Aruba's state-of-the-art Reina Beatrix International Airport (AUA) (PHONE:297/58-24800; www.airportaruba.com) is equipped with thorough security, many flight displays, and state-of-the-art baggage handling systems.

Travelers to the U.S. will have to clear U.S. Customs and Immigration before leaving Aruba, so should allow a little extra time. The good news is that when you arrive in the U.S you will be arriving as a domestic passenger.

Aruba is 2½ hours from Miami and 5½ hours from New York.

Carriers

Flights leave daily to Aruba from New York area airports, Miami, and San Juan, with easy connections from most American cities.

Dutch Caribbean Airlines (PHONE:297/58-23546 in Aruba; 800/327-7230 in North America) flies daily from Miami via Curaçao, twice a week nonstop from Atlanta, and twice a week from San Juan, Puerto Rico, through Curaçao. The airline also has connecting flights to Caracas, Bonaire, Curaçao, St. Maarten, and other islands, and it offers the Visit Caribbean Pass for travel between islands.

American Airlines (PHONE:800/433-7300; 297/58-22700 in Aruba; www.aa.com) offers daily nonstop service from New York and twice daily service from San Juan. From Toronto and Montréal flights are via San Juan.

Continental (PHONE:800/231-0856; 297/58-80044 in Aruba; www.continental.com) has nonstop service daily from Newark.

Delta (PHONE:800/241-4141; 297/58-80044 in Aruba; www.delta.com) flies nonstop daily from Atlanta and weekly from New York's JFK.

KLM (PHONE:297/58-34406 in Aruba; 31/20-4-747-747 in Amsterdam; www.klm.com) offers regular service from Amsterdam.

United Airlines (PHONE:800/538-2929; 297/58-29592 in Aruba; www.united.com) flies weekly from Chicago and seasonally from Dulles in Washington, D.C.

USAirways (PHONE:800/428-4322; 800-1580 in Aruba; www.usairways.com) flies daily from Charlotte and Philadelphia.

From the U.K.

Make connections with airlines that serve Aruba through New York area airports and Miami International Airport.

British Airways (PHONE:0845/77-333-77; www.britishairways.com).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE:0129/374-7747; www.virginatlantic.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

A taxi from the airport to most hotels takes about 20 minutes. It will cost about $16 to get to the hotels along Eagle Beach, $18 to the high-rise hotels on Palm Beach, and $9 to the hotels downtown.

Banks

Bank hours are weekdays 8:15-5:45; some close from noon to 1. The Caribbean Mercantile Bank at the airport is open Saturday 9-4 and Sunday 9-1.

Post Offices

The central post office in Oranjestad is across from the San Francisco Church and is open weekdays 7:30-noon and 1-4:30. The post office in the Royal Plaza mall is open Monday-Saturday, 7-6:45.

Shops

Shops are generally open Monday-Saturday 8:30-6. Some stores stay open through the lunch hour, noon-2, and many open when cruise ships are in port on Sunday and holidays.

Arriving in the Caribbean

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Antigua. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

These rules generally apply throughout the Caribbean: you are limited to bringing in 2 liters of alcohol, two cartons of cigarettes, and a reasonable amount of duty-free goods for your personal use. More than that, and you'll be asked to pay a hefty import tax.

Aruba runs on a 110-volt cycle, the same as in the United States; outlets are usually the two-prong variety. Total blackouts are rare, and most large hotels have backup generators.

Ambulance and Fire emergencies (PHONE:115).

Police emergencies (PHONE:111000).

Hospital

Dr. Horacio Oduber Hospital (L. G. Smith Blvd., across from Costa Linda Beach Resort and the Alhambra Bazaar and Casino, Aruba, PHONE:297/58-74300).

Pharmacy

Botica Eagle (L. G. Smith Blvd., Aruba, PHONE:297/58-76103).

Boat Tours

If you try a cruise around the island, know that the choppy waters are stirred up by trade winds and that catamarans are much smoother than single-hulled boats. Sucking on a peppermint or lemon candy may help a queasy stomach; avoid boating with an empty or overly full stomach. Moonlight cruises cost about $25 per person. There are also a variety of snorkeling, dinner and dancing, and sunset party cruises to choose from, priced from $25 to $60 per person. Many of the smaller operators work out of their homes; they often offer to pick you up (and drop you off) at your hotel or meet you at particular hotel pier.

De Palm Tours (L. G. Smith Blvd. 142, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-24400; 800/766-6016 in the U.S.; www.depalm.com).

Pelican Tours & Watersports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 232, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-72302; www.pelican-aruba.com).

Red Sail Sports (Seaport Village Mall, L. G. Smith Blvd. 82, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-61603; 877/733-7245 in the U.S.; www.aruba-redsail.com).

Orientation Tours

You can see the main sights in one day, but set aside two days to really meander. Guided tours are your best option if you have only a short time.

Aruba's Transfer Tour & Taxi C.A (Pos Abao 41, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-22116) takes you to the main sights on personalized tours that cost $30 per hour.

De Palm Tours (L. G. Smith Blvd. 142, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-24400; 800/766-6016 in the U.S.; www.depalm.com) has a near monopoly on Aruban sightseeing; you can make reservations through its general office or at hotel tour-desk branches. The basic 3½-hour tour hits such highlights as the Santa Anna Church, the Casibari Rock Formation, the Natural Bridge, and the Gold Smelter Ruins. Wear tennis or hiking shoes, and bring a lightweight jacket or wrap, as the air-conditioned bus gets cold.

Special-Interest Tours

Romantic horse-drawn carriage rides through the city streets of Oranjestad run $30 for a 30-minute tour; hours of operation are 7 PM-11 PM, and carriages depart from the clock tower at the Royal Plaza Mall.

Health-care standards vary from island to island in the Caribbean. The staff at your hotel can recommend a doctor, dentist, clinic, or hospital should a need arise. Sometimes, particularly at family resorts, a nurse is on-site during the day and a doctor is on call. Doctor visits, incidentally, can be costly -- even on islands where the general cost of living would make you think otherwise. Doctors and hospitals may require cash payment or take a major credit card; Medicare, Medicaid, and many U.S. medical insurance policies are not valid outside the U.S.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

Traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water, isn't a big problem in the Caribbean, but it does occur. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Island drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with familiar over-the-counter medicines and other health products that you might need. If you don't see precisely what you want, ask the pharmacist to recommend an appropriate substitute. If you can only use a specific or an uncommon medicine, be sure to bring a sufficient supply with you.

Pests and Other Hazards

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters on the windward (Atlantic Ocean) side of the islands. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin. The worst insect problem may well be the tiny no-see-ums (sand flies) that appear after a rain, near swampy ground, and around sunset; mosquitoes can also be annoying. Bring along a good repellent.

Shots and Medications

No special shots or vaccinations are required for Caribbean destinations.

Everyone on the island speaks English, but the official language is Dutch. Most locals, however, speak Papiamento -- a fascinating, rapid-fire mix of Spanish, Dutch, English, French, and Portuguese -- in normal conversation. Here are a few helpful phrases: bon dia (good day), bon nochi (good night), masha danki (thank you very much).

You can send an airmail letter from Aruba to the United States or Canada (it will take 7-14 days) for AFl2 and a postcard for AFl1.15; a letter to Europe (2-3 weeks) is AFl1.75, a postcard AFl1. Prices to Australia and New Zealand (3-4 weeks) may be slightly higher. When addressing letters to Aruba, don't worry about the lack of formal addresses or postal codes; the island's postal service knows where to go.

Airmail between Caribbean islands and cities in the United States or Canada takes 7-14 days; surface mail can take 4-6 weeks. Airmail to the United Kingdom takes 2-3 weeks, to Australia and New Zealand, 3-4 weeks.

Courier services (such as Airborne, FedEx, UPS, and others) operate throughout the Caribbean, although not every company serves each island. "Overnight" service is more likely to take two or more days, because of the limited number of flights on which packages can be shipped.

Arubans happily accept U.S. dollars virtually everywhere, so there's no real need to exchange money, except for necessary pocket change (for soda machines or pay phones).

ATMs

If you need fast cash, you'll find ATMs that accept international cards at banks in Oranjestad, at the major malls, and along the roads leading to the hotel strip.

ABN/Amro Bank (Caya G. F. Betico Croes 89, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-21515).

Caribbean Mercantile Bank (Caya G. F. Betico Croes 5, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-23118).

Currency

The official currency is the Aruban florin (AFl), also called the guilder, which is made up of 100 cents. Silver coins come in denominations of 1, 2½, 5, 10, 25, and 50 (the square one) cents. Paper currency comes in denominations of 5, 10, 25, 50, and 100 florins.

Taxes

Hotels usually add an 11% service charge to the bill and collect a 6% government tax.

A 6.5% ABB tax (value-added tax) is included in the price charged in all nonduty-free shops.

The airport departure tax is a whopping $34.50, but the fee is usually included in your ticket price.

Tipping

Restaurants generally include a 10%-15% service charge on the bill; when in doubt, ask. If service isn't included, a 10% tip is standard; if it is included, it's still customary to add something extra, usually small change, at your discretion. Taxi drivers expect a 10%-15% tip, but it isn't mandatory. Porters and bellhops should receive about $2 per bag; chambermaids about $2 a day.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Aruba

U.S. and Canadian citizens need a valid passport or a birth certificate with a raised seal and a government-issued photo I.D. Visitors from the member countries of the European Union must carry their European Union Travel Card as well as a passport. All other nationalities must have a valid passport; a few countries' citizens require a visa.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html). Calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service.

Arubans are very friendly, so you needn't be afraid to stop and ask anyone for directions. It's a relatively safe island, but commonsense rules still apply. Lock your rental car and leave valuables in your hotel safe. Don't leave bags unattended in the airport, on the beach, or on tour transports.

Mosquitoes and flies can be bothersome during the odd rain shower, so pack some repellent. The strong trade winds are a relief in the subtropical climate, but don't hang your bathing suit on a balcony -- it will probably blow away. Help Arubans conserve water and energy: turn off air-conditioning when you leave your room, and don't let water run unnecessarily. Tap water is okay to drink.

Phone and fax service to and from the Caribbean is up to date and efficient. Phone cards are used throughout the islands; you can buy them (in various denominations) at many retail shops and convenience stores. Some must be used in special card phones, which are also widely available.

To call Aruba direct from the United States, dial 011-297, followed by the seven-digit number in Aruba.

When making calls to anywhere in Aruba, simply dial the seven-digit number. AT&T customers can dial 800-8000 from special phones at the cruise dock and in the airport's arrival and departure halls. Otherwise dial 121 to contact the international operator to place a call.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Public Phones

Local calls from pay phones, which accept both local currency and phone cards, cost 25¢.

Tourist Offices

In Aruba

Aruba Tourism Authority (PHONE:800/862-7822; www.aruba.com).

At Home

Aruba Tourism Authority (PHONE:800/862-7822; www.aruba.com).

Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) (80 Broad St., New York, NY, 10004, PHONE:212/635-9530, FAX: 212/635-9511).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots).

Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but, as everyone knows, it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand.

As part of the late-fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The southernmost Caribbean islands, including Aruba, are generally spared the threat of hurricanes. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

Holidays

Public holidays are New Year's Day, Betico Croes's Birthday (a politician who aided Aruba's transition to semi-independence; January 25), National Anthem and Flag Day (March 18), Good Friday (varies), Easter Monday (varies), Queen's Birthday (April 30), Labor Day (May 1), Ascension Day (May 9), Christmas Day, Boxing Day (December 26).

Pedal pushing is a great way to get around the island; the climate is perfect, and the trade winds help to keep you cool.

Pablito's Bike Rental (L. G. Smith Blvd. 234, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-78655) rents mountain bikes for about $15 per day.

Buses run hourly trips between the beach hotels and Oranjestad. The one-way fare is $1.15 ($2 round-trip), and exact change is preferred (so be sure to keep some U.S. change handy if you plan to pay in U.S. currency). Buses also run down the coast from Oranjestad to San Nicolas for the same fare.

Car Rentals

Rates are between $45 and $65 a day (local agencies generally have lower rates). Insurance is available starting at $10 per day, and all companies offer unlimited mileage. Try to make reservations before arriving, and opt for a four-wheel-drive vehicle if you plan to explore the island's natural sights.

In Aruba

Avis (Kolibristraat 14, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-28787).

Budget (Kolibristraat 1, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-28600).

Dollar (Grendeaweg 15, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-22783).

Economy (Kolibristraat 5, Oranjestad, PHONE:297/58-25176).

Hedwina Car Rental (Bubali 93A, Noord, PHONE:297/58-76442).

Hertz (Sabana Blanco 35, near the airport, Aruba, PHONE:297/58-21845).

National (Tanki Leendert 170, Noord, PHONE:297/58-71967).

Thrifty (Balashi 65, Santa Cruz, PHONE:297/58-55300).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE:800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

You'll need a valid driver's license to rent a car, and you must meet the minimum age requirements of each rental service (Budget, for example, requires drivers to be over 25; Avis, between the ages of 23 and 70; and Hertz, over 21). A deposit of $500 (or a signed credit-card slip) is required.

Road Conditions

Aside from the major highways, the island's winding roads are poorly marked. International traffic signs and Dutch-style traffic signals (with an extra light for a turning lane) can be misleading if you're not used to them; use extreme caution, especially at intersections, until you grasp the rules of the road.

Rules of the Road

Speed limits are rarely posted but are usually 80 kph (50 mph) in the countryside.

There's a dispatch office at the airport; you can also flag down taxis on the street (look for license plates with a "TX" tag). Rates are fixed (i.e., there are no meters; the rates are set by the government and displayed on a chart), though you and the driver should agree on the fare before your ride begins. Add $1 to the fare after midnight and $1-$3 on Sunday and holidays. An hour-long island tour costs about $30, with up to four people. Rides into town from Eagle Beach run about $5; from Palm Beach, about $8.

Airport Taxi Dispatch (PHONE:297/58-22116).