Athens's new international airport, Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH) (PHONE: 01/369-8300) is 27 km (17 mi) northeast of Athens. It replaced the old Ellinikon Airport in March 2001.

Some sample flying times are: from New York (10 hours), London (4 hours).

Carriers

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141).

Olympic Airways (PHONE: 800/223-1226).

European national airlines that fly to Athens from the United States and Canada via cities in their home countries include the following:

Air France (PHONE: 800/237-2747).

Alitalia (PHONE: 800/223-5730).

Austrian Airlines (PHONE: 800/843-0002).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/247-9297).

Finnair (PHONE: 800/950-5000).

Iberia Airlines (PHONE: 800/772-4642).

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (PHONE: 800/777-5553).

LOT Polish Airlines (PHONE: 212/869-1074).

Lufthansa (PHONE: 800/645-3880).

Sabena Belgian World Airlines (PHONE: 800/955-2000).

Swissair (PHONE: 800/221-4750).

TAP Air Portugal (PHONE: 800/221-7370).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 800/862-8621).

Remember that these are connecting flights that include at least one stop and may require a change of planes.

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0181/897-4000; 0345/222-111 outside London).

Easy Jet (PHONE: 01582/702900 or 0044/870-600000).

Olympic Airways (PHONE: 0171/409-3400).

Domestic Airlines

Olympic Airways (main Athens ticket office at Fillelinon 15, near Syntagma Sq., PHONE: 01/966-6666 for reservations; 01/936-3363 through 01/936-3366 for daily arrival and departure information, FAX: 01/966-6111). Another convenient branch is in the Athens Hilton (Vasilissis Sofias 46, PHONE: 01/926-7445).

Aegean Air (Vouliagmenis 572, Argiroupoulis, Athens, PHONE: 01/998-8300 for reservations, FAX: 01/995-7598).

Cronus Airlines (Othonos 10, Syntagma Sq., Athens, PHONE: 01/994-4444 for reservations, FAX: 01/331-5505).

Hellenic Star Airways (Vouliagmenis 2, Athens, PHONE: 01/961-1881, FAX: 01/965-0373).

LTU International Airways (Nikodimou 2, Athens, PHONE: 01/323-0541 through 01/323-0542, FAX: 01/323-2952).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Airport express buses (Nos. E94, E95, and E96) connect the airport and the city. The E94 connects the airport with the Ethniki Amina Metro Station, where passengers can transfer to the Athens metro; the bus runs from the airport from 6:40 AM to 11:20 PM daily, departing every 15 to 30 minutes depending on the time of day. The E95 connects the airport and the Ethniki Amina Metro Station, but also goes on to Syntagma Square; it operates 24 hours a day, with departures every 15 to 35 minutes depending on the time of day. The E96, also in operation around the clock, connects the airport and Karaiskaki Square in Piraeus (departures every 20 to 40 minutes). Tickets cost EUR2.93 and are valid for 24 hours (after validation) on all public transport (buses, trolley-buses, and the metro). They can be bought from airport-bus drivers, at metro stations, and at the Athens Public Transport ticket kiosks.

Travel by bus is inexpensive, usually comfortable, and relatively fast. The journey from Athens to Thessaloniki takes roughly the same time as the train, though the IC express covers the distance 1¼ hours faster. To reach the Peloponnese, however, buses are speedier than trains. Information and timetables are available at tourist information offices. Make reservations at least one day before your planned trip, earlier for holiday weekends.

Bus Terminal A (at Kifissou 100, PHONE: 01/512-4910) is the arrival and departure point for bus lines that serve parts of northern Greece, including Thessaloniki, and the Peloponnese destinations of Epidaurus, Mycenae, Nafplion, Olympia, and Corinth. Each has its own phone number; Greek National Tourist Organization (GNTO or EOT) offices distribute a list.

Bus Terminal B (Liossion 260, PHONE: you must call each region's ticket counter for information: Delphi 01/831-7096; Livadia [Ossios Loukas via Distomo] 01/831-7173; Trikala [Meteora] 01/831-1431) serves Evia, most of Thrace, and central Greece, including Delphi. EOT provides a phone list. Tickets for these buses are sold only at this terminal, so you should call to book seats well in advance during high season or holidays.

From Terminal A, take Bus 051 to reach Omonia Square; from Terminal B, take Bus 024 to go downtown. To get to the stations, catch Bus 051 at Zinonos and Menandrou off Omonia Square (for Terminal A) and Bus 024 on Amalias in front of the National Garden (for Terminal B). International buses drop their passengers off on the street, usually in the Omonia or Syntagma Square areas or at Stathmos Peloponnisos (train station).

The main highways going north and south link up in Athens and both are called Ethniki Odos (the National Road). At the city limits, signs in English clearly mark the way to both Syntagma Square and Omonia Square in the town center. Leaving Athens, routes to the National Road are well marked; signs usually name Lamia for points north and Corinth or Patras for points southwest. On the road map distributed by the EOT, the National Roads are yellow and are marked by European road numbers, although these are not used on the roads themselves.

Beware: the highways are very slick when wet, and there are many fatal accidents. Avoid driving in rain and on days preceding or following major holidays; Greece's car-accident rate, one of the highest in the European Union, escalates wildly during the mass migrations to and from the city. The speed limit is 120 kph (74 mph) on the National Road (but watch for temporary speed signs where the highway is under repair), 90 kph (54 mph) outside urban areas, and 50 kph (31 mph) in town. The distance from Athens to Thessaloniki is 515 km (309 mi); to Kalamata, 257 km (154 mi); to Corinth, 84 km (50 mi); to Lamia, 214 km (128 mi); to Patras, 218 km (131 mi); to Igoumenitsa, 472 km (283 mi).

Cruise ships and ferries to and from the Aegean islands dock at Piraeus (Port Authority, Akti Miaouli, tel. 01/451-1311 through 01/451-1319), the main port, 10 km (6 mi) southwest of Athens. Ships for the Ionian islands sail from ports nearer to them, such as Patras and Igoumenitsa. Connections from Piraeus to the main island groups are good, connections from main islands to smaller ones within a group less so, and services between islands of different groups or areas -- such as Rhodes and Crete -- are less frequent. Travel agents and ship offices in Athens and Piraeus have details. EOT distributes boat schedules updated every Wednesday; you can also call (tel. 143) for recorded departure times, in Greek. Timetables change very frequently, and boats may be delayed by weather conditions, so your plans should be flexible. Buy your tickets two or three days in advance, especially if you are traveling in summer or taking a car. Reserve your return journey or continuation soon after you arrive.

From Piraeus, the quickest way to get into town center, if you are traveling light, is to walk to the metro station and take an electric train to Omonia Square (EUR.44) or Syntagma Square (EUR.73, change at Omonia to the line going to Ethniki Aminas), a trip of about 25-30 minutes. Those arriving by hydrofoil at the smaller Zea Marina Harbor should take Bus 905 or Trolley 20 (EUR.35) to the Piraeus metro station. Alternatively, you can take a taxi (if you find one), which may take longer owing to traffic and will cost around EUR5.88. Taxi drivers often wait until they fill their taxi with people debarking and headed in the same direction. It's faster to walk to the main street and hail a passing cab.

The other main port is Rafina (Port, Port Authority, tel. 0294/22300), on the eastern coast of Attica, where boats to and from Evia and some of the closer Cyclades dock. KTEL buses (tel. 01/821-0872) make the trip to Athens every half hour from about 5:30 AM to 9:30 PM; they leave from the station slightly up the hill from the port, and the fare is EUR1.47. The trip takes about one hour.

Greek trains are slow and their network is limited. The main line runs north from Athens, dividing into three lines at Thessaloniki. The main line continues on to Skopje and Belgrade, a second line goes east to the Turkish border and Istanbul, and a third line heads northeast to Sofia, Bucharest, and Budapest. The Peloponnese in the south is served by a narrow-gauge line dividing at Corinth into the Tripolis-Kalamata route and Patras-Kalamata.

The Greek Railway Organization (OSE) has two stations in Athens, side by side off Diliyianni street not far from Omonia. International trains and trains from the north arrive at, and depart from, Stathmos Larissis (PHONE: 01/529-8837). Take Trolley 1 from the terminal to Omonia Square, or the metro to Omonia and Syntagma squares. Trains from the Peloponnese use the ornate Stathmos Peloponnisou (PHONE: 01/529-8735) next door (ornate is right -- the café continues the station's striking art-nouveau motif, from its burgundy ceiling with ornate moldings and antique crystal-teardrop chandelier to its original bronze gas lamps). To Omonia and Syntagma squares take Bus 057 or the metro.

Because the station phones are inevitably busy and the clerks harried, it's best to call the general information switchboard for timetables and prices (PHONE: 01/529-7777); it's open daily 7 AM-9 PM. You may also call 145 for a recorded departure timetable, in Greek, of trains within Greece, or 147 for information on trains to Europe.

OSE buses (Greek Railway Organization; PHONE: 01/513-5768 or 01/513-5769) serving Albania, Bulgaria, and Turkey also use the Stathmos Peloponnisou station. To Omonia and Syntagma squares, take Bus 057.

The IC express service from the north is fast and reliable (Thessaloniki-Athens takes six hours). Express service has also begun on the Athens-Patras line (about four hours). On any train, it is best to travel first class, with a reserved seat, as the difference between the first-class and tourist coaches can be vast: without a seat reservation you could end up standing or crouched among the baggage.

For those already in downtown Athens who want to buy tickets ahead of time, it's easier to visit a railway office (Karolou 1, near Omonia Sq., PHONE: 01/529-7006 or 01/529-7007; other locations: Sina 6, PHONE: 01/529-8910; Filellinon 17, near Syntagma Sq., PHONE: 01/323-6747, Mon.-Sat. 8-2).

Banks & Stores

Banks are normally open Monday-Thursday 8-2, Fridays 8-1:30. In Athens a central branch of the National Bank of Greece has extended hours for foreign exchange (Karageorgi Servias 2, Syntagma Sq., PHONE: 01/334-0011), open Monday through Thursday 8-2 and 3:30-6:30, Friday 3-6:30, Saturday 9-3, and Sunday 9-1. Hotels also cash traveler's checks on weekends, and the banks at both airport terminals have longer hours; some at the East Terminal are open all night. Most banks now have ATMs that accept cards on the Plus or Cirrus system.

Government offices are open from 8 to 2. For commercial offices, it depends on the business: a large advertising agency in Piraeus might be open 10-6, while a printing service in Exarchia might operate 11-2.

Museums & Sights

The days and hours for museums and sites vary; they are usually open daily 8:30 to 3 except one weekday (usually Monday), although in summer, depending on personnel available that year, the hours are extended to as late as 7 PM; throughout the year arrive at least 30 minutes before closing time to ensure a ticket. Winter hours apply from about November through mid-April. Archaeological sites and museums remain closed on January 1, March 25, the morning of Orthodox Good Friday, Orthodox Easter, May 1, and December 25-26. Sunday visiting hours apply to museums on: Epiphany; Ash Monday, Good Saturday, Easter Monday, and Pentecost (Orthodox dates, which change every year); August 15; and October 28. Museums close early (around 12:30) on January 2, the last Saturday of Carnival, Orthodox Good Thursday, Christmas Eve, and New Year's Eve. Admission to most museums and archaeological sites is free on Sunday from November through March. Entrance is usually free every day for EU students, half off for students from other countries, and about a third off for senior citizens.

Athens

The average high and low temperatures for Athens are as follows: Jan.-April, 43-68°F (6-20°C); May-Sept., 61-91°F (16-33°C); Oct.-Dec., 46-75°F (8-24°C).

Holidays

January 1 (New Year's Day); January 6 (Epiphany); Clean Monday (Ash Monday/first day of Lent, or 41 days before Easter); March 25 (Feast of the Annunciation and Independence Day); Good Friday; Easter Sunday; Easter Monday; May 1 (Labor Day); Pentecost (50 days after Easter); August 15 (Assumption of the Holy Virgin); October 28 (Ochi Day); December 25-26 (Christmas Day and Boxing Day). Note: Greek Orthodox Easter occurs on May 5 in 2002.

Only on Greek Orthodox Easter and August 15 do you find that practically everything shuts down. You will have a harder time getting a room at the last minute on Easter and August 15 (especially the latter), and traveling requires stamina and downright pushiness, if you want to survive on the ferries and the highways. On the other hand, the local rituals and rites associated with these two celebrations are interesting and occasionally moving (the Epitafion procession on Good Friday), allowing you a glimpse into customs that date to pagan times.

Arriving in Athens

Passing through Greek customs is usually a painless procedure and certainly takes less time than retrieving your luggage. EU citizens can just walk through, and even non-EU citizens arriving from a European city should quickly pass down the green lane. Look like a tourist and you won't have a problem. But if you have flown direct from the U.S. or Australia and are carting many shiny new suitcases and lots of boxes that look like you've brought appliances for the relatives (whether they exist or not), you will be pulled over. In that case, it's better to politely bear the ordeal, which might just entail the opening of one bag. You are also more likely to be stopped if you're coming from a country that exports drugs.

You may bring into Greece duty-free: food and beverages up to 22 pounds (10 kilos); 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, or 50 cigars; one liter of alcoholic spirits or two liters of wine; and gift articles up to a total of EUR150. For non-EU citizens, foreign bank notes amounting to more than $2,500 must be declared for reexport, but there are no restrictions on traveler's checks.

Only one per person of such expensive portable items as cameras, camcorders, computers, and the like is permitted into Greece. You should register these with Greek Customs upon arrival to avoid any problems when taking them out of the country again. Sports equipment, such as bicycles and skis, is also limited to one (pair) per person.

To bring in a dog or a cat, you need a health certificate issued by a veterinary authority and validated by the Greek consulate and the appropriate medical authority (in the U.S., the Department of Agriculture). It must state that your pet doesn't carry any infectious diseases and that it received a rabies inoculation not more than 12 months (for cats, six months) and no fewer than six days before arrival. Dogs must also have a veterinary certificate that indicates they have been wormed against echinococcus. For more information on Greek customs, check with your local Greek consulate.

The electrical current in Greece is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and adapter.

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter, though remember that many outlets don't have surge protection.

Australia

Australia (D. Soutsou 37, Athens, PHONE: 01/645-0404).

Canada

Canada (Gennadiou 4, Athens, PHONE: 01/727-3400).

New Zealand

New Zealand (consulate; Kifissias 268, Halandri, Athens, PHONE: 01/687-4700 or 01/687-4701).

United Kingdom

United Kingdom (Ploutarchou 1, Athens, PHONE: 01/723-6211 through 01/723-6219; 01/727-2600).

United States

United States (Vasilissis Sofias 91, Athens, PHONE: 01/721-2951 through 01/721-2959).

Contacts

Police (PHONE: 100).

National Ambulance Service (EKAV, PHONE: 166) (a taxi is often faster).

Fire (PHONE: 199).

Forest Service (in case of fire PHONE: 191).

Coast Guard (PHONE: 108).

Center for Battered Women in Athens (PHONE: 01/523-5250 and 01/523-5318).

The Tourist Police (Dimitrakopoulou 77, Koukaki, Athens, PHONE: 171 in Athens; 01/171 from outside Athens) -- or contact the local tourist police in other regions -- can provide general information, help in emergencies, and mediate in disputes.

Poison Center

Poison center (PHONE: 01/779-3777).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Not all hospitals are open nightly. Call tel. 106 (in Greek), check the Athens News or the English-language Kathemerini, or ask your hotel to check the Greek papers to find out which emergency hospitals are open.

Asklepion Hospital (Vasileos Pavlou 1, Voula, PHONE: 01/895-8301 through 01/895-8306); KAT Hospital (Nikis 2, Kifissia, PHONE: 01/801-4411; 166 for accidents); Ygeia (Er. Stavrou 4 and Kifissias, Maroussi, PHONE: 01/682-7940 through 01/682-7949).

One maternity hospital is Mitera (Er. Stavrou 6 and Kifissias, Maroussi, PHONE: 01/686-9000).

Children go to Aglaia Kyriakou Hospital (Levadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi, PHONE: 01/777-5611 through 01/777-5619) or Ayia Sofia Hospital (Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi, PHONE: 01/777-1811 through 01/777-1816). Note that children's hospitals answer the phone with "Pedon" and not the specific name of the institution.

Greeks are friendly and openly affectionate. It is not uncommon, for example, to see women strolling arm in arm, or men kissing and hugging each other. Displays of anger are also quite common. You may see a man at a traffic light get out to verbally harangue an offending driver behind him, or a customer berating a civil servant and vice versa, but these encounters rarely become physical. To the person who doesn't understand Greek, the loud, intense conversations may all sound angry -- but they're not. When you meet someone for the first time, it is customary to shake hands, but with acquaintances, the usual is a two-cheek kiss hello and goodbye.

Greeks tend to stand closer to people than North Americans and Northern Europeans, and they rely on gestures more when communicating. One gesture you should never use is the open palm, fingers slightly spread, shoved toward someone's face. The moutza is a serious insult. Another gesture you should remember, especially if trying to catch a taxi, is the "no" looks like "yes": a slight or exaggerated (depending on the sentiment) tipping back of the head, sometimes with the eyes closed and eyebrows raised. When you wave with your palm towards people, they may interpret it as "come here" instead of "goodbye"; and, Greeks often wave goodbye with the palm facing them, which looks like "come here" to English speakers.

In some areas it still doesn't do to overcompliment a baby or a child, thought to provoke others' jealousy and thus bring on the evil eye. You will often see Greeks mock spitting, saying "ftou-ftou-ftou" to ward off harm, as an American might knock on wood after a threatening thought. (At baptisms, the godparent mock spits three times to discourage Satan.) Although a woman who makes long eye contact with a man is interpreted as being interested in romance, in most cases, Greeks openly stare at anything that interests them, so don't be offended if you are the center of attention wherever you go.

When visiting a house for dinner, you can take a small gift for the children -- a foreign T-shirt, for example -- or a box of pastries from the sweetshop. Greeks often eat out of communal serving plates, so it's considered normal in informal settings to spear your tomato out of the salad bowl, rather than securing an individual portion. Sometimes in tavernas you don't even get your own plate. Note that it is considered tsigounia, stinginess, to run separate tabs, especially because much of the meal is Chinese-style. Greeks either divide the bill equally among the party, no matter who ate what, or one person magnanimously treats (always accompanied by much protest from other diners). A good host insists that you eat or drink more, and only when you have refused a number of times, will you get a reprieve; be charmingly persistent in your "no." When you plan to meet someone, be aware that Greeks have a loose sense of time. They may be punctual if meeting you on a street corner to go to a movie, but if they say they'll come round your hotel at 7 PM, they may show up at 8 PM.

Namedays are more important than birthdays in Greece, and the person who does the celebrating holds open house. If invited, you should take sweets, flowers, spirits, or a more personal gift if you know them well. (It's common in business circles to send a telegram to associates and clients on their nameday.) You wish the reveler chronia polla (hron-ya po-la), or "many years."

Respect is shown toward elders; they are seldom addressed by their first name but called "Kiria" (Mrs./Ms.) and "Kirie" (Mr.) So-and-So. In country churches, and all monasteries and nunneries, shorts are not allowed for either sex, and women may not wear pants. Usually, there is a stack of frumpy skirts that both men and women can don to cover their legs. In very strict places -- the Patmos monastery, for example -- women cannot reveal bare shoulders or too much cleavage. It's a good idea to carry large scarves for such occasions.

Even if you make a mistake, it's unlikely Greeks will think you offensive. They're used to foreigners, don't expect you to know all the rules, and will probably chalk up the impropriety to your culture's strange dictates.

Excursions

Most agencies offer excursions at about the same prices, but CHAT is reputed to have the best service and guides. Taking a half-day trip to the breathtaking Temple of Poseidon at Sounion avoids the hassle of dealing with the crowded public buses or paying a great deal more for a taxi. The EUR24,11 cost is well spent. A new half-day tour to the Isthmus and ancient Corinth is now available (EUR39.70). A 1-day tour to Delphi with lunch costs EUR63.23 (EUR54.41 without lunch), but the 2-day tour (EUR100 including half-board in first-class hotels, EUR86.76 for tourist-class) is far preferable. There's also a 1-day tour to Nafplion, Mycenae, and Epidauros (EUR63.23 with lunch), and a 2-day tour to Mycenae, Nafplion, and Epidaurus (EUR100 first-class, EUR86.76 tourist-class). A 3-day tour takes in both Delphi and the stunning monasteries of Meteora with half-board in first-class hotels (EUR232.35, EUR202.94 tourist-class). For those who have more time, the 4-day tour covers Nafplion, Mycenae, Epidauros, Olympia, and Delphi for EUR314.70 (first-class) and EUR275 (tourist-class). The 5-day "classical tour" (EUR423 first-class, EUR370 tourist-class) covers all major sights in the Peloponnese, as well as Delphi and Meteora. A full-day cruise from Piraeus, visiting three nearby islands -- Aegina, Poros, and Hydra -- costs around EUR60.29 (including buffet lunch on the ship). Athens travel agencies can also arrange a 6-day northern Greece tour including Delphi, Meteora, Thessaloniki, and outlying archaeological sites for EUR617.

Orientation Tours

Most travel agencies offer 4-hour morning bus tours of Athens (EUR30.80), including a guided tour of the Acropolis and its museum. Reservations can be made through most hotels or any travel agency; many are clustered around Filellinon and Nikis streets off Syntagma Square.

Personal Guides

Major travel agencies can provide English-speaking guides. The Union of Official Guides (Apollonas 9A, PHONE: 01/322-9705, FAX: 01/323-9200) provides licensed guides for individual or group tours, starting at about EUR82.35 including taxes for a 4-hour tour of the Acropolis and its museum. Only hire guides licensed by the EOT, which means they have successfully completed a 2-year state program.

Special-Interest Tours

Athens by Night tours, offered by all agencies, are a convenient way to see some of the touristy evening entertainment, especially for single travelers who may not want to venture out alone. For those interested in folk dancing, there is a 4-hour evening tour (EUR29.41) from April to October, which includes the Sound and Light Spectacle and a performance of Dora Stratou folk dances. Another evening tour follows the Sound and Light Spectacle with a dinner show at a Plaka taverna (EUR41). Any travel agency can arrange these tours, but go first to CHAT Tours for reliable and efficient service. For organized adventure travel, contact Trekking Hellas and F-Zein.

The Amphitrion Holidays, part of the Amphitrion Travel group, specializes in educational and offbeat tours for individuals in Athens and elsewhere, including island-hopping tours and treks in the Pindos mountains.

Cruises to the four most popular islands -- Mykonos, Rhodes, Crete, and Santorini -- usually operate from mid-March through October. Try Golden Sun Cruises (Akti Miaouli 85, Piraeus, PHONE: 01/429-0650 through 01/429-0660, FAX: 01/420-0660 for reservations www.goldensuncruises.com) and Royal Olympic Cruises (Akti Miaouli 87, Piraeus, PHONE: 01/429-0700 for reservations, FAX: 01/429-0636 for reservations www.royalolympiccruises.com). Most also have downtown Athens representatives.

For hiking tours, the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (Milioni 5, Kolonaki, PHONE: 01/364-5904, FAX: 01/364-2687) supplies details on mountain paths, refuges, and contact numbers for local clubs.

For horseback riding tours, the helpful Hellenic Equestrian Federation (Messinias 55, Goudi, PHONE: 01/748-6875 or 01/748-6876, FAX: 01/778-1572) provides a list of Athens's riding clubs.

Greece's strong summer sun and low humidity can lead to sunburn or sunstroke if you're not careful. A hat, long-sleeve shirt, and long pants or a sarong are essential for spending a day at the beach or visiting archaeological sites. Sunglasses, a hat, and sunblock are necessities, and insect repellent may keep the occasional horsefly and mosquito at bay. Drink plenty of water. Most beaches present few dangers, but keep a lookout for the occasional jellyfish and, in some areas, sea urchins. Should you step on one, don't break off the embedded spines, which may lead to infection, but remove them with heated olive oil and a needle.

Food is seldom a problem, but the liberal amounts of olive oil used in Greek cooking may be indigestible for some. Tap water in Greece is fine, and bottled spring water is readily available.

For minor ailments, go to the local pharmacy first, where the licensed staff can make recommendations for over-the-counter drugs. Most pharmacies are closed in the evenings and on weekends, but each posts the name of the nearest pharmacy open off-hours. Newspapers, including the Athens News, also carry a listing of pharmacies open late. If you speak Greek, you can dial a recorded message listing the off-hours pharmacies (tel. 107 in Athens, 102 outside the capital). Most state hospitals and rural clinics won't charge you for tending to minor ailments, even if you're not an EU citizen; at most, you'll pay a minimal fee. In an emergency you can call an ambulance (tel. 166), but waving down a taxi is faster, since cars in big cities give way reluctantly to ambulances. Most hotels will call a doctor for you. In Athens, you can locate a doctor on call 2 PM-7 AM on Sunday and on holidays by dialing 105 (tel. 101 outside of Athens), but the message is in Greek. For a dentist, check with your hotel, embassy, or the tourist police.

Greek is the native language not only of Greece but also of Cyprus. Though it's a byword for incomprehensible ("it was all Greek to me," says Casca in Shakespeare's Julius Caesar), much of the difficulty lies in its different alphabet. Not all the 24 Greek letters have precise English equivalents, and there is usually more than one way to spell a Greek word in English. For instance, the letter delta sounds like the English letters "dh," and the sound of the letter gamma may be transliterated as a "g," "gh," or "y." Because of this the Greek for Holy Trinity might appear in English as Agia Triada, Aghia Triada, Ayia Triada, or even (if the initial aspiration and the "dh" are used) Hagia Triadha. It seems complicated, but don't let it throw you. With a little time spent learning the alphabet and some basic phrases, you can acquire enough Greek to navigate -- i.e., exchange greetings, find a hotel room, and get from one town to another. Many Greeks know English but appreciate a two-way effort. Only in isolated mountain villages might you not find someone who speaks at least a few words; in most cities and tourist areas, all Greeks know at least one foreign language. Note that if you ask directions, you will often get numerous opinions and a slew of people involved, or at least the next table. It's best to use close-ended queries: "Is this the path to Galissas? Do I turn right at the stone church or left?"If you only have 15 minutes to learn Greek, memorize the following: yiá sou (hello/goodbye, informal for one person); yiá sas (hello/goodbye, formal for one person and used for a group); miláte angliká? (do you speak English?); den katalavéno (I don't understand); parakaló (please/you're welcome); signómi (excuse me); efharistó (thank you); ne (yes); óhee (no); pósso? (how much?); pou eéne ee? (where is?), …ee twaléta? (…the toilet?), …to tahidromío? (…the post office?), …to stathmó? (…the station?); kali méra (good morning), kali spéra (good evening), kali níhta (good night).

Letters and postcards take about three to four days to reach the U.K., a week to 10 days for the U.S., about 10 days for Australia and New Zealand. That's airmail. It takes even longer during August when postal staff is reduced, and during Christmas and Easter holidays. And sometimes, your letter may never arrive at all, though that usually happens to post entering Greece. If what you're mailing is important, send it registered, which costs only about EUR1.76 in Greece. For a bit more, depending on the weight, you can also send your letter "express"; this earns you a red sticker and faster local delivery. However, avoid the post office's EMS Express Service. Although you pay about EUR14.74 for a letter and it arrives in the country of destination within two days, it takes another 24 to 48 hours for delivery. If sending a parcel, you must take it open to the post office for inspection. Bring brown butcher paper, tape, and string along, since the post office does not provide wrapping materials. Packages take even longer to arrive -- "surface/air lift" means your parcel will need at least two weeks to get to any destination.

Although costs have risen astronomically since Greece joined the EU, the country will seem reasonably priced to travelers from the U.S. and Great Britain. Popular tourist resorts (including some of the islands) and the larger cities are markedly more expensive than the countryside. Though the price of eating in a restaurant has increased over the past several years, it often remains a bargain. Hotels are generally moderately priced, and the extra cost of accommodations in a luxury hotel, compared to an average hotel, often seems unwarranted.

Transportation is a good deal in Greece. Bus and train tickets are inexpensive, though renting a car is costly; there are relatively cheap -- and slow -- ferries to the islands, and express boats and hydrofoils that cost more. If your time is limited, domestic flights are a fair trade-off in cost and time saved, compared with sea and land travel.

Some sample prices: admission to archaeological sites: EUR1.47-EUR5.89; authentic Greek sponge: 6.48; a cup of coffee in a central city café: EUR2.35-EUR2.94 (Greek coffee is cheaper); beer: (500 ml) EUR1.32, in a bar EUR2.35-EUR2.94; soft drink: (can) EUR.44, and in a café EUR1.76; spinach pie: EUR.88; souvlaki: EUR1.03; grilled cheese sandwich, tost: EUR2.35; foreign newspaper: EUR1.03-EUR2.21. Admission is free to most museums and archaeological sites on Sunday from November through March. The rest of the year, prices range from EUR1.47 to EUR5.89; admission is substantially reduced for children, students, and senior citizens.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available throughout the country. Virtually all banks, including the National Bank of Greece (known as Ethniki), have machines that dispense money to Cirrus or Plus card holders. You may find bank-sponsored ATMs at harbors and in airports as well. Other systems accepted include Visa, Master Card, American Express, Diner's Club, and Eurocard, but exchange and withdrawal rates vary, so shop around and check fees with your bank before leaving home. For use in Greece, your PIN must be only four digits long. The word for PIN is pronounced "peen" and ATMs are called alpha taf mi, after the letters, or just to mixanima, "the machine." Machines usually let you complete the transaction in English, French, or German, and seldom create problems, except Sunday night, when they sometimes run out of cash. Also, for most machines, the minimum amount dispensed is about EUR30. Sometimes an ATM may refuse to "read" your card. Don't panic, it's probably the machine. Try another bank.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the drachma, ceased to be legal tender at the end of February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

Drachma bills were in denominations of 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, and 500. Coins were 100, 50, 20, 10, 5.

Exchanging Money

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. Off Syntagma in Athens, the National Bank, General Bank, Credit Bank, Ionian Bank, Commercial Bank, and Macedonia-Thrace Bank all have automated machines that change your foreign currency into drachmas.

If you do use an exchange booth, good options are American Express and Eurochange. Watch daily fluctuations and shop around. Daily exchange rates are prominently displayed in banks and listed in the Athens News. In Athens, around Syntagma Square is the best place to look. Those that operate after business hours have lower rates and a higher commission. You can also change money at post offices -- located in even the most remote parts of Greece; commissions are lower than banks, starting about 900 dr./EUR2.65 for amounts up to 100,000 dr./EUR294. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

Exchange Services

International Currency Express (PHONE: 888/278-6628 for orders, www.foreignmoney.com).

Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362 for telephone orders and retail locations, www.us.thomascook.com).

Athens Exchange Services

American Express Travel Related Services (Ermou 2, Syntagma, PHONE: 01/324-4975), open weekdays 8:30-4 and Saturday 8:30-1:30.

Eurochange (Karageorgi Servias 2, Syntagma, PHONE: 01/331-2462), open 8 AM-11 PM daily; Fillelinon 22 and Kithadineon, near Plaka, PHONE: 01/324-3997, open daily 8 AM-10 PM.

Taxes

Taxes are always included in the stated price, unless otherwise noted. The Greek airport tax (EUR10 each way on all flights) is included in your ticket, and the 10.6% hotel tax rate is usually included in the quoted price.

Tipping

How much to tip in Greece, especially at restaurants, is confusing. By law a service charge is figured into the price of a meal (menus sometimes list entrées with and without service, to let you know their net cost -- not to imply you have a choice of how much to pay). However, it is customary to leave an 8%-10% tip if the service was satisfactory. During the Christmas and Greek Easter holiday periods, restaurants tack on an obligatory 18% holiday bonus to your bill for the waiters.

The appropriate tip for maid service at your hotel depends on the quality of the service, the length of your stay, and the quality of the hotel. A service charge is included in the price of the room, but you might consider leaving an additional EUR.50 to EUR1 per night in those hotels costing more than EUR65 or so a night. Porters, found only at the more expensive hotels, should get EUR.50 per bag; room-service waiters merit EUR.30 per delivery. If a concierge has been very helpful, you can leave from EUR3 to EUR15. For rest-room attendants EUR.30 is appropriate. People dispensing programs at cinemas also get EUR.30. On cruises, cabin and dining-room stewards get about EUR2 a day; guides receive about the same. For taxis, round up the fare to the nearest EUR.30; during holidays, drivers legally receive a mandatory "gift"; the amount is posted in the cab during applicable days.

Entering Greece

All U.S., Canadian, Australian, and New Zealand citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter Greece for stays of up to 90 days. If you leave after 90 days and don't have a visa extension, you will be fined (about EUR90) by Greek airport officials, who are not flexible on this issue. Worse, you must provide hartosima (revenue stamps) for the documents, which you don't want to have to run around and find as your flight is boarding. U.K. citizens, like all EU nationals, need a passport but can stay indefinitely.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410; www.ukpa.gov.uk/ukpass.htm) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Greece is still one of the safest countries in Europe. Even Athens has a low crime rate, but the number of thefts, burglaries, and pickpocketing at train and bus stations has gone up substantially in the last five years, and Greeks are starting to install alarms and lock their doors at night. You still see people sitting at cafés with their handbag carelessly dangling over chairs, or women and elderly people walking home late at night. If you take the normal precautions of carrying your money in a security pouch, and if you avoid isolated places at night, you should have little problem. After hours, many ATMs require that you use your card to enter a locked glass vestibule; if the machine is unprotected, make sure it's well-lighted and leave immediately if someone suspicious starts lurking about. So far, ATM robberies are rare. If you feel unsure about the safety of an area, ask your hotel before setting out. For example, in the last few years, crime has gone up around Omonia Square in Athens, because of the large transient population that congregates there.

Local Scams

Men in Athens around Syntagma Square should be careful of any stranger who tries to talk them into going to a local bar. Here, the unsuspecting foreigner will order drinks under the encouragement of hostesses hired by the establishment without realizing these cocktails are astronomically expensive. Hesitation in paying your whopping bill may result in uncomfortable encounters. Grab a policeman or call the tourist police (171).

The country code for Greece is 30; the city code for Athens is 01.

Greece's phone system is rapidly improving; many phones now are digital, which makes dialing a cinch compared to the old days when you had to try 10 times for one number. You can direct dial in most better hotels, but there is usually a huge surcharge, so use your calling card or a card telephone in the lobby or on the street. You can make calls from most large establishments (card or coin phones), kiosks, card phones, which are everywhere, and from the local office of the Greek telephone company, known as OTE (oh-tay).

Many Greek establishments may list several phone numbers rather than a central switchboard. Until recently, getting a second phone line was an expensive and lengthy process (some areas had to wait up to 10 years), so owners "rented" lines directly from other people. Mobile phones, indicated by an area code that begins with 09, are now common. Less than a decade after the cellular phone came to Greece, the number of users has skyrocketed to 3.9 million (just 5.4 million own conventional phones).

Doing business over the phone in Greece can be extremely frustrating -- the lines always seem to be busy, and English-speaking operators and clerks are few. You may also find people too busy to address your problem -- the independent-minded Greeks are not very service-conscious. It is far better to develop a relationship with someone, for example a travel agent, to get information about train schedules and the like, or to go in person and ask for information face-to-face. Though OTE is updating its phone system, it may take you several attempts to get through when calling from an island or the countryside. Try dialing slowly, and if you get a wrong number, don't assume it's your mistake -- the lines frequently get crossed. Don't discuss highly sensitive matters on the phone; party lines are still a social hazard in Greece.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Tourist Offices

In Athens

Greek National Tourist Organization (EOT) offices (Amerikis 2, near Syntagma Sq., PHONE: 01/331-0565 or 01/331-0692; Main Terminal [Arrivals/All Users Area] of Eleftherios Venizelos Airport, PHONE: 01/353-0448 or 01/327-1007; EOT Building, 1st floor, near where the hydrofoils dock, Zea Marina, PHONE: 01/452-2591 or 01/452-2586).

The tourist police (Dimitrakopoulou 77, PHONE: 171) can answer questions in English about transportation, steer you to an open pharmacy or doctor, and locate phone numbers of hotels and restaurants.

At Home

Greek National Tourist Organization In the U.S. (645 5th Ave., New York, NY 10022, PHONE: 212/421-5777, FAX: 212/826-6940; 611 W. 6th St., Suite 2198, Los Angeles, CA 90017, PHONE: 213/626-6696, FAX: 213/489-9744; 168 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 600, Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/782-1084, FAX: 312/782-1091). In Canada (1233 Rue de la Montagne, Suite 101, Montréal, Québec H3G 1Z2, PHONE: 514/871-1535, FAX: 514/871-1498; 1300 Bay St., Toronto, Ontario M5R 3K8, PHONE: 416/968-2220, FAX: 416/968-6533). In the U.K. (4 Conduit St., London W1R 0DJ, PHONE: 0171/734-5997).

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811 N.S., 2201 C St. NW, Washington, DC 20520, PHONE: 202/647-5225 for interactive hot line; 301/946-4400 for computer bulletin board, FAX: 202/647-3000 for interactive hot line); enclose a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope.

The best time to visit Greece is late spring and early fall. In May and June the days are warm, even hot, but dry, and the sea water has been warmed by the sun. The evenings, which seem endless, are pleasant enough to dine alfresco. For sightseeing, exploring the cities or countryside, or hitting the beach, this is the time. Greece is relatively tourist free in the spring, so if you don't like crowds, and the beach and swimming aren't high on your agenda, April and early May are a good time to visit. Carnavali, usually in February just before Lent, and Greek Easter, with its religious processions, are the highlights of the season.

September and October are a good alternative to spring and early summer, especially in the bustling cities where bars, theaters, and other cultural institutions reopen. Throughout the rest of the country, things begin to shut down in November. Transportation to the islands is limited in winter, and many hotels outside large cities are closed until the beginning of April. Unless you are going to Greece in pursuit of winter sports, try a different season.

Climate

Greece enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Chilliness and rain begin in November, the start of Greece's deceptive winters. Any given day may not be very cold -- except in the mountains, snow is uncommon in Athens and to the south. But the cold is persistent, and places are often not well-heated. Over the course of a few days you will feel chilled to the bone. Spring and fall are practically perfect, with warm days and balmy evenings. Toward the end of June and throughout July the temperatures climb, pushing the 100°F (38°C) mark. In the south a hot wind may blow across the Mediterranean from the coast of Africa. The air quality in Athens, which is surrounded on all sides by mountains (except in the direction of the harbor), can be unhealthy on especially hot days, and air-conditioning is far from ubiquitous. The situation is alleviated somewhat in August, when millions leave the city and the brisk northwesterly meltemia start to blow, cooling the city and many of the islands to a comfortable temperature.

Forecasts

Weather Channel Connection (PHONE: 900/932-8437), 95¢ per minute from a Touch-Tone phone.

Many of the sights you'll want to see, and most of the hotels, cafés, and restaurants, are within a fairly small central area. It's easy to walk everywhere, though sidewalks are sometimes obstructed by parked cars.

The price of public transportation has risen steeply in the last couple of years, but it is still less than that in Western European capitals. Riding during rush hours is definitely not recommended. Upon boarding, validate your ticket in the orange canceling machines at the front and back of buses and trolleys and in the stations of the electric trains. Keep your tickets until you reach your destination, as inspectors occasionally pop up to check that they have been canceled and validated. They are strict about fining offenders, including tourists.

The Organization for Urban Public Transportation (Metsovou15, PHONE: 185 from 7:30-3 and 7 PM-9 PM) answers questions about routes (usually only in Greek). The office, open weekdays 7:30-3, distributes maps with street names in Greek. EOT also distributes information about bus lines.

Main bus stations are at Akadimias and Sina and at Kaningos Square. Bus and trolley tickets cost EUR.35. No transfers are issued; you validate a new ticket every time you change vehicles. Monthly passes for EUR14.70 are sold at the beginning of each month at special booths at the main terminals. Purchase individual tickets at terminal booths or at selected periptera (street kiosks). Buses run from the center to all suburbs and nearby beaches from 5 AM to about midnight, and very few routes have infrequent owl service. For suburbs north of Kifissia, change at Kifissia's main square, Platia Platanou.

KTEL buses provide efficient bus service throughout the Attica basin. Most buses to the east Attica coast -- including those for Sounion (fare EUR3.38 for inland route or EUR3.52 for coastal road) and Marathon (fare EUR2.20) -- leave from the KTEL terminal (Platia Aigyptou at corner of Mavromateon and Leoforos Alexandras near Pedion Areos park, PHONE: 01/821-3203 for Sounion; 01/821-0872 for Marathon).

Driving in Athens is not recommended unless you have nerves of steel. Red traffic lights are frequently ignored, and it is not unusual to see motorists passing other vehicles on hills and while rounding corners. Driving is on the right, and, although the vehicle on the right has the right-of-way, don't expect this or any other driving rule to be obeyed. The speed limit is 50 kph (31 mph) in town. Seat belts are compulsory, as are helmets for motorcyclists, though many natives ignore the laws. In downtown Athens do not drive in the bus lanes marked by a yellow divider; if caught, you may be fined.

Unless you are a citizen of an EU country, you must have an international driver's license. The Automobile Touring Club of Greece (ELPA; Messoghion 395, Agia Paraskevi 15343, PHONE: 01/606-8800; 104 in an emergency; 174, FAX: 01/606-8981) no longer issues these, so non-EU members should arrange for a license through their local automobile association. ELPA can help with tourist information for drivers (PHONE: 01/606-8800; 104 in an emergency; 174), and they assist tourists with breakdowns free of charge if they belong to AAA or to ELPA (EUR102.94 a year); otherwise, there is a charge.

Downtown parking spaces are hard to find -- you can pay to use one of the few temporary parking areas set up in vacant lots, but you're better off leaving your car in the hotel garage and walking or taking a cab. Gas pumps and service stations are everywhere, and lead-free gas is widely available. Be aware that all-night stations are few and far between.

Car Rentals

Because driving in Greece can be harrowing, car rental prices are higher than in the U.S., and transporting a car by ferry hikes up the fare substantially, think twice before deciding on car rental. It's much easier to take public transportation or taxis, which are among the cheapest in Europe. The exception is large islands where the distance between towns is greater -- and taxi fares higher. Then you may want to rent a car or a moped for the day for concentrated bouts of sightseeing.

Official rates in Greece during high season (July through September) for an economy car such as an Opel Corsa or Hyundai Atos range from EUR24.48 a day (100 km minimum charge at EUR.40 per km mi]) to EUR71.68 for three to six days (unlimited mileage). Smaller cars (Fiat Seicento, for example) rent for about EUR19.46 a day (EUR.33 per km) in high season; four-wheel-drives (Suzuki Samurai 1.3) cost EUR52.80 a day (EUR.58 per km). This does not include the 18% value-added tax (13% on Rhodes, Kos, Lesbos, Santorini, Chios, Thassos, Samos, Skiathos, Karpathos, Skopelos, Mykonos, Paros, and Naxos).

Luxury cars are available at some agencies. Europcar rents a BMW 520 Clima or a Rover 75 for EUR95.87 a day (EUR1.03 per km) during low season, EUR118 (EUR1.17 per km) in high season. Convertibles ("open" cars) and minibuses are also available. Probably the most difficult car to rent, unless you reserve from abroad, is an automatic. Off-season, rental agencies are often closed on islands and in less-populated areas.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Requirements

In Greece your own driver's license is not acceptable unless you are an EU citizen. For non-EU citizens, an International Driver's Permit is necessary; it's available from the American or Canadian automobile associations. To rent, you must have had your driver's license for one year and be at least 21 years old if you use a credit card (sometimes 23 if you pay cash), and for some of the car categories, you must be 25. You need the agency's permission to ferry the car or cross the border (Europcar does not allow across-the-border rentals).

Road Conditions

Driving defensively is the key to safety in Greece. Greece is one of the most hazardous European countries for motorists. In the city and on the highways, the streets are riddled with potholes, motorcyclists seem to come out of nowhere, often passing on the right, and cars may even go the wrong way down a one-way street. In the countryside and on islands, you must watch for livestock crossing the road, as well as tourists shakily learning the motorbikes they've recently rented.

The many motorcycles and scooters weaving through traffic and the aggressive attitude of fellow motorists can make driving in Greece's large cities unpleasant -- and the life of a pedestrian actively dangerous; Greeks often run red lights or ignore stop signs on side streets, travel the wrong way on one-way roads, or round corners without stopping. It's a good idea at night at city intersections and any time on curvy country lanes to beep your horn to warn errant drivers. Rush hour in the cities runs from 7 to 10 AM and 2:30 to 3:30 PM on weekdays, plus 8 to 9 PM on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. Saturday mornings means bumper-to-bumper traffic in shopping districts, and weekend nights guarantees crowding around nightlife hubs. In Athens, the only time you won't find traffic is very early morning and most of Sunday (unless you're foolish enough to go to a local beach at 4 PM in summer). If air pollution has reached dangerous levels in Athens, all cars are banned from the center. Finally, perhaps because they are untrained, drivers seldom pull over for wailing ambulances; the most they'll do is slow down and slightly move over in different directions -- complete chaos.

In the countryside, off the National Road where tolls range from EUR.73 to EUR2.65, traffic is light, and driving is more enjoyable, but highway route numbers are largely nonexistent. The National Road is very slick when wet -- avoid driving in rain and on the days preceding or following major holidays, when traffic is at its worst as urban dwellers leave for their villages. The highway is always under repair, night lighting is sometimes out, and the lane markings are often hard to fathom, so stay awake and follow all signs to slow down.

Rules of the Road

International road signs are in use throughout Greece. You drive on the right, pass on the left, and yield right-of-way to all vehicles approaching from the right (except on posted main highways). Cars may not make a right turn on a red light. The speed limits are 120 kph (74 mph) on the National Road, 90 kph (54 mph) outside urban areas, and 50 kph (31 mph) in cities, unless lower limits are posted. There are very few traffic police on the highways to enforce speeding limits or any other rules. Often, no limits are posted, and even when they are, many Greeks don't obey them.

In many city neighborhoods, alternate-side-of-the-street parking rules are in effect. Although it's illegal, sidewalk parking is common. Once in a blue moon, police walk city streets and dispense tickets for a few blocks as a warning. Although it's tempting as a visitor to ignore parking tickets, keep in mind that if you've surrendered your ID to the rental agency, you won't get it back until you clear up the matter. You can pay your tickets at the rental agency or local police station; fines start at EUR29.49 and can go as high as EUR147.49 It never hurts to plead your case at the police station, especially if you have a reasonable argument. As a rule, police often give foreigners a break. However, they have become far stricter lately, regularly inspecting cars (which must have a fire extinguisher, emergency triangle, and first-aid kit) and introducing alcohol tests. The alcohol limit is 0.05, but if you are not too far over it, the police use their discretion about issuing a citation.

If you are involved in an accident, don't drive away. If the police take you in (they can hold you for 24 hours), you have the right to call your local embassy or consulate for help getting a lawyer. The use of seat belts and helmets is compulsory, though Greeks tend to ignore these rules, or comply with them by "wearing" the helmet on their elbows.

Athens opened two new metro lines in 2000, significantly extending Line 1, which runs through the city from the plush suburb of Kifissia in the north to Piraeus harbor in the south. Downtown stations on Line 1 most frequented by tourists include Platia Victorias, which is within walking distance of the National Archaeological Museum; Omonia Square; Monastiraki, located in the old Turkish bazaar; and Thission, near the ancient Agora and the nightlife districts of Psirri and Thission.

The new Line 2 cuts northwest across the city, passing through such useful stops as a station at the foot of the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, Panepistimiou (near the Old University complex and the Numismatic Museum), Omonia Square, and the Stathmos Larissis stop next to Athens's train stations. Line 3 runs from Syntagma Square northeast to the Greek "Pentagon" (Ethnikis Aminas). The stops of most interest for tourists are Evanglismos, which is near the Byzantine Museum, Hilton Hotel, and National Gallery, and Megaro Mousikis, next to the U.S. Embassy and Athens's concert hall.

The subway fare is EUR.44 if you stay only on Line 1; otherwise, it's EUR.73. You can buy a monthly pass covering the subway, buses, and trolleys for EUR29.41 at the beginning of each month. Remember to validate your ticket by stamping it in the orange machines at the entrance to the platforms, or you will be fined.

Taxi rates are still affordable compared to fares in other European capitals, mainly because taxis operate unofficially on the jitney system, indicating willingness to pick up others by blinking their headlights or simply slowing down. Would-be passengers shout their destination as the driver cruises past.

Radio taxis can be booked by your hotel (a good idea when taking an early morning flight), with a surcharge of EUR1.17 for immediate response and EUR1.76-EUR2.05 for an appointment to come later. Contact:

Athina 1 (PHONE: 01/921-7942).

Hellas (PHONE: 01/645-7000 or 01/801-4000).

Kosmos (PHONE: 01/1300).

Parthenon (PHONE: 01/532-3300).

Most taxi drivers are honest and hardworking, but a few con artists infiltrate the ranks at the airports and near popular restaurants and clubs frequented by foreigners. Get an idea from your hotel how much the fare should be, and if there's trouble, ask to go to a police station, although most disagreements don't ever get that far. Most drivers speak basic English. Make sure the driver turns on the meter and that the rate listed in the lower corner is 1, the normal rate before midnight. Don't be alarmed if your driver picks up other passengers (although protocol indicates he should ask your permission first and never pick up anyone if you are a woman traveling alone at night). Each passenger pays full fare for the distance he or she has traveled.

The fare begins at EUR.58, and even if you join other passengers, you must add this charge to the final amount: note the fare on the meter when you get in an occupied taxi. The minimum fare is EUR1.47. The rate is EUR.21 per 1 km (2/3 mi), EUR.38 between midnight and 5 AM and outside city limits. Surcharges are made for holidays (EUR.35); fares to and from the airport (EUR.88); fares to, but not from, ports, railway stations, and bus terminals (EUR.44); and for each bag weighing more than 10 kilograms (EUR.16), though drivers expect more (EUR.29). Waiting time is EUR6.76 per hour.

Taxi drivers know the major central hotels, but if your hotel is less well known, show the driver the address written in Greek and make note of the phone number and, if possible, a nearby landmark. If all else fails, the driver can call the hotel from his mobile phone or a kiosk. Athens has thousands of short side streets, and few taxi drivers have maps.