years. It doesn’t hurt that Reno is only a short drive from the fresh, seasonal produce and seafood supplied by California’s farms and fishermen. Reno’s hottest restaurant, the Silver Peak Grill & Taproom on the River, is downtown, right in the midst of all the pedestrian traffic headed to and from the Truckee (135 N. Sierra St.; 775-284-3300; entrées, $7–$16). Chef David Silverman’s updated takes on traditional pub favorites pair perfectly with Brewmaster Trent Schmidt’s selection of specialty beers, all of which are brewed across town at the duo’s original Silver Peak Restaurant & Brewery. Just around the block, the Beaujolais Bistro has brought a taste of joie de vivre to a once-seedy block of West Street. Popular entrées such as braised oxtail in red wine and horseradish, Muscovy duck breast with apples and Calvados, and a hazelnut-crusted venison chop prove that Reno diners were ready for chef Bill Gilbert’s introduction to the subtleties of French cuisine (130 West St.; 775-323-2227; entrées, $18–$37). Reno’s trendy banking and legal crowd literally packs the Cheese Board & Wine Seller during lunch, when the restaurant is open. Worth the wait is the vegetarian sandwich made with shredded carrots, black olives, sunflower seeds, sprouts, tomato, and Monterey Jack cheese. Or get it to go during a tour of the neighboring boutiques (247 California Ave.; 775-323-3115; entrées, $6–$13). Lulou has a bright-red exterior, an ultra-modern interior with an open kitchen, and a menu of creative American dishes. Crafted using the best local produce, entrées range from summer paella with lobster, chorizo, grilled squash, and roasted peppers; to lamb loin with a summer squash mousse; to wild salmon with foie gras and panzanella, a mixture of small pieces of bread, diced tomatoes, and herbs (1470 S. Virginia St.; 775-329-9979; entrées, $17–$38). While newer restaurants have spiced up the town’s food scene, some classic establishments are consistent crowd pleasers. Since Louis and Lorraine Erreguible opened Louis’ Basque Corner in 1967, the couple have been serving hearty Basque favorites such as lamb chops, sweetbreads, and tripe to generations of Nevadans and visitors (301 E. Fourth St.; 775-323-7203; entrées, $12–$23). Harrah’s Steak House, in the basement of the casino of the same name, still serves the best steaks in town, with an ambience and attention to detail that recalls the glory days of Reno’s past. The dark-wood paneling and soft lighting invite long conversations, often about the many celebrities who have dined here (219 N. Center St.; 775-788-2929; entrées, $25–$40). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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