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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of San Antonio
It's no wonder millions of people flock to San Antonio each year. The city has a lot to recommend it: a friendly local population, a lively, walkable downtown, and plenty of fascinating historical sights (remember "Remember the Alamo"?). And so steeped is the area in its proud Mexican heritage that a trip to this, the United States' ninth-largest city, has an undeniable South-of-the-Border flavor.
Attractions & Activities Regardless of whether you're a history buff, a pilgrimage to the Alamo is a must. Built as Mission San Antonio, the Alamo originally sheltered Spanish monks and their Native American converts, but in 1836, it became a focal point in Texas' war against Mexico. During the infamous Battle of the Alamo, nearly 200 volunteers defended the fortification against thousands of Mexicans for 13 days. Ultimately, the Texans lost their lives, but the rallying cry of "Remember the Alamo" remains. Today, the Daughters of the Republic of Texas manage the four-acre complex, which includes a shrine and two museums. Five Spanish missions were established in San Antonio between 1718 and 1731, of which the Alamo was one. The others are still-active parishes on the south side of town and are contained within the 819-acre San Antonio Missions Historical Park. Its 12-mile biking and walking path, the Mission Trail, follows the San Antonio River and connects the missions of Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan, and Espada. Religious services, sometimes with a mariachi band providing musical accompaniment, are held on Sundays (210-534-8833; nps.gov/saan). The gentle San Antonio River flows through downtown, and the best way to explore it is along the River Walk. A two-and-a-half-mile network of pedestrian pathways weaving through the area and edging the river's leafy banks, the Walk is lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. See it from the water on one of Rio San Antonio Cruises' 35-minute, narrated boat rides (210-244-5700; riosanantonio.com). Re-creating the experience of a Mexican marketplace, Market Square hosts dozens of merchants selling blankets, snacks, handbags, clothing, and arts and crafts. Around the mercado are scores of authentic Latin restaurants, art galleries, and a small farmers' market (514 W. Commerce St.; 210-207-8600). A block away from the kitschy t-shirt and souvenir shops of Alamo Street, El Vaquero is a Western gear store that's the real deal. If you want to leave the Lone Star State with a pair of custom cowboy boots or a ten-gallon hat that fits your noggin perfectly, this is the place (110 Broadway, Suite 110; 210-223-2908). San Antonio has plenty of Old West flavor, and you'll find the largest dose of it at the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum. When the downtown drinking establishment opened in the late 1800s, the owner promised a free drink to anyone who brought him a pair of deer antlers. Since then, the saloon has become a taxidermist's dream, with hundreds of mounted animals from around the world competing for wall and floorspace—a two-headed sheep, a lamb with eight legs, conjoined calves, and even shrunken human heads (210-247-4000; buckhornmuseum.com). If you're looking for a thrill—or are traveling with children who are—there are two amusement parks within 30 minutes of the city center. Six Flags Fiesta Texas has everything you'd expect at a major theme park (actors dressed as cartoon characters, long lines, and steep prices for fast-food fare), but its headliner roller-coasters are regularly updated. One of the newest additions is the Superman Krypton Coaster, 4,000 feet of twists, turns, and loops that are taken at 70 miles an hour. The largest marine park in the world, SeaWorld San Antonio has plenty of dolphins, whales, sea lions, and sharks. It also offers water rides for those who want to get wet themselves and roller-coasters for those who don't. Lodging San Antonio has three Condé Nast Traveler Gold List properties: the Watermark Hotel & Spa, on the River Walk; the nearby Westin Riverwalk; and the Westin La Cantera Resort, minutes from Six Flags Fiesta Texas. Been there, done that travelers opt for the hip Hotel Valencia, on the River Walk. From the waterfall in the lobby to the designer Egyptian linens on the beds, this 213-room property delivers chic. Downtown, the Hilton Palacio del Rio, also on the River Walk and two blocks from the Alamo, recalls an old hacienda, from the Spanish-style mirrors in the guest rooms to the lobby's tiled floors. Downtown, the 13-story Emily Morgan Hotel is named for the woman who helped Texas win the battle of San Jacinto, inspiring the song "The Yellow Rose of Texas." Its Gothic Revival exterior has remained virtually unchanged since it opened in 1926, but the rooms have been updated in sleek lines and warm neutrals, with cosseting details such as feather top-beds. Built near the Alamo in 1859, the Menger Hotel has hosted esteemed guests such as Teddy Roosevelt, Robert E. Lee, Ulysses S. Grant, Mae West, and Babe Ruth and retains touches of its history, most notably in the three-tiered Victorian lobby. Dining If you crave Tex-Mex, you've come to the right place. San Antonio has plenty of fantastic options, with some of the best clustered around Market Square. At Mi Tierra Café and Bakery, mariachi bands will serenade your table for a few bucks. The family-owned restaurant has outstanding service, bright murals, and piñatas that remind you of San Antonio's strong ties to Mexico (218 Produce Row; 210-225-1262; entrées, $8-$18). True to its name, Oro Restaurant & Bar, in the Emily Morgan Hotel, is as good as gold. Dark wood tables and floors complement the camel-color banquettes, giving the space a warm, intimate feel. You're bound to find something to tempt you on the seasonal menu—glazed walnut and banana pancakes at breakfast, buffalo sirloin with a Gorgonzola-rhubarb-peppercress garnish for dinner—and the food will satisfy any would-be cowboy: It's not only beautifully presented, but it fills the plate. Alamo views seal the deal (705 E. Houston St.; 210-225-5100; entrées, $18-$32). For outdoor dining, the River Walk's numerous restaurants can be entered from the street level or, if you're cruising by in a water taxi, from the river. Casa Rio has been serving traditional Mexican food, including affordable, satisfying fajitas and enchiladas, to a loyal following since 1946. Grab a table under one of the festive umbrellas on the patio, where the lovely riverside setting and the potent margaritas will keep you happy long into the night (430 E. Commerce St.; 210-225-6718; entrées, $6-$15). With its Gulf Coast seafood, Texas Angus beef, and Southwest specialties, Boudro's Texas Bistro on the Riverwalk has all the local-specialty bases covered. The first-rate guacamole is made right at your table (421 E. Commerce St.; 210-224-8484; entrées, $15-$36). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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