The British Virgin Islands (BVI) consist of about 50 islands, islets, and cays. Most are remarkably hilly, and all but Anegada are volcanic, having exploded from the depths of the sea some 25 million years ago. The BVI are serene, seductive, spectacularly beautiful, and still remarkably laid-back.
Several factors have enabled the BVI to retain the qualities of yesteryear's Caribbean: no building can rise higher than the surrounding palms, and there are no direct flights from the mainland United States, so the tourism tide is held back. Many visitors travel here by water, aboard their own ketches and yawls or on one of the ferries that cross the waters between St. Thomas and Tortola. Such a passage is a fine prelude to a stay in these unhurried havens.
Tortola, about 10 square mi (26 square km), is the largest and most populated of the islands; Virgin Gorda, with 8 square mi (21 square km), ranks second. The islands scattered around them include Jost Van Dyke, Great Camanoe, Norman, Peter, Salt, Cooper, Ginger, Dead Chest, and Anegada. Tortola has the most hotels, restaurants, and shops. Virgin Gorda offers a few restaurants, shops, and resorts (many are self-contained). Jost Van Dyke is a major charter-boat anchorage; little bars line the beach at Great Harbour, but there are few places to stay. The other islands are either uninhabited or have only a single hotel or resort -- or even just a restaurant. Many of these, such as Peter Island, offer excellent anchorages, and their bays and harbors are popular with overnighting boaters.
In 1493 Christopher Columbus was the first European visitor. Impressed by the number of islands dotting the horizon, he named them Las Once Mil Virgines -- the 11,000 Virgins -- in honor of the 11,000 virgin companions of St. Ursula, martyred in the 4th century. In the ensuing years, the Spaniards passed through, fruitlessly seeking gold. Then came pirates and buccaneers, who found the islands' hidden coves and treacherous reefs ideal bases from which to prey on passing galleons crammed with gold, silver, and spices. In the 17th century the colorful cutthroats were replaced by the Dutch, who, in turn, were sent packing by the British. It was the British who established a plantation economy and for the next 150 years developed the sugar industry. When slavery was abolished in 1838, the plantation economy faltered, and the majority of the white population left for Europe.
The islands are still politically tied to Britain. The governor, appointed by the queen of England, has limited powers, and these are concentrated on external affairs and local security. The local legislative council, with representatives from nine districts, administers all other matters. General elections are held every four years, and the political mood is serene.
