The Aeropuerto Internacional Luis Muñoz Marín (SJU) (PHONE: 787/791-3840) is minutes east of downtown San Juan in the coastal section of Isla Verde.

The flight from New York to San Juan, Puerto Rico, takes 3½ hours; from Miami to San Juan it's 1½ hours. Once you've arrived in the Caribbean, hops between islands range from 20 minutes to 2 hours.

Carriers

Major U.S. Airlines

San Juan is the regional hub of American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300), which flies nonstop from New York, Newark, Boston, Miami, Orlando, Fort Lauderdale, Los Angeles, and St. Louis.

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856) has daily nonstop service from Newark, Houston, and Cleveland.

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141) offers nonstop service from Atlanta.

Northwest (PHONE: 800/447-4747) has daily nonstop flights from Detroit, Memphis, and Minneapolis.

United (PHONE: 800/538-2929) flies nonstop daily from Chicago and has weekend flights from New York and Washington, DC.

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322) flies nonstop daily from Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, and Charlotte.

Spirit Air (PHONE: 800/756-7117), with two daily nonstop flights from Fort Lauderdale with connections from New York, Atlantic City, and Detroit.

From Elsewhere in the World

Air Canada Vacations (PHONE: 800/774-8993 in North America) has flights to San Juan from Montréal and Toronto.

Canadian Airlines (PHONE: 800/426-7000 in North America) has service -- with a stop in Miami -- from Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/7222-111 in the U.K.; 800/247-9297 in the U.S) serves San Juan from London.

Lufthansa's partner, Condor (PHONE: 06107/939-229 in Germany), flies out of Germany.

LACSA-Group Taca (PHONE: 506/231-0033 in Costa Rica) connects San Juan to San José, Costa Rica.

From Australia, you can take Qantas (PHONE: 800/062-241 in Australia; 09/357-8700 in Auckland; 0800/808-767 elsewhere in New Zealand; 800/227-4500 in the U.S.) from Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, Melbourne, and several other cities to Honolulu and Los Angeles for connections to Puerto Rico. Qantas also flies from Auckland, New Zealand, to Los Angeles.

Within the Caribbean

Puerto Rico is also a good spot from which to hop to other Caribbean islands.

ALM (PHONE: 800/327-7230) travels to Jamaica, Aruba, Bonaire, and its base in Curaçao.

American Airline's American Eagle (PHONE: 800/433-7300) serves many of the Lesser Antilles islands.

Cape Air (PHONE: 800/352-0714) connects San Juan to St. Thomas and St. Croix.

Leeward Islands Air Transport (LIAT) (PHONE: 800/468-0482; 787/791-0800 in Puerto Rico), based in Antigua, flies to nearly all the Lesser Antilles islands.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Públicos -- "public cars" -- are actually 17-passenger vans. They have yellow license plates ending in "P" or "PD," and they scoot to towns throughout the island, stopping in each community's main plaza. They operate primarily during the day; routes and fares are fixed by the public service commission, but schedules aren't set, so you have to call ahead. In San Juan, the main terminals are at the airport and at Plaza Colón on the waterfront in Old San Juan.

San Juan-based público companies include Blue Line for trips to Aguadilla and the northwest coast, Choferes Unidos de Ponce for Ponce, Línea Caborrojeña for Cabo Rojo and the southwest coast, Línea Boricua for the interior and the southwest, Línea Sultana for Mayagüez and the west coast, and Terminal de Transportación Pública for Fajardo and the east.

By Car

Route 26 is the main artery through San Juan, connecting Condado and Old San Juan to Isla Verde and the airport.

By Taxi

Taxis painted white and sporting the garita (sentry box) logo and taxi turistico label charge set rates depending on the destination; they run from the airport to Isla Verde, Condado/Ocean Park, and Old San Juan, with rates ranging from $6 to $16. Metered cabs authorized by the Public Service Commission start at $1 and charge 10¢ for every additional mi, 50¢ for every suitcase. Waiting time is 10¢ for each 45 seconds. The minimum charge is $3 and there is an extra $1 night charge between 10 PM and 6 AM.

Banks and Offices

Bank hours are generally weekdays 8-4 or 9-5, though a few branches are open Saturday 9-noon or 1. Post offices are open weekdays 7:30-4:30 and Saturday 8-noon. Government offices are open weekdays 9-5.

Gas Stations

Most stations are open daily from early in the morning until 10 PM or 11 PM. Numerous stations in urban areas are open 24 hours.

Museums and Sights

As a rule San Juan area museums are closed on Monday, and in some cases, Sunday. Hours otherwise are 9 or 10 AM to 5 PM, often with an hour off for lunch between noon and 2. Sights managed by the national parks service, such as Fuerte San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are open daily 9-5.

Pharmacies

In cities, pharmacies are generally open 9-6 or 7 weekdays and on Saturday. Walgreens operates numerous pharmacies around the island; some are open 24 hours.

Shops

Street shops are open Monday through Saturday 9 to 6 (9-9 during Christmas holidays); mall stores tend to stay open to 9 or so. Count on convenience stores staying open late into the night, seven days a week. Supermarkets are often closed on Sunday, although some remain open 24-hours, seven days a week.

Arriving in Puerto Rico

Although customs inspectors in some countries inspect all baggage to allay their concerns about smuggling or drug running, many islands wave those tourists who have no goods to declare through customs inspections with only a cursory question or two. Exceptions include major hubs within the Caribbean, including Puerto Rico. If you're yachting through the islands, note that harbor customs are often thorough, as well.

Puerto Rico uses the same electrical current as the U.S. mainland, namely 110 volts.

Ambulance, police, and fire (PHONE: 911).

Air Ambulance Service (PHONE: 800/633-3590 or 787/756-3424).

Dental Emergencies (PHONE: 787/722-2351 or 787/795-0320).

San Juan Tourist Zone Police (PHONE: 787/726-7020; 787/726-7015 for Condado; 787/728-4770; 787/726-2981 for Isla Verde).

Travelers' Aid (PHONE: 787/791-1054 or 787/791-1034).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Ashford Presbyterian Memorial Community Hospital (1451 Av. Ashford, Condado, San Juan, PHONE: 787/721-2160).

General Hospital Dr. Ramón Emeterio Betances (Rte. 2, Km 157, Mayagüez, PHONE: 787/834-8686).

Hospital de la Concepción (41 Calle Luna, San Germán, PHONE: 787/892-1860).

Hospital Damas (2213 Ponce Bypass Rd., Ponce, PHONE: 787/840-8686).

Hospital Dr. Dominguez (300 Font Martello, Humacao, PHONE: 787/852-0505).

Hospital Gubern (110 Antonio R. Barcelo, Fajardo, PHONE: 787/863-0294).

Puerto Ricans have, in general, a strong sense of religion -- as evidenced by the numerous Catholic patron-saint festivals held throughout the year. Many islanders are somewhat conservative in dress and manners despite a penchant for frenetic music and sexually charged dance. There's also a strong sense of island identity, marked by often-ferocious debates over Puerto Rico's political destiny.

In Old San Juan, free trolleys can take you around, and the tourist board can provide you with a copy of Qué Pasa, which contains a self-guided walking tour.

The Caribbean Carriage Company (PHONE: 787/797-8063) gives old city tours in horse-drawn carriages. Look for these buggies at Plaza Dársenas near Pier 1; the cost is $30-$60 per couple.

If you'd like to explore other parts of the island, several companies offer tours. Leading San Juan operators include:

Cordero Caribbean Tours (PHONE: 787/786-9114; 787/780-2442 evenings).

Normandie Tours, Inc. (PHONE: 787/722-6308).

Rico Suntours (PHONE: 787/722-2080 or 787/722-6090).

Tropix Wellness Outings (PHONE: 787/268-2173).

United Tour Guides (PHONE: 787/725-7605 or 787/723-5578).

The major health risk in the Caribbean is sunburn or sunstroke. Having a long-sleeve shirt, a hat, and long pants or a beach wrap available is essential on a boat, for midday at the beach, and whenever you go out sightseeing. Use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 -- especially if your complexion is fair -- and apply it liberally on your nose, ears, and other sensitive and exposed areas. Make sure the sunscreen is waterproof if you're engaging in water sports, limit your sun time for the first few days, and drink plenty of liquids, monitoring intake of caffeine and alcohol, which hasten the dehydration process.

Even experienced swimmers should exercise caution in waters on the windward (Atlantic Ocean) side of the islands. The unseen currents, powerful waves, strong undertows, and rocky bottoms can be extremely dangerous -- and lifeguards are rare. Even in the calmest water, watch out for black, spiny sea urchins; stepping on one is guaranteed to be painful for quite some time.

The small lizards native to the islands are harmless (and actually keep down the bug population), and poisonous snakes are hard to find. Beware of the manchineel tree, which grows near the beach and has green applelike fruit that is poisonous and bark and leaves that can burn the skin. The worst insect problem may well be the tiny no-see-ums (sand flies) that appear after a rain, near swampy ground, and around sunset; mosquitoes can also be annoying. Bring along a good repellent.

Puerto Rico is officially bilingual, but Spanish predominates. Although English is widely spoken, you'll probably want to take a Spanish phrase book along on your travels about the island.

Puerto Rico uses the U.S. postal system, and all addresses on the island carry Zip codes. You can buy stamps and aerograms and send letters and parcels in post offices. Stamp-dispensing machines can occasionally be found in airports, office buildings, and drugstores. Major post office branches are at 153 Calle Fortaleza in Old San Juan, 163 Avenida Fernández Juncos in San Juan, 102 Calle Garrido Morales in Fajardo, 94 Calle Atocha in Ponce, and 60 Calle McKinley in Mayagüez.

General information is available from Postal Services (PHONE: 787/622-1756).

ATMs

Automated Teller Machines (ATMs; known as ATHs here), are readily available and reliable in the cities; many are attached to banks, but you can also find them on the streets and in supermarkets. Just about every casino has one -- the better to keep people in the game -- as do many of the larger hotels. ATMs are found less frequently in rural areas. Look to local banks such as Banco Popular.

Currency

Puerto Rico, as a commonwealth of the United States, uses the U.S. dollar as its official currency.

Banco Popular de Puerto Rico (206 Calle Tetuán, Old San Juan, San Juan, PHONE: 787/725-2636; 1060 Av. Ashford, Condado, San Juan, PHONE: 787/725-4197; 115 Muñoz Rivera, Isabel Segunda, Vieques, PHONE: 787/741-2071; Rte. 3, Km 42.4, Fajardo, PHONE: 787/860-1570; Plaza las Delicias, Ponce, PHONE: 787/843-8000 or 787/848-2410; Mayagüez Mall, Rte. 2, Km 159.4, Mayagüez, PHONE: 787/834-4750).

Taxes

Accommodations incur a tax: for hotels with casinos it's 11%, for other hotels it's 9%, and for government-approved paradores it's 7%. Ask your hotel before booking. The tax, in addition to the standard 5%-12% service charge applied by most hotels, can add a hefty 20% or more to your bill.

There's no sales tax on Puerto Rico.

Airport departure taxes are usually included in the cost of your plane ticket rather than being collected at the airport.

Tipping

Tips are expected and appreciated by restaurant staff (15%-20% if a service charge isn't included), hotel porters ($1 per bag), maids ($1-$2 a day), and taxi drivers (15%-18%).

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is a commonwealth of the United States, so U.S. citizens don't need passports to visit the island (they must have a valid photo I.D., however). Canadians need proof of citizenship (preferably a valid passport; otherwise bring a birth certificate with a raised seal along with a government-issued photo I.D.). Citizens of Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom must have passports.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

San Juan, like any other big city, has its share of crime, so guard your wallet or purse on the city streets. Puerto Rico's beaches are open to the public, and muggings can occur at night even on the beaches of the posh Condado and Isla Verde tourist hotels. Although you certainly can, and should, explore the city and its beaches, use common sense. Don't leave anything unattended on the beach. Leave your valuables in the hotel safe, and stick to the fenced-in beach areas of your hotel. Always lock your car and stash valuables and luggage out of sight. Avoid deserted beaches at night.

Phone and fax service to and from the Caribbean is up-to-date and efficient. Phone cards are used throughout the islands; you can buy them (in various denominations) at many retail shops and convenience stores. Some must be used in special card phones, which are also widely available.

Puerto Rico's area codes are 787 and 939. Toll-free numbers (prefix 800, 888, or 877) are widely used in Puerto Rico, and many can be accessed from North America (and vice versa). For North Americans, dialing Puerto Rico is the same as dialing another U.S. state or a Canadian province.

International Calls

The country code for Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Dial 011, the country code, the city code, and the number. Dial 00 for an international long-distance operator. Phone cards are not required, but can be useful and are widely available (most drug stores carry them). The Puerto Rico Telephone Company sells its "Ring Cards" in various denominations.

Public Phones

To make a local call in Puerto Rico you must dial 1, the area code, and the seven-digit number.

Tourist Offices

In Puerto Rico

Culebra Tourism Office (250 Calle Pedro Marquez, Dewey, PHONE: 787/742-3521).

Fajardo Tourism Office (6 Av. Munoz Rivera, PHONE: 787/863-4013 Ext. 274).

Mayagüez City Hall (PHONE: 787/834-8585).

Ponce Municipal Tourist Office (2nd floor of Citibank, Plaza las Delicias [Box 1709], Ponce 00733, PHONE: 787/841-8160 or 787/841-8044).

Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Box 902-3960, Old San Juan Station, San Juan 00902-3960, PHONE: 787/721-2400; Plaza Dársenas, near Pier 1, Old San Juan, PHONE: 787/722-1709; Aeropuerto Internacional Luis Muñoz Marín, PHONE: 787/791-1014 or 787/791-2551; Rte. 101, Km 13.7, Cabo Riojo, PHONE: 787/851-7070; 291 Vallas Torres, Ponce, PHONE: 787/843-0465). Rincón Tourism Office (PHONE: 787/823-5024). Vieques Tourism Office (449 Calle Carlos Lebrón St., Isabel Segunda, PHONE: 787/741-5000 Ext. 26).

At Home

Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Box 902-3960, Old San Juan Station, San Juan, Puerto Rico 00902-3960, PHONE: 787/721-2400; 800/223-6530 from the U.S., www.gotopuertorico.com; 3575 W. Cahuenga Blvd., Suite 560, Los Angeles, CA 90068, PHONE: 213/874-5991; 901 Ponce de León Blvd., Suite 101, Coral Gables, FL 33134, PHONE: 305/445-9112).

The Caribbean high season is traditionally winter -- from December 15 to April 14 -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season, you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places (sometimes a year in advance for the most exclusive spots). Hotel prices drop 20%-50% after April 15; airfares and cruise prices also fall. Saving money isn't the only reason to visit the Caribbean during the off-season. Temperatures are only a few degrees warmer than at other times of the year, and many islands now schedule their carnivals, music festivals, and other events during the off-season. Late August, September, October, and early November are least crowded.

In summer, the flamboyant trees are at their peak, as are most of the flowers and shrubs of the West Indies. The water is clearer for snorkeling and smoother for sailing in the Virgin Islands and the Grenadines in May, June, and July. The peak of local excitement on many islands, most notably Trinidad, St. Vincent, Dominica, and the French West Indies, is Carnival -- traditionally held in February, the weekend before Ash Wednesday.

The Caribbean climate is fairly constant. The average year-round temperatures for the region are 78°F-88°F. The temperature extremes are 65°F low, 95°F high; but, as everyone knows, it's the humidity, not the heat, that makes you suffer, especially when the two go hand in hand. You can count on downtown shopping areas being hot at midday any time of the year, but air-conditioning provides some respite. Spend the day near beaches, where water and trade winds can keep you cool, and shop early or late in the day.

As part of the fall rainy season, hurricanes occasionally sweep through the Caribbean. Check the news daily and keep abreast of brewing tropical storms. The southernmost Caribbean islands (from St. Vincent to Trinidad, along with Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao) are generally spared the threat of hurricanes. The rainy season consists mostly of brief showers interspersed with sunshine. You can watch the clouds thicken, feel the rain, then have brilliant sunshine dry you off, all while remaining on your lounge chair. A spell of overcast days or heavy rainfall is unusual, as everyone will tell you.

High altitudes can be cool, particularly when winter winds hit Caribbean peaks (late November through January). Since many Caribbean islands are mountainous or at least hilly (notable exceptions are the Cayman Islands, Anguilla, Antigua, Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao), the altitude always offers an escape from the latitude.

Holidays

Public holidays in Puerto Rico include New Year's Day, Three Kings Day (Jan. 6), Eugenio María de Hostos Day (Jan. 8), Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.), Presidents' Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.), Palm Sunday, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Memorial Day (last Mon. in May), Independence Day (July 4), Luis Muñoz Rivera Day (July 16), Constitution Day (July 25), José Celso Barbosa Day (July 27), Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.), Columbus Day (2nd Mon. in Oct.), Veteran's Day (Nov. 11), Puerto Rico Discovery Day (Nov. 19), Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas.

"Whimsical" might best describe Caribbean addresses. Street names can change for no apparent reason, and most buildings have no numbers. To find your destination, you might have to ask a local -- and be prepared for directions such as, "Go down so, turn at the next gap (road), keep goin' past the church, and you'll see it right down the hill."

San Juan's small Aeropuerto Fernando L. Rivas Dominici (PHONE: 787/729-8711) is in Isla Grande, near the city's Miramar section. From here you can catch Vieques Air-Link flights to Culebra, Vieques, and other destinations on Puerto Rico and throughout the Caribbean. (Note that although the Dominici airport was still operating at this writing, its future was uncertain.)

Vieques Air-Link (PHONE: 888/901-9247; 787/723-9882 in Puerto Rico) connects San Juan with Vieques and Culebra.

The Autoridad de los Puertos (PHONE: 787/788-1155 in San Juan; 787/863-4560 in Fajardo; 787/742-3161 in Culebra; 787/741-4761 in Vieques), or Port Authority, ferry between Old San Juan (Pier 2) and Cataño costs a mere 50¢ one-way. It runs every half hour from 6 AM to 10 PM, and every 15 minutes during peak hours. The Fajardo Port Authority's 400-passenger ferries run between that east coast town and the islands of Vieques and Culebra; both trips take 90 minutes. The vessels carry cargo and passengers to Vieques three times daily ($2 one-way) and to Culebra twice a day Sunday through Friday and three times a day on Saturday ($2.25 one-way).

Get schedules for the Culebra and Vieques ferries by calling the port authority in Fajardo, Vieques, or Culebra. You buy tickets at the ferry dock. Reservations aren't necessary unless you're transporting a vehicle, in which case you should not only make a reservation but also arrive 1½ hours before the departure time.

The Autoridad Metropolitana de Autobuses (AMA) (PHONE: 787/729-1512 or 787/767-7979), or Metropolitan Bus Authority, operates guaguas (buses) that thread through San Juan, running in exclusive lanes on major thoroughfares and stopping at signs marked "Parada" or "Parada de Guaguas." The main terminals are at the Covadonga parking lot and Plaza de Colón in Old San Juan and the Capetillo Terminal in Río Piedras, next to the central business district. Most buses are air-conditioned and have wheelchair lifts and lock-downs.

In San Juan, bus fares are 25¢ or 50¢, depending on the route, and are paid in exact change upon entering the bus. Buses adhere to their routes, but schedules are fluid, to say the least. Count on a bus passing your stop every 20-30 minutes, less frequently on Sunday and holidays. Service starts at around 6 AM and generally lasts until 9 PM. For more information, call the AMA or pick up a schedule at the nearest bus station.

Bus travel to outlying areas is less than comprehensive. Your best bet for travel to other parts of the island is by rental car or by públicos -- "public cars," though most are actually 17-passenger vans. They have yellow license plates ending in "P" or "PD," and they scoot to towns throughout the island, stopping in each community's main plaza. They operate primarily during the day; routes and fares are fixed by the public service commission, but schedules aren't set, so you have to call ahead.

In San Juan, the main terminals are at the airport and at Plaza Colón on the waterfront in Old San Juan. San Juan-based público companies include:

Blue Line (PHONE: 787/765-7733) for trips to Aguadilla and the northwest coast.

Choferes Unidos de Ponce (PHONE: 787/764-0540) for Ponce.

Línea Caborrojeña (PHONE: 787/723-9155) for Cabo Rojo and the southwest coast.

Línea Boricua (PHONE: 787/765-1908) for the interior and the southwest.

Línea Sultana (PHONE: 787/765-9377) for Mayagüez and the west coast.

Terminal de Transportación Pública (PHONE: 787/250-0717) for Fajardo and the east.

Several well-marked multilane highways link population centers. Route 26 is the main artery through San Juan, connecting Condado and Old San Juan to Isla Verde and the airport. Route 22, which runs east-west between San Juan and Camuy, and the Luis A. Ferré Expressway (Route 52), which runs north-south between San Juan and Ponce, are toll roads (35¢-50¢). Route 2, a smaller highway, travels along the west coast, and routes 3 and 53 traverse the east shore. Distances are posted in kilometers (1.6 km to 1 mi), whereas speed limits are posted in miles per hour. Speeding and drunk-driving penalties are much the same here as on the mainland.

Car Rentals

If you rent a car, a good road map will be helpful in remote areas. A valid driver's license from your country of origin can be used in Puerto Rico for three months. Rates start as low as $35 a day (plus insurance), with unlimited mileage. Discounts are often offered for long-term rentals and for cars that are booked more than 72 hours in advance. All major U.S. car-rental agencies are represented on the island, though many reliable local companies offer competitive rates.

You'll find offices for dozens of agencies at San Juan's airports, and a majority of them have shuttle service to and from the airport and the pickup point. Most rental cars are available with automatic or standard transmission. Four-wheel-drive vehicles aren't necessary unless you plan to go way off the beaten path or along the steep, rocky roads of Culebra or Vieques; in most cases a standard compact car will do the trick. Always opt for air-conditioning, though.

In Puerto Rico

Avis (PHONE: 787/721-4499).

Budget (PHONE: 787/791-3685).

Hertz (PHONE: 787/791-0840).

National (PHONE: 787/791-1805).

Thrifty (PHONE: 787/253-2525).

Local Agencies

Charlie Car Rental (PHONE: 787/791-1101 or 800/289-1227).

L & M Car Rental (PHONE: 787/791-1160 or 800/666-0807).

Target (PHONE: 787/728-1447 or 800/934-6457).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Road Conditions

Roads are in generally good condition although you may want to keep an eye out for potholes, especially after heavy rains. Some roads in the mountains are very curvy and take longer to cover than the distance on a map might suggest. Not every road is marked, but most Puerto Ricans are happy to help with directions.

Gasoline

All types of fuel -- unleaded regular, unleaded super-premium, diesel -- are available by the litre. Most stations have both full- and self-service. Hours vary, but stations generally operate daily from early in the morning until 10 or 11 PM; in metro areas many are open 24 hours. Stations are few and far between in the central mountains and other rural areas; plan accordingly. In cities, you can pay with cash and bank or credit cards; in the hinterlands cash is often your only option.

The Puerto Rico Tourism Company has instituted a well-organized taxi program. Taxis painted white and sporting the garita (sentry box) logo and "Taxi Turistico" label charge set rates depending on the destination; they run from the airport or the cruise-ship piers to Isla Verde, Condado/Ocean Park, and Old San Juan, with rates ranging from $6 to $16. City tours start at $30 per hour. Metered cabs authorized by the Public Service Commission start at $1 and charge 10¢ for every additional mi, 50¢ for every suitcase. Waiting time is 10¢ for each 45 seconds. The minimum charge is $3 and there is an extra $1 night charge between 10 PM and 6 AM.

In other Puerto Rican towns, you can flag cabs down on the street, but it's easier to have your hotel call one for you. Either way, make sure the driver is clear on whether he or she will charge a flat rate or use a meter to determine the fare. In most places, the cabs are metered.

Contacts include:

Atlantic City Taxi (PHONE: 787/268-5050 in San Juan).

Fajardo Taxi Service (PHONE: 787/860-1112).

Lolo Felix Tours (PHONE: 787/485-5447 on Vieques).

Major Taxicabs (PHONE: 787/723-2460 in San Juan).

Ponce Taxi Association (PHONE: 787/842-3370).

Public Service Commission (PHONE: 787/751-5050).

Ruben's Taxi (PHONE: 787/405-1209 on Culebra).

White Taxi (PHONE: 787/832-1115 in Mayagüez).

Linéas

Linéas are private taxis you share with three to five other passengers. There are more than 20 companies, each usually specializing in a certain region. Most will arrange door-to-door service. Check local Yellow Pages listings under Linéas de Carros. They're affordable and are a great way to meet people, but be prepared to wait: they usually don't leave until they have a full load.

If your feet fail you in Old San Juan, climb aboard the free open-air trolleys that rumble and coast through the narrow streets. Departures are from La Puntilla and from the marina, but you can board anywhere along the route. Ponce has free trolleys that leave from Plaza las Delicias and stop at major tourist attractions.