DFDS Seaways (Sluisplein 33, 1975 AG IJmuiden, PHONE: 0255/534546, www.scansea.com), a leading carrier, makes one overnight crossing from Newcastle, in the United Kingdom, to IJmuiden, in Amsterdam. The trip takes 15 hours.

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (AMS) (PHONE: 0900/0141) is 25 km (15 mi) southeast of the city and has efficient road and rail links.

Flying time to Amsterdam is 10½ hours from Los Angeles; 7 hours from New York; 8 hours from Toronto; 20 hours from Sydney; 21½ hours from Auckland; 1 hour from London; 29 minutes from Rotterdam.

Carriers

Major Carriers

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (PHONE: 300/303-747 in Australia; 020/474-7747 in the Netherlands; 09/302-1452 in New Zealand; 0870/507-4074 in the U.K.; 800/447-4747 for Northwest/KLM sales office in the United States and Canada; www.klm.com). KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, the national carrier of the Netherlands, has the greatest number of nonstop flights.

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300; www.aa.com).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 800/231-0856; www.continental.com).

Delta Air Lines (PHONE: 800/241-4141; www.delta.com).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522; www.unitedairlines.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com).

Smaller Carriers

Dutch Bird (PHONE: 020/605-5800; www.dutchbird.com).

MartinAir Holland (PHONE: 020/601-1767; www.martinair.com).

Transavia Airlines (PHONE: 020/406-0406 in the Netherlands; www.transavia.nl/home).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/722-2111 in the U.K.; 020/346-9559 in the Netherlands; www.britishairways.com).

British Midland (PHONE: 0870/607-0555; www.flybml.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

KLM Shuttle (PHONE: 020/649-5651) operates a shuttle bus service between Schiphol Airport and major city hotels. The trip takes about half an hour and costs EUR7.95 one-way.

By Taxi

There is a taxi stand directly in front of the arrival hall at Schiphol Airport. All taxis are metered, and the fare is approximately EUR32 to central Amsterdam. A service charge is included, but small additional tips are not unwelcome.

By Train

The Schiphol Rail Link (PHONE: 0900/9292) operates between the airport and the city 24 hours a day, with service to the central railway station or to stations in the south of the city. The trip takes about 15 minutes and costs EUR3.

Eurolines (In the Netherlands: Rokin 10, Amsterdam, PHONE: 020/560-8788, www.eurolines.nl/; in England: 4 Cardiff Rd., Luton, Bedfordshire, LU1 1PP England, PHONE: 0870/514-3219 in the U.K.; 845/228-0145 in the U.S.), a network of long-distance coach companies operating throughout Europe, has bus service to Amsterdam from many European cities, including London (10 to 12 hours travel time) and Brussels (about 4 hours). Connections over the English Channel are via ferry.

Well-maintained superhighways and other roads covers the Netherlands, making car travel convenient. Major European highways leading into Amsterdam from the borders are E19 from western Belgium; E25 from eastern Belgium; and E22, E30, and E35 from Germany. Follow the signs for Centrum to reach center city. At rush hour, traffic is dense but not so dense as to become stationary.

The city has excellent rail connections with the rest of Europe. The international Benelex train links Amsterdam and Brussels up to 16 times a day. The high-speed Thalys train has six daily departures for Paris, only 4 hours away, and other destinations in the French Alps and the south of France. High-speed ICE International trains take 2 hours and 30 minutes to get from Amsterdam to Cologne via Utrecht, Arnhem, Oberhausen, Duisburg, and Düsseldorf. There are night trains between Amsterdam and Austria, Germany, Switzerland, and the Czech Republic, and the Car-Sleeper train takes you straight to France and Italy.

To reach London from Amsterdam, you travel first to Brussels Midi station, then change to the hign-speed Eurostar train for the trip through the Chunnel and on to London's Waterloo Station. Alternatively, take the London Express, a direct train connecting Amsterdam with the departing Hook of Holland-Harwich ferry service across the North Sea; on the other side, trains leave Harwich International railway station for London's Liverpool Street Station. For those arriving in Hook of Holland via the ferry from Harwich, the Amsterdam Express makes the tip in reverse.

For information in the Netherlands: NS-Nederlandse Spoorwegen/Dutch Railways (PHONE: 0900/8008, www.ns.nl/).

In the U.K.: British Rail (PHONE: 0845/748-4950).

The city has several substations, but all major Dutch national, as well as European international, trains arrive at and depart from Centraal Station (PHONE: 0900/9292 or 0900/9296). The station also houses the NS/Nederlandse Spoorwagen/Dutch Railways travel information office and its international rail office.

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9:30 to 4 or 5, with some extending their business hours to coordinate with late-night shopping.

The main post office is open weekdays, 9 to 5 or 6, Saturday 10 to 1:30. In every post office you'll also find the Postbank, a money-changing facility, which has the same opening hours.

Bars & Restaurants

As a general guide, bars open at various times during the day and close at 1 AM throughout the week, at 2 or 3 AM on Friday and Saturday. Restaurants are open evenings 5-11, although some kitchens close as early as 9, and many are closed on Sunday and Monday.

Museums & Sights

Churches and cathedrals are open 9-3; parks are open dawn to dusk; hofjes (almshouses) open at discretion of inhabitants. Museum hours vary; to give some Amsterdam instances, the city's famous Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh museum are open 10-5, while the Anne Frank House is open 9-7 and until 9 in summer.

Shops

Most shops are open from noon to 5 on Monday, 9 to 5 Tuesday thorough Saturday. Hairdressers are generally closed Sunday and Monday. In recreation and resort areas most shops are open from early morning till late at night and during weekends. Thursday or Friday is a designated late-night shopping night. Markts (markets) selling fruit, flowers, and other wares run from 10 to 4. Larger settlements have bakeries open seven days a week in addition to small avondwinkels (late-night opening shops) selling food, wine, and toiletries, which are open from afternoon till midnight or later. Supermarkets are open weekdays until 8 or 10 PM and Saturday until 5 or 6 PM.

Arriving in the Netherlands

There are no limits on goods (such as perfume, cigarettes, or alcohol) brought into the Netherlands from another EU country. If entering from a non-EU country, every person 17 and older is allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 100 small cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; 1 liter of alcohol (more than 22%) or 2 liters (less than 22%), 50 grams of perfume and.25 liter cologne, 500 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea, and other goods with a total value of up to EUR57.

There are no restrictions regarding the import or export of currency.

The electrical current in the Netherlands is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Carnegielaan 4, The Hague, PHONE: 070/310-8200).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Sophialaan 7, The Hague, PHONE: 070/311-1600).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (Carnegielaan 10, The Hague, PHONE: 070/346-9324).

United Kingdom

British Consulate General (Koningslaan 4, Amsterdam, PHONE: 020/676-4343).

United States

U.S. Consulate General (Museumplein 19, Amsterdam PHONE: 020/664-5661).

For police, ambulance, and fire, call the toll-free 24-hour switchboard for emergencies by phoning PHONE: 112.

The police maintain a second number (PHONE: 0900/8844) for nonemergency help.

The Central Medical Service (PHONE: 020/592-3434) offers 24-hour medical assistance, including names and hours of pharmacists and dentists.

Referrals for doctors and dentists are available through a 24-hour service for all medical assistance, including names and opening hours of pharmacists and dentists (PHONE: 0900/592-3355 24-hour service).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Academisch Medisch Centrum (Meibergdreef 9, PHONE: 06/9584; Fl per minute).

Onze Lieve Vrouwe Gasthuis (le Oosterparkstraat 279, PHONE: 020/599-9111).

VU Ziekenhuis (De Boelelaan 1117, PHONE: 020/444-4444).

An initiative by the city and the Amsterdam Public Transport Museum (Haarlemmermeerstation, Amstelveenseweg 264, PHONE: 020/423-1100) offers the opportunity to discover not only the historic inner city, but also the harbor and the residential islands of Ijburg, in antique trams, buses, and boats. Call for fees and schedules.

Bicycle Tours

From April through October, guided three-hour bike trips through the central area of the city are available through Yellow Bike (Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, PHONE: 020/620-6940).

Let's Go tours (contact the Amsterdam Tourist Board for further details) takes you out of the city center by train before introducing you to the safer cycling of the surrounding countryside. Its tours include Edam and Volendam, Naarden and Muiden, and, in season, a Tulip Tour.

Boat Tours

The quickest, easiest way to get your bearings in Amsterdam is to take a canal-boat cruise. Trips last from 1 to 1½ hours and cover the harbor as well as the main canal district; a taped or live commentary is available in four languages. There are also dinner and candlelight cruises. Excursion boats leave from piers in various locations in the city every 15 minutes from March to October, and every 30 minutes in winter. Most launches are moored in the inner harbor in front of Centraal Station. Fares are about EUR5.40-EUR7. Operators of canal cruises include:

Holland International (Prins Hendrikkade, opposite Centraal Station, PHONE: 020/622-7788).

Meyers Rondvaarten (Damrak, quays 4-5, PHONE: 020/623-4208).

Rederij D'Amstel (Nicolaas Witsenkade, opposite the Heineken Brewery, PHONE: 020/626-5636).

Rederij Lovers (Prins Hendrikkade 26, opposite Centraal Station, PHONE: 020/530-1090).

Rederij P. Kooij (Rokin, near Spui, PHONE: 020/623-3810).

Rederij Noord/Zuid (Stadhouderskade 25, opposite Parkhotel, PHONE: 020/679-1370).

Rederij Plas (Damrak, quays 1-3, PHONE: 020/624-5406).

Several boat trips to museums are available:

Canalbus (Nieuwe Weteringschans 24, PHONE: 020/623-9886), which makes six stops along two different routes between Centraal Station and the Rijksmuseum, costs EUR12.50, including a ticket for the Rijksmuseum and reductions for other museums.

Museumboot Rederij Lovers (Stationsplein 8, PHONE: 020/530-1090) follows a longer route, making seven stops near 20 different museums. The cost is EUR10 for a day ticket that entitles you to a 50% discount on admission to the museums.

Bus Tours

Afternoon bus tours of the city operate daily. Itineraries vary, and prices range from EUR11.50 to EUR16. However, it must be said that this city of narrow alleys and canals is not best appreciated from the window of a coach. Also, a number of visitors feel unhappy that part of some tours involves a visit to a diamond factory, where they feel pressured into listening to a sales pitch.

A three-hour city tour that includes a drive through the suburbs is offered by Key Tours (Dam 19, PHONE: 020/624-5051).

A 3½-hour tour, focusing on the central city and including a canal-boat cruise, is offered by Lindbergh Excursions (Damrak 26, PHONE: 020/622-2766).

The same bus companies operate scenic trips to attractions outside the city.

Walking Tours

The Amsterdam Tourist Board (VVV) (Spoor 2/Platform 2, Centraal Station; Stationsplein 10; Leidseplein 1, corner Leidsestraat; Schiphol Airport; PHONE: 0900/400-4040; EUR.50 per minute weekdays 9-5) maintains lists of personal guides and guided walking and cycling tours for groups in and around Amsterdam and can advise you on making arrangements. The costs are from EUR94 for a half day to EUR150 for a full day. The tourist office also sells brochures outlining easy-to-follow self-guided theme tours through the central part of the city. Among them are "A Journey of Discovery Through Maritime Amsterdam," "A Walk Through the Jordaan," "Jewish Amsterdam," and "Rembrandt and Amsterdam."

Audio Tours (Oude Spiegelstraat 9, behind Dam Palace, PHONE: 020/421-5580) allows you to wander at your own pace with its two- to three-hour tape-cassette tours (with a map in case you lose track) for EUR6.80 per tour, plus a EUR45 returnable deposit. Three tours are available.

Walking tours focusing on art and architecture are organized by:

Archivisie (Postbus 14603, 1001 LC, PHONE: 020/625-8908).

Artifex (Herengracht 342, 1016 CG, PHONE: 020/620-8112).

Stichting Arttra (Staalstraat 28, 1011 JM, PHONE: 020/625-9303).

For walking tours of the Jewish Quarter, contact Joods Historisch Museum (Jonas Daniel Meyerplein 2-4, Postbus 16737, 1001 RE, PHONE: 020/626-9945).

Drogists (chemists) sell toiletries and nonprescription drugs. For prescription drugs go to an apotheek (pharmacy). While you are traveling in the Netherlands, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta recommends that you observe health precautions similar to those that would apply if you were traveling in the United States.

Bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE, or "mad cow disease") has been detected in Dutch cattle, although the number of cases is extremely low compared to the number in the United Kingdom, Ireland, or several other European countries. This raises questions about the safety of eating beef in the Netherlands, given the evidence of a causal relationship between BSE in cattle and a fatal brain disease in humans called new variant Cruetzfeldt-Jakob disease (nvCJD).

Because the BSE agent has been found in the brain, spinal cord, dorsal root ganglia (nervous tissue located near the backbone), and bone marrow of cattle, the U.S. CDC suggests that travelers to Europe wishing to lower their risk of contracting nvCJD should either avoid eating beef entirely or eat only solid pieces of muscle meat. Burgers and sausages that may possibly contain questionable parts, and dishes such as brains, should not be eaten. Milk and milk products from cows are not believed to pose any risk.

Dutch is the principal language, used across the country; Frisian is an official minority language, spoken in the province of Friesland in northeastern Netherlands. In Amsterdam, as in all the other major cities and towns, English is widely spoken. State schools teach it to pupils as young as eight, and watching English TV provides youngsters with a smattering of authentic-sounding vocabulary before they even begin to learn English at school. Most people are very happy to help English-speaking visitors, to the extent that even if you ask a question in Dutch, they will often answer cheerfully in English. Signs and notices often have duplicate information in English, if not more languages.

For mail destined for outside the local area, use the overige bestemmingen slot in mailboxes. The national postal service's logo is PTT POST (white letters on a red oblong). The Dutch mail system can be slower than you'd expect, so allow about 10 days for mail to and from the United States and Canada and up to a week to and from the United Kingdom.

For postal information within the Netherlands call PHONE: 0800/0417.

Airmail letters (lightweight stationary) to the United States and Canada cost EUR.72 for the first 20 grams and EUR1.26 up to 50 grams. Always stick the blue "priority" sticker on your envelope, or write "priority" in big, clear letters to the side of the address. Postcards cost a universal EUR.50, no matter where they are destined. Letters (for the first 20 grams) to the United Kingdom, as well as to any other EU country, including the Netherlands, also cost EUR.50. You can buy postzegels (stamps) from tobacconists, the post office, the VVV, and souvenir shops.

Correspondence can be addressed to you care of the Dutch post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, followed by "Poste Restante" on the next line, then the address of the main post office in a specific city. You can collect it from the post office in question by showing your passport or photo-bearing ID. American Express also has a general delivery service. There is no charge for card holders, holders of American Express traveler's checks, or for those who booked the vacation with American Express.

Prices in the Netherlands' main cities are considered reasonable in comparison with those in neighboring countries.

Here are some sample prices: admission to the Rijksmuseum is EUR6.80; cheapest seats at the Stadsschouwbourg theater runs EUR6.80; movie ticket, EUR7.60. Going to a Dutch nightclub might set you back EUR6.80-EUR15.75. A daily English-language newspaper is EUR3. An Amsterdam taxi ride (1 1/3 km, or 1½ mi) costs about EUR4.55. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, in Amsterdam, is about EUR56-EUR79; an inexpensive Amsterdam dinner is EUR45-EUR68 for two, and a half-liter carafe of house wine is EUR16. A simple sandwich item on the menu runs to about EUR3.15, a cup of coffee EUR1.50. A Coke is EUR1.60, and a half liter of beer is EUR2.95.

ATMs

The Dutch word for ATM is Pinautomaat; many locals call the machines simply "pin." ATMs are found in airports, train stations, and throughout the city.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the guilder (NLG, Fl, or F), ceased to be legal tender at the end of February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal, and Spain.

Exchanging Money

GWK/Grenswisselkantoren (Centraal Station, PHONE: 020/627-2731) is a nationwide financial organization specializing in foreign currencies, where travelers can exchange cash and traveler's checks, receive cash against major credit cards, and receive Western Union money transfers. Many of the same services are available at banks, and cash can be exchanged at any post office.

The easiest way to get euros is through ATMs; you can find them in airports, train stations, and throughout the city. ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. It's a good idea, however, to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash and traveler's checks as backup. For the best deal when exchanging non-EU currencies (the U.S. dollar, the yen, and the English pound, for example), compare rates at banks (which usually have the most favorable rates) and booths and look for exchange booths that clearly state "no commission." At exchange booths always confirm the rate with the teller before exchanging money.

Taxes

Hotel

The service charge and the 6% VAT (value-added tax), or IVA, are included in the rate. Tourist tax is never included and is 5% extra.

Restaurant

In a restaurant you pay 5% service charge, 6% VAT on food items, and 19% VAT on all beverages, all of which are included in the menu prices.

Value-Added Tax

Value-added tax (VAT or IVA) is 19% on clothes and luxury goods, 6% on basic goods. On most consumer goods, it is already included in the amount on the price tag, so you can't actually see what percentage you're paying.

Tipping

The following guidelines apply in Amsterdam, but the Dutch tip smaller amounts in smaller cities and towns. In restaurants a service charge of about 5% is included in menu prices. Tip 10% extra if you've really enjoyed the meal and you've got good service, and leave the tip as change rather than putting it on your credit card. If you're not satisfied, don't leave anything. A service charge is also included in hotel, taxi, bar, and café bills, but the Dutch mostly round up the change to the nearest two euros for large bills and to the nearest euro for smaller ones. In taxis, round up the fare to 10% extra. Rest room attendants only expect change, or a half a euro, and a cloakroom attendant in an average bar expects half a euro per coat (more in expensive hotels and restaurants).

Entering the Netherlands

Citizens of the U.S., Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, and New Zealand, infants included, need only a valid passport to enter the Netherlands for stays of up to 90 days.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London PassportOffice (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Although Amsterdam has had certain problems with crime and with abuse of legalized prostitution and soft drugs, the serious crime rate is exceptionally low. Having your bike stolen is the worst thing most likely to happen to you. Still, at crowded intersections and in dark alleys, it is always best to be streetwise and take double precautions for your safety; in certain cases, it may be best to keep your money in a money belt and not to flaunt your expensive camera.

The country code for the Netherlands is 31. Amsterdam's area code is 020. When dialing a Dutch number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code. Someone calling from New York, for example, to Amsterdam would dial 011 + 31 + 20 + the seven-digit phone number. From the United Kingdom, dial 00 + 31 + 20 + phone number.

To call Amsterdam from within Amsterdam, dial the seven-digit number. To call Amsterdam from elsewhere in the Netherlands, dial the 020 area coda and then the number. In addition to the standard city codes, three other prefixes are used in the Netherlands: public information numbers beginning with 0800, which are free; public information numbers beginning with 0900, which are charged at premium rates (50¢ a minute or more); and 06 numbers, which indicate mobile phones.

All mobile and hand-line phones in Holland are 10 digits long (some helplines and information centers, like the rail inquiry line, have only 8 digits), with most area codes 3 digits and phone numbers 7 digits long. Note that some smaller towns and villages have a 4-digit area code and a 6-digit local number.

Directory & Operator Information

To reach directory assistance for telephone numbers outside the Netherlands, dial 0900/8418 (calls are charged at EUR1.15 an inquiry). For numbers within the Netherlands, dial 0900/8008 (calls are charged at EUR.90).

To reach an international operator, make a collect call, or dial toll-free to a number outside the Netherlands, dial 0800/0410; to speak to a local operator, or make a collect call within the Netherlands, dial 0800/0101.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Long-Distance Calls

Access Codes

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long-distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 0800/022-9111).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 0800/022-9122).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 0800/022-9119).

Public Phones

There are pay phones at every railway station, either in the ticket hall or on the platforms. There are also clusters of pay phones around pedestrian squares.

To make a call, lift the receiver, wait till you hear a dial tone (a low-pitched constant hum), then insert the appropriate card or coins. Dial the number, and as soon as your correspondent picks up the receiver, you are connected.

Telfort phone booths and public phones, both of which are found in bars and cafés, accept coins from EUR.25 to EUR1.15. Off-peak rates apply weekdays 8-8 and weekends.

Phone cards work only in booths affiliated with the card's company, so Telfort cards only work in orange Telfort booths, and KPN cards can be used only in KPN booths. Phone cards can be bought from VVVs (local tourist information boards), post offices, train stations, newsagents, and tobacconists.

Tourist Offices

In Amsterdam

The Amsterdam Tourist Board (VVV) (Spoor 2/Platform 2, Centraal Station; Stationsplein 10; Leidseplein 1, corner Leidsestraat; Schiphol Airport; PHONE: 0900/400-4040; EUR.50 per minute weekdays 9-5) has several offices around Amsterdam. The office in Centraal Station is open daily 8-8; the one on Stationsplein, opposite Centraal Station, is open daily 9-5; on Leidseplein, daily 9-5; and at Schiphol Airport, daily 7-10.

At Home

In Australia: Dutch Consulate General (Box 261, Bondi Junction, New South Wales 1355, Australia, PHONE: 029/387-6644).

In Canada: Netherlands Board of Tourism (25 Adelaide St. E, Suite 710, Toronto, M5C 1Y2 Ontario, PHONE: 416/363-1577).

In New Zealand: Dutch Consulate General (Box 3816, Auckland 1, New Zealand, PHONE: 09/379-5399).

In the United Kingdom: Netherlands Board of Tourism (Box 30783, London WC2B 6DH, England, PHONE: 0207/539-7950).

In the United States: Netherlands Board of Tourism (355 Lexington Ave., 21st floor, New York, NY 10017, PHONE: 888/464-6552 or 212/370-7360; c/o Northwest Airlines, 11101 Aviation Blvd., Suite 200, Los Angeles, CA 90045, PHONE: 310/348-9339).

The Netherlands is at its best when the temperatures climb and cafés and restaurants spill across sidewalks to lure happy groups to dine on canal boats moored alongside. Unfortunately, because such weather is so transient, you could find yourself sharing your sun-dappled experience with too many others for comfort. From tulip-time onward, museums, galleries, and tourist sights become overwhelmed by visitors, and it becomes increasingly difficult to obtain accommodation reservations. The cultural calendar runs from September through June, but there are often festivals and open-air events scheduled for the summer. However, if you can, try to avoid visiting Amsterdam at the height of summer.

Weather-wise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October. The maritime climate of the Netherlands is very changeable, though, and during these months expect weather ranging from cool to pleasant to wet and windy to hot and surprisingly humid. Winters in Amsterdam can be very cold from December through February and March.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Amsterdam:

January 34-40°F (1-4°C); February 34-41°F (1-5°C); March 38-47°F (3-8°C); April 43-52°F (6-11°C); May 50-61°F (10-16°C); June 56-65°F (13-18°C); July 59-70°F (15-21°C); August 59-68°F (15-20°C); September 56-65°F (13-18°C); October 49-56°F (9-13°C); November 41-47°F (5-8°C); December 36-41°F (2-5°C).

Holidays

Nationale feestdagen (national holidays) include New Year's Day (January 1); Good Friday; Easter Sunday and Monday; Koninginnedag (Queen's Day, April 30); Remembrance Day (May 4), Liberation Day (May 5); Ascension Day; Whitsunday (Pentecost) and Monday; Christmas (December 25 and 26). During these holidays, many shops, restaurants, and museums are closed.

Amsterdam is a small city. Its canal-laced core is surrounded by concentric rings of 15th- to 17th-century canals, built following the pattern of earlier city walls and drainage ditches. Six roads link the city center with the more modern outer neighborhoods. Once you understand the fanlike pattern, you will have an easier time getting around. Most major sites are within the central district. All trams and most buses begin and end their journeys at Centraal Station, sightseeing and shopping are focused at Dam square, and the arts and nightlife are centered in the areas of Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, and Waterlooplein.

In the Netherlands, the house number always comes after the street name on addresses. A straatje is a small street; a steeg is a very small street; a laan is a lane. A weg is a road; baan is another name for a road, not quite a highway, but busier than an average street. A kade is the name given to the street running parallel to a gracht, or canal.

The Dutch have an infinite range of names for bodies of water, from gracht to singel to kanaal (all roughly equating to canal). A singel is similar to a gracht (two terraces facing each other over a canal), but the exact difference between singel and a gracht is hard to define, even for a Dutch person. In fact, the names can be confusing because sometimes there is no water at all -- many grachten have been filled in by developers to make room for houses, roads, and so on.

Bicycling is the most convenient way to see Amsterdam. There are bike lanes on all major streets, bike racks in key locations, and special bike parking indentations in the pavement. You need a passport or other identification to rent a bicycle, and you'll pay from EUR4.50 per day, plus a deposit of EUR23-EUR90 per bike.

Bike rentals are available from:

MacBike (Marnixstraat 220, PHONE: 020/626-6964; Mr. Visserplein 2, PHONE: 020/620-0985).

Take-a-Bike (Stationsplein 12, 1012 AB, PHONE: 020/624-8391), under Centraal Station. The rates are cheaper if you buy a huurfietskaart (bike rental ticket) in combination with a train ticket.

Cycle paths (fietspaden) might easily be mistaken for pedestrian paths. If you see a circular sign, with a bicycle ringed in blue, then only bikes can use the path. If there is also a bromfiets (moped) on the sign, then mopeds can use it. The youngsters riding these paths tend to drive exceptionally fast, so beware of the potential hazards of meandering across a seemingly quiet fietspad.

Never leave your bike unlocked: there is a rapid turnover of stolen bikes no matter what quality or condition. Use a "D" lock, which can't be cut with the average thieves' tools, and lock your bike's frame to something that can't be shifted, like a railing.

As a cyclist, you'll notice that most fellow cyclers don't really observe the traffic signs and rules, nor do they stay in the bicycle lanes marked out for them, unless the road has particularly heavy traffic. However, as a result of accidents caused by aggressive cyclists, fines and other penalties are being rigorously imposed (you can also be fined for riding at night with no lights and for drunken cycling). Cars that are turning across your path are supposed to stop for you, but it is wise to watch out. Maps and route guides are available from the VVV (tourist information offices) representing the area you plan to explore, although bicycle tracks between towns are so well signposted that you do not have to rely on a map.

Car Rentals

Renting a car is a good idea for exploring the center, north, or eastern part of the country, but to be avoided in the heavily urbanized northwest, known as the Randstad, where the public transport infrastructure is excellent.

The major car rental auto-verhuur firms have convenient booths at Schiphol Airport, but the airport charges rental companies a fee that is passed on to customers, so you'll get a better deal at downtown locations.

Rates in Amsterdam vary from company to company; daily rates start at approximately $50 for a one-day rental, $140 for a three-day rental, and $190 for a week's rental. This does not include collision insurance, airport fee, or 19% VAT tax. Weekly rates often include unlimited mileage. As standard, cars in Europe are stick shift. An automatic transmission will cost a little extra. Major car-rental companies have boxy Renault cars and Peugeots in various sizes that are always in good condition.

Local Agencies

Avis (Nassaukade 380, PHONE: 020/683-6061).

Budget (Overtoom 121, PHONE: 020/612-6066).

Hertz (Overtoom 333, PHONE: 020/612-2441).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Requirements

Your own driver's license is acceptable, but having an International Driver's Permit (IDP), available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club, is a good idea. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

Gasoline

Gas stations are generally open Monday-Saturday 6 or 7 AM-10 or noon. All stations have self-service pumps. Gas stations on the motorways are open 24 hours. Unleaded four-star costs about EUR1.30 per liter.

Parking

Parking space is at premium in Amsterdam. It is a good idea (if not the only option) to leave your car only in designated parking areas. Parkeren (parking lots) are indicated by a white P in a blue square. Illegally parked cars are clamped and, after 24 hours, if you haven't paid for the clamp to be removed, towed. If you get clamped, a sticker on the windshield indicates where you should go to pay the fine (from EUR63).

Road Conditions

A network of well-maintained super highways and secondary roads makes car travel convenient, but traffic is exceptionally heavy around the bigger cities, especially on the roads in the Randstad.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right, and regulations are largely as in Britain and the United States. Speed limits are 120 kph (74 mph) on superhighways, 100 kph (60 mph) on urban area highways, and 50 kph (30 mph) on suburban roads.

For safe driving, go with the flow, stay in the slow lane unless you want to pass, and make way for faster cars wanting to pass you. In cities and towns, approach crossings with care; local drivers may exercise the principle of priority for traffic from the right with some abandon. Although the majority of cyclists observe the stop lights and general road signs, many do not aggressively expect you, even as a driver, to give way. The latest ruling states that unless otherwise marked, all traffic coming from the right has priority, even bicycles.

Fines for driving after drinking are heavy, including the suspension of license and the additional possibility of six months' imprisonment.

Many tram and bus routes start from the hub at Centraal Station (Stationsplein, PHONE: 0900-9292 public transport information).

The transit map published by GVB (Gemeentelijk Vervoer Bedrijf/City Transport Company; Prins Hendrikkade 108-114, PHONE: 0900/9292) is very useful. It's available at the GVB ticket office across from the Centraal Station or at the VVV tourist information offices next door. It is also reprinted as the center spread in Day by Day, What's On in Amsterdam, the monthly guide to activities and shopping published by the tourist office. The map shows the locations of all major museums, monuments, theaters, and markets, and it tells you which trams or buses to take to reach them.

Trams and buses run from about 6 AM to midnight daily. The tram routes, with a network of 130 km (80 mi) of track, make this characteristic form of transport more useful than the bus for most tourists. Night owls can make use of the hourly night-bus services, with double frequency on Friday and Saturday night, but routes are restricted. All public transport is smoke-free.

Single-ride tickets valid for one hour can be purchased from tram and bus drivers for EUR1.50, but it is far more practical to buy a strippenkaart (strip ticket) that includes from 2 to 45 "strips," or ticket units. The best buy for most visitors is the 15-strip ticket for EUR5. A new service for visitors is the Circle Tram 20, which travels both ways around a loop that passes close to most of the main sights and offers a hop-on, hop-off ticket for one to three days.

By tradition, Dutch trams and buses work on the honor system: upon boarding, punch your ticket at one of the machines situated in the rear or center section of the car. The city is divided into zones, which are indicated on the transit map, and it is important to punch the correct number of zones on your ticket (one for the basic tariff and one for each zone traveled). Occasional ticket inspections can be expected: a fine of EUR27 is the price for "forgetting" to stamp your ticket.

Taxi stands are at the major squares and in front of the large hotels. You can also call the two central taxi dispatching offices:

Taxicentrale (PHONE: 0900/677-7777.

Taxi Direkt (PHONE: 0900-0724).

Fares are EUR2.50, plus EUR1.25 per kilometer (half mile). A 5-km (3-mi) ride will cost about EUR9.

Water Taxis (PHONE: 020/530-1090) provide a novel, if pricey, means of getting about. They can be hailed anytime you see one cruising the canals of the city, or called by telephone. The boats are miniature versions of the large sightseeing canal boats, and each carries up to eight passengers. The cost is EUR41 for a half hour, including pick-up charge, with a charge of EUR14 per 15-minute period thereafter. The rate is per ride, regardless of the number of passengers.