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Condé Nast Traveler picks
 Best of Vail
In the winter of 1962, a ski resort opened on Vail Mountain, with two chair lifts, a gondola, and $5 lift tickets. This modest development ultimately transformed the little-known peak into a highly trafficked winter sports mecca with enough steeps and deeps, wide cruisers and groomers, to sate skiers of all levels. Now, less than 50 years after its inception, Vail is one of the country's leading ski areas—consistently ranking near the top of Condé Nast Traveler's annual Top 50 Ski Resorts in North America—with two villages linked at its base and plenty of shops, restaurants, and watering holes to keep the après-ski set blissfully satisfied until they hit the slopes the next morning.
Attractions & Activities Taking to the slopes at Vail Mountain means gearing up for more than 5,200 skiable acres of terrain and 34 lifts at one of North America's largest ski resorts. Those in the know head to Vail toward the tail end of the season (which officially wraps up April 23) for slashed lodging rates, slopes with nary a ski bum in sight, and some serious snow. Not surprisingly, the mountain gets particularly crowded in December and around the holidays, so your best bet is to circumvent the ski bunnies on the lower half of the mountain and make your way west to the 3,000-acre Back Bowls and the 645-acre Blue Sky Basin, nestled within the Gore and Sawatch ranges. While these two areas are short on novice terrain, they have tree-laced powder fields, untracked terrain, and naturally formed trails. Vail Village, with its strollable center and more than 175 shops and galleries selling everything from the latest ski gear to Alpine-inspired home goods, recalls a European ski town. Sporting goods stores such as mainstay Christy Sports have the inflated prices you'd expect in a resort area, but they are also likely to carry the latest model of skis you've been coveting or the new pair of sunglasses you've had your eye on (293 Bridge St.; 970-476-2244). Bargain hunters should consider shopping for gear at these mountain shops at the end of the season, when prices are reduced by up to 50 percent. Warm your cold tootsies at Vail Boot & Shoe, where footwear by Ugg, Salomon, and Kenneth Cole will keep you stylishly chic off the slopes (100 E. Meadow Dr.; 970-476-0484). Once you've checked out the latest wear and gear, stop by the Colorado Ski Museum, located above the Vail Transportation Center, for a look at long wooden skis, leather boots, and other memorabilia that pay homage to Colorado's 130-year snow-sport history (231 S. Frontage Rd. E.; 970-476-1876). After the white stuff melts, plenty of outdoor activities will keep you busy well into the summer months. A ride up the Eagle Bahn gondola gives stellar views of the Gore Range and the Mount of the Holy Cross, a crosslike crevice that retains snow longer than its surroundings. Ride the gondola and either hike down on your own past blooming wildflowers or take a guided nature tour to learn about the local flora and fauna (970-496-9090; vail.com; gondola ride, $17 per person). Vail Bike Tech organizes expert half- and full-day guided tours through Vail Pass and Glenwood Canyon, along the Colorado River, and offers daily rentals (800-525-5995; vailbiketech.com; half-day tour, $29 per person). To pedal the more than 340 miles of meandering bike trails in the surrounding Eagle County area, rent from Vail Sports LionsHead (600 Lionshead Pl.; 970-479-0600; rentals, $52 for four hours). Golfers drive the ball farther at 8,150 feet than at lower elevations, which doesn't hurt the golf game. At the Vail Golf Club, a 40-year-old landmark, take in the wildlife, the snowy peaks of the Gore Range, and the lush green valley while you play 18 holes (970-479-2260; vailrec.com). Sharpen your skills at the Red Sky Ranch & Golf Club, located on a mountain plateau. There, two top-notch courses, designed by Greg Norman and Tom Fazio, weave through more than 700 acres of scenic ranchland (970-477-8425; redskyranch.com). The audacious can raft or kayak the wild rapids of the Eagle, Colorado, and Arkansas rivers. Alpine Quest Sports has lessons and guided tours for all skill levels (970-926-3867; alpinekayak.com; half-day, $70 per person). Local outfitter Timberline Tours, with 30 years of expertise, arranges a Gore Canyon Extreme AdventureQuest trip that includes rappelling, zipping down 12-foot drops along challenging white water, and scaling rock faces (two days, $375 per person, with a minimum of six people). Timberline also has the only guided trip that zips through Vail Village on Gore Creek's 4.2 miles of swift-moving water (970-476-1414; timberlinetours.com). Lodging It's only natural that a ski area of this stature should have fine accommodations to suit any traveler's taste. In the heart of Vail Village, the Bavarian-style Sonnenalp Resort of Vail, ranked on Condé Nast Traveler's Gold List of the world's best places to stay, has grand rooms and a pampering European spa with top-notch treatments and skilled aestheticians. The Lodge at Vail, at the base of Vail Mountain, has blond wood, vaulted ceilings, crackling fireplaces, four hot tubs, and a heated outdoor pool and sauna. Smack-dab on Gore Creek, the reasonably priced Vail Cascade Resort & Spa is a ski-in/ski-out property at the mountain's base. The outdoor pools and hot tubs are set against the wooded creek. For larger groups or ski trips that last more than a few days, condos are often more affordable. Within walking distance of the Eagle Bahn gondola, Vail Spa has spacious accommodations that include well-appointed bedrooms, full kitchens, and daily housekeeping service. A complimentary ski storage locker is on the premises, and a twice-daily shuttle makes runs to the grocery store. Dining Chances are that by the time the lifts close at 3:30 P.M., you'll be ready to kick back and indulge in the requisite pub grub. Just north of the Eagle Bahn gondola, in Lionshead, the rollicking crowd at Bart & Yeti's wash down pub vittles such as green chili, fried chicken, and burgers on the roomy outdoor patio, so head indoors to chow down and unwind in the cozy log cabin-style setting (553 E. Lionshead Circle; 970-476-2754; entrées, $13-$18). Disembark from the Vista Bahn and stop by Pepi's, a convivial Austrian joint in Vail Village's chalet-style Grastof Gramshammer hotel. Try the Jaegerschnitzel (veal steak with mushrooms), or feed your inner mountain man trademark wild game such as elk, buffalo, or venison (231 E. Gore Creek Dr.; 970-476-5626; entrées, $31-$50). Come nightfall, as the Sno-Cats groom the slopes, the alcohol flows freely at Ore House, the resort's oldest steak house, located under the clock tower. Dinner here means an easygoing atmosphere, hearty steaks (filet, pepper steak, New York strip, prime rib—it's all here), and a surprisingly good selection of seafood (232 Bridge St.; 970-476-5100; entrées, $19-$45). At the base of the mountain, Los Amigos is a welcome respite from many of the town's carnivore-friendly spots. With generous portions of nachos, tacos, and enchiladas, it's the go-to place for the après-ski crowd, who pack the outdoor patio from 3 P.M. to 6 P.M. (100 Bridge St.; 970-476-5847; entrées, $11-$15). There are several options for sophisticated dining in and around the village. Larkspur, nestled at the base of the nearby Golden Peak ski area, is all about classic American fare and has a lively open kitchen so you can see what's cooking. An elegant weekly menu features such pairings as wild mushroom and black truffle lasagna, and fire-roasted cod with pancetta ravioli (458 Vail Valley Dr.; 970-479-8050; entrées, $29-$39). For dining on Vail Mountain, take the free gondola to Eagle's Nest (which runs from 3 P.M. to 9 P.M. daily) and then hop on a Sno-Cat to reach the cozy Bavarian-style Game Creek Restaurant, which has heavy wood tables and antique skis on the walls. The carefully selected American-French prix-fixe menu features game as well as seafood that's flown in daily. The mixed grill entrée is a trio of buffalo, wild boar, and venison (970-479-4275; prix fixes, $70-$95). Back at the base, Sweet Basil is an area mainstay known for its Asian-inflected cuisine, such as Tasmanian salmon with potato leek ravioli and smoked Scottish salmon beurre blanc, and its award-winning wine list. Save room for the hot, sticky toffee pudding cake topped with whipped cream and rum sauce-it's delightfully sinful (193 E. Gore Creek Dr.; 970-476-0125; entrées, $28-$40). Truth in Travel is the guiding principle for all content published in Condé Nast Traveler. Other travel publications often accept free travel and accommodations. Condé Nast Traveler does not. It is independent of the travel industry. The magazine always pays its way, and, as far as possible, its correspondents travel anonymously. By doing so, they experience the world—both the good and the bad—as other travelers do, and their reports and recommendations are fair, impartial, and authoritative.
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