The Cozumel Airport (CZM) (PHONE: 987/872-0928) is 3 km (2 mi) north of San Miguel. Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to the airport and the current currency conversion rate and is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Cozumel is 3½ hours from New York and Chicago, 4½ hours from Los Angeles, 11¾-hours from London.

Carriers

From the U.S.

Aeroméxico (PHONE: 800/237-6639, www.aeromexico.com) flies nonstop from Atlanta to Cozumel.

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856; 987/872-0487 in Cozumel, www.continental.com) flies nonstop from Houston to Cozumel.

Mexicana (PHONE: 800/531-7921; 987/872-2945 in Cozumel, www.mexicana.com) has nonstop service from Mexico City (it also provides service to Mexico City from many major U.S. airports).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/622-1015 toll free in the U.S., www.usairways.com) flies nonstop on weekends from Charlotte, NC, to Cozumel.

Aerocozumel (PHONE: 987/872-3456 in Cozumel) and Aerocaribe (PHONE: 987/872-0503 in Cozumel), both Mexicana subsidiaries, fly to Cancún and other destinations in Mexico, including Chichén Itzá, Chetumal, Mérida, and Playa del Carmen.

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377, www.britishairways.com) has nonstop flights from London to Mexico City and Cancún.

Air France (PHONE: 0181/742-6600, www.airfrance.com), via Paris.

American (PHONE: 020/8572-5555; 0845/778-4789 outside London, www.aa.com), from London via Chicago, Dallas, or Miami.

Continental (PHONE: 01293/776-464, www.continental.com), from London via Houston and Newark, and from Birmingham and Manchester via Newark.

Delta (PHONE: 800/414-767, www.delta.com), via Atlanta.

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854, www.iberia.com), via Madrid.

KLM (PHONE: 08705/074-074, www.klm.com), via Amsterdam.

Lufthansa (PHONE: 0845/7737-747, www.lufthansa.com), via Frankfurt.

United (PHONE: 0845/8444-777, www.united.com), via Chicago or Washington, D.C.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Shuttle

The colectivo, a van that seats up to eight, takes arriving passengers to their hotels; the fare is about $7. If you want to avoid waiting for the van to fill or for other passengers to be dropped off, you can hire an especial -- an individual van. A trip via an individual van to one of the hotel zones costs about $15; a trip to the city runs about $10.

By Taxi

Because of an agreement between the taxi drivers' and bus drivers' unions, there is taxi service to the airport but not from the airport. Taxis to the airport cost between $8 and $25 from the hotel zones and approximately $5 from downtown.

Passengers-only ferries depart from Playa del Carmen dock (PHONE: 987/873-0067) for the 45-minute trip to the main pier in Cozumel. They leave approximately every hour on the hour from 5 AM to 11 PM (no service at 6 AM, noon, 2, and 8 PM).

Return ferries to Playa del Carmen leave Cozumel's main pier (PHONE: 987/872-1508) every hour on the hour from 4 AM to 10 PM (no ferries at 5 and 11 AM, 1, 7, and 9 PM). Call to verify the times. Bad weather often prompts cancellations.

The car ferry from Puerto Morelos, on the mainland north of Playa del Carmen, is not recommended unless you have lots of time. The trip takes three to four hours, the ferry is infrequent, the departure times aren't convenient, and the fare is about $70 for small cars (more for larger vehicles) plus $6 per passenger.

Banks and Offices

Banks are generally open weekdays 9-3. Many of the larger banks keep a few branches open Saturday from 9 or 10 to 2:30 and Sunday 10-1:30; however, the extended hours are often for deposits or check cashing only. Banks will give you cash advances in pesos (for a fee) if you have a major credit card. Government offices are usually open to the public 8-3; along with banks and most private offices, they're closed on national holidays.

Museums and Sights

Along with theaters and most archaeological sights, museums are closed on Monday, with few exceptions. Museums across the country have free admission on Sunday. Hours are normally 9 to 5 or 6.

Shops

Stores are generally open weekdays and Saturday from 9 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM; in resort areas, shops may also be open on Sunday. In some resort areas and small towns, shops may close for a two-hour lunch break -- about 2-4. Airport shops are open seven days a week.

Arriving in Mexico

Upon entering Mexico, you'll be given a baggage declaration form and asked to itemize what you're bringing into the country. You are allowed to bring in 2 liters of spirits or wine for personal use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; one movie camera and one regular camera and 12 rolls of film for each; and gift items not to exceed a total of $300. If driving across the U.S. border, gift items must not exceed $50. You are not allowed to bring firearms, meat, vegetables, plants, fruit, or flowers into the country.

For U.S. and Canadian travelers, electrical converters are not necessary because Mexico operates on the 60-cycle, 120-volt system; however, many Mexican outlets have not been updated to accommodate three-prong and polarized plugs (those with one larger prong), so to be safe bring an adapter plug. When in Mexico purchase a surge protector for valuable electronic equipment such as computers and stereos.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5531-5225).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Schiller 529, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5724-7900, www.canada.org.mx).

Honorary Consul (Plaza Caracol II, 3er piso, Local 330, Boulevard Kukulcan Km 8.5, Zona Hotelera, Cancún, PHONE: 9/883-3360, www.canada.org.mx).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (José Luis LaGrange 103, 10th floor, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5283-9460).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5207-2089).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5080-2000, www.usembassy-mexico.gov/emenu.html).

Consular Agent (Villa Mar Mall, between Melgar and 5th. Ave., Cozumel, PHONE: 987/872-4574 or 987/872-4485, www.usembassy-mexico.gov/emenu.html).

Air Ambulance (PHONE: 987/872-4070).

Police (Anexo del Palacio Municipal, PHONE: 987/872-0409).

Red Cross (Calle Adolfo Rosada Salas at Av. 20 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-1058).

You're no longer protected by the laws of your native land once you're on Mexican soil. If you get into a scrape with the law, you can call the Citizens' Emergency Center (PHONE: 202/647-5225 weekdays 8:15 AM-10 PM EST; Sat. 9 AM-3 PM; 202/634-3600 after hours and Sun.) in the United States.

You can also call the 24-hour English-language hot line of the Procuraduría de Protección al Turista (Attorney General for the Protection of Tourists; PHONE: 55/5625-8153; 800/482-9832 from the U.S.) in Mexico City; it can provide immediate assistance as well as general, nonemergency guidance.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Both the Centro Medico de Cozumel (Cozumel Medical Center) and the Medical Specialties Center offer 24-hour air-ambulance service and a 24-hour pharmacy. The Centro de Salud (Health Center) offers round-the-clock emergency care.

Centro Medico de Cozumel (Cozumel Medical Center; 1A Sur 101, corner of Av. 50, PHONE: 987/872-3545 or 987/872-5370).

Centro de Salud (Av. 20 Sur at Calle 11, PHONE: 987/872-0140).

Medical Specialties Center (Av. 20 Nte. 425, PHONE: 987/872-1419 or 987/872-2919).

Recompression Chambers

There's a reputable recompression chamber at the Buceo Medico Mexicano (Calle 9 Sur 21-B, PHONE: 987/872-2387; 987/872-1430 24-hr hot line).

The Cozumel Recompression Chamber (San Miguel Clinic, Calle 6 between Avs. 5 and 10, PHONE: 987/872-3070, 987/872-2387, or 987/872-1848) is a fully equipped recompression center.

These chambers, which aim for a 35-minute response time from reef to chamber, treat decompression sickness, commonly known as "the bends," which occurs when divers surface too quickly and nitrogen is absorbed into the bloodstream. Recompression chambers are also used to treat nitrogen narcosis, collapsed lungs, and overexposure to the cold. Consider getting DAN (Divers Alert Network) insurance, which covers dive accidents.

Late-Night Pharmacies

Farmacias Canto (PHONE: 987/872-5377), open 24 hours, delivers to hotels.

Farmacia Dori (Calle Adolfo Rosada Salas, between Avs. 15 and 20 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-0559) is open daily 7 AM-midnight and offers hotel delivery service.

Farmacia Joaquin (north side of plaza, PHONE: 987/872-2520) is open Monday-Saturday 8 AM-10 PM and Sunday 9-1 and 5-9.

In the United States, being direct, efficient, and succinct is highly valued. But in Mexico, where communication tends to be more subtle, this style is often perceived as curt and aggressive. Mexicans are extremely polite, so losing your temper over delays or complaining loudly will get you branded as rude and make people less inclined to help you. Remember that things move at a slow pace here and that there's no stigma attached to being late; accept this gracefully. Learning basic phrases in Spanish such as "please" and "thank you" will make a big difference in how people respond to you.

Boat and Submarine Tours

Atlantis Submarines (Carretera Chankanaab, Km 4, across from Hotel Casa del Mar, PHONE: 987/872-5671, www.goatlantis.com) runs 1½-hour submarine rides that explore the Chankanaab Reef and surrounding area; tickets for the tours are $72 for adults, $36 for children.

Fiesta Cozumel Holidays/American Express (Calle 11 Sur 598, between Avs. 25 and 30, PHONE: 987/872-0725).

Horseback Tours

Aventuras Naturales (Av. 35 No. 1081, PHONE: 987/872-1628, www.aventurasnaturales.com) offers two-hour guided horseback tours. They start at $40 and visit Maya ruins and the beach.

Rancho Buenavista (Av. Rafael Melgar & Calle 11 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-1537) offers four-hour horseback rides through the jungle starting at $65 per person.

Orientation

Tours of the island's sights, including the San Gervasio ruins, El Cedral, Parque Chankanaab, and the Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, cost about $45 a person and can be arranged through travel agencies. Fiesta Cozumel Holidays, which has representatives in most major hotels, and Caribe Tours sell a number of similar tours. Another option is to take a private tour of the island via taxi, which costs about $50 to $70 for the day, depending on which parts of the island you visit.

For fees and schedules, contact:

Caribe Tours (Av. Rafael E. Melgar at Calle 5 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-3100).

Fiesta Cozumel Holidays/American Express (main office: Calle 11 Sur 598, between Avs. 25 and 30, PHONE: 987/872-0725).

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food and Drink

In the Yucatán, the major health risk, known as turista, or traveler's diarrhea, is caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. So stay away from ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for at least 10 minutes (ask: quiero el agua hervida por diez minutos), even when you're brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol (not as strong), both of which can be purchased over the counter; keep in mind, though, that these drugs can complicate more serious illnesses. Drink plenty of purified water or tea; chamomile tea (te de manzanilla) is a good folk remedy and it's readily available in restaurants throughout Mexico. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with Gatorade or a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

When ordering cold drinks at untouristed establishments, skip the ice: sin hielo. (You can usually identify ice made commercially from purified water by its uniform shape and the hole in the center.) Hotels with water-purification systems post signs to that effect in the rooms. Tacos al pastor -- thin pork slices grilled on a spit and garnished with the usual cilantro, onions, and chili peppers -- are delicious but dangerous. It's also a good idea to pass up ceviche, raw fish cured in lemon juice -- a favorite appetizer, especially at seaside resorts. The Mexican Department of Health warns that marinating in lemon juice does not constitute the "cooking" that would make the shellfish safe to eat. Also, be wary of hamburgers sold at street stands, because you can never be certain what meat they are made with (horse meat is common).

Pests and Other Hazards

Caution is advised when venturing out in the Mexican sun. Sunbathers lulled by a slightly overcast sky or the sea breezes can be burned badly in just 20 minutes. To avoid overexposure, use strong sunscreens and avoid the peak sun hours of noon to 2 PM. Sunscreen, including many American brands, can be found in pharmacies, supermarkets, and resort gift shops.

In areas where malaria and dengue, both of which are carried by mosquitoes, are prevalent, use mosquito nets, wear clothing that covers the body, apply repellent containing DEET, and use spray for flying insects in living and sleeping areas. Repellents (repelentes contra moscos) and sprays (repelentes de sprie contra moscos) can be purchased at pharmacies. In some places you see mosquito coils (espirales contra moscos) used; they can be purchased in hardware stores (ferretería) as well as in pharmacies. Also consider taking antimalarial pills if you are doing serious adventure activities in subtropical areas. There is no vaccine to combat dengue, which if you are reasonably healthy is usually not serious (only dengue hemorrhagic fever is potentially fatal).

Spanish is the official language of Mexico, although Indian languages are spoken by approximately 8% of the people and some of these speak no Spanish at all. Basic English is widely understood by most people employed in tourism, less so in the less-developed areas. At the very least, shopkeepers will know the numbers for bargaining purposes.

As in most other foreign countries, knowing the mother tongue has a way of opening doors, so learn some Spanish words and phrases. Mexicans welcome even the most halting attempts to use the language.

The Spanish that is most widely taught outside Mexico is based on Castilian Spanish, which is different from Latin American Spanish not only in pronunciation and grammar but also in vocabulary. Words or phrases that are harmless or commonplace in one Spanish-speaking country can take on salacious or otherwise offensive meanings in another. Unless you are lucky enough to be briefed on these nuances by a native coach, the only way to learn is by trial and error.

The Mexican postal system is notoriously slow and unreliable. Above all, never send packages or expect to receive them, as they may be stolen. (For emergencies, use a courier service or the express-mail service, with insurance). International postal service is all airmail, but even so your letter will take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks to arrive. Service within Mexico can be equally slow.

The local Post office (correos; Calle 7 Sur at Av. Rafael E. Melgar, PHONE: 987/872-0106), six blocks south of the plaza, is open weekdays 8-8, Saturday 9-5, and Sunday 9-1.

Mexican states have postal abbreviations of two or more letters. To send mail to Cozumel, Quintana Roo, use the following Mexican state postal code: Q. Roo.

It costs 4.80 pesos (about 50¢) to send a postcard or letter weighing under 20 grams to the United States or Canada; it's 5.90 pesos (about 60¢) to Europe or Australia.

Holders of American Express cards can receive mail at Fiesta Cozumel Holidays/American Express (Calle 11 Sur 598, between Avs. 25 and 30, PHONE: 987/872-0725 or 987/872-0925), which is open weekdays 8-1 and 5-8, Saturday 8-5.

Receiving Mail

To receive mail in Mexico, you can have it sent to your hotel or use poste restante at the post office. In the latter case, the address must include the words "a/c Lista de Correos" (general delivery), followed by the city, state, postal code, and country. To use this service, you must first register with the post office at which you wish to receive your mail. The post office posts and updates daily a list of names for whom mail has been received. Holders of American Express cards or traveler's checks can have mail sent to them in care of the local American Express office.

ATMs

ATMs (cajeros automáticos) are becoming commonplace in more and more Mexican towns and cities. Cirrus and Plus are the most commonly found networks in Mexico. Before you leave home, ask what the transaction fee will be for withdrawing money in Mexico. (It's usually $3 a pop.) Many Mexican ATMs cannot accept personal identification numbers that have more than four digits; if yours is longer, ask your bank about changing your PIN (número de clave) before you leave home, and keep in mind that processing such a change often takes a few weeks.

If your transaction still cannot be completed -- an annoyingly common occurrence -- chances are that the computer lines are busy or that the machine has run out of money or is being serviced.

For cash advances, plan to use Visa or MasterCard, as many Mexican ATMs don't accept American Express. The ATMs at Banamex, one of the oldest nationwide banks, tend to be the most reliable. Bancomer is another bank with many ATM locations, but they usually provide only cash advances. The newer Serfín banks have reliable ATMs that accept credit cards as well as Plus and Cirrus cards.

Currency

Mexican pesos come in denominations of 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 500-, and 1,000-peso bills. Coins come in denominations of 20, 10, 5, and 1 pesos and 50, 20, 10, and 5 centavos. Many of the coins and bills are very similar, so check carefully.

Check with your bank or the financial pages of a newspaper for current exchange rates. For quick estimates of how much something costs in U.S. dollar terms, divide prices given in pesos by 10. For example, 50 pesos would be about $5.

U.S. dollar bills (but not coins) are widely accepted in many parts of the Yucatán, particularly in Cozumel, where you'll often find prices in shops quoted in dollars. However, you'll get your change in pesos. Many tourist shops and market vendors as well as virtually all hotel service personnel also accept dollars.

Exchanging Money

Most of the banks are in Cozumel's main square and are open weekdays 9-4 or 5. Many change currency all day. Try:

Banamex (Av. 5 Nte., at the plaza, PHONE: 987/872-3411).

Bancomer (Av. 5 Nte., at the plaza, PHONE: 987/872-0550).

Banco Serfín (Calle 1 Sur, between Avs. 5 and 10 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-0930).

Bancrecer (Calle 1 Sur, between Avs. 5 and 10, PHONE: 987/872-4750).

Bital (Av. Rafael E. Melgar 11, PHONE: 987/872-0142).

After banking hours, you can exchange money at Promotora Cambiaria del Centro (Av. 5 Sur between Calles 1 Sur and Adolfo Rosada Salas, PHONE: no phone), open Monday-Saturday 8 AM-9 PM.

The best currency exchange rates are at ATMs, because they're based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. Although the ATM transaction fees abroad may be higher than those you're accustomed to at home, if you take out a fair amount of cash per withdrawal, the transaction fee becomes less of a strike against the exchange rate (in percentage terms). However, most ATMs allow only up to $300 per transaction.

The second-best exchange rates are at banks and casas de cambio (money-exchange houses) have. The difference from one place to another is usually only a few centavos. Bank rates are regulated by the federal government and are therefore invariable, whereas casas de cambio have slightly more variable rates.

Some hotels also exchange money, but for providing you with this convenience they help themselves to a bigger commission than banks.

You can do well at most airport exchange booths, but not necessarily at rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores.

When changing money, count your bills before leaving the bank or casa de cambio, and don't accept any partially torn or taped-together notes; they won't be accepted anywhere. Also, many shop and restaurant owners are unable to make change for large bills. Enough of these encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (small bills) when you exchange money.

Taxes

Quintana Roo has a value-added tax -- called IVA (impuesto de valor agregado) -- of 10%. It is occasionally (and illegally) waived for cash purchases. Other taxes and charges apply for phone calls made from your hotel room.

Hotels in the state of Quintana Roo charge a 12% lodging tax.

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to airport and the current currency conversion rate and is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Tipping

When tipping in Mexico, remember that the minimum wage is the equivalent of $3 a day and that the vast majority of workers in the tourist industry live barely above the poverty line. However, there are Mexicans who think in dollars and know, for example, that in the United States porters are tipped about $2 a bag. Many of them expect the peso equivalent from foreigners and may complain if they feel they deserve more -- you and your conscience must decide. Following are some guidelines. Naturally, larger tips are always welcome.

Porters and bellhops at airports and at moderate and inexpensive hotels: $1 per bag.

Porters at expensive hotels: $2 per person.

Maids: $1 per night (all hotels).

Waiters: 10%-15% of the bill, depending on service (make sure a 10%-15% service charge hasn't already been added to the bill, although this practice is more common in resorts).

Taxi drivers: Tipping is necessary only if the driver helps with your bags -- 5 pesos to 10 pesos should be sufficient, depending on the extent of the help.

Tour guides and drivers: at least $1 per half day, minimum.

Gas-station attendants: 3 pesos to 5 pesos; if they check the oil, tires, etc., tip more.

Parking attendants and theater ushers: 5 pesos to 10 pesos. Some restaurants and theaters charge for valet-parking service; it's still customary to tip the attendant at least 10 pesos.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Mexico

For stays of up to 180 days, Americans must prove citizenship through either a valid passport, certified copy of a birth certificate, or voter-registration card (the last two must be accompanied by a government-issue photo ID). Minors traveling with one parent need notarized permission from the absent parent. For stays of more than 180 days, all U.S. citizens, even infants, need a valid passport to enter Mexico. Minors also need parental permission.

Canadians need only proof of citizenship to enter Mexico for stays of up to six months.

U.K. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Mexico for stays of up to three months.

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to airport and the current currency conversion rate; for example, in Cancún the tax is US$20-US$25. This tax is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Expect to find clean flush toilets, toilet tissue, soap, and running water in the major tourist destinations. Other places should have simple but clean toilets. The more primitive rest rooms, usually in public areas with little tourist traffic, will have no paper, no water at times, and no toilet seats. Some public places, like bus stations, charge one or two pesos to use the facility, but toilet paper is included in the fee. Keep tissues with you, just in case.

The U.S. State Department has warned of "critical levels" of crime against tourists in Mexico, noting an increase in the level of violence of the crimes committed and what appeared to be a significant incidence of sexual assaults against women. Reports indicated that uniformed police officers were on occasion perpetrating the nonviolent crimes, sometimes stopping cars and seeking money.

Many foreigners are aware of Mexico's reputation for corruption. The patronage system is a well-entrenched part of Mexican politics and industry, and workers in the public sector -- notably policemen and customs officials -- are notoriously underpaid. Everyone has heard some horror story about highway assaults, pickpocketing, bribes, or foreigners languishing in Mexican jails. These reports of crimes apply in large part to Mexico City and more-remote areas of Oaxaca and Chiapas. So far, crime is not such a problem in the heartland (cities like San Miguel de Allende), Puerto Vallarta, Cancún, and much of the rest of the country. Pickpocketing is usually the biggest concern.

Use common sense everywhere. Do not pick up hitchhikers or hitchhike yourself. Also, try to use luxury buses (rather than second- or third-class vehicles), which use the safer toll roads -- and it's best to travel only during the day. For the time being, women should not venture alone onto uncrowded beaches, and everyone should avoid urges to get away from it all on your own (even as a couple) to go hiking in remote national parks.

Take only registered hotel taxis or have a hotel concierge call a sitio (stationed cab) -- do not hail taxis on the street under any circumstances. Use ATMs during the day and in big, enclosed commercial areas. Avoid the glass-enclosed street variety of banks where you may be more vulnerable to thieves who force you to withdraw money for them; abduction is also possible. This cannot be stressed strongly enough.

Bear in mind that reporting a crime to the police is often a frustrating experience unless you speak excellent Spanish and have a great deal of patience. If you are the victim of an assault, contact your local consular agent or the consular section of your country's embassy in Mexico City, especially if you need medical attention. For more-detailed information on travel safety, consult the Mexican Ministry of Tourism's Web site at www.safemexico.com.

Women in Mexico

Don't wear a money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a purse, choose one with a zipper and a thick strap that you can drape across your body; adjust the length so that the purse sits in front of you at or above hip level. Store only enough money in the purse to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch once in public.

Women traveling alone are likely to be subjected to piropos (catcalls). To avoid this, don't wear tight or provocative clothes or enter street bars or cantinas alone; in some very conservative rural areas, even sleeveless shirts or Bermuda shorts may seem inappropriate to the locals. Your best strategy is always to ignore the offender, do not speak to him, and go on about your business. If the situation seems to be getting out of hand, don't hesitate to ask someone for help. Piropos are one thing, but more aggressive harassment of women is not considered acceptable behavior. If you express outrage, you should find no shortage of willing defenders.

The options for divers in Cozumel include deep dives, drift dives, shore dives, wall dives, and night dives, as well as theme dives focusing on ecology, archaeology, sunken ships, and photography. There are many dive shops to choose from (more than 100), so look for high safety standards and documented credentials. The best places are those that offer small groups and individual attention, because, next to your equipment, your dive master is the most important aspect of your dive, particularly if you're new to diving.

When diving, stay at least 3 ft above the reef, not just because the coral can sting or cut you but also because coral is easily damaged and grows very slowly: it has taken 2,000 years for it to reach the size you see.

Dive Shops and Tour Operators

Most dive shops can provide everything you need. Equipment rental is relatively inexpensive, ranging from $6 for tanks or a lamp to about $8-$10 for a regulator and BC; underwater-camera rentals can cost as much as $35, video-camera rentals run about $75, and professionally shot and edited videos of your own dive are priced at about $160. Two-tank boat trips and specialty dives range from $45 to $60; most companies also offer one-tank afternoon and night dives for $30-$35. The dive shops handle more than 1,000 divers per day; naturally, many of them run what are called "cattle boats," carrying lots of divers and gear. It's worth the extra money to go out with a smaller group on a fast boat, especially if you're an experienced diver.

Dive shops tend to be competitive, so shop around. Many hotels have their own on-site operations, and there are dozens of dive shops in town. ANOAAT (Aquatic Sports Operators Association; PHONE: 987/872-5955, www.anoaat.com) has listings of affiliated dive operations. Before signing on, ask some experienced divers about any place you're considering, check credentials, and look over the boats and equipment.

Aqua Safari (Av. Rafael E. Melgar 429, between Calles 5 and 7 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-0101).

Blue Bubble (Av. 5 Sur at Calle 3 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-1865).

Carlo Scuba (Carretera Costera Norte, Km 4.5, PHONE: 987/872-0199).

Del Mar Aquatics (Costera Sur, Km 4, PHONE: 987/872-5949).

Dive Cozumel (Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas 72, at Av. 5 Sur, PHONE: 987/872-4167).

Dive Paradise (Avs. Chichén and Pamuul, PHONE: 987/872-5735).

Michelle's Dive Shop (Av. 5 Sur 201, at Calle Adolfo Rosado Salas, PHONE: 987/872-0947).

Pepe Scuba (Carretera Costera Norte, Km 2.5, PHONE: 987/872-3200).

Yucatech Expeditions (Av. 15 Sur 144, PHONE: 987/872-5659).

The country code for Mexico is 52. The area code for Cozumel is 987. All Cozumel phone numbers have seven digits in addition to the three-digit area code.

Many Mexican phones, especially in the better city hotels, have Touch-Tone (digital) circuitry. If you think you'll need to access an automated phone system or voice mail in the United States or elsewhere and you don't know what phone service will be available, it's a good idea to take along a Touch-Tone simulator (you can buy one for about $17 at most electronics stores).

Directory & Operator Information

Directory assistance is 040 nationwide. For international assistance, dial 00 first for an international operator and most likely you'll get one who speaks English; tell the operator in what city, state, and country you require directory assistance, and he or she will connect you with directory assistance there.

International Calls

To make an international call, dial 00 before the country code, area code, and number. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1, the U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64, and South Africa 27.

The country code for Mexico is 52. When calling a Mexico number from abroad, dial the country code and then all of the numbers listed for the entry.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/288-2872 or 800/112-2020).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/021-8000 or 800/674-7000).

Long-Distance Calls

In recent years, Mexico has totally overhauled its area codes. Except for the three largest cities (Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara), towns and cities of all sizes now have three-digit area codes (LADAs) and seven-digit phone numbers. (However, many numbers in brochures and other literature continue to be written in the old style.)

Only 10-digit calls can be connected throughout the country. Two-digit regional codes now precede the old eight-digit numbers for Mexico City (55), Guadalajara (33), and Monterrey (81). To call Mexico City from within Mexico, you must still dial 01, then the new regional code (55) followed by the old eight-digit number. From outside the country, you now dial the country code (52) followed by the 10-digit number. In other areas in Mexico, the old eight-digit numbers drop their first number and are preceded by the new three-digit regional codes, such as 987 for Cozumel.

Public Phones

The least expensive way to make an international call is to buy a Ladatel phone card (sold in blocks of $3, $5, $10, and $20) and use the TELMEX public phones. To use a Ladatel card, simply insert it in the appropriate slot, dial 001 (for calls to the States) or 01 (for calls in Mexico) and the area code and number you're trying to reach. Local calls may also be placed with the card. Credit is deleted from the card as you use it, and your balance is displayed on a small screen on the phone.

The TELMEX phones can be hard to find, as they are being replaced with private services' blue and red phones that urge you to "pick up and dial zero" and have very high rates. However, you can make local calls from these phones using peso coins. Local calls start at the equivalent of about 10¢.

An alternative to the phone card is the caseta de larga distancia -- the long-distance telephone office. There's an office on Calle 1, on the south side of the plaza; it's open 8-1 and 4-9. These offices have specially designed booths where you take your call after the number has been dialed by a clerk.

More expensive than the TELMEX phones but handier is the Calling Station, at Avenida Rafael E. Melgar 27 and Calle 3 Sur. It also offers video and cell-phone rentals, currency exchange, and Internet access and is open 8 AM-11 PM daily during high season.

Toll-free numbers in Mexico start with an 800 prefix. To reach them, you need to dial 01 before the number. We print Mexico-only toll-free numbers as follows: 01-800/12-345 (numbers can also have six or seven digits). The 800 numbers listed simply 800/123-4567 work in the U.S. only.

Tourist Offices

In Cozumel

The island's official Web site is www.islacozumel.com.mx.

The Cozumel Island Hotel Association (Calle 2 Nte. at Av. 15, PHONE: 987/872-3132, FAX: 987/872-2809) offers information on affiliated hotels and tour operators.

The state tourism office, Fidecomiso (tourism office: upstairs at Plaza del Sol, at east end of main square, 987/872-0972), is open weekdays 9-2:30.

At Home

The Mexico Tourism Board has many locations:

In the United States (PHONE: 800/446-3942 nationwide; 21 East 63rd St., 3rd floor, New York, NY 10021, PHONE: 212/821-0314, FAX: 212/821-0367; 300 North Michigan Ave., 4th floor, Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/606-9252, FAX: 312/606-9012; 2401 West 6th St., 5th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 213/351-2075, FAX: 213/351-2074; 4507 San Jacinto, Suite 308, Houston, TX 77096, PHONE: 713/772-2581, FAX: 713/772-6058; 1200 NW 78th Ave., Suite 203, Coral Gables, FL 33126, PHONE: 305/718-4095, FAX: 305/718-4098).

In Canada (1 Place Ville Marie, Suite 1931, Montréal, Québec H3B 2C3, PHONE: 514/871-1052, FAX: 514/871-3825; 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/925-0704, FAX: 416/925-6061; 999 W. Hastings St., Suite 110, Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 2W2, PHONE: 604/669-2845, FAX: 604/669-3498).

In the United Kingdom (42 Hertford St., London W1Y 7TF, PHONE: 020/7488-9392, FAX: 020/7265-0705).

In Mexico (Presidente Masaryk 172, D.F. 11550, PHONE: 55/5250-0123 or 800/903-9200).

High season along the Mexican Caribbean runs from mid-December through the week after Easter. The most popular vacation times are Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter) and the week from Christmas to New Year's. Most hotels are booked well in advance for these holiday periods, when prices are at their highest and armies of travelers swarm popular attractions. Resorts popular with college students (i.e. any place with a beach) tend to fill up in the summer months.Off-season price changes are considerable at the beach resorts. To avoid crowds, and high prices, the best times to go are October and March-May.December to May is usually pleasant along the coast, although you may experience some afternoon rain and winds; in autumn, storms are common. The steamiest times of year both on the coast and inland are late spring and in August and early September, just before the rainy season.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Cozumel:

January 66-84°F (19-29°C); February 66-84°F (19-29°C); March 69-88°F (21-31°C); April 71-89°F (22-32°C); May 73-91°F (23-33°C); June 75-89°F (24-32°C); July 73-91°F (23-33°C); August 73-91°F (23-33°C); September 75-89°F (24-32°C); October 73-87°F (23-31°C); November 71-86°F (22-30°C); December 68-84°F (20-29°C).

Holidays

Banks and government offices close on January 1, February 5 (Day of the Constitution), March 21 (Benito Juárez's birthday), May 1 (Labor Day), September 16 (Independence Day), November 20 (Day of the Revolution), and December 25. They may also close on unofficial holidays, such as Day of the Dead (November 2), and during Holy Week (the days leading to Easter Sunday). Government offices usually have reduced hours and staff from Christmas through New Year's Day.

Cozumel is 53 km (33 mi) long and 15 km (9 mi) wide and, aside from the road leading to Punta Molas, has excellent paved roads.

Because of a union agreement with taxi drivers, public buses cannot operate in the North and South Hotel zones; local bus service runs mainly within the town of San Miguel, although there is a route from town to the airport. Service is irregular but inexpensive.

You will need a car in Cozumel only if you wish to explore the eastern side of the island. To reach the more secluded beaches and ruins you will need a jeep or some other vehicle with four-wheel drive.

There are two gas stations on Cozumel: one at the corner of Avenida Benito Juárez and Avenida 30 on the way to San Gervaiso, the other on Pedro Joaquin Coldwell and Avenida Benito Juárez. Both are open daily 7 AM-midnight.

Car Rentals

All the large hotels have rental offices, and most of the major car-rental companies have a location at the airport. Rental rates start at about $40 a day. Insurance doesn't cover trips off the main roads. Many of the smaller companies carry only standard transmission cars, so request an automatic in advance.

Major Agencies in Cozumel

Avis (PHONE: 987/872-0099 airport).

Hertz (PHONE: 987/872-3888 airport).

Local Agencies

Aguila Rentals (Calle 11 No. 101, PHONE: 987/872-0729).

Cocodrilos Car Rental (Av. Rafael E. Melgar 601, PHONE: 987/872-5030).

Rentadora Islena (Calle 7 No. 49, PHONE: 987/872-0788).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; www.alamo.com). Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com). Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

There are two absolutely essential points to remember about driving in Mexico. First and foremost is to carry Mexican auto insurance. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could well be jailed -- whether it was your fault or not -- unless you have insurance. Guilty until proven innocent is part of the country's Code Napoléon. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance to cover you for the duration of your trip. Insurance is sold by the day, and if your trip turns out to be shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a refund for the unused time if you apply after you leave the country.

Point No. 2: if you enter Mexico with a car, you must leave with it. In recent years, the high rate of U.S. vehicles being sold illegally in Mexico has caused the Mexican government to enact stringent regulations for bringing a car into the country -- at great inconvenience to motoring American tourists. You must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a birth certificate or passport; a credit card (AE, DC, MC, or V); a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit-card owner must be one and the same -- that is, if your spouse's name is on the title of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed, leased, rental, or company cars, you must bring a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company.

When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay the $20 fee by credit card, you'll receive a car permit and a sticker to put on your vehicle, both valid for up to six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border before they expire; otherwise you could incur high fines.

One way to avoid this border hassle is to have your paperwork done in advance at a branch of Sanborn's Mexican Insurance; look in the Yellow Pages for an office in almost every town on the U.S.-Mexico border. You'll still have to go through some of the procedures at the border, but all your paperwork will be in order, and Sanborn's express window will ensure that you get through relatively quickly. There's a $10 charge for this service. The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face.

If you bring the car into the country you must be in the vehicle whenever it is being driven. You cannot lend it to another person.

For day trips and local sightseeing, consider engaging a car and driver (who often acts as a guide) for a day; this can be a hassle-free, more economical way to travel than renting a car and driving yourself. Hotel desks will know which taxi companies to call, and you can negotiate a price with the driver.

Requirements

In Mexico your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the U.S. and Canadian automobile associations, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

Road Conditions

In rural areas, roads are quite poor: use caution, especially during the rainy season, when rock slides and potholes are a problem, and watch out for animals. Generally, driving times are longer than for comparable distances in the United States. Topes (speed bumps) are also common; it's best to slow down when approaching a village.

Signage is not always adequate in Mexico, so travel with a companion and a good map. Always lock your car, and never leave valuable items in the body of the car (the trunk will suffice for daytime outings, but don't pack it in front of prying eyes).

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you should receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. Read it in order to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your country.

Illegally parked cars are either towed or have wheel blocks placed on the tires, which can require a trip to the traffic-police headquarters for payment of a fine. When in doubt, park in a lot instead of on the street; your car will probably be safer there anyway.

If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in daytime, slow down: it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. One-way streets are common. One-way traffic is indicated by an arrow; two-way, by a double-pointed arrow. A circle with a diagonal line superimposed on the letter E (for estacionamiento) means "no parking." Other road signs follow the now-widespread system of international symbols, a copy of which will usually be provided when you rent a car in Mexico.

Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. A few of the newer toll roads allow 110 kph (68 mph). In cities and small towns, observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph).

Seat belts are now required by law throughout Mexico.

Cabs wait at all the major hotels. The fixed rates run about $1.50 within town; $5-$8 between town and either hotel zone; $10 from most hotels to the airport; and about $20-$40 from the northern hotels or town to Parque Chankanaab or Playa San Francisco. The cost from the cruise-ship terminal to San Miguel is about $6. Prices quoted by the drivers should be in pesos. Tipping isn't necessary, as most drivers own their vehicles. Despite the established taxi fares, many of the younger and quite aggressive cab drivers have begun charging double or even triple these rates. If you have to take a taxi, be firm on a price before getting into the car.