Cancún International Airport (CUN) (Cancún-Puerto Morelos Hwy./Hwy. 307, Km 9.5, PHONE: 998/886-00-29) is 16 km (9 mi) southwest of the heart of Cancún and 10 km (6 mi) from the southernmost point of the Hotel Zone. There are three terminals. The main terminal is the largest building and handles international departures as well as domestic arrivals and departures. Next door to the main terminal is a smaller building where all regular international flights arrive. A separate terminal, 1 km (½ mi) south of the main terminal, handles all international charter flights.

Cancún is 3½ hours from New York and Chicago, 4½ hours from Los Angeles, 3 hours from Dallas, 11¾ hours from London, and 18 hours from Sydney. Add another 1-4 hours if you change planes at one of the hub airports and have a long layover.

Carriers

Almost all flights to Cancún have stopovers at hub airports (Houston, Dallas, Miami, Chicago, Los Angeles, or Atlanta), where you must change planes and transfer luggage. Some flights go to Mexico City, where you must pass through customs before transferring to a domestic flight to Cancún. This applies to air travel from the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Australia, and New Zealand.

Major Airlines

Aeroméxico (PHONE: 998/884-1097 downtown; 998/886-0003 airport; 800/237-6639 in the U.S.) flies nonstop to Cancún from Houston, Miami, and New York.

American (PHONE: 998/883-4460 airport; 800/433-7300 in the U.S.) has nonstop service from Dallas and Miami.

Continental (PHONE: 998/886-0006 airport; 800/231-0856 in the U.S.) offers daily direct service from Houston.

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Mexicana (PHONE: 998/887-4444 downtown; 998/886-0068 airport; 800/531-3585 in the U.S.) offers nonstop flights are from Los Angeles, Miami, and New York.

Northwest (PHONE: 800/447-4747).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377, www.britishairways.com) has nonstop flights from London to Mexico City and Cancún.

The following airlines fly to Mexico with brief stops en route:

Air France (PHONE: 0181/742-6600, www.airfrance.com), via Paris.

American (PHONE: 020/8572-5555; 0845/778-4789 outside London, www.aa.com), from London via Chicago, Dallas, or Miami.

Continental (PHONE: 01293/776-464, www.continental.com), from London via Houston and Newark, and from Birmingham and Manchester via Newark.

Delta (PHONE: 800/414-767, www.delta.com), via Atlanta.

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854, www.iberia.com), via Madrid.

KLM (PHONE: 08705/074-074, www.klm.com), via Amsterdam.

Lufthansa (PHONE: 0845/7737-747, www.lufthansa.com), via Frankfurt.

United (PHONE: 0845/8444-777, www.united.com), via Chicago or Washington, D.C.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Taxi or Van

The public-transport options are taxis, or colectivos (vans); buses are not allowed into the airport due to an agreement with the taxi union. A counter at the airport exit sells colectivo and taxi tickets; prices range from $15 to $40, depending on the destination. Getting back to the airport for your departure is less expensive; taxi rates to the airport range from about $10 to $23. Hotels post current rates. Be sure to agree on a price before getting into the taxi.

First-class and second-class buses arrive at the downtown bus terminal (Avs. Tulum and Uxmal, Sm 23, PHONE: 998/887-1149) from all over Mexico.

ADO, Mayab, and Playa Express are the main companies servicing the coast. Buses leave every 20 minutes for Puerto Morelos and Playa del Carmen. Check the bus schedule for departure times for Tulum, Chetumal, Cobá, Valladolid, Chichén Itzá, and Mérida. For more information, contact:

ADO (Autobuses del Oriente; PHONE: 800/702-8000 or 998/884-5542; www.adogl.com.mx).

Playa Express (PHONE: 998/884-0994).

Bring something to eat on long trips in case you don't like the restaurant where the bus stops; bring toilet tissue; and wear a sweater, as the air-conditioning is often set on high. Most buses play videos or TV continually until midnight, so if you are bothered by noise bring earplugs. Smoking is prohibited on many Mexican buses, though the rule is occasionally ignored.

Bus travel in the Yucatán, as throughout Mexico, is inexpensive by U.S. standards, with rates averaging $2-$5 per hour depending on the level of luxury (or not). Schedules are posted at bus stations; the bus leaves more or less around the listed time.

Most bus tickets, including first-class or especial and second-class, can be reserved in advance in person at ticket offices. ADO (Autobuses del Oriente) allows you to reserve tickets 48 hours in advance over the Internet.

Route 180 runs from Matamoros at the Texas border through Campeche, Mérida, Valladolid, and into Cancún. The trip from Texas can take up to three days. Route 307 runs south from Cancún through Puerto Morelos, Tulum, and Chetumal, then into Belize. Gas stations are located only in the major cities and towns, so keep your tank full. Route 307 has three PEMEX stations between Cancún and Playa del Carmen. When approaching any village, town, or city, watch out for the numerous speed bumps -- hitting them at top speed can ruin your transmission and tires.

There are two absolutely essential points to remember about driving in Mexico. First and foremost is to carry Mexican auto insurance.

Point No. 2: if you enter Mexico with a car, you must leave with it. In recent years, the high rate of U.S. vehicles being sold illegally in Mexico has caused the Mexican government to enact stringent regulations for bringing a car into the country -- at great inconvenience to motoring American tourists. In order to drive into the country, you must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a birth certificate or passport; a credit card (AE, DC, MC, or V); a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit-card owner must be one and the same -- that is, if your spouse's name is on the title of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed, leased, rental, or company cars, you must bring a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company.

When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay a $20 charge on your credit card, you'll receive a car permit and a sticker to put on your vehicle, all valid for up to six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border prior to their expiration date; otherwise you could incur high fines.

One alternative to going through this hassle when you cross is to have your paperwork done in advance at a branch of Sanborn's Mexican Insurance; look in the Yellow Pages for an office in almost every town on the U.S.-Mexico border. You'll still have to go through some of the procedures at the border, but all your paperwork will be in order, and Sanborn's express window will ensure that you get through relatively quickly. There's a $10 charge for this service. The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face.

If you bring the car into the country you must be in the vehicle at all times when it is driven. You cannot lend it to another person.

For day trips and local sightseeing, consider engaging a car and driver (who often acts as a guide) for a day; this can be a hassle-free, more economical way to travel than renting a car and driving yourself. Hotel desks will know which taxi companies to call, and you can negotiate a price with the driver.

Your driver's license may not be recognized outside your home country. International driving permits (IDPs) are available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

In well-traveled Cancún, businesses generally are open during posted hours.

Banks and Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9-4. Some banks open on Saturday morning. Most banks will exchange money only until noon. Most businesses are open weekdays 9-2 and 4-7.

Gas Stations

Most gas stations are open 24 hours.

Museums and Sights

Most museums throughout Mexico are closed on Monday and open 8-5 the rest of the week. But it's best to call ahead or ask at your hotel. Hours of sights and attractions in this book are denoted by a clock icon,.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies in Cancún are usually open 8 AM-10 PM and stay open through the afternoon.

Shops

Stores in tCancún are usually open 10-10 Monday through Sunday.

Arriving in Mexico

Entering Mexico, you may bring in personal items needed for your stay, along with: 400 cigarettes or 50 cigars (if you are over 18); one photographic camera and one nonprofessional film or video camera and 12 rolls of film for each; up to 20 cassettes or CDs; medicine for personal use; one personal laptop computer; camera equipment; sports equipment for personal use (golf clubs, scuba gear, a bicycle); and gift items not exceeding a combined value of $300. You are not allowed to bring meat, vegetables, plants, fruit, or flowers into Mexico.

Contact the Mexican Consulate for current restrictions and requirements for bringing pets into the country. 2401 W. 6th St., Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 231/351-6800, FAX: 213/389-9249, www.consulmex-la.com; 27 E. 39th St., New York, NY 10016, PHONE: 212/217-6400, FAX: 212/217-6493, www.consulmexny.com.

Electrical converters are not necessary because Mexico operates on the 60-cycle, 120-volt system; however, many outlets have not been updated to accommodate three-prong and polarized plugs (those with one larger prong), so bring an adapter. When in Mexico purchase a surge protector for valuable electronic equipment such as computers and stereos.

The consulates in Cancún operate with skeleton staffs. Should you have an emergency when the consulate is closed, contact the embassy in Mexico City.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco, 11560 Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5531-5225 information; 55/5905-407-1698 emergencies, FAX: 55/5203-8431, www.dfat.gov.au).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Calle Schiller 529, Col. Bosques de Chapultepec, 11560 Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5724-7900, FAX: 55/5724-7980, www.canada.org.mx).

The Canadian Consulate (Plaza Caracol 11, 3rd floor, Hotel Zone, Cancún, PHONE: 998/883-3360; 800/706-2900 emergencies, FAX: 998/883-3232) is open daily 9-5.

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (José Luis Lagrange, Col. Polanco, 11510 Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5283-9460, FAX: 55/5283-9480, www.nzemb.org).

United Kingdom

U.K. Embassy (Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc, 06500 Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5207-2089, 55/5207-2593, or 55/5207-2449, FAX: 55/5242-8517, www.embajadabritanica.com.mx).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Cuauhtémoc, 06500 Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5080-2000, FAX: 55/5511-9980, www.usembassy-mexico.gov).

The U.S. Consulate (Plaza Caracol, 3rd floor, Hotel Zone, Cancún, PHONE: 998/883-0272) is open weekdays 9-1.

Emergencies (PHONE: 060).

Fire Department (PHONE: 998/884-12-02).

Highway Police (PHONE: 998/884-24-45).

Immigration Office (PHONE: 998/884-1749).

Municipal Police (PHONE: 998/884-19-13).

Red Cross (Avs. Xcaret and Labná, Sm 21, PHONE: 998/884-16-16).

Traffic Police (PHONE: 998/884-07-10).

Air Ambulance America of Mexico (PHONE: 800/222-3564).

Air Evac (PHONE: 800/421-6111), in the United States.

Procuraduría de Protección al Turista (Attorney General for the Protection of Tourists; PHONE: 55/5625-8153 in Mexico City; 800/482-9832 from the U.S.).

It's helpful, albeit daunting, to know ahead of time that you're not protected by the laws of your native land once you're on Mexican soil. However, if you get into a scrape with the law, you can call the Citizens' Emergency Center (PHONE: 202/647-5226), in the United States.

In Mexico, you can also call the 24-hour English-speaking hot line of the Mexican Ministry of Tourism (SECTUR; PHONE: 800/903-9200 or 800/482-9832). The hot line can provide immediate assistance as well as general, nonemergency guidance.

Doctors and Dentists

In case of medical emergency, the safest bet is the American Medical Centre (Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 8, Hotel Zone, PHONE: 998/883-1001; 998/883-0113; 998/887-1455 pager PIN 10844), run by Dr. Michael McFall with his wife, Lisa McFall, from the United States.

Pharmacies

Cancún has many pharmacies. Among those that offer delivery service are:

Farmacia Cancún (Av. Tulum 17, Sm 22, PHONE: 998/884-1283).

Paris (Av. Yaxchilán 32, Sm 3, PHONE: 998/884-3005) delivers around the clock.

Roxsanna's (Plaza Flamingo, Kukulcán Blvd., Km 11.5, Hotel Zone, PHONE: 998/885-1351; 998/885-0860 delivery service).

In the United States, being direct, efficient, and succinct are highly valued traits. In Mexico, where communication tends to be more diplomatic and subtle, this style is often perceived as rude and aggressive. People will be far less helpful if you lose your temper and/or complain loudly, as such behavior is considered impolite. Remember that things move at a much slower rate here. There is no stigma attached to being late. Try to accept this pace gracefully. Learning basic phrases such as por favor (please) and gracias (thank you) in Spanish will make a big difference.

Business Etiquette

Business etiquette is much more formal and traditional in Mexico than in the United States. Personal relationships always come first, so developing rapport and trust is essential. A handshake is an appropriate greeting, along with a friendly inquiry about family members. With established clients, do not be surprised if you are welcomed with a kiss on the cheek or full hug with a pat on the back. Mexicans love business cards -- be sure to present yours in any business situation. Without a business card you may have trouble being taken seriously. In public, always be respectful of colleagues and keep confrontations private. Meetings may or may not start on time, so remain patient with delays. When invited to dinner at the home of a customer or business associate, it's not necessary to bring a gift.

In the Yucatán most tour guides found outside the more popular ruins are not official guides. Some are professionals, but others make it up as they go along (which can be highly entertaining). Official guides will be wearing a name tag and identification issued by INAH, Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (National Institute of Anthropology and History). These guides are excellent and can teach you about the architecture and history of the ruins. At the smaller ruins, guides are usually part of the research or maintenance teams and can give you an excellent tour. Costs vary. At smaller sites, usually a $5 to $10 tip will suffice. At the larger ruins the fees can run as high as $30. Those charging more are scam artists. The larger ruins have the more aggressive guides. Turn them down with a very firm No, gracias, and if they persist, lose them at the entrance gate.

Boat Tours

Day cruises to Isla Mujeres are popular. They generally include snorkeling, shopping downtown, lunching at an open-bar buffet, and listening to music or lounging at Playa Norte. Plenty of tour operators offer such trips:

Capitán Hook (El Embarcadero, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 4.5, Hotel Zone, PHONE: 998/883-3736) runs an Isla Mujeres day tour that departs at 10 AM from El Embarcadero Marina on Boulevard Kukulcán and returns at 5 PM; it costs about $55.

Dolphin Discovery (Playa Langosta, Local 16, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 3, Hotel Zone PHONE: 998/883-0779 or 998/883-0780) sails daily from Playas Langosta and Tortugas to the company's dock on Isla Mujeres; its program includes an instruction video, a 30-minute swim session with the dolphins, and time to explore the island. Tickets start at $75.

Pirate's Night (Playa Langosta Dock, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 5.5, Hotel Zone, PHONE: 998/849-4621) offers a trip to Treasure Island on Isla Mujeres aboard a sailboat that is decked out like a pirate ship. Prices start at $35.

Turimex Travel (Plaza America, Av. Coba 5, Suite B-7, Sm 4, PHONE: 998/887-4038, FAX: 998/887-1936, www.turimex.com/cuba.html) offers a three-day, two-night cruise from Cancún to Havana for $189.

Ecotours

Although many claim to have ecological tours, few outfits actually deliver truly ecological experiences in authentic jungle settings. An exception is Reserva Ecológica El Edén (Box 770 Cancún, Quintana Roo 77500, 998/880-5032, www.ucr.edu/pril/peten/images/el_eden/Home.html), established by one of Mexico's leading naturalists, Arturo Gómez-Pompa, and his nephew, Marco Lazcano-Barrero. The 500,000-acre reserve, 48 km (30 mi) northwest of Cancún, is dedicated to research for biological conservation in Mexico. It offers excursions for people interested in experiencing the reserve's wetlands, mangrove swamps, sand dunes, savannas, and tropical forests. "Eco-scientific" tours include bird-watching, animal-tracking, stargazing, crocodile ecology, and cenote and archaeological explorations. Prices include transportation between Cancún and the reserve, one to two nights' accommodation at La Savanna Research Station, meals, cocktails, guided nature walks, and all tours. Two-day, one-night excursions start at $235 per person, three-day, two-nights at $315.

Plane Tours

Promotora Caribena (Plaza Centro, Av. Nader 8, Sm 5, PHONE: 998/884-9073, www.promocaribe.com) flies one-day tours between Cancún and Guatemala City, continuing on to Flores and the ruins at Tikal. A round-trip fare of $267 includes all ground transfers, departure taxes, entrance to ruins, a tour guide, and lunch.

Medical clinics in all the main tourist areas have English-speaking personnel. Many of the doctors in Cancún have studied in Miami and speak English fluently. You will pay much higher prices than average for the services of English-speaking doctors or for clinics catering to tourists.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

In the Yucatán, the major health risk is posed by the contamination of drinking water, fresh fruit, and vegetables by fecal matter, which causes the intestinal ailment known as turista, or traveler's diarrhea. Bad shellfish can also be a culprit. To prevent such unpleasant interruptions to your vacation, watch what you eat and always wash your hands before eating. Stay away from ice, uncooked food, seafood that may not have been refrigerated, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes. When ordering cold drinks at untouristed establishments, skip the ice -- ask for your beverage sin hielo. (You can usually identify ice made commercially from purified water by its uniform shape and the hole in the center.) Hotels with water-purification systems post signs to that effect in the rooms. For mild cases of turista, try Pepto-Bismol. Drink plenty of purified water or tea; chamomile tea (te de manzanilla, which is readily available in restaurants throughout Mexico) is a good folk remedy for soothing the stomach. Try the BRAT diet (bananas, rice, applesauce, and dry toast). In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a Gatorade drink or a salt-sugar solution. For children there is a special rehydrating formula available at all pharmacies. If you suspect food poisoning, see a local doctor immediately. If diarrhea persists for more than two days, see one of the local doctors. Take Lomotil or Imodium (loperamide), an antidiarrheal agent that dulls or eliminates abdominal cramps, if you must travel. Otherwise, it's often better to let the illness run its course.

Hangovers, caused by overindulging in Mexican beer and tequila, can also be mistaken for turista. If you have been drinking, give yourself one day to recover before assuming you have turista.

Over-the-Counter Remedies

U.S. brands of acetaminophen, ibuprofen, aspirin, and other popular medications are readily available in Mexico (as is Pepto-Bismol). Most pharmacies have a blue book that lists generic and Mexican drug names. Get the generic name of your prescription drugs before your trip. Sunscreen is available at large supermarkets, pharmacies, and department stores. Prices are slightly higher than in the United States.

Pests and Other Hazards

It's best to be cautious and go indoors at dusk (called the "mosquito hour" by locals). An excellent brand of repellente de insectos (insect repellent) called Autan is readily available; do not use it on children under age 2. If you want to bring a mosquito repellent from home, make sure it has at least 10% DEET or it won't be effective. If you're hiking in the jungle, wear repellent and long pants and sleeves; if you're camping in the jungle use a mosquito net and invest in a package of mosquito coils (sold in most stores). Another local flying pest is the deer fly, which resembles a common household fly with yellow stripes. Some people swell up after being bitten, but taking an antihistamine can help. Scorpions also live in the region; their sting is similar to a bee sting. They are not poisonous but can cause strong reactions in small children. Those who are allergic to bee stings should go to the hospital. Again, antihistamines help. Clean all cuts carefully, as the rate of infection is much higher here.

Other hazards to travelers in Mexico are sunburn and heat exhaustion. The sun is strong here; it takes fewer than 20 minutes to get a serious sunburn. Avoid the sun between 11 AM and 3 PM all year round. Wear a hat and use sunscreen. You should drink more fluid than you do at home -- Mexico is probably hotter than what you're used to and you will perspire more. Rest in the afternoons and stay out of the sun to avoid heat exhaustion. The first signs of dehydration and heat exhaustion are dizziness, extreme irritability, and fatigue.

Shots and Medications

According to the U.S. government's National Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) there is a limited risk of malaria and dengue fever in certain rural areas of the Yucatán Peninsula, especially the states of Campeche and Quintana Roo. Travelers in mostly urban or easily accessible areas need not worry. However, if you plan to visit remote regions or stay for more than six weeks, check with the CDC's International Travelers Hotline. In areas where mosquito-borne diseases like malaria and dengue are prevalent, use mosquito nets, wear clothing that covers the body, apply repellent containing DEET, and use spray for flying insects in living and sleeping areas. You might consider taking antimalarial pills, but the side effects are quite strong and the current strain of Mexican malaria can be cured with the right medication. There is no vaccine to combat dengue, although it is not a life-threatening disease.

Spanish is the official language of Mexico, although Indian languages are spoken by approximately 20% of the population, many of whom speak no Spanish at all. In Cancún, English is understood by most people employed in tourism; at the very least, shopkeepers know numbers in English for bargaining purposes. Mexicans welcome even the most halting attempts to use their language.

The Spanish that most U.S. and Canadian citizens learn in high school is based on Castilian Spanish, which is different from Latin American Spanish. In terms of grammar, Mexican Spanish ignores the vosotros form of the second person plural, using the more formal ustedes in its place. As for pronunciation, the lisped Castilian "c" or "z" is dismissed in Mexico as a sign of affectation. The most obvious differences are in vocabulary: Mexican Spanish has thousands of indigenous words and uses ¿mande? instead of ¿cómo? (excuse me?). Words or phrases that are harmless or commonplace in one Spanish-speaking country can take on salacious or otherwise offensive meanings in another. Unless you are lucky enough to be briefed on these nuances by a native coach, the only way to learn is by trial and error. Mexicans are very forgiving of errors and will appreciate your efforts.

The post office (correos; Av. Sunyaxchén at Av. Xel-há, Sm 26, PHONE: 998/884-1418) is open weekdays 8-5 and Saturday 9-1. A courier service also has offices in the post office building.

Postal service to and from Mexico is extremely slow and may take four weeks or more. Avoid sending or receiving parcels -- and never send checks or money through the mail. Invariably they are stolen.

It costs a minimum of 6 pesos to mail a postcard or letter weighing fewer than 20 grams to the United States or Canada; the cost to Great Britain is 8 pesos.

There's a Western Union (Av. Sunyaxchén at Av. Xel-há, Sm 26 PHONE: 998/884-1529) office in the post office building.

Overnight Services

Despite the promises, overnight courier service is rare in Mexico. It's not the fault of the courier service, which may indeed have the package there overnight. Delays occur at customs. Depending on the time of year, all courier packages are opened and inspected. This can slow everything down. You can expect one- to three-day service in Cancún and two- to four-day service elsewhere.

Major services include:

AeroMexpress (PHONE: 998/886-0123).

DHL (PHONE: 998/887-1906).

Estafeta (PHONE: 998/884-1167).

Fedex (PHONE: 998/887-4003).

Receiving Mail

You can receive mail at the post office if it's marked "Lista de Correos, Cancún, 77500, Quintana Roo, Mexico." To use this service, you must first register with the local post office where you wish to receive your mail. Mail is held at post offices for 10 days, and a list of recipients is posted daily. Keep in mind that the mail service in Mexico is very slow and can take up to eight weeks to deliver mail.

If you have an American Express card, you can have mail sent to you at the American Express (Av. Tulum 208, at Calle Agua, Sm 4, PHONE: 998/881-4020) Cancún office for a small fee. The office is open weekdays 9-6 and Saturday 9-1.

Cancún is one of the most expensive destinations in Mexico. For obvious reasons, if you stay at international chain hotels and eat at restaurants designed with tourists in mind (especially hotel restaurants), you may not find the Yucatán Peninsula such a bargain.

ATMs

All have automatic teller machines that dispense Mexican money. The ATMs at the smaller banks are often out of order, but the larger banks generally have working machines. If your PIN (personal identification number) has more than four digits, you may have trouble using the ATMs. Also, don't delay in taking your card out of the machine. ATMs are quick to eat up cards, and it takes a visit to the bank and a number of forms to get them back. Cirrus and Plus are the most commonly found networks in Mexico.

For cash advances, plan to use your Visa and MasterCard, as many Mexican ATMs don't accept American Express. The ATMs at Banamex, one of the oldest and perhaps the strongest of the nationwide banks, tend to be the most reliable and generally give you an excellent exchange rate. Bancomer is another bank with many cajero automatico (ATM) locations, but they generally provide only cash withdrawals (rather than credit-card advances). The Serfín banks have reliable ATMs that accept credit cards as well as Plus and Cirrus bank cards.

Banks include:

Banamex (Downtown: Av. Tulum 19, next to City Hall, Sm 1, PHONE: 998/884-6403; Hotel Zone: Plaza Terramar, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 37, PHONE: 998/883-3100).

Banca Serfin (Downtown: Av. Cobá at Av. Tulum, Sm 3, PHONE: 998/884-4850).

BBVA Bancomer (Downtown: Av. Tulum 20, Sm 3, PHONE: 998/884-3288; Hotel Zone: Plaza El Parián, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 9.5, next to the convention center, PHONE: 998/883-0802).

Banco del Sureste (Downtown: Avs. Yaxchilán and Sunyaxchén, Sm 24, PHONE: 998/881-4991).

Bital (Downtown: Av. Tulum 15, Sm 4, PHONE: 998/881-4103; Hotel Zone: Plaza Caracol, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 8.5, PHONE: 998/883-4652).

Santander Mexicano (Downtown: Av. Tulum 173, Sm 3, PHONE: 998/884-0629).

Scotiabank Inverlat (Downtown: Av. Tulum 26, Sm 3, PHONE: 998/884-1333).

Currency

Pesos come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500. Coins come in denominations of 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 pesos and 50, 20 and 10 centavos. Some denominations of bills and coins are very similar, so check carefully.

U.S. dollar bills, but not coins, are widely accepted in the Yucatán Peninsula, particularly in Cancún. Many hotels, shops, and market vendors, as well as virtually all hotel service personnel, take them, too. Dollar bills are particularly welcome tips.

Exchanging Money

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

Generally, banks in Cancún are open weekdays 9-5, with money-exchange desks open 9-1:30. Downtown locations are along Avenida Tulum; some of the larger banks have branches in the Hotel Zone as well. All have automatic teller machines that dispense Mexican money. If your transactions require a teller, go early to avoid long lines.

Banamex and Bital both have offices downtown and in the Hotel Zone and can exchange or wire money. Other banks include Banca Serfin, Banco del Sureste, Bancomer, Scotiabank Inverlat, and Santander Mexicano.

Bank rates are regulated by the federal government and are therefore invariable, while casas de cambio have slightly more variable rates. Exchange houses in the airports and in areas with heavy tourist traffic tend to have the worst rates, often considerably lower than the banks. Some hotels also exchange money, but for providing you with this convenience they help themselves to a bigger commission than banks.

When changing money, count your bills before leaving the bank, and don't accept any partially torn, ink-marked, or taped-together bills; they will not be accepted anywhere. Also, many shop and restaurant owners are unable to make change for large bills. Enough of these encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (small bills) when you exchange money.

Taxes

Airport Taxes

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to airport and the current currency conversion rate; for example, in Cancún the tax is US$20-US$25. This tax is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Hotels

Hotels in the state of Quintana Roo charge a 12% lodging tax.

Value-Added Tax (VAT)

Mexico has a value-added tax (VAT), or IVA (impuesto de valor agregado), of 15% (10% along the Cancún-Chetumal corridor). Many establishments already include the IVA in the quoted price. Occasionally (and illegally) it may be waived for cash purchases.

Tipping

When tipping in Mexico, remember that the minimum wage is the equivalent of $3 a day and that the vast majority of workers in the tourist industry live barely above the poverty line. However, there are Mexicans who think in dollars and know, for example, that in the United States porters are tipped about $2 a bag. Many of them expect the peso equivalent from foreigners and may complain if they feel they deserve more -- you and your conscience must decide. Following are some guidelines. Naturally, larger tips are always welcome.

Porters and bellhops at airports and at moderate and inexpensive hotels: $1 per bag.

Porters at expensive hotels: $2 per person.

Maids: $1 per night (all hotels).

Waiters: 10%-15% of the bill, depending on service (make sure a 10%-15% service charge hasn't already been added to the bill, although this practice is more common in resorts).

Taxi drivers: Tipping is necessary only if the driver helps with your bags -- 5 pesos to 10 pesos should be sufficient, depending on the extent of the help.

Tour guides and drivers: at least $1 per half day, minimum.

Gas-station attendants: 3 pesos to 5 pesos; if they check the oil, tires, etc., tip more.

Parking attendants and theater ushers: 5 pesos to 10 pesos. Some restaurants and theaters charge for valet-parking service; it's still customary to tip the attendant at least 10 pesos.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Mexico

Citizens of the United States and Canada need only a valid piece of identification (passport, certified copy of a birth certificate, or a voter registration card) for stays of 180 days.

British citizens need only a valid passport, and residents of Australia and New Zealand require a multiple-entry visa to the United States in addition to a valid passport.

Mexico has instituted a $17 visitor fee that applies to all visitors -- except those entering by sea at Mexican ports who stay less than 72 hours, and those entering by land who do not stray past the 26- to 30-km (16- to 18-mi) checkpoint into the country's interior.

If you are flying into the state of Quintana Roo you will be issued a 30-day tourist visa in high season and a 60- to 90-day tourist visa at all other times. Your entry fee is included in the price of your airline ticket.

If you drive into Mexico, you are given a 30- to 180-day tourist visa depending on the mood of the official. Ask for 180 days up front if that's what you want.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Cancún has U.S.-style facilities with clean flush toilets, toilet paper, soap, and running water. Some public places, like bus stations, charge 1 or 2 pesos to use the facility, but toilet paper is included in the fee. Because the Yucatán Peninsula is actually a limestone shelf, the whole area operates on a septic system that can't handle toilet paper. Standard procedure is to place the paper in a basket by the toilet. It's always a good idea to carry some tissue or toilet paper with you.

When visiting the Yucatán Peninsula, even in such resort areas as Cancún, use common sense. Wear a money belt, make use of hotel safes when available, and carry your own baggage whenever possible unless you are checking into a hotel. Put jewelry and other valuables in the hotel safe when you go on sightseeing excursions. Leave expensive jewelry at home, since it often entices thieves and will mark you as a "rico turista" who can afford to be overcharged.

When traveling with all your money, be sure to distribute your cash and any valuables between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for your money pouch once in public. If you carry a purse, choose one with a zipper and a thick strap that you can drape across your body; adjust the length so that the purse sits in front of you at or above hip level. Fortunately purse snatchers, pickpockets, and muggers are rare in the area. Theft usually occurs when bags or purses are left unattended.

Reporting a crime to the police is often a frustrating experience unless you speak excellent Spanish and have a great deal of patience.

Women in the Yucatán Peninsula

A woman traveling alone will be the subject of much curiosity, since traditional Mexican women do not venture out unless accompanied by family members or friends. Violent crimes against women are rare here, but you should still be cautious. Part of the machismo culture is being flirtatious and showing off in front of compadres, and lone women are likely to be subjected to catcalls, although this is less true in the Yucatán than in other parts of Mexico. While annoying, it is essentially harmless. The best way to get rid of unwanted attention is to simply ignore the advances. Avoid direct eye contact with men on the streets -- it invites further acquaintance. It's best not to enter into a discussion with harassers, even if you speak Spanish. When the suitor is persistent say "no" to whatever is said, walk briskly, and leave immediately for a safe place, such as a nearby store. Dressing conservatively may help; clothing that seems innocuous to you, such as brief tops or Bermuda shorts, may be inappropriate in more conservative rural areas. Never go topless on the beach unless it is a recognized nude beach with lots of other people.

Mexico has implemented a national numbering program that uses a 10-digit dialing plan. Only 10-digit calls can be connected throughout the country. Two-digit regional codes now precede the old eight-digit numbers for Mexico City (55), Guadalajara (33), and Monterrey (81). To call Mexico City from within Mexico, you must still dial 01, then the new regional code (55) followed by the old eight-digit number. From outside the country, you now dial the country code (52) followed by the 10-digit number. In other areas in Mexico, eight-digit numbers will drop their first number and be preceded by new three-digit regional codes. To convert any old number into a 10-digit number, use the converter on www.sprint.com/mexico/mexicodialplanchange.

Directory & Operator Information

Throughout Mexico, you can dial 040 for information.

International Calls

The country code for Mexico is 52. When dialing a Mexico number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

When calling direct to the United States or Canada, dial 001 before the area code and phone number (the country code for the United States and Canada is 1). When calling Europe, Latin America, or Japan, dial 00 before the country and city codes. (The country for Australia is 61; it's 64 for New Zealand and 44 for the United Kingdom.)

International phone calls can be made from many hotels, but excessive taxes and surcharges -- on the order of 60% to 70% -- usually apply. It's better to buy a phone card to use in one of the many TELMEX phones. Other types of phones charge exorbitant rates.

Long-Distance Calls

For long-distance calls within Mexico, dial 01, then the area code and the local number.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/288-2872 or 800/462-4240).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/674-7000). Sprint International Access (PHONE: 800/877-8000).

Public Phones

Public telephones are operated by TELMEX and are found in every village no matter how small. These phone accept prepaid phone cards, called Ladatel cards, sold in blocks of 30, 50, 100, and 200 pesos (about $3, $5, $10, and $20, respectively) at newsstands and pharmacies. Many pay phones accept only these cards, and coin-only pay phones are usually broken. To use a Ladatel card, simply insert it in the slot of the phone, dial 001 (for calls to the States and Canada) or 01 (for long-distance calls in Mexico), followed by the area code and number you're trying to reach. Credit is deleted from the card as you use it, and your balance is displayed on the phone's small screen.

To place a collect or person-to-person international call, first dial 09 and wait (sometimes a very long time) for the bilingual long-distance operator to pick up. Then give the operator the number you want to call and your name or card number, as appropriate.

Collect calls can also sometimes be placed from casetas de larga distancia, a telephone service usually operated out of a store, for a fee; look for the phone symbol on the door. Casetas may cost more to use than pay phones, but you have a better chance of immediate success. To make a direct long-distance call from a caseta, tell the person on duty the number you'd like to call, and he or she will give you a rate and dial for you. Casetas generally charge 50¢-$1.50 to place a collect call (some charge by the minute); it's usually better to call por cobrar (collect) from a pay phone.

For local calls, the 8 of Cancún's 998 area code must be dialed first.

An alternative to the phone card is the caseta de larga distancia -- the long-distance telephone office. There are casetas in Plaza Kukulcán, Plaza Mayafair, and Plaza Caracol and one at the downtown bus terminal. These places have specially designed booths where you take your call after the number has been dialed by a clerk. A service fee of $3.50-$5 is added on top of the steep long-distance charge. The booths do, however, offer more privacy and comfort than many public-phone booths.

Tourist Offices

In Cancún

State Tourism Information Center (Av. Tulum 26, Sm 5, PHONE: 998/884-8073).

State Tourism Office -- Quintana Roo (SECTUR; Government Palace, Av. Tulum, Sm 1, PHONE: 998/881-9000; 800/903-9200 toll free in Mexico).

At Home

In the U.S.: Mexican Government Tourist Office (MGTO; PHONE: 800/446-3942; 21 E. 63rd St., 3rd fl., New York, NY 10021, PHONE: 212/821-0314, FAX: 212/821-0367; 300 N. Michigan Ave., 4th fl., Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/606-9252, FAX: 312/606-9012; 2401 W. 6th St., 5th fl., Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 213/351-20675, FAX: 213/351-2074; 10103 Fondren St., Suite 555, Houston, TX 77042, PHONE: 713/772-2581, FAX: 713/772-6058); 1200 NW 78th St., Miami, FL 33126, PHONE: 305/718-4098, FAX: 305/718-4091).

In Canada: Mexican Government Tourist Office (MGTO; 1 Pl. Ville Marie, Suite 1510, Montréal, Québec H3B 2B5, PHONE: 514/871-1052, FAX: 514/871-3825; 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/925-0704, FAX: 416/925-6061; 999 W. Hastings St., Suite 1610, Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 2WC, PHONE: 604/669-2845, FAX: 604/669-3498).

In the U.K.: Mexican Government Tourist Office (MGTO; 41 Trinity Square, Wakefield House, London EC3N 4DJ, PHONE: 207/488-9392 or 207/265-0705, FAX: 207/265-0704).

High season along the Mexican Caribbean runs from mid-December through the week after Easter. The most popular vacation times are Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week leading up to Easter) and the week from Christmas to New Year's. Most hotels are booked well in advance for these holiday periods, when prices are at their highest and armies of travelers swarm popular attractions. Resorts popular with college students (i.e., any place with a beach) tend to fill up in the summer months and during spring-break season (generally March through April).

Off-season price changes are considerable at the beach resorts. The rainy season isn't a bad time to visit if you don't mind the afternoon showers and the sometimes reduced tourist attentions. On the coast, hurricane season is September-October. To avoid crowds, and high prices, the best times to go are October and March through May.

From November through March, winter temperatures hover around 80°F. Occasional winter storms can bring blustery skies and high winds, but it is generally sunny. During the early spring months (April-May) there is a period of intense heat that tapers off in June. The hottest months, when temperatures reach up to 110°F start mid-July and last until the end of September when the rainy season starts. The rainy season lasts until mid-November. Officially the tropical storm/hurricane season starts in June but usually doesn't hit the area until mid-September. Inland regions tend to be 10 to 15° warmer than the coast, which is perfect in winter but can be quite uncomfortable in the spring and summer months.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Cancún:

January 66-84°F (19-29°C); February 68-85°F (20-29°C); March 69-88°F (21-31°C); April 71-88°F (22-31°C); May 73-91°F (23-33°C); June 75-92°F (24-33°C); July 73-91°F (23-33°C); August 75-91°F (24-33°C); September 75-87°F (24-31°C); October 73-87°F (23-31°C); November 71-86°F (22-30°C); December 66-84°F (19-29°C).

Holidays

The lively celebration of holidays in Mexico interrupts most daily business, including banks, government offices, and many shops and services, so plan your trip accordingly: New Year's Day; February 5, Constitution Day; May 5, Anniversary of the Battle of Puebla; September 1, the State of the Union Address; September 16, Independence Day; October 12, Day of the Race; November 1, Day of the Dead; November 20, Revolution Day; December 12, Feast of Our Lady of Guadaloupe, and Christmas Day.

Banks and government offices close during Holy Week (the Sunday before Easter until Easter Sunday), especially the Thursday and Friday before Easter Sunday. Some private offices close from Christmas to New Year's Day; government offices usually have reduced hours and staff.

Motorized transportation of some sort is necessary, as Cancún is somewhat spread out. However, public bus service is good, and taxis are relatively inexpensive.

The Mexican method of naming streets can be exasperatingly arbitrary, so be patient when searching for street addresses. Streets in the centers of many colonial cities (those built by the Spanish) are laid out in a grid surrounding the zócalo (main square) and often change names on different sides of the square. Other streets simply acquire a new name after a certain number of blocks. Numbered streets are usually designated norte/sur (north/south) or oriente/poniente (east/west) on either side of a central avenue. Three of these are abbreviated: Nte., Ote., and Pte. Sur is spelled out.

In many cities, streets that have proper names change names when they cross some other street -- and only a map will show where one begins and the other ends. Blocks are often labeled numerically, according to distance from a chosen starting point, as in "la Calle de Pachuca," "2a Calle de Pachuca," etc. Many addresses have "s/n" for sin número (no number) after the street name. This is common in small towns where there aren't many buildings on a block. A carretera is a main highway.

Abbreviations used in addresses include the following: Av. (avenida, or avenue); Calz. (calzada, or road); Fracc. (fraccionamiento, or housing estate); and Int. (interior, which is the same in English). "Sm" stands for Super Manzana (manzana alone means block), or neighborhood; each usually has its own park or square. Super Manzanas in Cancún and in other cities and towns are labeled with an Sm number (Sm 23, Sm 25, etc.). The streets in Super Manzanas are horseshoe shaped with a park in the middle. Traffic enters from one end and leaves from the other. The street name is shown on each side with an arrow indicating which way the traffic should flow.

Addresses in Mexico are written with the street name first, followed by the street number. A five-digit código postal (postal code) precedes, rather than follows, the name of the city. Apartado Postal, abbreviated as Apdo. Postal or A.P., means post-office box.

Bicycling in Mexico is a rough-and-ready proposition. Most roads lack shoulders, and drivers are not used to accommodating cyclists. Bikes are especially useful for travel off the beaten track. In Yucatán, where bikes are the primary form of transportation for locals, every small town has a bike-repair shop. Be sure to carry plenty of water and everything you might need to repair your bike. Pack extra patch kits; shards of glass often litter the roads. If you can take your bike apart and fold it up, buses will allow you to store it in the cargo space.

Your hotel can direct you to local rental agents. You may get a new mountain bike, but it is more likely that you'll get an ordinary bicycle, nothing glamorous or high-tech. Rentals start at about $30 per day. Helmets are not widely worn or available.

There are no bicycle maps published in Mexico, but road maps created by PEMEX and Guía Roji are available at papelerías (stationery stores), bookstores, newspaper stands, and department stores in Mexico.

From Playa Linda, Plaza Caracol, and Playa Tortuga on Cancún, you can take a shuttle boat to the main dock at Isla Mujeres. Municipal ferries carry vehicles and passengers between Cancún's Punta Sam and Isla's dock.

Aquabus (PHONE: 998/883-3155 or 998/883-5649), a water-taxi service in the Hotel Zone, travels from the hotels to various restaurants and shops; a one-way fare is $3, a day pass is $15, and a week pass is $35.

Public buses run between the Hotel Zone and downtown from 6 AM to midnight; the cost is 5 pesos. There are designated bus stops -- look for blue signs with white buses in the middle -- but you can also flag down drivers along Boulevard Kukulcán. The service is frequent and quite reliable. Take Ruta 8 (Route 8) to reach Puerto Juárez and Punta Sam for the ferries to Isla Mujeres. Take Ruta 1 (Route 1) to and from the Hotel Zone. Buses from the Zone do not go into downtown Cancún but will drop you off anywhere along Avenida Tulum, from where you can catch a connecting bus that takes you into the city. Taking the bus can save you a considerable amount of money on taxis, particularly if you are staying in the Hotel Zone.

Driving any kind of vehicle in Cancún is not for the faint of heart. Traffic moves at a breakneck speed; adding to the danger are the many one-way streets, traffic circles (glorietas), sporadically working traffic lights, ill-placed topes (speed bumps), numerous pedestrians, and large potholes. Be sure to observe speed limits in the Hotel Zone and downtown. The traffic police are quite vigilant and eager to hand out tickets. In addition, car travel becomes expensive, as it entails tips for valet parking as well as gasoline and rather costly rental rates.

Although driving in Cancún is not recommended, you might want a car to explore the surrounding areas on the peninsula. The roads are excellent within a 100-km (62-mi) radius.

Before setting out on any car trip, check your vehicle's fuel, oil, fluids, tires, and lights. Gas stations and mechanics can be hard to find, especially in more remote areas. Consult a map and have your route in mind as you drive. Be aware that there is no formal driver's education in Mexico. This makes for many bad drivers on the roads who think nothing of tailgating, speeding, and weaving in and out of traffic. Drive defensively and keep your cool. When stopped for traffic or at a red light, always leave sufficient room between your car and the one ahead so you can maneuver to safety if necessary.

Car Rentals

An economy car with no air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage begins at $50 a day or about $300 a week in Cancún. Count on about $10 a day more with air-conditioning and automatic transmission. This does not include tax, which is 10% in Cancún. The most common and least-expensive brand of car here is the Volkswagen Beetle.

Cars are available at Cancún International Airport or from any of a dozen agencies in town. Most rental cars are subcompacts and Jeeps; air-conditioned cars with automatic transmissions should be reserved in advance (though bear in mind that some smaller car-rental places have only standards). In addition to the rental agencies, the Car Rental Association (PHONE: 998/887-3109 or 998/884-7569) can help you arrange a rental.

In Cancún

Avis (five locations; airport, PHONE: 998/886-0222).

Econorent (Avs. Bonampak and Cobá, Sm 4, PHONE: 998/887-6487).

Executive (Av. Yaxchilán 160, Sm 20, PHONE: 998/884-2899; 998/886-0065 Cancún airport; www.executive.com.mx).

Hertz (nine locations; airport, PHONE: 998/884-1326).

Localiza Rent a Car (five locations; Av. La Costa 128, Sm 30, PHONE: 998/887-3109, www.localizarentacar.com).

Monaco (PHONE: 998/884-7843 in Cancún, www.monacorentacar.com).

National (seven locations; airport, PHONE: 998/886-0152).

Thrifty (five locations; airport, PHONE: 998/886-0333).

Zipp Rental Cars (Baccará hotel, Blvd. Kukulcán, Km 11.5, Hotel Zone, PHONE: 998/883-2077).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

If you plan to drive in Mexico, you must carry Mexican auto insurance, which you can purchase near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance at the border to cover your estimated trip. It's sold by the day, and if your trip is shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a prorated refund for the unused time upon application after you exit the country.

If you rent a car once you've arrived, the insurance will likely be included in the cost of your rental car. Be sure that you have been provided with proof of such insurance; if you drive without it, you are not only liable for damages, but you're also breaking the law. If you are in a car accident and you don't have insurance, you may be placed in jail until you are proven innocent. If anyone is injured, you will remain in jail until you make retribution to all injured parties and their families. Mexican laws favor nationals.

Insurance companies include:

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (223 Via de San Ysidro, San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 619/428-3583).

Oscar Padilla (120 Willow Rd., San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 800/258-8600).

Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (2009 S. 10th St., McAllen, TX 78503, PHONE: 800/222-0158 or 956/686-0711).

Requirements

In Mexico your own driver's license is acceptable, but an International Driver's Permit (IDP) is a good idea. An international permit is valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license and is universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities. It's available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. You must also carry Mexican auto insurance, which you can purchase near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side.

Road Conditions

The road system in the Yucatán Peninsula is extensive and generally in good repair. The autopista, or carretera de cuota, a four-lane toll highway between Cancún and Mérida, was completed in 1993. It runs roughly parallel to Route 180 and cuts driving time between Cancún and Mérida -- otherwise about 4½ hours -- by about 1 hour. Tolls between Mérida and Cancún can run as high as $24, and the stretches between highway exits are long. Be careful when driving on this road, as it retains the heat from the sun and can make your tires blow if they have low pressure or worn threads.

Many secondary roads are in bad condition -- unpaved, unmarked, and full of potholes. If you must take one of these roads, the best course is to allow plenty of daylight hours and never travel at night. Slow down when approaching towns and villages -- which you are forced to do by the topes (speed bumps) -- because small children and animals are everywhere. Children selling oranges, nuts, or other food will almost certainly approach your car. Some people feel that it's best not to buy from them, reasoning that if the children can make money this way, they will not go to school. Others choose to buy from them on the theory that they would probably go to school if they could afford it and need the meager profits to survive. Judge for yourself.

Emergency Services

The Mexican Tourism Ministry operates a fleet of some 350 pickup trucks, known as Angeles Verdes, or the Green Angels (PHONE: 55/5250-8221; 55/5250-4637; 55/5250-8555 Ext. 314; 800/903-9200 Ministry of Tourism hot line), to render assistance to motorists on the major highways. You can call the Green Angels directly or call the Ministry of Tourism's hot line and they will dispatch them. The bilingual drivers provide mechanical help, first aid, radio-telephone communication, basic supplies and small parts, towing, and tourist information. Services are free, and spare parts, fuel, and lubricants are provided at cost. Tips are always appreciated.

The Green Angels patrol fixed sections of the major highways twice daily 8 AM to dusk, later on holiday weekends. If your car breaks down, pull as far as possible off the road, lift the hood, hail a passing vehicle, and ask the driver to notify the patrol. Most bus and truck drivers will be quite helpful. Do not accept rides from strangers. If you witness an accident, do not stop to help but instead find the nearest official.

Gasoline

PEMEX, Mexico's government-owned petroleum monopoly, franchises all gas stations, so prices throughout the Yucatán are the same. Prices tend to be about 30% higher than those in the United States; some stations in Mexico accept U.S. dollars and credit cards. Unleaded fuel, known as Magna Premio and Magna Sin (lower octane), is available at most PEMEX stations. There are no self-service stations in Mexico. When you have your tank filled, ask for a specific amount in pesos to avoid being overcharged. Check to make sure that the attendant has set the meter back to zero and that the price is shown. Watch the attendant check the oil as well -- to make sure you actually need it -- and watch while he pours it into your car. Never pay before the gas is pumped, even if the attendant asks you to. Always tip your attendant a few pesos. Finally, keep your gas tank full, because gas stations are not plentiful in this area. If you run out of gas in a small village and there's no gas station for miles, ask if there is a local store that sells gas from containers.

Parking

Always park your car in a parking lot, or at least in a populated area. Never leave anything of value in an unattended car. There is usually a parking attendant available who will watch your car for a few pesos. Sometimes there are attendants who will wash your car and keep an eye on it for about $2.

Illegally parked cars are either towed or have wheel blocks placed on the tires, which can require a trip to the traffic-police headquarters for payment of a fine.

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you should receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. Read this booklet in order to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your country.

Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers. One kilometer is approximately 6/10 mi. In small towns, observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph). To make a left turn on the highway, move over to the right shoulder of the road, turn your left blinker on, wait for all the traffic to pass you, and then make your turn. Be aware that drunk driving is not a crime in Mexico. Do not drive late at night even on good roads.

If you are stopped for speeding or other traffic violations, the police officer will say he wants to take your license or license plates to hold until you pay a fine at the local police station. This is only a ploy that involves a time-wasting trip to the station. What he really wants is to have you pay the "fine" on the spot. This is actually a small bribe, called a mordida (literally, "a bite"); police salaries are quite low in Mexico and this is how many officers support themselves. If you are in a hurry, pay the fine, which may be as little as $10 to $20. If you decide to dispute the charge, do so with a smile (getting angry only makes things worse) and say that you'd like to give the fine to the police captain. The officer is likely to let you go rather than go to the station.

If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in daytime, slow down: it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. One-way streets are common. One-way traffic is indicated by an arrow; two-way, by a double-pointed arrow. A circle with a diagonal line superimposed on the letter E (for estacionamiento) means "no parking." Other road signs follow the now-widespread system of international symbols, a copy of which will usually be provided when you rent a car in Mexico.

Seat belts are now required by law throughout Mexico.

Taxi rides within the Hotel Zone cost $5-$7; between the Hotel Zone and downtown, $8 and up; and to the ferries at Punta Sam or Puerto Juárez, $15-$20 or more. Prices depend on distance, your negotiating skills, and whether you pick up the taxi in front of a hotel or decide to save a few dollars by going onto the avenue to hail one yourself (look for green city cabs). Most hotels list rates at the door; confirm the price with your driver before you set out.

Government-certified taxis have a license with a photo of the driver and a taxi number prominently displayed, a meter, and either an orange or green stripe at the bottom of the license plate.Tipping is not necessary unless the driver helps you with your bags, in which case a few pesos are appropriate.

If you lose something in a taxi or have questions or a complaint, call the Sindicato de Taxistas (PHONE: 998/888-6985).