All international and domestic flights arrive at the spectacular glass, steel, and marble El Prat de Llobregat (BCN) (PHONE: 93/298-3838, www.barcelona-airport.com), 14 km (9 mi) south of Barcelona.

Flying time from New York is seven hours; from London, just over two.

Carriers

Almost all flights from the United States connect in Madrid or at other European points such as London, Amsterdam, Paris, or Frankfurt; Delta flies nonstop to Barcelona from New York City and Atlanta. Flights from the United Kingdom to Spain are frequent. There are no nonstop flights to Spain from Australia or New Zealand.

Iberia runs a shuttle, the puente aereo, between Madrid and Barcelona from around 7 AM to 11 PM; planes depart hourly and more frequently in the morning and afternoon commute hours. You don't need to reserve ahead; you can buy your tickets at the airport ticket counter upon arriving. Terminal C in the Barcelona airport is used exclusively by the shuttle.Most airlines serving Spain, including Iberia, prohibit smoking on international or domestic flights.

From North America

Air Europa (PHONE: 888/238-7672).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Iberia (PHONE: 800/772-4642).

Spanair (PHONE: 888/545-5757).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/622-1015).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377).

EasyJet (PHONE: 0870/600-0000).

Go (PHONE: 0870/607-6543).

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854).

Within Spain

Air Europa (PHONE: 902/401501).

Iberia (902/400500).

Spanair (PHONE: 902/131415).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Check first to see if your hotel provides airport shuttle service; otherwise, you can high-tail it into town via train, bus, taxi, or rental car.

By Bus

The Aerobus leaves the airport for Plaça de Catalunya every 15 minutes (6 AM-11 PM) on weekdays and every 30 minutes (6:30 AM-10:30 PM) on weekends. From Plaça de Catalunya, the bus leaves for the airport every 15 minutes (5:30 AM-10 PM) on weekdays and every 30 minutes (6:30 AM-10:30 PM) on weekends. The fare is EUR3.50.

By Car

If you're driving your own car, follow signs to the Centre Ciutat and you'll enter the city along Gran Via. For the port area, follow signs for the Ronda Litoral. The journey to the center of town can take anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes depending on traffic. Peak rush hours are 7:30-9:30 in the morning, 1:30-2:30 in the afternoon, and 7-9 in the evening.

By Taxi

Cab fare from the airport into town is EUR15-EUR18.

By Train

The train's only drawback is that it's a 10- or 15-minute walk (with moving walkway) from your gate through the terminal and over the bridge. Trains leave the airport every 30 minutes between 6:12 AM and 10:13 PM, stopping at the Estació de Sants, then at the Plaça de Catalunya, later at the Arc de Triomf, and finally at Clot. Trains going to the airport begin at 6 AM from the Clot station, stopping at the Arc de Triomf at 6:05 AM, Plaça de Catalunya at 6:08 AM, and Sants at 6:13 AM. The fare is EUR2.50.

You can get to Spain by bus from London, Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Prague, and other major European cities. It is a long journey, but the buses are modern and inexpensive. Eurolines, the main carrier, connects many European cities with Barcelona, which has two main bus terminals, Estació de Sants (for long-distance and international routes) and Estació del Nord (for inter-Spain routes) Spain's major national long-haul company is Enatcar.

Bus Information

Within Spain

Enatcar (Calle Mendazábal,Madrid PHONE: 902/422-242 www.alsa.es).

Eurolines (Carrer Viriato,Barcelona PHONE: 93/490-4000 www.eurolines.com Estació del Nord, Carrer d'Ali Bei 80,Barcelona PHONE: 93/232-1092).

Bus Terminals

Estació del Nord (Carrer d'Ali Bei 80,Barcelona PHONE: 93/265-6508).

Estació de Sants (Carrer de Viriat,Barcelona PHONE: 93/490-0202).

From the U.K.

Eurolines/National Express (PHONE: 0870/580-8080 www.gobycoach.com).

Arriving in Barcelona by car from the north along the A7 autopista (freeway) or from the west along the A2 autopista, you will encounter signs for the rondes (ring roads) constructed for the 1992 Olympics. Ronda del Litoral will take you into lower Barcelona along the waterfront, while Ronda de Dalt (the upper Ronda) takes you along the edge of upper Barcelona to Horta, the Bonanova, Sarrià, and Pedralbes areas.

For the center of town, take the Ronda Litoral and look for Exit 21 (Paral.lel-Les Rambles) or 22 (Barceloneta-Via Laietana-Hospital de Mar). If you are arriving from the Pyrenees on the C1411/E-9 through the Tunel del Cadí, the Tunels de Vallvidrera will place you on the upper Via Augusta next to Sarrià, Pedralbes, and La Bonanova. The Eixample and Ciutat Vella are 10 to 15 minutes farther if traffic is fluid.

International overnight trains to Barcelona arrive from many of the leading cities of Europe, including Paris, Grenoble, Geneva, Zurich, and Milan. The trains pull into three Barcelona terminals.

The bulk of Spain's inter-city services (along with some of Barcelona's rodalies, or local train routes) are handled by the government-run railroad system -- RENFE (Red Nacional de Ferrocarriles Españoles). In addition to RENFE, the Catalan government's FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya) also provides train service, notably to the regions surrounding Barcelona.

Almost all long-distance trains arrive at and depart from Estació de Sants. En route to or from Sants, some trains stop at another station on Passeig de Gràcia at Carrer Aragó; this can be a good way to avoid the long lines that form at Sants during holidays. The Estació de França, near the port, handles certain long-distance trains within Spain and some international trains.While overnight train travel is convenient, time-efficient, and easy if you like to sleep on trains, beware: unless you have a fairly pricey compartment for two (or four), you will be packed in with strangers in a four-person compartment with windows that do not open and often suffocating heat. The air shuttle (or a scheduled flight) between Madrid and Barcelona can, if all goes well, get you door to door in under three hours for only about EUR40 more.

If you purchase a same-day round-trip ticket while in Spain, you'll get a 20% discount; if you purchase a different-day round-trip ticket, a 10% discount applies.

Train Information

Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya (FGC) (PHONE: 93/205-1515 www.fgc.es/cat).

RENFE (PHONE: 902/240202, www.renfe.es).

Estació de França (Av. Marquès de l'Argentera s/n, La Ribera).

Estació de Sants (Plaça dels Països Catalans s/n, Eixample).

From the U.K.

Train services to Spain from the United Kingdom are not as frequent, fast, or affordable as flights, and you have to change trains (and stations) in Paris. It's worth paying extra for a Talgo express or for the Puerta del Sol express to avoid having to change trains again at the Spanish border. Journey time to Paris (from London via Eurostar through the Channel Tunnel) is around three hours; from Paris to Barcelona, it's an additional seven hours. Allow at least two hours in Paris for changing trains. If you're under 26 years old, Eurotrain has excellent deals.

Information

Eurostar (PHONE: 01233/617575 or 0870/518-6186 www.eurostar.co.uk).

National Rail Enquiries (PHONE: 0845/748-4950 www.nationalrail.co.uk).

Rail Europe (PHONE: 800/942-4866; 800/274-8724; 0870/584-8848 credit-card bookings www.raileurope.com).

Banks and Offices

Banks are generally open Monday-Friday 8:30 or 9 until 2 or 2:30. Some banks occasionally open on Saturday from 8:30 or 9 until 2 or 2:30. From October to May, savings banks are also open Thursday 4:30-8. Currency exchanges at airports and train stations stay open later; you can also cash traveler's checks at El Corte Inglés department stores until 10 PM (some branches close at 9 PM or 9:30 PM.) Most government offices are open weekdays 9-2 only.

Museums and Sights

Most museums in Spain are open from 9:30 to 2 and 4 to 7 six days a week, usually every day but Monday. Schedules are subject to change, particularly between the high and low seasons, so confirm opening hours before you make plans. A few large museums, such as Barcelona's Picasso Museum, stay open all day, without a siesta.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies keep normal business hours (9-1:30 and 5-8), but every mid-size town (or city neighborhood) has a duty pharmacy that stays open 24 hours. To find out which pharmacies are open late at night or 24 hours on a given day, look on the door of any pharmacy, where the location of the duty pharmacy is posted, look in any local newspaper under "Farmacias de Guardia," or dial 010.

Shops

When planning a shopping trip, remember that almost all shops in Spain close at midday for at least three hours. The only exceptions are large supermarkets and the department-store chain El Corte Inglés. Stores are generally open from 9 or 10 to 1:30 and from 5 to 8. Most shops are closed on Sunday, but larger shops in tourist areas may stay open Sunday in summer and during the Christmas holiday.

Arriving in Spain

Visitors from countries that are not part of the European Union, age 15 and over, may enter Spain duty-free with up to 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, up to 1 liter of alcohol over 22 proof, and up to 2 liters of wine. Dogs and cats are admitted as long as they have up-to-date vaccination records from their home country.

Spain's electrical current is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. If your appliances are dual-voltage you'll need only an adapter plug. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as hair dryers. Most laptop computers operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts, so they require only an adapter.

Australia

Australian Consulate (Gran Via Carlos III 98, 9th floor, Barcelona, PHONE: 93/490-9013).

Australian Embassy (Plaza Descubridor Diegos de Ordas 3, Madrid, PHONE: 91/441-9300).

Canada

Canadian Consulate (Elisenda de Pinós, Pedralbes, Barcelona, PHONE: 93/204-2700).

Canadian Embassy (Calle Nuñez de Balboa 35, Madrid, PHONE: 91/423-3250).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate (Travessera de Gracia 64, 4th floor, Barcelona, PHONE: 93/209-0399).

New Zealand Embassy (Plaza Lealtad 2, Madrid, PHONE: 91/523-0226).

United Kingdom

U.K. Consulate (Av. Diagonal 477, Eixample, Barcelona, PHONE: 93/366-6200).

U.K. Embassy (Calle Fernando el Santo 16, Madrid, PHONE: 91/319-0200).

United States

U.S. Consulate (Passeig Reina Elisenda 23, Pedralbes, Barcelona, PHONE: 93/280-2227).

U.S. Embassy (Calle Serrano 75, Madrid, PHONE: 91/587-2200).

For assistance, dial the pan-European emergency phone number 112, which is operative in some parts of Spain but not all. Otherwise, dial the emergency numbers below for national police, local police, fire department, or medical services. On the road, there are emergency phones at frequent regular intervals on freeways (autovías) and toll highways (autopistas). They are marked S.O.S.

Ambulance (Creu Roja, PHONE: 93/300-2020).

Fire department (PHONE: 080).

Medical assistance (PHONE: 061).

Police (PHONE: 091 or 092; main police station: Via Laietana 43, Barri Gòtic, PHONE: 93/301-6666).

Tourist Attention (Guardia Urbana, Ramblas 43, La Rambla, PHONE: 93/290-3440), a service provided by the local police department, can help if you're the victim of a crime or need medical or psychological assistance. English interpreters are on hand.

Hospital

Hospital Clinic (Villarroel 170, Eixample, PHONE: 93/454-6000 or 93/454-7000; Metro: blue line to Hospital Clinic).

24-Hour Pharmacies

24-Hour Pharmacies (PHONE: 010).

The Spanish are very tolerant of foreigners and their different ways, but you should always behave with courtesy. Be respectful when visiting churches: casual dress is fine if it's not gaudy or unkempt. Spaniards do object to men going bare-chested anywhere other than the beach or poolside and generally do not look kindly on public displays of drunkenness.

Business Etiquette

Spanish office hours can be confusing to the uninitiated. Some offices stay open more or less continuously from 9 to 3, with a very short lunch break. Others open in the morning, break up the day with a long lunch break of two-three hours, then reopen at 4 or 5 until 7 or 8. Spaniards enjoy a certain notoriety for their lack of punctuality, but this has changed dramatically in recent years: you are expected to show up for meetings on time. Smart dress is the norm.

Spaniards in international fields tend to conduct business with foreigners in English. If you speak Spanish, address new colleagues with the formal usted and the corresponding verb conjugations, then follow the lead in switching to the familiar tu once a working relationship has been established.

Art Tours

The Rute del Modernisme (Moderniste Route), created by Barcelona's ajuntament (city hall), connects nine key Art Nouveau sites: Palau Güell, the Palau de la Música Catalana, the Fundació Tàpies, Casa Milà (La Pedrera), the Museu Gaudí in Parc Güell, the Museu d'Art Modern in Ciutadella, Gaudí's Sagrada Família church, the Museu de la Música in Gràcia, and the Museo de Zoologia in Ciutadella (in Domènech i Muntaner's Castell dels Tres Dragons). Guided tours, some in English, are included at Palau Güell and the Palau de la Música Catalana; at the Sagrada Família the guided tour costs extra. At Casa Milà there is one guided tour daily (6 PM weekdays, 11 AM weekends). Buy your tickets at Casa Amatller, open Monday through Saturday 10-7, Sunday 10-2. The price, EUR7, gets you 50% discounts at all nine locations.

Contact

Casa Amatller (Passeig de Gràcia 41, Eixample, PHONE: 93/488-0139).

Bus Tours

The Bus Turístic runs at 30-minute intervals (more frequently in summer) every day except Christmas and New Year's on two sightseeing routes around the city -- a northern and a southern route. The ride for either begins at Plaça de Catalunya (first bus at 9 AM), and a guide aboard announces the stops. Ticket holders can get on and off as often as they like. Tickets can be bought on the bus; at Turisme de Barcelona information offices in Plaça de Catalunya, at the Sants Railway station, and elsewhere; and at Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB) customer service centers. A day's ticket costs EUR15; a ticket valid for two days, EUR19. Both are good for both routes and provide for discounts on entry fees at attractions at the designated stops.

Julià Tours and Pullmantur run day and half-day excursions outside the city. The most popular trips are those to Montserrat and the Costa Brava resorts, the latter including a cruise to the Medes Isles.

Contacts

Bus Turístic (PHONE: 93/368-9700, www.barcelonaturisme.com).

Julià Tours (Ronda Universitat 5, Eixample, PHONE: 93/317-6454).

Pullmantur (Gran Via 645, Eixample, PHONE: 93/317-1297).

Personal Guides

Contacts

Associació Professional d'Informadors Turístics (PHONE: 93/319-8416).

Barcelona Guide Bureau (PHONE: 93/268-2422).

City Guides Barcelona (PHONE: 93/412-0674).

Walking Tours

Julià Tours and Pullmantur both lead walks around Barcelona. Tours leave from their offices, but you may be able to arrange a pickup at your hotel. Prices are EUR30 for half a day and EUR65 for a full day, including lunch.

Turisme de Barcelona offers English-language walking tours of the Gothic Quarter at 10 AM on Saturday and Sunday (from April through September, also on Wednesday and Thursday) for EUR7.50. Another itinerary, a walk through Picasso's Barcelona, takes place on Saturday and Sunday at 10:30 AM and costs EUR10, including admission to the Picasso Museum. Tours depart from the Turisme de Barcelona office.

For the best English-language walking tour of the medieval Jewish Quarter (or Gaudí's Sagrada Família), contact Dominique Blinder at Urbancultours.

Contacts

Julià Tours (Ronda Universitat 5, Eixample, PHONE: 93/317-6454).

Pullmantur (Gran Via 645, Eixample, PHONE: 93/317-1297).

Turisme de Barcelona (Pl. de Catalunya 17 bis, Eixample, PHONE: 906/301282, www.barcelonaturisme.com).

Urbancultours (www.urbancultours.com).

Sunburn and sunstroke are real risks in summertime Spain. On the hottest sunny days, even those who are not normally bothered by strong sun should cover themselves up; carry sunblock lotion; drink plenty of fluids; and limit sun time for the first few days. If you require medical attention, ask your hotel's front desk for assistance or go to the nearest public Centro de Salud (day hospital); in serious cases, you'll be referred to the regional hospital. Medical care is good in Spain, but nursing is perfunctory, as relatives are expected to stop by and look after inpatients' needs.

Spain was recently documented as having the highest number of AIDS cases in Europe. Those applying for work permits will be asked for proof of HIV-negative status.

Food and Drink

It's fine to drink the water in Spain. If you have a problem with diarrhea, ask for un antidiarreico, which is the general term for antidiarrheal medicine. Fortasec is a well-known over-the-counter brand.

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Over-the-counter remedies are available at pharmacies (farmacias). Some names will be familiar, such as aspirin (aspirina), while other medications are sold under different brand names. If you regularly take a nonprescription medicine, take a sample box or bottle with you; the Spanish pharmicist will be able to provide you with its local equivalent. You will generally be allowed to buy much more potent medicine over the counter than in the United States, such as antibiotics and strong pain killers. Pharmacists are qualified to help you decide what to take if you describe your particular ailment, so in some cases a visit to a doctor can be avoided by simply asking a good pharmacist what to do.

Although Spaniards exported their language to all Central and South America, you may be surprised to find that Spanish is not the principal language in all of Spain. The Basques speak Euskera; in Galicia, you'll hear Gallego; in Valencia, Valenciano; and in Catalonia, Catalan.

Franco outlawed all of these local languages and dialects in 1939, thinking they fomented regional extremism. With his death in the 1975, a renaissance of Catalan thought and literature began. In Catalonia today, both Spanish and Catalan are official languages. When it comes to speaking, however, Catalans prefer their regional language. Barcelona, for the most part, is bilingual, and many natives -- even the proud catalanoparlants -- opt to read their newspapers and books in mainstream Spanish.

Spanish is, fortunately, fairly easy to pick up, and your efforts to speak it will be graciously received. But you should have no trouble finding people who speak English, although you won't necessarily be able to count on the bus driver or the passerby on the street. Those who do speak English may speak the British variety, so don't be surprised if you're told to queue (line up) or take the lift (elevator) to the loo (toilet). Many guided tours offered at museums and historic sites are in Spanish; ask about the language that will be spoken before you sign up.

The postal system in Spain, called Correos, does work, but delivery times can vary widely. An airmail letter to the United States may take four days to reach its destination, or it may take two weeks. Delivery to other places worldwide is equally unpredictable. Sending letters by special delivery (urgente) will ensure speedier delivery. Post offices are usually open from 8:30 to 2:30 on weekdays, and 10 to 2 on Saturdays, though hours vary.

Barcelona's main post office, which is on Plaça Antonio López, is open all day, from 8:30 AM to 9:30 PM Monday through Saturday, and 9 to 2:30 on Sunday.

Overnight Services

When time is of the essence, or when you're sending valuable items or documents overseas, you can use a courier (mensajero). The major international agencies, such as Federal Express and UPS, have representatives in Spain; the biggest Spanish courier service is Seur. MRW is another local courier that provides express delivery worldwide.

Major Services

DHL (PHONE: 902/122424).

Federal Express (PHONE: 900/100871).

MRW (PHONE: 900/300400).

Seur (PHONE: 902/101010).

UPS (PHONE: 900/102410).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR.75 up to 20 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom and other EU countries cost EUR.50 up to 20 grams. Letters within Spain are EUR.25. Postcards carry the same rates as letters. You can buy stamps at post offices and at licensed tobacco shops.

Receiving Mail

Because mail delivery in Spain can often be slow and unreliable, it's best to have your mail sent to American Express. Mail can also be held at a Spanish post office; have it addressed to Lista de Correos (the equivalent of Poste Restante) in a town you'll be visiting. Postal addresses should include the name of the province in parentheses, e.g., Marbella (Málaga).

In the United States, call American Express (PHONE: 800/528-4800) for a list of offices overseas.

Spain is no longer a budget destination, but prices still compare slightly favorably with those elsewhere in Europe. Coffee in a bar generally costs EUR.75 (standing) or EUR.90 (seated). Beer in a bar: EUR.95 standing, EUR1 seated. Small glass of wine in a bar: around EUR1. Soft drink: EUR1-EUR1.20 a bottle. Ham-and-cheese sandwich: EUR1.80-EUR2.70. Two-kilometer (1-mile) taxi ride: EUR2.40, but the meter keeps ticking in traffic jams. Local bus or subway ride: EUR.81-EUR1.20. Movie ticket: EUR3-EUR4.80 Foreign newspaper: EUR1.80.

ATMs

Before leaving home, make sure your credit cards are programmed for ATM use in Spain. Bank or credit cards that are part of the Plus or Cirrus network will work in Spanish ATMs that are part of those networks. If you don't have one, request a PIN (Personal Identification Number) with the proper number of digits for Spain (four is usual) before leaving home in order to access money from your credit card at a foreign ATM. Request your PIN at least two to three weeks before your trip; it may need to be mailed to you.

Some ATM keypads in Spain are the reverse of those in the U.S., with "9, 8, 7" on the first row rather than "1, 2, 3." If the magnetic strip on your credit card doesn't work in an ATM, you can go into most main banks and request a cash advance via a manual transaction.

Currency

On January 1, 2002, the European monetary unit, the Euro (EUR), went into circulation in Spain. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro is also used in Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, Martinique, St. Barths, and St. Martin.

Taxes

Value-added tax (similar to sales tax) is called IVA (for Impuesto sobre el valor añadido) in Spain. It is levied on services, such as hotels and restaurants, and on consumer products. When in doubt about whether tax is included, ask, Está incluido el IVA ("ee-vah")?

The IVA rate for hotels and restaurants is 7%. Menus will generally say at the bottom whether tax is included (IVA incluido) or not (más 7% IVA). While food and basic necessities are taxed at the lowest rate, most consumer goods are taxed at 16%.

When making a purchase, ask for an IVA refund form and find out whether the merchant gives refunds -- not all stores do, nor are they required to. The minimum purchase for a refund is EUR90. Have the form stamped like any customs form by customs officials when you leave the country or, if you're visiting several European Union countries, when you leave the EU. Be ready to show customs officials what you've bought (pack purchases together, in your carry-on luggage); budget extra time for this. After you're through passport control, take the form to a refund-service counter for an on-the-spot refund, or mail it back to the store or a refund service after you arrive home.

A refund service can save you some hassle, for a fee. Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307, Nyack, NY 10960, PHONE: 800/566-9828, FAX: 845/348-1549, www.globalrefund.com) is a Europe-wide service with 130,000 affiliated stores and more than 700 refund counters -- located at every major airport and border crossing. Its refund form is called a Shopping Cheque. The service issues refunds in the form of cash, check, or credit-card adjustment, minus a processing fee. If you don't have time to wait at the refund counter, you can mail in the form instead.

Tipping

Waiters and other service staff expect to be tipped, and you can be sure that your contribution will be appreciated. On the other hand, if you experience bad or surly service, don't feel obligated to leave a tip.

Restaurant checks almost always include a service charge, which is not the same as a voluntary tip. Do not tip more than 10% of the bill, and leave less if you eat tapas or sandwiches at a bar -- just enough to round out the bill to the nearest EUR1. Tip cocktail servers EUR.30-EUR.50 a drink, depending on the bar.

Tip taxi drivers about 10% of the total fare, plus a supplement for a long ride or extra help with luggage. Note that rides from airports carry an official surcharge plus a small handling fee for each piece of luggage.

Tip hotel porters EUR.50 a bag, and the bearer of room service EUR.50. A doorman who calls a taxi for you gets EUR.50. If you stay in a hotel for more than two nights, tip the maid about EUR.50 per night. The concierge should receive a tip for any additional help he or she provides.

Tour guides should be tipped about EUR2, ushers in theaters or at bullfights EUR.15-EUR.20, barbers EUR.50, and women's hairdressers at least EUR1 for a wash and style. Rest-room attendants are tipped EUR.15.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Spain

Visitors from the United States, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the U.K. need a valid passport to enter Spain. No visa is required for U.S. passport holders for a stay of up to three months; for stays exceeding three months, please contact the Consulate of Spain nearest you. Australians require a visa for stays of over a month. You should obtain it from the Spanish Embassy before you leave.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

There are public rest rooms in some locations, and in some cities, such as Barcelona, you'll have to use small coin-operated booths. But the best option is to use the facilities at a bar or cafeteria, although it is customary to order a drink if you plan to do so. The cleanliness of the establishment is a good indication of the conditions of their toilets. Gas stations have rest rooms, but you sometimes have to request the key to use them.

Petty crime is a huge problem in Spain's most popular tourist destinations. The most frequent offenses are pickpocketing (particularly in Madrid and Barcelona) and theft from cars (all over the country). Never, ever leave anything valuable in a parked car, no matter how friendly the area feels, how quickly you'll return, or how invisible the item seems once you lock it in the trunk. Thieves can spot rental cars a mile away, and they work very efficiently. In airports, laptop computers are choice prey.

When walking the streets, particularly in large cities, carry your cash (and/or traveler's checks, ATM, or credit cards) in a money belt that is securely tied around your waist and hidden under your clothes. Men should carry their wallet in the front pocket; women who need to carry purses should strap them across the front of their bodies. Leave the rest of your valuables in the safe at your hotel.

On the beach, in cafés and restaurants (particularly in the well-touristed areas), and in Internet centers, always keep your belongings on your lap or tied to your person in some way. Additionally, be cautious of any odd or unnecessary human contact, verbal or physical, whether it's a tap on the shoulder, someone spilling their drink at your table, and so on. Thieves often work in twos, so while one is attracting your attention, the other could be swiping your wallet.

Local Scams

As they say in Spanish, ¡ojo! (literally, "eye!," meaning "careful!") when you roam Barcelona's Rambla and nearby streets, an area that's the scene of scams directed at tourists. Avoid the raucous "find the hidden ball" games, usually played on makeshift cardboard tables and presided over by a conman. You'll choose correctly and "win" at the beginning, but the moment you start handing over betting money, it becomes impossible to guess the right shell, and you can say good-bye to your cash. The folks "cheering on" the player are all accomplices. Also watch out for a flock of gitanes (gypsies), usually women, who come at tourists in a swarm of supposed good will, urging you to buy their bright flowers. As you're picking flowers, they're picking your pocket. Or, after the tumultuous transaction, you'll find that you didn't receive the proper change.

Women in Spain

The traditional Spanish custom of the piropo (a shouted "compliment" to women walking down the street) is fast disappearing, though women traveling alone may still encounter it on occasion. The piropo is harmless, if annoying, and should simply be ignored.

The country code for Spain is 34. The area code for Barcelona is 93.

All area codes begin with a 9. To call within Spain -- even locally -- dial the area code first. If you're dialing from outside the country, drop the 9. Numbers preceded by a 900 code are toll-free; those starting with a 6 are going to a cellular phone. Note that calls to cell phones are significantly more expensive than calls to regular phones.

Spain's phone system is perfectly efficient. Direct dialing is the norm. The main operator is Telefónica. Note that only cell phones conforming to the European GSM standard will work in Spain.

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in Spain, dial 1003. International operators, who generally speak English, are at 025.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

To make an international call yourself, dial 00, then the country code, then the area code and number.

International calls are awkward from coin-operated pay phones because of the many coins needed; and they can be expensive from hotels, as the hotel often adds a hefty surcharge. Your best bet is to use a public phone that accepts phone cards or go to the local telephone office, the locutorio: every town has one, and major cities have several. You converse in a quiet, private booth, and you're charged according to the meter. If the call ends up costing around EUR3 or more, you can usually pay with Visa or MasterCard.

In Barcelona you can phone overseas from the office at Carrer de Fontanella 4, off Plaça de Catalunya.

Long-Distance Calls

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator can't comply, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

General Information

AT&T (PHONE: 800/222-0300).

MCI WorldCom (PHONE: 800/444-4444).

Sprint (PHONE: 800/793-1153).

Access Codes in Spain

AT&T (PHONE: 900/990011).

MCI (PHONE: 900/990014).

Sprint (PHONE: 900/990013).

Phone Cards

To use a newer pay phone you need a special phone card (tarjeta telefónica), which you can buy at any tobacco shop or newsstand, in various denominations. Some such phones also accept credit cards, but phone cards are more reliable.

Public Phones

You'll find pay phones in individual booths, in special telephone offices (locutorios), and in many bars and restaurants. Most have a digital readout so you can see your money ticking away. If you're calling with coins, you need at least EUR.15 to call locally, EUR.45 to call another province. Simply insert the coins and wait for a dial tone. (With older models, you line coins up in a groove on top of the dial and they drop down as needed.) Note that rates are reduced on the weekends and after 8 PM Monday-Friday.

Turisme de Barcelona has two main locations, both open Monday through Saturday 9-9 and Sunday 10-2: Plaça de Catalunya, in the center of town; and Plaça Sant Jaume, in the Gothic Quarter. There are smaller facilities at the Sants train station, open daily 8-8; the Palau de la Virreina, open Monday through Saturday 9-9 and Sunday 10-2; and the Palau de Congressos, open daily 10-8 during trade fairs and conventions only. For general information in English, dial tel. 010 between 8 AM and 10 PM any day but Sunday.

El Prat Airport has an office with information on Catalonia and the rest of Spain, open Monday through Saturday 9:30-8 and Sunday 9:30-3. The tourist office in Palau Robert, open Monday through Saturday 10-7, specializes in provincial Catalonia.

From June to mid-September, tourist information aides patrol the Gothic Quarter and Ramblas area 9 AM-9 PM. They travel in pairs and are recognizable by their uniforms of red shirts, white trousers or skirts, and badges.

Tourist Offices

In Barcelona

Plaça de Catalunya (Plaça de Catalunya 17 bis, Eixample, PHONE: 93/304-3421, www.barcelonaturisme.com).

Plaça Sant Jaume (Plaça Sant Jaume 1, Barri Gòtic, PHONE: 93/304-3421).

Palau de Congressos (Av. María Cristina s/n, Eixample).

Palau de la Virreina (Rambla 99, La Rambla).

Estació de Sants (Plaça dels Països Catalans s/n, Eixample, PHONE: 93/491-4431).

Palau Robert (Passeig de Gràcia 107, at Diagonal, Eixample, PHONE: 93/238-4000).

El Prat Airport (PHONE: 93/478-4704).

At Home

The Tourist Office of Spain (and its Web site) provides valuable practical information about visiting the country.

Chicago (Water Tower Pl., 845 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 915-East, Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 312/642-1992).

Los Angeles (8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, PHONE: 213/658-7188).

Miami (1221 Brickell Ave., Suite 1850, Miami, FL 33131, PHONE: 305/358-1992).

New York (666 5th Ave., 35th floor, New York, NY 10103, PHONE: 212/265-8822).

Canada (2 Bloor St. W, Suite 3402, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/961-3131).

United Kingdom (22-23 Manchester Sq., London W1M 5AP, England, PHONE: 0207/486-8077).

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811, 2201 C St. NW, Washington, DC 20520, PHONE: 202/647-5225 interactive hot line; 888/407-4747, www.travel.state.gov); enclose a business-size SASE.

May and October are the optimal times to come to Spain, as the weather is generally warm and dry. May gives you more hours of daylight, while October offers a chance to enjoy the harvest season, which is especially colorful in the wine regions.

In April you can see some of Spain's most spectacular fiestas, particularly Semana Santa (Holy Week).

Spain is the number-one destination for European travelers, so if you want to avoid crowds, come before June or after September. Crowds and prices increase in the summer, especially along the coasts, as the Mediterranean is usually too cold for swimming the rest of the year, and beach season on the Atlantic coast is shorter still. Spaniards vacation in August, and their migration to the beach causes huge traffic jams on August 1 and 31. Major cities are relaxed and empty for the duration; small shops and some restaurants shut down for the entire month, but museums remain open.

Summers in Spain are hot: temperatures frequently hit 100°F (38°C), and air-conditioning is not widespread. Try to limit summer sightseeing to the morning hours. That said, warm summer nights are among Spain's quiet pleasures.

Winters in Spain are mild and rainy along the coasts. Elsewhere, winter blows bitterly cold. Snow is infrequent except in the mountains.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Barcelona:

January 43-55°F (6-13°C); February 45-57°F (7-14°C); March 48-61°F (9-16°C); April 52-64°F (11-18°C); May 57-70°F (14-21°C); June 64-77°F (18-25°C); July 70-82°F (21-28°C); August 70-82°F (21-28°C); September 66-77°F (19-25°C); October 59-70°F (15-21°C); November 52-61°F (11-16°C); December 46-55°F (8-13°C).

Holidays

Spain's national holidays include January 1, January 6 (Epiphany), Good Friday, Easter, May 1 (May Day), August 15 (Assumption), October 12 (National Day), November 1 (All Saints'), December 6 (Constitution), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), and December 25.

In addition, each region, city, and town has its own holidays honoring political events and patron saints. Barcelona celebrates April 23 (St. George), September 11 (Catalonia Day), and September 24 (Mercy).

If a public holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, remember that many businesses also close on the nearest Monday or Friday for a long weekend called a puente (bridge). If a major holiday falls on a Sunday, businesses close on Monday.

Modern Barcelona, above the Plaça de Catalunya, is built on a grid system. The old town, however, from the Plaça de Catalunya to the port, is a labyrinth of narrow streets, so you'll need a good street map. Most sightseeing can be done on foot -- you won't have any choice in the part of the old town known as the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter -- but you'll have to use the Metro, buses, or taxis to get from one sightseeing area to another. You'll probably want to avoid driving in the city. Maps showing bus and Metro routes are available free from booths in the Plaça de Catalunya.

For more information, contact Public transportation (93/412-0000).

The Barcelona Card, sold at city tourist offices, offers free travel on the bus and Metro and up to a 50% discount on entry to Barcelona's main sights and attractions. You can buy this card for periods of one to five days; cost is EUR16-EUR26.

For more information, contact Turisme de Barcelona (PHONE: 93/368-9700 www.barcelonaturisme.com).

Cruising Barcelona on wheels is a good way to see a lot, save on transport, and get good exercise in the bargain. For rentals try the following companies:

Bike Rentals

BJ Motor (Vallespir 20, Sants, PHONE: 93/491-2293).

Escenic (Marina 22, La Ribera, PHONE: 93/221-1666).

Filicletos (Passeig Picasso 40, La Ribera, PHONE: 93/319-7885).

Icaria Esport (Icaria 180, Port Olímpic, PHONE: 93/221-1778).

Rodats Inici (Passeig Picasso 22, La Ribera, PHONE: 93/319-7797).

Un Menys (Esparteria 3, La Ribera, PHONE: 93/268-2105) -- "One Less," in Catalan, meaning one less car on the streets of Barcelona -- organizes increasingly popular outings that tack drinks, dinner, and dancing onto a gentle bike ride for a total price of about EUR30.

Golondrina (PHONE: 93/442-3106) harbor boats make short trips from the Portal de la Pau, near the Columbus Monument. The fare is EUR7 for a 90-minute ride out past the beaches, half that for a 30-minute harbor ride. There is also a longer excursion in a glass-bottomed catamaran that parallels the coast up to the Platja del Bogatell east of Barcelona's Olympic Port. Depending on the weather, the catamarans (EUR9 per person) leave every hour on the half hour from 11:30 to 5:30 (6:30 from Holy Week through September). Regular Golondrina departures, from Holy Week through September, daily 11-7; fall and winter, weekends and holidays only, 11-5; closed mid-December through early January.

City buses run daily from 5:30 AM to 11:30 PM. The fare is EUR1. For multiple journeys purchase a Targeta T1 (valid for bus or Metro), which buys you 10 rides for EUR5.75. Route maps are displayed at bus stops. Note that those with a red band always stop at a central square -- Catalunya, Universitat, or Urquinaona -- and blue indicates a night bus. Barcelona's 30 night buses generally run until about 4:30 AM, though some stop as early as 3:30 AM and others continue until as late as 5:20 AM. Schedules are available at bus and Metro stations or at www.bcn.es/guia/welcomea.htm.

The Montjuïc Funicular is a cog railroad that runs from the junction of Avinguda Paral.lel and Nou de la Rambla to the Miramar station on Montjuïc (Metro: Paral.lel). It operates weekends and holidays 11 AM-8 PM in winter, daily 11 AM-9:30 PM in summer; the fare is EUR1.75. A telefèric then takes you up to Montjuïc Castle. In winter the telefèric runs weekends and holidays 11-2:45 and 4-7:30; in summer, daily 11:30-9. The fare is EUR3.

A Transbordador Aeri Harbor Cable Car runs between Miramar and Montjuïc across the harbor to Torre de Jaume I, on Barcelona's moll (quay), and on to Torre de Sant Sebastià, at the end of Passeig Joan de Borbó in Barceloneta. You can board at either stage. The fare is EUR7 round-trip, and the car runs October through June, weekdays noon-5:45, weekends noon-6:15, and July through September, daily 11-9.

To reach the summit of Tibidabo, take the Metro to Avinguda de Tibidabo, then the Tramvía Blau (EUR2 one-way) to Peu del Funicular, and finally the Tibidabo Funicular (EUR3 one-way) from there to the Tibidabo fairground. It runs every 30 minutes, 7:05 AM-9:35 PM ascending, 7:25 AM-9:55 PM descending.

Barcelona's main cross-town traffic arteries are the Diagonal (so called because it runs diagonally to the meridian or longitudinal line through the city) and the midtown speedways, Carrer d'Aragó, and Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, both cutting northeast-southwest through the heart of town. Passeig de Gràcia, which becomes Gran de Gràcia above the Diagonal, runs all the way from Plaça de Catalunya up to Plaça Lesseps, but the main up-and-down streets, for motorists, are Balmes, Muntaner, Aribau, and Comtes d'Urgell.

Getting around Barcelona by car is generally more trouble than it's worth unless there is some compelling reason, such as a broken leg, for doing so. Even then (maybe even especially), a taxi would be preferable. Although the rondas (ring roads) make entering and exiting the city easy (unless it's rush hour, in which case traffic comes to a halt), between parking, navigating, drunk-driving patrols, and the general wear and tear of driving, the subway, taxis, buses, and walking are your best bets in Barcelona.

Car Rentals

Note that National Car Rental is affiliated with the Spanish agency Atesa, or Avis. Europcar has good weekend deals. All agencies have a wide range of models, but cars with automatic transmission are less common. Vanguard rents motorcycles as well as cars.

Rates in Barcelona begin at the equivalents of U.S.$55 a day and $240 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include the tax on car rentals, which is 16%.

Major Agencies

Avis (Casanova 209,Eixample PHONE: 93/209-9533 Aragó 235,Eixample PHONE: 93/487-8754). Europcar (Viladomat 214,Eixample PHONE: 93/439-8403 Estació de Sants PHONE: 93/491-4822). Hertz (Estació de Sants,Eixample PHONE: 93/490-8662 Tuset 10,Eixample PHONE: 93/217-3248).

Local Agencies

Atesa (El Prat Airport,El Prat del Llobregat PHONE: 93/298-3433 Muntaner 45,Eixample PHONE: 93/323-0266). Vanguard (Londres 31,Eixample PHONE: 93/439-3880).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

The rental agencies Hertz and Avis have 24-hour breakdown service.

If you belong to an auto club (AAA, CAA, or AA), you can get emergency assistance from the Spanish counterpart, the Real Asociación de Carreteras (RACC) (José Abascal 10, Madrid, PHONE: 900/200093).

There are emergency telephones on all autopistas (toll highways), every 2 km (1 mi), with service stations generally found every 40 km (25 mi).

Gasoline

Gas stations are plentiful, and most of those on major routes and in big cities are open 24 hours. On less-traveled routes, gas stations are usually open 7 AM-11 PM. If a gas station is closed, it's required by law that it post the address and directions to the nearest open station.

Most stations are self-service, though prices are the same as those at full-service stations. You punch in the amount of gas you want (in Euros, not in liters), unhook the nozzle, pump the gas, and then pay. At night, however, you must pay before you fill up. Most pumps offer a choice of gas, including leaded, unleaded, and diesel, so be careful to pick the right one for your car. All newer cars in Spain use gasolina sin plomo (unleaded gas), which is available in two grades, 95 and 98 octane. Super, regular 97-octane leaded gas, is gradually being phased out.

Parking

Parking can be very difficult in Spanish cities, especially Barcelona. Parking tickets (for fines) range between EUR30 and EUR90. Barcelona's street parking system runs from 9 AM to 2 PM and 4 PM to 8 PM weekdays and all day Saturday. Park in the specially marked blue spaces (about EUR1.80 per hour), with tickets valid for two hours, but renewable. There are also underground garages (called "Parking" and symbolized by a white P on a blue background). On the streets, do not park where the pavement edge is yellow or where there is a private entry (gual or vado).

Towing is common in Barcelona. If your car is towed, you call a special number and pay EUR90 to get it back. On top of that you will be presented with a fine, which you can pay at any police station at your convenience.

Towing Contact Information (PHONE: 93/428-4595).

Requirements

Your own driver's license is valid in Spain, but you may want to get an International Driver's Permit for extra assurance, as having one may save you a problem with local authorities. Permits are available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association, or, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. Note that while anyone over 18 with a valid license can drive in Spain, some rental agencies will not rent cars to drivers under 21.

Road Conditions

Barcelona's rush hours, when the rondas tend to plug up and movement is generally slow, take place from 8:30 to 9:30 AM, from 2 to 3 PM, and, intermittently, from 5 to 9 PM.

For travel outside of Barcelona, the freeways to Girona, Figueres, Sitges, Tarragona, and Lleida are surprisingly fast. Routine cruising speed on Spanish freeways is 140 kph (84 mph) or more. If you drive at the official speed limit of 120 kph (72 mph) you seriously risk high-speed rear-ending. Girona, 97 km (58 mi) away, is a 45-minute shot. The French border is an hour away. Perpignan is, at 188 km (113 mi), an hour and 20 minutes.

Spain's highway system includes some 6,000 km (3,600 mi) of beautifully maintained superhighways. Still, you'll find some stretches of major national highways that are only two lanes wide, where traffic often backs up behind slow, heavy trucks. Tolls are steep on the autopistas, but as a result they are often less crowded than the free highways. If you spring for the autopistas, you'll find that many of the rest stops are nicely landscaped and have cafeterias with good food.

Rules of the Road

Spaniards drive on the right. Horns are banned in cities, but that doesn't keep people from blasting away. Children under 10 may not ride in the front seat, and seat belts are compulsory. Speed limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in cities; 100 kph (62 mph) on N roads; 120 kph (74 mph) on the autopistas (toll highways) or autovías (freeways); and, unless otherwise signposted, 90 kph (56 mph) on other roads, such as carreteras nacionales (main roads) and carreteras comarcales (secondary roads). Many Spaniards drive much faster than the speed limit, however, so beware of the left lane. Right turns on red are not permitted. In the cities, people are more often stopped for petty rule-breaking such as crossing a solid line or doing a U-turn than for speeding. However, Spanish highway police are especially vigilant regarding speeding and illegal passing; fines start at EUR90 and, in the case of foreign drivers, police are empowered to demand payment on the spot. Beware of unclear directions on road signs. Indications are often confusing or insufficient.

On freeway ramps, expect to come to a full stop at the red yield triangle at the end of the on-ramp and wait for a break in the traffic. Remember that motorists in a traffic circle or roundabout have the right of way.

Drunk driving tests are becoming more prevalent. It is illegal to drive with alcohol levels that exceed 0.5% BAC or 0.25 on a breath test; this is about three medium-size glasses of wine or three beers for a man of average height and weight, but best to be cautious. Fines vary from one region of Spain to another.

The Metro is the fastest, cheapest, and easiest way to get around Barcelona. You pay a flat fare of EUR1 no matter how far you travel, but it's more economical to buy a Targeta T10 (valid for the Metro and Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya trains [FGC] trains, the Tramvía Blau [Blue Trolley], and the Montjuïc Funicular), which costs EUR6 for 10 rides. Lines 2, 3, and 5 run weekdays 5 AM-midnight. Lines 1 and 4 close at 11. On Friday, Saturday, and holiday evenings all trains run until 2 AM. The FGC trains run until 12:30 on weekdays and 2:15 AM on weekends and eves of holidays. Sunday trains run on weekday schedules.

When switching from the Metro line to the FGC (or vice versa), merely insert the card through the slot and the turnstile will open without charging you for a second ride provided less than an hour has elapsed since you punched in initially. Maps showing bus and Metro routes are available free from booths in the Plaça de Catalunya.

For more information, contact Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (PHONE: 93/292-2820, www.emt-amb.com).

Taxis are black and yellow and show a green rooftop light when available for hire. The meter starts at EUR1.10 and rises in increments of centimos. There are supplements for luggage, night travel, Sundays and holidays, rides from a station or to the airport, and for trips to or from the bullring or a football match. There are cab stands all over town, and you can also hail cabs on the street.

You can call for a cab 24 hours a day:

Taxi companies (PHONE: 93/387-1000, 93/490-2222, or 93/357-7755).