The hottest items continue to be cigars. Many exquisite hand-wrapped smokes come from the island's rich Ciabo Valley, and Fuente Cigars -- handmade in Santiago -- are highly prized, but beware of anyone selling cigars on the street. Only reputable cigar shops sell the real thing. You can also buy and enjoy Cuban cigars here, but they can't be brought back to the U.S. legally.

Dominican rum and coffee are also good buys. Mamajuana, an herbal potion, is the Dominican answer to Viagra. The D.R. is the homeland of designer Oscar de la Renta, and you may want to stop at the chic shops that carry his creations. La Vega is famous for its diablos cajuelos (devil masks), which are worn during Carnival. Look also for the delicate, faceless ceramic figurines that symbolize Dominican culture.

Though locally crafted products are often of a high caliber (and often very affordable), expect to pay hundreds of dollars for designer jewelry made of amber and larimar. Larimar -- a semiprecious stone the color of the Caribbean Sea -- is found on the D.R.'s south coast. Prices vary according to the stone's hue; the rarest and most expensive gems have a milky haze, and the less expensive are solid blue. Amber has been mined extensively between Puerto Plata and Santiago. A fossilization of resin from a prehistoric pine tree, it often encases ancient animal and plant life, from leaves to spiders to tiny lizards. Beware of fakes, which are especially prevalent in street stalls. Visit a reputable dealer or store and ask how to tell the difference between real larimar and amber and imitations.

Bargaining is both a game and a social activity in the D.R., especially with street vendors and at the stalls in El Mercado Modelo. Vendors are perplexed if you don't haggle. They're also tenacious, so unless you really plan to buy, don't even stop to look.