Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI) (PHONE:246/428-7101), a large and modern facility, is a major hub for airlines serving Eastern Caribbean destinations. The airport is in Christ Church Parish, about 15 minutes from south-coast hotels, 45 minutes from west-coast ones, and 30 minutes from Bridgetown.

Flights from New York take about 4 hours, and from Miami they take about 3½ hours. Nonstop flights from London to Barbados take about 7 hours.

Carriers

From North America and Europe

Air Canada (PHONE:888/247-2262; 246/428-5077 in Barbados; www.aircanada.ca) flies nonstop from Toronto and Montréal.

Air Jamaica (PHONE:800/523-5585; 246/420-1956 in Barbados; www.airjamaica.com) has nonstop service from New York and from other cities through its Montego Bay hub.

American Airlines (PHONE:800/433-7300; 246/428-4170 in Barbados; www.aa.com) has nonstop service from New York and Miami and direct service from other U.S. cities, connecting with American Eagle in San Juan.

British Airways (PHONE:0845/77-333-77; 246/436-6413 in Barbados; www.britishairways.com) offers daily service from London, as well as limited Concorde service.

BWIA (PHONE:800/538-2942; 246/426-2111 in Barbados; www.bwee.com) flies nonstop from New York and Miami and from Washington Dulles several times a week; the airline also has weekly flights from Toronto and thrice-weekly flights from the United Kingdom through Trinidad.

US Airways (PHONE:800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) has daily nonstop service from Philadelphia.

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE:0129/374-7747; 246/228-4886 in Barbados; 800/744-7477 in North America; www.virginatlantic.com) flies nonstop from London Gatwick.

From Caribbean Destinations

BWIA Express (PHONE:800/538-2942; www.bwee.com) flies from Antigua, Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, St. Lucia, St. Maarten, St. Vincent, and Trinidad and Tobago.

Caribbean Star (PHONE:268/461-7827; 800/744-7827 within the Caribbean; www.flycaribbeanstar.com) offers frequent daily service between its Barbados hub and Antigua, St. Maarten, Grenada, St. Vincent, and Dominica.

LIAT (PHONE:888/844-5428; 246/434-5428 in Barbados; www.liatairline.com) connects Barbados with Anguilla, Antigua, Dominica, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Guyana, Martinique, Puerto Rico, St. Croix, St. Kitts and Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Trinidad and Tobago, and St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

Mustique Airways (PHONE:246/428-1638 in Barbados) links Barbados with St. Vincent and the Grenadines (Bequia, Canouan, Carriacou, Mustique, and Union) on scheduled shared-charter flights.

SVG Air (PHONE:784/457-5124; 800/744-5777 within the Caribbean; www.svgair.com) flies between Barbados and St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

Trans Island Air 2000 (PHONE:246/418-1650 in the Caribbean; www.tia2000.com) flies regional shared charters between Barbados and the Grenadines.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Taxis and other ground transportation (such as vans from hotels that provide airport transfers) are available immediately upon exiting the customs area at the airport.

By Taxi

Airport taxis aren't metered, but fares are regulated (about $28 to Speightstown, $20-$22 to west-coast hotels, $10-$13 to south-coast ones). Before you get into a cab, establish with the driver what the fare will be and confirm whether the price quoted is in U.S. or Barbadian dollars.

Half the visitors to Barbados are cruise passengers. Bridgetown's Deep Water Harbour is on the northwest side of Carlisle Bay, and up to eight cruise ships can dock at the Cruise Ship Terminal. Downtown Bridgetown is a ½-mi (1-km) walk from the pier; a taxi costs about $3 each way.

Banks

Banks are open Monday-Thursday 8-3, Friday 8-5 (some branches in supermarkets are open Saturday morning 9-noon). At the airport, the Barbados National Bank is open from 8 AM until the last plane leaves or arrives, seven days a week (including holidays).

Shops

Most stores in Bridgetown are open weekdays 8:30-5, Saturday 8:30-1. Out-of-town locations may stay open later. Some supermarkets are open daily 8-6 or later.

Arriving in Barbados

These rules generally apply throughout the Caribbean: you are limited to bringing in 2 liters of alcohol, two cartons of cigarettes, and a reasonable amount of duty-free goods for your personal use. More than that, and you'll be asked to pay a hefty import tax.

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Antigua. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

Electric current on Barbados is 110 volts/50 cycles, U.S. standard. Hotels generally have adapters/transformers for appliances made in countries that operate on 220-volt current.

Australian High Commission (Bishop's Court Hill, Pine Rd., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/435-2834).

British High Commission (Lower Collymore Rock, Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/430-7800).

Canadian High Commission (Bishop's Court Hill, Pine Rd., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/429-3550).

Embassy of the United States (Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/436-4950).

Ambulance (PHONE:511).

Fire emergencies (PHONE:311).

Police (PHONE:211 emergencies; 242/430-7100 nonemergencies).

Hospitals

Bayview Hospital (St. Paul's Ave., Bayville, St. Michael, PHONE:246/436-5446).

Queen Elizabeth Hospital (Martindales Rd., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/436-6450).

Pharmacies

Collins Ltd (Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/426-4515).

Grant's (Fairchild St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/436-6120).

Knight's (Lower Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/426-5196).

Scuba-Diving Emergencies

Coast Guard Defence Force (24-hour hyperbaric chamber) (St. Ann's Fort, Garrison, St. Michael, PHONE:246/427-8819 emergencies; 246/436-6185 nonemergencies).

Divers' Alert Network (PHONE:246/684-8111 or 246/684-2948).

The British influence remains strong, in part because Barbados is the favorite island retreat and the retirement choice of many Brits. Most hotels serve afternoon tea, cricket is the national pastime, and patrons at some bars are as likely to order a Pimm's Cup as a rum and Coke. British-style manners combine with a Caribbean friendliness and openness to give Bajans their special charm.

Dress appropriately and discreetly, saving swimwear for the beach. Shorts and T-shirts are fine for sightseeing and shopping but frowned upon in restaurants in the evening.

A half- or full-day bus or taxi tour is a good way to get your bearings and can be arranged by your hotel. The price varies according to the number of attractions included; a full-day tour (five to six hours) costs an average $50-$60 per person and generally includes lunch and admissions.

Bajan Helicopters (Bridgetown Heliport, Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/431-0069) offers an eagle's-eye view of the island for $75 to $125.

Family-run Bajan Tours (Bishop's Court Hill, St. Michael, PHONE:246/437-9389) offers eight coach or minivan tours, including cultural, historic, ecological, and general sightseeing routings for $40 to $60 per person.

Every Wednesday afternoon from mid-January through mid-April the Barbados National Trust (Wildey House, Wildey, St. Michael, PHONE:246/426-2421) offers a bus tour that stops at historic great houses and private homes. The cost is $18 per person, which includes transportation to and from your hotel.

Island Safari (Main Rd., Bush Hall, St. Michael, PHONE:246/429-5337; www.barbadostraveler.com) will take you to all the popular spots and some that are out-of-the-way and inaccessible by buses or normal vehicles, but you'll be riding in a 4x4 Land Rover. The cost is $40 to $60 per person.

L. E. Williams Tour Co. (Hastings, Christ Church, PHONE:246/427-1043) offers island bus tours, which cost $30-$85 per person.

Sally Shearn operates VIP Tour Services (Hillcrest Villa, Upton, St. Michael, PHONE:246/429-4617). Up to four people are picked up in an air-conditioned Mercedes-Benz and charged $40 per hour for a minimum of four hours. Your choice of tours (coastal, inland, cultural, naturalist, architectural, or customized) includes refreshment stops.

Insects aren't much of a problem, but if you plan to hike or spend time on secluded beaches in late afternoon, use insect repellent. Tap water on the island is plentiful and pure. It's naturally filtered through 1,000 ft of pervious coral and safe to drink.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

Traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water, isn't a big problem in the Caribbean, but it does occur. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Island drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with familiar over-the-counter medicines and other health products that you might need. If you don't see precisely what you want, ask the pharmacist to recommend an appropriate substitute. If you can only use a specific or an uncommon medicine, be sure to bring a sufficient supply with you.

Pests and Other Hazards

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin. The worst insect problem may well be the tiny no-see-ums (sand flies) that appear after a rain, near swampy ground, and around sunset; mosquitoes can also be annoying. Bring along a good repellent.

Shots and Medications

No special shots or vaccinations are required for Caribbean destinations.

English, the official language, is spoken by everyone, everywhere. The Bajan dialect is based on Afro-Caribbean rhythms, but you may notice a distinctly Irish lilt (with a hard "R" sound) that differentiates the Bajan accent from its Caribbean neighbors. As for the African influence, you can see it in names of typical Bajan foods, such as cou-cou and buljol.

An airmail letter from Barbados to the United States or Canada costs Bds$1.15 per half ounce; an airmail postcard, Bds45¢. Letters to the United Kingdom cost Bds$1.40; postcards, Bds75¢. Letters to Australia and New Zealand cost Bds$2.75; postcards, Bds$1.75. When sending mail to Barbados, be sure to include the parish name in the address.

Airmail between Caribbean islands and cities in the United States or Canada takes 7-14 days; surface mail can take 4-6 weeks. Airmail to the United Kingdom takes 2-3 weeks, to Australia and New Zealand, 3-4 weeks.

Courier services (such as Airborne, FedEx, UPS, and others) operate throughout the Caribbean, although not every company serves each island. "Overnight" service is more likely to take two or more days, because of the limited number of flights on which packages can be shipped.

Post Offices

The general post office, in Cheapside, Bridgetown, is open weekdays 7:30-5; the Sherbourne Conference Center branch is open weekdays 8:15-4:30 during conferences; and branches in each parish are open weekdays 8-3:15.

ATMs

Automated teller machines (ATMs) are available 24 hours a day at bank branches, transportation centers, shopping centers, gas stations, and other convenient spots throughout the island.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards readily accepted throughout Barbados include American Express, BarclayCard, Carte Blanche, Diners Club, EnRoute, Eurocard, MasterCard, and Visa. You can use major credit cards, if you have a PIN, to obtain cash advances (in Barbadian dollars) from most ATM machines.

Currency

The Barbados dollar is tied to the U.S. dollar at the rate of Bds$1.98 to $1. U.S. paper currency, major credit cards, and traveler's checks are all accepted islandwide. Be sure you know which currency is being quoted when making a purchase.

Exchanging Money

The local Barbados National Bank has a branch at Grantley Adams International Airport that is open every day from 8 AM until the last plane lands or arrives. Barclays Bank is an international bank with several branches in Barbados. The Bank of Nova Scotia, or Scotiabank, is a major Canadian bank that is represented throughout the Caribbean. Caribbean Commercial Bank has convenient Saturday morning hours at its branch at Sunset Crest Mall, in Holetown. CIBC, also a Canadian bank with a network of operations on Caribbean islands, has several branches and ATM machines in Barbados.

Barbados National Bank (Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/431-5800).

First Caribbean International Bank (Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/431-5151).

Bank of Nova Scotia (Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/431-3000).

Caribbean Commercial Bank (Lower Broad St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/431-2500).

Taxes

A 7½% government tax is added to all hotel bills. A 10% service charge is usually added to hotel bills and restaurant checks in lieu of tipping. At your discretion, tip beyond the service charge to recognize extraordinary service.

A 15% Value Added Tax (V.A.T.) is imposed on restaurant meals, admissions to attractions, and merchandise sales (other than duty-free). Prices are often tax inclusive; if not, the VAT will be added to your bill.

At the airport, each adult passenger leaving Barbados must pay a departure tax of $12.50 (Bds$25), payable in either Barbadian or U.S. currency; children 12 and under are exempt. While it may be included in cruise packages as a component of port charges, the departure tax is not included in airfare and must be paid by each traveler prior to entering the secure area of the airport.

Tipping

If no service charge is added to your bill, tip waiters 10%-15% and maids $2 per room per day. Tip bellhops and airport porters $1 per bag. Taxi drivers appreciate a 10% tip.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Barbados

U.S. and Canadian citizens can enter Barbados for visits of up to three months with proof of citizenship and a return or ongoing ticket. Acceptable proof is a valid passport or a birth certificate with a raised seal and a government-issued photo ID. No other documents, including voter registration cards or baptismal certificates, are acceptable. Nevertheless, it's always best to carry a passport. British subjects and citizens of countries that are members of the British Commonwealth must present a valid passport and ongoing ticket.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html). Calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service.

Crime isn't a major problem, but take normal precautions. Lock your room, and don't leave valuables in plain sight or unattended on the beach. Lock your rental car, and don't pick up hitchhikers.

The area code for Barbados is 246.

Local calls are free from private phones; some hotels charge a small fee.

Directory & Operator Information

For directory assistance, dial 411.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Direct-dialing to the United States, Canada, and other countries is efficient and reasonable, but always check with your hotel to see if a surcharge is added. Some toll-free numbers cannot be accessed in Barbados. To charge your overseas call on a major credit card without incurring a surcharge, dial 800/744-2000 from any phone.

Public Phones

Calls from pay phones cost Bds25¢ for five minutes. Prepaid phone cards, which can be used throughout Barbados and other Caribbean islands, are sold at shops, attractions, transportation centers, and other convenient outlets.

Tourist Offices

In Barbados

Barbados Tourism Authority (Harbour Road, Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/427-2623, FAX: 246/426-4080).

Barbados Hotel & Tourism Assn (4th Ave., Belleville, St. Michael, PHONE:246/426-5041, FAX: 246/429-2845, www.bhta.org).

At Home

Barbados Tourism Authority (800 2nd Ave., 2nd floor, New York, NY, 10017, PHONE:212/986-6516 or 800/221-9831, FAX: 212/573-9850, www.barbados.org).

Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) (80 Broad St., New York, NY, 10004, PHONE:212/635-9530, FAX: 212/635-9511).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots).

Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand.

As part of the late-fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

Holidays

Public holidays are: New Year's Day (Jan. 1), Errol Barrow Day (Jan. 21), Good Friday (Fri. before Easter), Easter Monday (day after Easter), National Heroes Day (Apr. 28), Labour Day (May 1), Whit Monday (7th Mon. after Easter), Emancipation Day (Aug. 1), Kadooment Day (first Mon. in Aug.), Independence Day (Nov. 30), Christmas (Dec. 25), and Boxing Day (Dec. 26).

Bus service is efficient, inexpensive, and plentiful. Blue buses with a yellow stripe are public, yellow buses with a blue stripe are private, and private "Zed-R" vans (so called for their ZR license plate designation) are white with a maroon stripe. All buses travel frequently along Highway 1 (St. James Road) and Highway 7 (South Coast Main Road), as well as inland routes. The fare is Bds$1.50 (75¢) for any one destination; exact change in either currency is appreciated.

Buses pass along main roads about every 20 minutes. Stops are marked by small signs on roadside poles that say "to city" or "out of cit

If you are staying in a remote location, such as the east coast, you will find it practical to rent a car for the duration of your stay. Folks staying in more populated areas, where taxis and public transportation are available at the door, might rent a car or minimoke for a day or two of exploring on their own. Bathing suits and beach towels -- and a map -- are requisite gear for such an adventure; hotels can supply a picnic lunch.

There are gas stations in Bridgetown, on the main highways along the west and south coasts, and in most inland parishes. Although times vary, you'll find that most stations are open daily into the evening and a few are open 24 hours a day.

Car Rentals

More than 75 agencies rent cars, Jeeps, or minimokes (small, open-air vehicles), and rates are expensive -- an average $105 a day (or $400 a week), depending on the vehicle and whether it has air-conditioning. Most firms also offer discounted three-day rates. The rental generally includes insurance, pickup and delivery service, maps, 24-hour emergency service, and unlimited mileage. Baby seats are usually available upon request.

In Barbados

Coconut Car Rentals (Bay St., Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/437-0297).

Corbins Car Rentals (Upper Collymore Rock, Bridgetown, St. Michael, PHONE:246/427-9531).

Courtesy Rent-A-Car (Grantley Adams International Airport, Christ Church, PHONE:246/418-2500).

Drive-a-Matic (Lower Carlton, St. James, PHONE:246/422-3000).

National Car Rentals (Lower Carlton, St. James, PHONE:246/426-0603).

Sunny Isle Sixt Car Rentals (Worthing, Christ Church, PHONE:246/435-7979).

Sunset Crest Car Rental (Sunset Crest, Holetown, St. James, PHONE:246/432-2222).

Requirements

To rent a car in Barbados, you must have a valid driver's license and major credit card. Most agencies won't rent to you if you're under the age of 21.

Road Conditions

Barbados has nearly 975 mi (1,570 km) of paved roads that follow the coastline and meander through the countryside. A network of highways facilitates traffic flow into and out of Bridgetown. The Adams-Barrow-Cummins (ABC) Highway bypasses Bridgetown, which saves time getting from coast to coast.

Small signs tacked to trees and poles at intersections point the way to most attractions, and local people are helpful if you get lost. Remote roads are in fairly good repair, yet few are well lighted at night -- and night falls quickly at about 6 PM year-round. Even in full daylight, the tall sugarcane fields lining both sides of the road in interior sections can make visibility difficult.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the left. Be mindful of pedestrians and occasional livestock walking on country roads. When someone flashes headlights at you at an intersection, it means "after you." Be especially careful negotiating roundabouts (traffic circles). The speed limit, in keeping with the pace of life and the narrow roads, is 30 mph in the country, 20 mph in town. Bridgetown actually has rush hours: 7-9 and 4-6. Park only in approved parking areas; downtown parking costs Bds75¢-Bds$1 per hour.

Taxis, which are not metered, operate 24 hours a day. Fares are charged according to fixed rates set by the government. Taxis will carry up to four passengers, and the fare may be shared. For short trips, the rate per mile (or part thereof) should not exceed $1.50. Drivers are courteous and knowledgeable; most will narrate a tour at an hourly rate of $20 for up to three people. Be sure to settle the price before you start off and agree on whether it's in U.S. or Barbados dollars.