Charleston International Airport (CHS) (5500 International Blvd., North Charleston, PHONE: 843/767-1100), on I-26, 12 miles west of downtown, is served by Continental, Comair, Delta, Northwest, United Express, and US Airways.

By air, Charleston is about an hour from Atlanta.

Carriers

Major Airlines

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Northwest/KLM (PHONE: 800/225-2525).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322).

Smaller Airlines

Comair (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Continental Express (PHONE: 800/525-0280).

United Express (PHONE: 800/241-6522).

From the U.K.

American (PHONE: 0345/789-789).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111).

Delta (PHONE: 0800/414-767).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Airport Ground Transportation (PHONE: 843/767-1100) arranges shuttles, which cost $10 per person to the downtown area. Some hotels provide shuttle service.

By Car

Charleston International Airport is on I-26, 12 miles west of downtown.

By Taxis and Shuttles

Several shuttle and cab companies service the airport. It costs about $18-$22 to travel downtown by taxi; to Mount Pleasant, $23-$35. Fares are approximately $1.65 per mile. Contact:

Absolute Charleston (PHONE: 843/817-4044).

Harvie's Taxi Limo Service (PHONE: 843/709-4276).

Lee's Limousine (PHONE: 843/797-0041).

Thurman's Limo (PHONE: 843/607-2912).

Greyhound (PHONE: 800/231-2222) serves Charleston and Moncks Corner.

Interstate 26 traverses the state from northwest to southeast and terminates at Charleston. The coast road, U.S. 17, passes through Charleston.

Amtrak (4565 Gaynor Ave., North Charleston, PHONE: 843/744-8264 or 800/872-7245) stops in Charleston, Camden, Columbia, Denmark, Florence, Greenville, Kingstree, and Yemassee (near Beaufort). Amtrak provides service to these cities along an East Coast route that runs from Boston to Miami.

Banks are usually open weekdays from 9 to 4 and some are also open on Saturday mornings. The post office is open from 8 to 5 weekdays and often on Saturday morning. Shops, particularly in indoor and strip malls, typically open at 9 or 10 daily and stay open until anywhere from 6 PM to 10 PM on weekdays and Saturday, and until 5 or 6 on Sunday. Hours vary greatly, so call ahead when in doubt.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (for inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/354-1000; for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A, Washington, DC 20229; for registration of equipment, Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036, PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001, PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Charleston Memorial Hospital (326 Calhoun St., Upper King, PHONE: 843/577-0600).

Medical University of South Carolina (MUSC) Hospital (169 Ashley Ave., Upper King, PHONE: 843/792-3826).

Roper Hospital (316 Calhoun St., Upper King, PHONE: 843/724-2000).

Late-Night Pharmacies

Eckerds (Calhoun St. and Rutledge Ave., Upper King, PHONE: 843/805-6022).

Boat Tours

Fort Sumter Tours & Spiritline Cruises (PHONE: 843/881-7337 or 800/789-3678) ply Charleston Harbor, operating 1½-hour narrated daytime cruises and 3-hour dinner cruises aboard the Spirit of Carolina and, aboard the Spirit of Charleston and the General Beauregard, 2¼-hour daytime cruises that include a one-hour stop at Fort Sumter.

Charleston Harbor Tours (PHONE: 843/722-1112 or 800/344-4483) also runs harbor tours.

Bus Tours

Adventure Sightseeing (PHONE: 843/762-0088 or 800/722-5394) has several motor-coach tours of the historic district, as well as a walking tour; a Friday tour includes the dress parage at the Citadel.

Charleston's Finest Historic Tours (PHONE: 843/577-3311), has itineraries that combine the historic district with visits to plantations.

Doin' the Charleston (PHONE: 843/763-1233 or 800/647-4487), a van tour, supplements its narration with audiovisuals.

Gray Line (PHONE: 843/722-4444) also has tours of the historic district plus a combined bus and boat tour.

Carriage Tours

Horse- and mule-drawn carriage tours provide a great overview of Charleston. They have a set itinerary and cover one of four zones in the historic district; once the carriages have picked up passengers the drivers draw from a lottery to decide which zone each carriage will cover. Go before 5 PM so you'll get to see the residential section. Tours last about an hour and are offered by:

Carolina Polo and Carriage Company (PHONE: 843/577-6767).

Old South Carriage Company (PHONE: 843/723-9712).

Palmetto Carriage Works (PHONE: 843/723-8145).

Ecotours

Barrior Island Eco-tours (PHONE: 843/886-5000), at the Isle of Palms Marina, offers 3-hour pontoon-boat tours to a barrier island, sunset tours, crabbing and fishing expeditions, and even a day camp for kids.

ACE Basin Tours (PHONE: 843/766-9664), of Beaufort, takes you into the ACE (for Ashepoo, Cumbahee, and Edisto Rivers) Basin -- a managed wilderness that includes 350,000 acres of wetlands.

Coastal Expeditions (PHONE: 843/884-7684) offers half-day and full-day naturalist-led kayak tours down historic rivers. You can also rent kayaks.

Special-Interest Tours

Flying High over Charleston (PHONE: 843/569-6148) provides aerial tours.

Gullah Tours (PHONE: 843/763-7551)focuses on local African-American culture.

Private Guides

To hire a private guide, contact Associated Guides of Historic Charleston (PHONE: 843/724-6419) or] Janice Kahn (PHONE: 843/556-0664), who has been doing individualized guiding for more than 25 years.

Walking Tours

Walking tours are given by:

Charleston Strolls (PHONE: 843/766-2080).

Charleston Tea Party Walking Tour (PHONE: 843/577-5896 or 843/722-1779), whose walks include tea in a private garden.

On the Market Tours (PHONE: 843/853-8687).

Original Charleston Walks (PHONE: 843/577-3800 or 800/729-3420).

For a spookier view of the city, take the Ghosts of Charleston (PHONE: 843/723-1670 or 800/854-1670). The same guides also celebrate the city in the Story of Charleston walking tour.

Pests and Other Hazards

Mosquitoes, seasonal black flies, and other insects known to North America proliferate in the humid and often lush Southern states. Exercise common precautions and wear lotions or sprays that keep away such pests.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (under one ounce) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins are rarely seen in circulation; a "golden" dollar coin was introduced in 2000. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

The sales tax in Charleston is 6%.

Tipping

At restaurants, a 15% tip is standard for waiters; up to 20% may be expected at more expensive establishments. The same goes for taxi drivers, bartenders, and hairdressers. Coat-check operators usually expect $1; bellhops and porters should get 50 cents to $1 per bag; hotel maids in upscale hotels should get about $1 per day of your stay. For local sightseeing tours, you may individually tip the driver-guide $1 if he or she has been helpful or informative. Ushers in theaters do not expect tips.

Entering the United States

Citizens of Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom who plan to stay in the United States for fewer than 90 days do not need entry visas. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, Northern Ireland BT1 6EQ, PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE: 04/462-6000 usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Charleston is 843.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (10¢-50¢ for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Offices

You can pick up a schedule of events at the Charleston Visitor Reception and Transportation Center, at 375 Meeting Street, or at area hotels, inns, and restaurants. Also see "Tips for Tourists" each Saturday in the Post & Courier.

The Charleston Area Convention and Visitors Bureau (Box 975, Charleston 29402, PHONE: 843/853-8000 or 800/868-8118, www.charlestoncvb.com) has information on the city and also on Kiawah Island, Seabrook Island, Mount Pleasant, North Charleston, Edisto Island, Summerville, and the Isle of Palms.

The Historic Charleston Foundation (Box 1120, Charleston 29402, PHONE: 843/723-1623, www.historiccharleston.org) has information about the month-long spring Festival of Houses and Gardens.

The Preservation Society of Charleston (Box 521, Charleston 29402, PHONE: 843/722-4630, www.preservationsociety.org) organizes the month-long Fall Candlelight Tours of Homes and Gardens.

South Carolina Department of Parks, Recreation, and Tourism (1205 Pendleton St., Suite 106, Columbia 29201, PHONE: 803/734-0122 or 800/872-3505, www.travelsc.com).

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London W1A 1EN, PHONE: 020/7495-4466).

South Carolina is loveliest in spring, when azaleas, dogwood, and other flowering bushes and trees are in bloom, but flowers brighten every season -- even winter, when pansies and camellias thrive. Between mid-March and mid-April you can catch tours of private mansions in Charleston, and the city is alive with Spoleto events in May and June. For price breaks on the coast, consider visiting in the off-season, October through February, but remember that some restaurants and a few attractions close around that time, and the water may be cool.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Charleston:

January 41-59°F (6-15°C); February 43-60°F (7-16°C); March 49-66°F (9-19°C); April 56-73°F (13-23°C); May 64-81°F (18-27°C); June 71-86°F (22-30°C); July 74-88°F (23-31°C); August 73-88°F (23-31°C); September 69-84°F (21-29°C); October 59-76°F (15-24°C); November 49-67°F (9-19°C); December 42-59°F (6-11°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

You can get around Charleston fairly easily either on foot or using public transportation.

Throughout South Carolina, hills are few and the scenery is remarkable. Greater Charleston has a number of extensive and, in many cases marked, bike routes, as well as numerous local bike clubs. To reach one of these groups, which generally welcome visitors and can provide detailed advice on routes and rental shops, contact the local tourist board or visit the appropriate tourism Web site -- many of the latter have information on or links to area cycling resources. Many tourist boards also distribute bike maps.

Boaters on the Intracoastal Waterway may dock at:

Ashley Marina (33 Lockwood Dr., Medical University of South Carolina, PHONE: 843/722-1996), in Charleston Harbor.

Charleston City Marina (17 Lockwood Dr., Medical University of South Carolina, PHONE: 843/723-5098), in Charleston Harbor.

Wild Dunes Yacht Harbor (PHONE: 843/886-5100) on the Isle of Palms.

CHARTS (196A Concord St., North of Calhoun, PHONE: 843/853-4700) is the only full-service water taxi providing transportation to and from Patriots Point naval and maritime museum. It also offers harbor cruises.

CARTA (Charleston Area Regional Transit Authority; PHONE: 843/724-7420, www.ridecarta.com) bus routes cover most of Charleston; buses run from 5:35 AM until 10 PM, until 1 AM in and to North Charleston. The fare is $1 (free transfers).

Trolley-style DASH (Downtown Area Shuttle) buses, also run by CARTA, provide fast service in the main downtown areas. A single fare is $1; an all-day pass is $3. and a three-day pass costs $7.

I-26 traverses the state from northwest to southeast and terminates at Charleston. U.S. 17, the coast road, passes through Charleston. I-526, also called the Mark Clark Expressway, runs primarily east-west, connecting the West Ashley area to Mount Pleasant.

Car Rentals

Rates begin at $40 a day and $130 a week for an economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

In South Carolina you must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you're under 25.

Rules of the Road

The speed limit on interstates can run as high as 70 mph but is lower in congested areas. You can turn right at a red light unless otherwise noted by street signs. If it's raining and you have your windshield wipers on, you must have your headlights on, too.

In South Carolina, the driver and all occupants of the car must wear safety belts. Children 5 or younger may not ride in the front seat. Children less than one year old or less than 20 lbs. must be in rear-facing safety seats. Children 5 or younger weighing between 20 and 40 lbs. must be in forward-facing safety seats; those weighing between 40 and 80 lbs. must be in a booster seat used with a shoulder belt.

Fares within the city average $3-$4 per trip. Companies include:

Safety Cab (PHONE: 843/722-4066).

Yellow Cab (PHONE: 843/577-6565).

Checker Taxi (PHONE: 843/747-9200).

Charleston Rickshaw Company (21 George St., PHONE: 843/723-5685) has two-adult pedicabs that will take you anywhere in the historic district for about $6-$12.