Flights to Grand Cayman land at Owen Roberts Airport (GCM) (PHONE:345/949-5252 or 345/949-7811).

Flights to Cayman Brac land at Gerrard Smith International Airport (CYB) (PHONE:345/948-1222).

Flights to Little Cayman land at Edward Bodden Airstrip (PHONE:345/948-0021).

Flights from New York take about 4 hours; those from Miami, about an hour. Nonstop flights from London and Paris to the Caribbean are about 7 hours.

Carriers

All jet service is to Grand Cayman; you have to hop over to Cayman Brac and Little Cayman on a small propeller plane.

Air Canada (PHONE:888/247-2262; 345/949-2311; 345/949-8200 Ext. 1908 /1909 in Grand Cayman; www.aircanada.ca) provides direct twice-weekly service from Toronto on Sunday and Wednesday.

American Airlines (PHONE:800/433-7300; 345/949-0666 in Grand Cayman; www.aa.com) has daily nonstop flights from Miami and twice-weekly flights from New York (JFK).

Cayman Airways (PHONE:345/949-2311 or 800/422-9626; www.caymanairways.com) flies nonstop from Miami two or three times daily, from Tampa four times a week, from Orlando three times a week, and from Houston and Atlanta three times a week.

Continental (PHONE:800/231-0856; 345/916-5545 in Grand Cayman; www.continental.com) flies nonstop from Newark, New Jersey, three times a week.

Delta (PHONE:800/221-1212 or 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) has daily nonstops from Atlanta and New York (JFK).

Northwest (PHONE:800/447-4747; 345/949-2955 in Grand Cayman; www.nwa.com) has nonstops from Detroit from December through April.

US Airways (PHONE:800/428-4322; 345/949-2955 in Grand Cayman; www.usairways.com) flies nonstop daily from Charlotte, North Carolina, and Philadelphia.

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE:0845/77-333-77 in London; 345/945-3459; 345/949-6899 in Grand Cayman; www.britishairways.com) offers twice-weekly service from London (Gatwick) with an intermediate stop in Nassau, Bahamas.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Some hotels offer free pickup at the airport, particularly on Cayman Brac and Little Cayman. Taxi service and car rentals are also available.

Banks

Banks are open Monday-Thursday 9-2:30 and Friday 9-1 and 2:30-4:30.

Post Offices

Post offices are generally open weekdays from 8:30 to 3:30 and Saturday from 8:30 to 11:30.

Shops

Shops are open weekdays 9-5, and Saturday in George Town from 10 to 2; in outer shopping plazas they are open from 10 to 5. Shops are usually closed Sunday except in hotels.

Arriving in the Cayman Islands

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, such as Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and Antigua. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

These rules generally apply throughout the Caribbean: you are limited to bringing in 2 liters of alcohol, two cartons of cigarettes, and a reasonable amount of duty-free goods for your personal use. More than that, and you'll be asked to pay a hefty import tax.

Electricity is the same in the Caymans as it is in the United States (110 volts, 60 cycles); it's reliable throughout the islands.

U.S. Consular Representative (Mrs. Gail Duquesney at Adventure Travel, Cayman Islands, PHONE:345/945-1511).

Medical and Fire emergencies (PHONE:911).

Police emergencies (PHONE:911).

Dentists

David Godfrey (PHONE:345/949-7623).

David Wolfe (PHONE:345/945-4388).

Hospital

George Town Hospital (Hospital Rd., George Town, PHONE:345/949-4234) has a 24-hour two-person double-lock hyperbaric chamber.

Pharmacies

Island Pharmacy (West Shore Centre, West Bay Rd., George Town, PHONE:345/949-8987).

You'll hear first names preceded by "Mr." or "Miss" (e.g., Mr. Sam) -- these are terms of respect generally used for Caymanian senior citizens.

Half-day tours average $30-$50 a person and generally include a visit to the Turtle Farm and Hell in West Bay, drives along Seven Mile Beach and through George Town, and time for shopping downtown. In addition to those stops, full-day tours, which average $55-$75 per person and include lunch, also visit Bodden Town to see pirate caves and graves and the East End, where you visit blowholes on the ironshore and the site of the famous Wreck of the Ten Sails.

A. A. Transportation Services (PHONE:345/949-7222 ask for Burton Ebanks).

Majestic Tours (PHONE:345/949-7773).

Tropicana Tours (PHONE:345/949-0944).

Silver Thatch (PHONE:345/945-6588) specializes in natural and historic heritage tours.

Boat Tours

The most impressive sights in the Cayman Islands are underwater, and several submarine trips will allow you to see these wonders.

Acqua Delights (PHONE:345/949-8100) offers glass-bottom-boat trips for around $25.

On Grand Cayman don't miss a trip on the Atlantis Submarine (PHONE:345/949-7700 or 800/877-8571; www.atlantisadventures.net), which takes 48 passengers, a driver, and two guides down along the Cayman Wall to depths of up to 100 ft. Through its large windows you can see huge barrel sponges, corals in extraterrestrial-like configurations, strange eels, and schools of beautiful and beastly fish. Costs range around $72-$85 per person for trips lasting 1-1½ hours.

Kirk Sea Tours (PHONE:345/949-6986) offers glass-bottom-boat trips for around $25.

The Nautilus (PHONE:345/945-1355; www.nautilus.ky) is a semisubmersible (part of the craft remains above water). You can catch some sun on the deck or venture to the cabin below, where windows allow you to see the reefs and marine life. A one-hour undersea tour is $35.

In the semisubmersible Seaworld Explorer (PHONE:345/949-8534) you sit before windows in the hull of the boat just 5 ft below the surface, observing divers who swim around with food, attracting fish to the craft. The cost of this hour-long trip is $38.

Sunset sails, dinner cruises, and other theme (dance, booze, pirate, etc.) cruises are available aboard several vessels. Party cruises typically run $20-$50 per person.

Blackbeard's Nancy (PHONE:345/949-8988) is a 1912 topsail schooner, offering dinner cruises among others.

The Jolly Roger (PHONE:345/949-8534) is a replica of a 17th-century Spanish galleon offering afternoon, sunset, and dinner cruises.

The Spirit of Ppalu (PHONE:345/949-1234) is a 65-ft glass-bottom catamaran offering dinner cruises.

The staff at your hotel can recommend a doctor, dentist, clinic, or hospital should a need arise. Sometimes, particularly at family resorts, a nurse is on-site during the day and a doctor is on call. Doctor visits, incidentally, can be costly -- even on islands where the general cost of living would make you think otherwise. Doctors and hospitals may require cash payment or take a major credit card; Medicare, Medicaid, and many U.S. medical insurance policies are not valid outside the U.S.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

Traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water, isn't a big problem in the Caribbean, but it does occur. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Island drug stores and supermarkets are well stocked with familiar over-the-counter medicines and other health products that you might need. If you don't see precisely what you want, ask the pharmacist to recommend an appropriate substitute. If you can only use a specific or an uncommon medicine, be sure to bring a sufficient supply with you.

Pests and Other Hazards

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters on the windward (Atlantic Ocean) side of the islands. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin. The worst insect problem may well be the tiny no-see-ums (sand flies) that appear after a rain, near swampy ground, and around sunset; mosquitoes can also be annoying. Bring along a good repellent.

Shots and Medications

No special shots or vaccinations are required for Caribbean destinations.

English is the official language in the Cayman Islands, and it is spoken with a distinctive brogue that reflects Caymanians' Welsh, Scottish, and English heritage. For example, three is pronounced "tree"; pepper is "pep-ah"; and Cayman is "K-man." The number of Jamaican residents in the workforce means the Jamaican patois and heavier accent are also common (other Jamaican influences are tales about the duppy -- pronounced like "puppy" -- a scary night creature that haunts the Caymans).

Beautiful stamps are available at the General Post Office in downtown George Town and at the philatelic office in West Shore Plaza. Sending a postcard to the United States, Canada, the Caribbean, or Central America costs CI20¢. An airmail letter is CI30¢ per half ounce. To Europe and South America, rates are CI25¢ for a postcard and CI40¢ per half ounce for airmail letters.

When addressing letters to the Cayman Islands, be sure to include "BWI" (British West Indies) at the bottom of the envelope. Note that the islands don't use postal codes, but don't let this worry you; your letter should arrive perfectly well without one.

Airmail between Caribbean islands and cities in the United States or Canada takes 7-14 days; surface mail can take 4-6 weeks. Airmail to the United Kingdom takes 2-3 weeks, to Australia and New Zealand, 3-4 weeks.

Courier services (such as Airborne, FedEx, UPS, and others) operate throughout the Caribbean, although not every company serves each island. "Overnight" service is more likely to take two or more days, because of the limited number of flights on which packages can be shipped.

ATMs

ATMs are readily available, particularly on Grand Cayman; they usually give the option of U.S. or Cayman dollars.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards are widely accepted, except for Discover.

Currency

The Cayman dollar is divided into a hundred cents, with coins of 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, and 25¢ and notes of $1, $5, $10, $25, $50, and $100. There is no $20 bill. Although the American dollar is accepted everywhere, you'll often get your change in Cayman dollars. A Cayman dollar is worth about 20% more than a U.S. dollar, so keep this in mind when looking at menu and other prices.

Taxes

A 10% government tax is added at all accommodations. Otherwise, there is no tax on goods or services.

Tipping

At large hotels a service charge is generally included and can be anywhere from 6% to 10%; smaller establishments and some villas and condos leave tipping up to you. Although tipping is customary at restaurants, note that some automatically include 15% on the bill -- so check the tab carefully. Taxi drivers expect a 10%-15% tip.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering the Cayman Islands

It is always best when traveling abroad to carry a valid passport. However, U.S., U.K., and Canadian citizens, as well as citizens of Commonwealth countries, may carry an original birth certificate (with a raised seal) and a valid picture ID. A voter registration card is no longer acceptable identification. Citizens of all other countries need a valid passport, and everyone must have a valid return ticket.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0G3, PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html). Calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service.

The Cayman Islands are relatively safe. Theft is not widespread, but be smart: lock your room and car and secure valuables as you would at home. Outdoors, marauding blackbirds called ching chings have been known to carry off jewelry if it is left out in the open.

For international dialing to the Cayman Islands, the area code is 345.

To make local calls (on or between any of the three islands), dial the seven-digit number.

International Calls

To call outside the Caymans, dial 0 + 1 + area code and number. You can call anywhere, anytime through the cable and wireless system and local operators. To place credit-card calls, dial 110; credit-card and calling-card calls can be made from any public phone and most hotels. Beware though, that most hotels add huge surcharges to all calls local and international, even to toll-free access numbers for prepaid phone cards.

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Tourist Offices

In the Cayman Islands

Department of Tourism (Cricket Sq. and Elgin Ave., George Town, PHONE:345/949-0623).

Islands-wide tourist hot line (PHONE:345/949-8989).

Burton's Tourist Information & Activity Services (PHONE:345/949-6598, FAX: 345/945-6222).

At Home

Cayman Islands Department of Tourism (6100 Blue Lagoon Dr., Suite 150, Miami, FL, 33126-2085, PHONE:305/266-2300; www.caymanislands.ky).

Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO) (80 Broad St., New York, NY, 10004, PHONE:212/635-9530, FAX: 212/635-9511).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots).

Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but, as everyone knows, it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand.

As part of the late-fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

Holidays

Public holidays include New Year's Day, Ash Wednesday (46 days before Easter), Good Friday (Friday before Easter), Easter Sunday (usually April or May), Discovery Day (May 19), Queen's Birthday (June 16), Constitution Day (July 7), Christmas, and Boxing Day (Dec. 26).

If your accommodations are along Grand Cayman's Seven Mile Beach, you can walk or bike to the shopping centers, restaurants, and entertainment spots along West Bay Road. George Town is small enough to see on foot. If you want to see Grand Cayman, renting a car for a day is an option. You can also take a taxi, though the cost might be substantial.

On Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, renting a car, bike, or moped is a must if you want to see more of the islands. There is no ferry service between any of the islands; you must fly.

Air service from Grand Cayman to Cayman Brac and Little Cayman is offered by two airlines:

Cayman Airways (PHONE:345/949-2311 or 800/422-9626; www.caymanairways.com) has daily morning and evening service to both Cayman Brac and Little Cayman.

Island Air (PHONE:345/949-5252; www.islandaircayman.com) offers morning and afternoon service from Grand Cayman to both Cayman Brac and Little Cayman.

When renting a motor scooter or bicycle, remember to drive on the left -- and wear sunblock. Bicycles ($10-$15 a day) and scooters ($30-$35 a day) can be rented from several outlets on Grand Cayman. Since the island is fairly flat, riding is generally not a problem. On Cayman Brac or Little Cayman your hotel can make arrangements for you. Many resorts also offer bicycles for local sightseeing.

Cayman Cycle (PHONE:345/945-4021).

Traffic on West Bay Road in Grand Cayman can be congested, especially during high season, as it's the only thoroughfare on the Seven Mile Beach strip. Head out of the strip and get beyond George Town, and traffic will be sparse. Exploring Cayman Brac on a scooter is easy and fun. You won't really need a car on Little Cayman, though there are a limited number of jeeps for rent.

Car Rentals

Most firms offer everything from compacts to jeeps to minibuses. Rates range from $35 to $65 a day. The major agencies have offices in a plaza across from the airport terminal in Grand Cayman, where you can pick up and drop off vehicles. You can rent a car from Ace Hertz, Budget, Coconut, Economy, Soto's, and Thrifty on Grand Cayman. Ace Hertz also has an office on Cayman Brac. B&S Motor Ventures has the newest fleet on Cayman Brac, including cars, scooters, and jeeps. McLaughlin is the only agency on Little Cayman, though you probably won't need to rent a car there.

On the Cayman Islands

Ace Hertz (PHONE:345/949-2280 or 800/654-3131).

Budget (PHONE:345/949-5605 or 800/472-3325).

B&S Motor Ventures (PHONE:345/948-2517).

Coconut Car Rentals (PHONE:345/949-4377 or 800/941-4562; www.coconutcarrentals.com).

Economy (PHONE:345/949-9550).

McLaughlin Rentals (PHONE:345/948-1000).

Soto's 4x4 (PHONE:345/945-2424 or 800/625-6174; www.sotos4x4.ky).

Thrifty (PHONE:345/949-6640 or 800/367-2277).

At Home

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

Requirements

To rent a car, bring your current driver's license, and the car-rental firm will issue you a temporary permit ($7.50).

Road Conditions

If you're touring Grand Cayman by car, there's a well-maintained road that circles the island; it's hard to get lost. Grand Cayman is relatively flat and fairly easy to negotiate if you're careful in traffic. Roads are well marked and in decent condition on all three islands.

Rules of the Road

Remember -- driving in the Cayman Islands is on the left, so when pulling out into traffic, look to your right.

Taxis offer 24-hour island-wide service. Fares are determined by an elaborate rate structure set by the government, and although cabs are pricey for a short ride (the fare from Seven Mile Beach for four people to the airport is $15 to $25), cabbies rarely try to rip off tourists. Ask to see the chart if you want to double-check the quoted fare.

A. A. Transportation Services (PHONE:345/949-7222).

Cayman Cab Team (PHONE:345/945-1173).