Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are conveniently close to the modern city center. You can easily stroll from the Acropolis to the other sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. The layout of central Athens is simple: Three parallel streets -- Stadiou, Eleftheriou Venizelou (familiarly known as Panepistimiou), and Akadimias -- link two main squares, Syntagma (Constitution) and Omonia (Concord). The Acropolis and Filopappou (two craggy hills sitting side by side), the Ancient Agora marketplace, and Kerameikos (the first cemetery) form the core of ancient Athens.

The city's Asian character after the 400-year Ottoman rule is still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the Acropolis. Climbing up the Acropolis slopes is the Plaka quarter, whose tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions and tavernas suggest the city's gracious 19th-century's lifestyle. The area around the tourist hub of Syntagma Square and the commercial district of Omonia Square, is distinctly European. The most modern neighborhood downtown, chic Kolonaki, is nestled at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus. Each of Athens's outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: In the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, and in the south is down-to-earth Piraeus, with its bustling harbors and Saronic Gulf views.

Many of the sights you'll want to see are within a fairly small central area and easily explored on foot. The price of public transportation has risen steeply in recent years, but it is still less than most other Western European capitals. However, riding the buses, trolleys, or the lone subway line during rush hours is definitely not recommended, nor is driving in Athens unless you have nerves of steel.