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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Salt Lake City
Spooning the western slope of the Wasatch Mountains, Salt Lake City gives easy access to nature’s finest while packing in some pretty sophisticated urban accoutrements. Visitors can explore historic sites, take in a concert, admire the work of local artists, and tuck into epicurean fare ranging from vegetarian vittles to bison burgers. The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, more commonly known as the Mormon Church, predominates in Salt Lake City politics, media, and culture, which comes as no surprise since the Utah capital is the religious seat for the world’s 12 million Mormons. But despite the city’s attendant sober reputation, young, hip, fun-loving types thrive here. Ask any of the more than 181,000 residents for advice on thespian hot spots, chefs du jour, and hidden hiking trails and ye shall receive.
Attractions & Activities Regardless of whether Salt Lake City’s status as the center of Mormonism is your reason for visiting, the sights associated with the religion serve as a primer on the faith that is so integral here. Start at the Eagle Gate, which spans the intersection of State and South Temple streets and is the latest iteration of a structure originally erected in 1859 at the entrance to the property of Brigham Young, the first governor of Utah and the second president of the Mormon Church. Tour the Beehive House (1854), the residence of Young and subsequent presidents of the church, which is topped with a namesake apiary, the Mormon symbol for industry (67 E. South Temple St.; 801-240-2671). The Lion House, another Young residence, sheltered some of his many wives and offspring (63 E. South Temple St.; 801-363-5466), and the Joseph Smith Memorial Building (1911), originally a hotel, houses a genealogy library and a theater that screens a biographical film about Smith, the founder of the Mormon Church (15 E. South Temple St.; 801-240-1266). Bordered by North Temple, South Temple, and West Temple streets and by church property to the east, Temple Square occupies more than three city blocks and surrounds the Salt Lake Temple, the fourth built and the best-known Mormon house of worship in the world. The temple itself is not open for tours, but two visitors centers present the history and tenets of the Mormon faith in a series of life-size dioramas and other displays. The adjacent Tabernacle usually hosts the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, but until renovations are complete in early 2007, the group will be performing at the nearby Church of Latter-Day Saints Conference Center (801-570-0080; mormontabernaclechoir.org). Across from Temple Square, the Museum of Church History and Art displays artifacts pertaining to Mormon history and doctrine (45 N. West Temple St.; 801-240-4615). The lively arts scene lures locals and visitors downtown. The Salt Lake Art Center shows international, national, and local contemporary works. One recent exhibition, “Te Quiero,” included paintings and drawings by the Abstract Expressionist Robert Motherwell (20 S. West Temple St.; 801-328-4201). A 1913 landmark building, the Beaux Arts Capitol Theatre is home to both Ballet West and the Utah Opera and hosts national touring productions of Broadway hits (50 W. 200 South St.; 801-355-2787). Home to the Utah Symphony, the sleek Abravanel Hall has an acoustically sterling auditorium that’s illuminated by huge brass chandeliers with Bohemian crystals. In the lobby, which has walls of tempered glass and gold leaf, is glass artist Dale Chihuly’s 27-foot-tall Olympic Tower sculpture (123 W. South Temple St.; 801-355-2787). Nearby, the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center comprises three spaces used by local dance and theater companies (138 W. 300 South St.; 801-355-2787). The nonprofit ArtTix has information on upcoming events at all of Salt Lake City’s venues (801-355-2787; arttix.org). The Gallivan Center, a downtown open-air plaza and stage, hosts events like the recent Beach Boys concert and, in winter, becomes an ice-skating rink (239 S. Main St.; thegallivancenter.com). In June, the Utah Arts Festival, a confab of performing and visual artists, takes over downtown (801-322-2428; uaf.org), especially the Salt Lake City Main Library, an architectural prize worth a visit at any time of the year for its rooftop garden’s panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains and desert (801-524-8200; slcpl.lib.ut.us). Lodging On Condé Nast Traveler’s Gold List is the pet-friendly Hotel Monaco, in a former bank. The monolithic 24-story Grand America Hotel, which opened just in time for the 2002 Winter Olympics, includes a lobby with such luxe touches as Murano-glass chandeliers, French cherrywood furnishings, and English wool carpets. Upstairs, the high-tech details in the somewhat staid guest rooms include high-speed Internet access and two 32-inch TVs. It older sister property, the Little America Hotel, has traditionally furnished guest rooms and is set on ten parklike acres. The Marriott City Center is a nondescript business hotel with the road-warrior amenities you’d expect: an in-lobby Starbucks and an indoor pool and swank fitness center for working out aggressions. But the real reasons to stay here are the hard-to-beat downtown location next to the Gallivan Center and the stellar city and mountain views. Dining Salt Lake City used to be known for such staples as Jell-O salad and who-knows-what’s-in-’em casseroles. Today, chefs use the best local ingredients to prepare creative dishes. (If you want a drink, there are a few state regulations to consider: Licensed restaurants serve alcohol from noon to midnight, but customers must order food with the beverage. “Private clubs”—including some restaurants, bars, and music venues—serve wine, beer, and spirits to members only; guests may purchase a temporary membership for about $4.) At the Market Street Grill, choose your favorite fresh fish—including Idaho trout, Alaskan halibut, or Canadian lobster (48 W. Market St.; 801-322-4668; entrées, $12–$36). Salt Lake City mayor Rocky Anderson and other politicos hobnob at the Market Street Oyster Bar, which has the best raw shellfish in the mountain time zone. Those with hearty appetites go for stick-to-your-ribs entrées like the seafood and sausage gumbo, while the après-symphony crowd keep it light with appetizers such as the chilled seafood platter (54 W. Market St.; 801-531-6044; entrées, $17–$40). At Sage’s Café, chef Ian Brandt employs traditional methods—no microwaves, fryers, or heat lamps—to produce organic vegetarian fare. The last Friday of every month is Raw Night, when Brandt uses no heat at all in his preparation. The renovated Victorian home that the restaurant occupies makes a cozy setting for inventive, healthy fare like mushroom Stroganoff over semolina pappardelle (473 E. 300 South St.; 801-322-3790; entrées, $12–$20). The Big Easy meets Salt Lake City at The Bayou, where chef Mark Alston whips up appetizers such as alligator cheesecake (alligator sausage with a pecan crust) along with Cajun classics like blackened catfish, game hen, and jambalaya. The more than 200 microbrews, among them the popular Wasatch Polygamy Porter, have earned the spot the nickname Beervana (645 S. State St.; 801-961-8400; entrées, $11–$17). In a renovated rustic lodge four miles deep into wooded Millcreek Canyon, Log Haven is an old-timer’s favorite, for the bucolic setting—it’s next to a series of waterfalls, and wildflowers blanket the grounds—and the innovative creations that come out of chef Frank Mendoza’s kitchen. Utah buffalo tenderloin, wild Alaskan halibut, and other specialties make the most of local ingredients, and the cellar has some 170 vintages to match the variety on the menu (6451 E. 3800 South St; 801-272-8255; entrées, $15–$36). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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