All flights use Edmonton International Airport (YEG) (Hwy. 2, PHONE: 780/890-8900), 20 km, or 12 mi, south of downtown.

An airport-improvement fee of $5 is assessed on all flight departures within Alberta, $10 for departures outside Alberta; you pay this at the airport.

Carriers

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 888/247-2262).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525).

Smaller Airlines

Horizon Air (PHONE: 800/547-9308).

From the U.K.

Air Canada (PHONE: 0870/524-7226).

Within Canada

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Car

Downtown is 20 km, or 12 mi, north of the airport on Highway 2.

By Taxi

Taxi rides from Edmonton International cost approximately $29 to the city center.

The Sky Shuttle (PHONE: 780/465-8515) provides frequent service between the airport and major downtown hotels; fare is $11 one-way, $18 round-trip.

Greyhound Bus Lines (PHONE: 800/661-8747) provides service to Edmonton.

Edmonton is on the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), which runs from Winnipeg, Manitoba, through the central parts of Saskatchewan and Alberta. This highway is four lanes and divided through most of Alberta; it intersects with the four-lane divided Highway 2, which runs south to Calgary.

Banks & Offices

Most banks in Canada are open Monday through Thursday 10-3 and Friday 10-5 or 6. Some banks are open longer hours and also on Saturday morning. All banks are closed on national holidays.

Gas Stations

Most highway and city gas stations in Canada are open seven days a week (although there is rarely a mechanic on duty Sunday) and some are open around the clock. In small towns, gas stations are often closed on Sunday, although they may take turns staying open.

Museums & Sights

Museum hours vary, but most open at 10 or 11 and close in the evening. Some smaller museums close for lunch. Many museums are closed on Monday; some make up for it by staying open late on Wednesday (for free).

The days when churches were always open are gone; vandalism, theft, and the drop in general piety have seen to that. But the major churches in big cities -- the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montréal, for example -- are open daily, usually about 9-6.

Shops

Stores, shops, and supermarkets tend to be open Monday through Saturday 9-6, although in major cities supermarkets are often open 7:30 AM-9 PM. Blue laws are in effect in much of Canada, but a growing number of provinces have stores with limited Sunday hours, usually noon-5 (shops in areas highly frequented by tourists are usually open Sunday). Retail stores often stay open Thursday and Friday evenings, most shopping malls until 9 PM. Drugstores in major cities are often open until 11 PM, and convenience stores usually are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

When shopping, keep receipts for all purchases. Upon reentering the country, be ready to show customs officials what you've bought. If you feel a duty is incorrect or object to the way your clearance was handled, note the inspector's badge number and ask to see a supervisor. If the problem isn't resolved, write to the appropriate authorities, beginning with the port director at your point of entry.

U.S. Customs and Immigration has preclearance services at international airports in Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Winnipeg, Ottawa, and Montréal. This allows U.S.-bound air passengers to depart their airplane directly on arrival at their U.S. destination without further inspection and delays.

Arriving in Edmonton

American and British visitors may bring in the following items duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, and 7 ounces of tobacco; 1 bottle (1.1 liters or 40 imperial ounces) of liquor or wine, or 24 355-ml (12-ounce) bottles or cans of beer for personal consumption. Any alcohol and tobacco products in excess of these amounts is subject to duty, provincial fees, and taxes. You can also bring in gifts up to the value of $60 (Canadian) per gift.

A deposit is sometimes required for trailers (refunded upon return). Cats and dogs must have a certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian that clearly identifies the animal and certifies that it has been vaccinated against rabies during the preceding 36 months. Seeing-eye dogs are allowed into Canada without restriction. Plant material must be declared and inspected. There may be restrictions on some live plants, bulbs, and seeds. With certain restrictions or prohibitions on some fruits and vegetables, visitors may bring food with them for their own use, providing the quantity is consistent with the duration of the visit.

Canada's firearms laws are significantly stricter than those in the U.S. All handguns and semiautomatic and fully automatic weapons are prohibited and cannot be brought into the country. Sporting rifles and shotguns may be imported provided they are to be used for sporting, hunting, or competition while in Canada. All firearms must be declared to Canada Customs at the first point of entry. Failure to declare firearms will result in their seizure, and criminal charges may be made. As of January 1, 2001, regulations require visitors to have a confirmed "Firearms Declaration" to bring any guns into Canada. A fee of $50 will apply and will be good for a one-year period. For more information, contact the Canadian Firearms Centre.

All embassies are in Ottawa; there are consulates in some major cities.

Australia

Australian High Commission (50 O'Connor St., Suite 710, PHONE: 613/236-0841).

New Zealand

New Zealand High Commission (99 Bank St., Suite 727, PHONE: 613/238-5991).

United Kingdom

British High Commission (80 Elgin St., PHONE: 613/237-1530).

United States

U.S. Embassy (100 Wellington St., PHONE: 613/238-5335).

Ambulance, fire, poison center, police (PHONE: 911).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Royal Alexandra Hospital (10240 Kingsway Ave., PHONE: 780/477-4111).

University of Alberta Hospitals (8440 112th St., PHONE: 780/492-8822).

Out an' About Tours (PHONE: 780/909-8687) and Magic Times Tour & Convention Services (PHONE: 780/940-7479) offer half- and full-day itineraries that hit the high points of the city or surrounding sights. Customized tours can also be scheduled.

Klondike Jet Boats (PHONE: 780/486-0896) ply the North Saskatchewan River May through October.

The Edmonton Queen (PHONE: 780/424-2628) paddlewheeler cruises the North Saskatchewan River from May through September. Some excursions include lunch or dinner and dancing.

Although English and French are the official languages of Canada, English is the predominant language in Alberta.

In Canada you can buy stamps at the post office or from automatic vending machines in most hotel lobbies, railway stations, airports, bus terminals, many retail outlets, and some newsstands. If you're sending mail to Canada, be sure to include the postal code (six digits and letters). Note that the suite number often appears before the street number in an address, followed by a hyphen.

Following are postal abbreviations for provinces and territories: Alberta, AB; British Columbia, BC; Manitoba, MB; New Brunswick, NB; Newfoundland and Labrador, NF; Northwest Territories and Nunavut, NT; Nova Scotia, NS; Ontario, ON; Prince Edward Island, PE; Québec, PQ; Saskatchewan, SK; Yukon, YT.

Postal Rates

Within Canada, postcards and letters up to 30 grams cost 48¢; between 31 grams and 50 grams, the cost is 77¢; and between 51 grams and 100 grams, the cost is 96¢. Letters and postcards to the United States cost 65¢ for up to 30 grams, 90¢ for between 31 and 50 grams, and $1.40 for up to 100 grams. Prices include GST (Goods and Services Tax).

International mail and postcards run $1.25 for up to 30 grams, $1.75 for 31 to 50 grams, and $3 for 51 to 100 grams.

Receiving Mail

Visitors may have mail sent to them c/o General Delivery in the town they are visiting, for pickup in person within 15 days, after which it will be returned to the sender.

Unless otherwise stated, all prices in this guide, including dining and lodging, are given in Canadian dollars.

The following typical prices are for Toronto (prices in other cities and regions are often lower): A soda costs $1.25-$1.75; a glass of beer, $3-$6; a sandwich, $3.50-$6; a taxi, as soon as the meter is turned on, $2.50, and $1 for every kilometer (5¢, 10¢, 25¢, etc.). The $1 and $2 bill are no longer used; they have been replaced by $1 and $2 coins (known as a "loonie," because of the loon that appears on the coin, and a "toonie," respectively).

Throughout this guide, unless otherwise stated, all prices, including dining and lodging, are given in Canadian dollars.

Exchanging Money

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, hotels, restaurants, or stores. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

Exchange Services

International Currency Express (PHONE: 888/278-6628 for orders, www.foreignmoney.com).

Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362 for telephone orders and retail locations, www.us.thomascook.com).

Taxes

A goods and services tax (GST) of 7% applies on virtually every transaction in Canada except for the purchase of basic groceries.

In addition to imposing the GST, all provinces except Alberta, the Northwest Territories, and the Yukon levy a sales tax from 6% to 12% on most items purchased in shops, on restaurant meals, and sometimes on hotel rooms. In Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick, the single harmonized sales tax (HST) of 15% is used.

GST Refunds

You can get a GST refund on purchases taken out of the country and on short-term accommodations of less than one month (but not on food, drink, tobacco, car or motor home rentals, or transportation); rebate forms, which must be submitted within 60 days of leaving Canada, may be obtained from certain retailers, duty-free shops, customs officials, or from Revenue Canada. Instant cash rebates up to a maximum of $500 are provided by some duty-free shops when leaving Canada, and most provinces do not tax goods that are shipped directly by the vendor to the purchaser's home. Always save your original receipts from stores and hotels (not just credit-card receipts), and be sure the name and address of the establishment is shown on the receipt. Original receipts are not returned. To be eligible for a refund, receipts must total at least $200, and each individual receipt must show a minimum purchase of $50.

Information

Revenue Canada (Visitor Rebate Program, Summerside Tax Centre, 275 Pope Rd., Suite 104, Summerside, PE C1N 6C6, PHONE: 902/432-5608; 800/668-4748 in Canada).

Tipping

Tips and service charges are not usually added to a bill in Canada. In general, tip 15% of the total bill. This goes for waiters, waitresses, barbers and hairdressers, and taxi drivers. Porters and doormen should get about $1 a bag (or more in a luxury hotel). For maid service, leave at least $2 a day ($3 in luxury hotels).

Entering Edmonton

Citizens and legal residents of the United States do not need a passport or a visa to enter Canada, but proof of citizenship (a birth certificate or valid passport) and some form of photo identification will be requested. Naturalized U.S. residents should carry their naturalization certificate. Permanent residents who are not citizens should carry their "green card." U.S. residents entering Canada from a third country must have a valid passport, naturalization certificate, or "green card."

Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Canada for stays of up to six months.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410; www.ukpa.gov.uk/ukpass.htm) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for Canada is 1. The area code for Edmonton and elsewhere in Alberta is 403. You do not need to dial the three-digit area code when making a call from within the same code. When calling a number in another area code, dial a 1 followed by the area code and the telephone number. Telephone numbers beginning with 800 or 888 are toll-free numbers that can be dialed without charge from anywhere in the country.

Credit-Card Calls

AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288).

MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000).

Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Directory & Operator Information

For operator assistance, dial "0." For directory assistance in Canada, dial the area code followed by 555-1212; dial 1 before the area code if the area code is not the same as the one you are calling from.

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones. If you're dialing Canada from the United States, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number. If you're dialing the United States from Canada, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number.

To call Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, or other countries except the U.S. from Canada, dial 011 followed by the appropriate country code, city code, and number. For operator assistance, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country codes are 44 for Great Britain, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand. To dial Canada from these countries, you should be able to dial 001 followed by the area code and telephone number.

Long-Distance Calls

To dial another province or an area of the same province that has a different area code, dial 1 followed by the area code and number.

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States and Canada relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

Public Phones

Pay telephones take coins, and charge phones are found in many locations, including airports and shopping malls. These phones can be used to charge a call to a telephone company card, your home, or the party you are calling.

Tourist Offices

In Edmonton

Edmonton Tourism Information Centre is at Gateway Park (Hwy. 2, south of downtown, PHONE: 780/496-8400 or 800/463-4667, www.tourism.ede.org). For the locations of other centers around Edmonton, call the above number.

From June through August you're likely to encounter more festivals and the greatest number of open lodgings (some close seasonally). However, the spring and fall months provide a more tranquil experience for travelers; September can be particularly rewarding, with a combination of warm weather and autumn foliage. On some spring nights the northern lights -- the aurora borealis -- are visible from Edmonton.

Climate

Unless you enjoy bone-chilling cold temperatures and deep snow, it's best to skip visiting this part of Canada in the winter. Edmonton averages 12 hours of sunshine a day, more than any other major Canadian city. In the summer there are almost 17 hours of daylight a day and temperatures are in the mid-20s (C). The fall is warm to cool, with the first snow in late October.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Edmonton:

January 2-23°F (-17 to -5°C); February 8-29°F (-13 to -2°C); March 14-34°F (-10 to 1°C); April 27-49°F (-3 to 9°C); May 37-61°F (3-16°C); June 44-67°F (7-19°C); July 49-74°F (9-23°C); August 47-72°F (8-22°C); September 39-63°F (4-17°C); October 30-54°F (-1 to 12°C); November 17-38°F (-8 to 3°C); December 8-29°F (-13 to -2°C).

National Holidays

Canadian national holidays: New Year's Day, Good Friday (April 21), Easter Monday (April 24), Victoria Day (May 22), Canada Day (July 1), Labour Day (September 4), Thanksgiving (October 9), Remembrance Day (November 11), Christmas, and Boxing Day (December 26).

Provincial Holidays

Alberta: Heritage Day (August 7). British Columbia: British Columbia Day (August 7). New Brunswick: New Brunswick Day (August 7). Newfoundland: St. Patrick's Day (March 20), St. George's Day (April 24), Discovery Day (June 26), Memorial Day (July 1), Orangemen's Day (July 10). Manitoba, Northwest Territories, Ontario, Saskatchewan, and Nova Scotia: Civic Holiday (August 7). Nunavut: Nunavut Day (April 1). Québec: St. Jean Baptiste Day (June 24). Yukon: Discovery Day (August 21).

Edmonton Transit (PHONE: 780/496-1611) operates a comprehensive system of buses throughout the area and a light rail transit (LRT) line from downtown to the northeast side of the city. The fare is $1.65; transfers are free. Buses operate 5:30 AM to 2 AM. The LRT is free in the downtown area (between Churchill and Grandin stations) weekdays 9 to 3 and Saturday 9 to 6.

The Edmonton Transit Information Centre (102A Ave. and 99 St.) at Churchill Station provides information weekdays 9:30 to 5.

Car Rentals

Compact car rental rates begin at about C$50 a day.

In Edmonton

Avis (PHONE: 800/879-2847).

Budget (PHONE: 800/268-8900).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/263-0600).

Thrifty (PHONE: 800/367-2277).

National (PHONE: 800/387-4747).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 0181/897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Insurance

Drivers must carry owner registration and proof of insurance coverage, which is compulsory in Canada. The Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S. insurance company, is accepted as evidence of financial responsibility in Canada. The minimum liability coverage in Canada is $200,000, except in Québec, where the minimum is $50,000. If you are driving a car that is not registered in your name, carry a letter from the owner that authorizes your use of the vehicle.

Requirements

In Canada your own driver's license is acceptable. Some provinces have age restrictions on younger drivers. In Ontario, for example, drivers must be 21; in Québec, drivers under 25 often have to pay a surcharge of $5 a day. Rental-car companies have not set an upper age limit.

Road Conditions

In winter, make sure your car is winterized. Snow tires are recommended.

Rules of the Road

By law, you are required to wear seat belts (and to use infant seats). Some provinces have a statutory requirement to drive with vehicle headlights on for extended periods after dawn and before sunset. In the Yukon, the law requires that you drive with your headlights on when using territory highways. Right turns are permitted on red signals in all provinces except Québec. Radar-detection devices are illegal in many provinces, and their possession (even if they are not operating) in a car is illegal in the provinces of Ontario and Québec.

Speed limits, given in kilometers, vary from province to province, but they are usually within the 90-100 kph (50-60 mph) range outside the cities.

Taxis tend to be costly: $2.20 for the first 105 meters, and 10¢ for each additional 105 meters. Cabs may be hailed on the street, but phoning is recommended.

Alberta Co-op Taxi (PHONE: 780/425-8310).

Checker (PHONE: 780/484-8888).

Yellow (PHONE: 780/462-3456).