There are two major gateways to Italy:

Rome's Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, known as Fiumicino (FCO) (35 km [20 mi] southeast of Rome, PHONE: 06/5953640, www.adr.it), offers international travelers connections for an Alitalia flight to Florence.

Milan's Aeroporto Malpensa (MXP) (45 km [28 mi] north of Milan, PHONE: 02/7485-2200, www.sea-aeroportimilano.it) is served by intercontinental flights and has Alitalia connections to Florence.

Pisa's Aeroporto Galileo Galilei (12 km [7 mi] south of Pisa and 80 km [50 mi] west of Florence, PHONE: 050/500707, www.pisa-airport.com) is the closest landing point with significant international service.

Florence's Aeroporto A. Vespucci, called Peretola (10 km [6 mi] northwest of Florence, PHONE: 055/373498, www.safnet.it), services flights from Milan, Rome, London, and Paris.

For flight information, call the Florence Air Terminal (Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/216073) or Aeroporto Galileo Galilei.

Flying time to Milan and Rome is approximately 8½ hours from New York, 10-11 hours from Chicago, 11½ hours from Dallas (via New York), 11½ hours from Los Angeles, 2 hours from London (to Milan), and 23½ hours from Sydney.

Carriers

On international flights, Alitalia serves Rome and Milan. The major international hubs in Italy are Milan and Rome, served by Continental Airlines and Delta Air Lines. American Airlines, United Airlines, and Northwest Airlines fly into Milan. US Airways serves Rome.

Direct service from Heathrow and Gatwick is provided by Alitalia and British Airways (BA). From Manchester, there are two direct BA flights daily to Milan, and daily flights to Rome. Smaller, no-frills airlines also provide service between Great Britain and Italy. Easy Jet connects London with Bologna, Virgin Express London and Rome (via Brussels), British Midland London and Milan, and Ryanair, departing from London Stansted, has daily flights connecting London with a number of cities in Italy. Privately run Meridiana has three direct flights daily between London and Florence throughout the year.

Alitalia and Air Canada have the most flights connecting Canada and Italy. Qantas flies from various cities in Australia via Bangkok, arriving in Rome. Alitalia and New Zealand Air fly from Auckland to Rome with a stop in London. Other options to consider if you're coming from either Australia or New Zealand are Thai Airlines (with a stop in Bangkok, landing in Rome), Malayasian Air (with a stop in Kuala Lumpur, landing in Rome), and Singapore Air (via Singapore).

Alitalia -- in addition to other major European airlines and smaller, privately run companies such as Meridiana and Air One -- offers an extensive network of flights within Italy. Ask your domestic or Italian travel agent about discounts.

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 888/247-2262 in the U.S. and Canada; 08705/247-226 in the U.K.; 06/6557117 in Rome; 800/919091 elsewhere in Italy, www.aircanada.com).

Air New Zealand (www.airnz.com).

Alitalia (PHONE: 800/223-5730 in the U.S.; 0870/544-8259 in the U.K.; 61/292-44-2222 in Australia; 06/65641 in Rome; 848/865641 elsewhere in Italy, www.alitalia.it).

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300 in U.S.; 02/679141 in Milan, www.aa.com).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/AIRWAYS in the U.S. and Canada; 0845/77-333-77 in the U.K.; 02/8904-8800 in Australia; 09/356-8690 in New Zealand; 199/712266 toll-free in Italy, www.britishairways.com).

Continental Airlines (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in U.S.; 02/69633256 in Milan; 800/296230 elsewhere in Italy, www.flycontinental.com).

Delta Air Lines (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in U.S.; 800/864114 in Italy, www.deltaairlines.com).

Northwest Airlines (PHONE: 800/225-2525 in the U.S. and Canada; 08705/074-074 in the U.K.; 1300/303-744 in Australia; 02/218981 in Italy, www.nwa.com).

Malaysia Air (PHONE: 888/359-8655 in the U.S.; 618/453-2113 in Canada; the U.K.; Australia; and New Zealand, www.malaysiaair.com).

Qantas (PHONE: 06/52482725 in Rome, www.qantas.com).

Thai Airlines (www.thaiair.com).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522 in the U.S.; 02/69633707 in Milan, www.ual.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; 848/813177 in Italy, www.usairways.com).

Smaller Airlines

Air One (PHONE: 06/488800 in Rome; 848/848880 elsewhere in Italy, www.flyairone.it).

Easy Jet (PHONE: 0870/6076543 in the U.K., www.easyjet.com).

Meridiana (PHONE: 199/111333 in Italy, www.meridiana.it).

Ryanair (PHONE: 08701/569569 in U.K.; 199/114114 in Italy, www.ryanair.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

A local bus service runs from Peretola into Florence. Buy a ticket at the second-floor bar. Take Bus 62, which goes directly from the airport to the train station at Santa Maria Novella; the bus shelter is beyond the parking lot.

There's no direct bus service from Pisa's airport to Florence. Buses do go to and from Pisa, but then you have to change to a slow train service.

By Car

To get into Florence from Peretola by car, take the autostrada A11.

Take the S67 from Pisa's Aeroporto Galileo Galilei; it leads directly to Florence.

By Train

No train service exists between downtown Florence and Peretola.

A scheduled service connects the station at Pisa's Aeroporto Galileo Galilei with Florence's Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella, roughly a one-hour trip. Trains start running about 7 AM from the airport, 6 AM from Florence, and continue service every hour until about 11:30 PM from the airport, 8 PM from Florence. You can check in for departing flights at the air terminal office, which is just around the corner from train tracks 1 and 2.

Long-distance buses provide inexpensive if somewhat claustrophobic service between Florence and other cities in Italy and Europe. One operator is SITA; you can also try Lazzi Eurolines.

More information is available from:

Lazzi Eurolines (Via Mercadante 2, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/363041, www.lazzi.it).

SITA (Via Santa Caterina da Siena 17/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/214721).

Florence is connected to the north and south of Italy by the Autostrada del Sole (A1). It takes about one hour of driving on scenic roads to get to Bologna (although heavy truck traffic over the Apennines often makes for slower going), about 3 hours to Rome, and 3 to 3½ hours to Milan. The Tyrrhenian Coast is an hour west on A11.

For assistance or information, call the ACI (Automobile Club Firenze; PHONE: 055/2486246).

Florence is on the principal Italian train route between most European capitals and Rome, and within Italy it is served frequently from Milan, Venice, and Rome by Intercity (IC) and nonstop Eurostar trains.

Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella (PHONE: 8488/888088) is the main station and is in the center of town. Be sure to avoid trains that stop only at the Campo di Marte or Rifredi stations, which are not convenient to the center.

The fastest trains on the Ferrovie dello Stato (FS), the Italian State Railways, are the Eurostar trains, operating on several main lines, including Rome-Milan via Florence and Bologna. Supplement is included in the fare; seat reservations are mandatory at all times. Ask for seats located away from the smoking car, as the poorly designed partitions are not smoke-proof. Some Eurostar trains (the ETR 460 trains) have little aisle and luggage space (though there is a space near the door where you can put large bags). To avoid having to squeeze through narrow aisles, board only at your car (look for the number on the reservation ticket). Car numbers are displayed on their exterior. Next-fastest trains are the Intercity (IC) trains, for which you pay a supplement and for which seat reservations may be required and are always advisable. Interregionale trains usually make more stops and are a little slower. Regionale and locale trains are the slowest; many serve commuters.

For more information, contact Ferrovie dello Stato (FS; PHONE: 848/888088 in Italy, www.trenitalia.it).

Banks and Post Offices

Banks are open weekdays 8:30 to 1:30 and 2:45 to 3:45. Most churches are open from early morning until noon or 12:30, when they close for three hours or more; they open again in the afternoon, closing about 6 PM.

Post offices are open Monday-Saturday 9-2; central and main district post offices stay open until 6:30 PM weekdays, 9-2 on Saturday. On the last day of the month all post offices close at midday.

Museums and Sights

A few major churches are open all day. Note that sightseeing in churches during religious rites is discouraged. Museum hours vary and often change with the seasons. Many museums are closed one day a week, often on Monday. During low season, hours are often abbreviated; during high season, many places stay open until late at night.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are generally open on weekdays from 8:30 to 1 and from 4 to 8, and on Saturday mornings from 9 to 1. Local pharmacies cover the off-hours in shifts: on the door of every pharmacy is a list of which pharmacies in the vicinity will be open on Saturday afternoon, Sunday, or 24 hours.

Shops

Most shops are open daily except Sunday from 9 to 1 and from 3:30 or 4 to 7:30. Clothing shops are generally closed on Monday mornings. Barbers and hairdressers, with some exceptions, do not work on Sunday and Monday. Some bookstores and fashion and tourist-oriented shops are open all day, as well as on Sunday. Chain supermarkets such as Standa have continuous hours and are open on Sunday; smaller alimentari (delicatessens) and other food shops are usually closed one evening during the week (it varies according to the town) and almost always on Sunday.

Arriving in Italy

Of goods obtained anywhere outside the EU, the allowances are (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; (2) 2 liters of still table wine or 1 liter of spirits over 22% volume; and (3) 50 milliliters of perfume and 250 milliliters of toilet water.

Of goods obtained (duty and tax paid) within another EU country, the allowances are (1) 800 cigarettes or 400 cigarillos (under 3 grams) or 200 cigars or 1 kilogram of tobacco; (2) 90 liters of still table wine or 10 liters of spirits over 22% volume or 20 liters of spirits under 22% volume or 110 liters of beer.

There is no quarantine period in Italy, so if you want to travel with Fido or Tiger, it's possible. Contact your nearest Italian consulate to find out what paperwork is needed for entry into Italy; generally, it is a certificate noting that the animal is healthy and up-do-date on its vaccinations. Keep in mind, however, that the United States has some stringent laws about reentry: pets must be free of all disease, especially those communicable to humans, and they must be vaccinated against rabies at least 30 days before returning. This means that if you are in Italy for a short-term stay, you must find a veterinarian or have your pet vaccinated before departure. (This law does not apply to puppies less than three months old.) Pets should arrive at the point of entry with a statement, in English, attesting to this fact.

Additional information is available from:

Ministero delle Finanze, Direzione Centrale dei Servizi Doganali, Divisione I (Via Carucci 71, 00143 Rome, Italy, PHONE: 06/50242117).

Dogana Sezione Viaggiatori (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, Fiumicino 00054 Rome, PHONE: 06/65954343).

The electrical current in Italy is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two or three round prongs.

Australia

Australian Consulate (Via Borgogna 2, Milan, PHONE: 02/777041).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Via G.B. de Rossi 27, Rome, PHONE: 06/445981).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (Via Zara 28, Rome, PHONE: 06/4417171).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Via XX Settembre 80A, Rome, PHONE: 06/42200001).

British Consulate (Lungarno Corsini 2, Lungarno North, Florence, PHONE: 055/284133).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Via Veneto 121, Rome, PHONE: 06/46741).

U.S. Consulate (Lungarno Vespucci 38, Lungarno North, Florence, PHONE: 055/2398276).

Ambulance (PHONE: 118).

No matter where you are in Italy, dial 113 for all Emergencies (PHONE: 113), or find somebody (your concierge, a passerby) who will call for you, as not all 113 operators speak English.

Misericordia (Red Cross; Piazza del Duomo 20, Duomo, PHONE: 055/212222).

Police (Via Zara 2, near Piazza della Libertà, PHONE: 055/49771).

Italy has a national police force -- Carabinieri (PHONE: 112) -- as well as local police (polizia). Both are armed and have the power to arrest and investigate crimes. Always report the loss of your passport to either the carabinieri or the police, as well as to your embassy. Local traffic officers are known as vigili (though their official name is polizia municipale) -- they are responsible for, among other things, giving out parking tickets and clamping cars, so before you even consider parking the Italian way, make sure you are at least able to spot their white (in summer) or black uniforms (many are women). Should you find yourself involved in a minor car accident in town, you should contact the vigili. A country-wide toll-free number is used to call the carabinieri in case of emergency.

You can get a list of English-speaking doctors and dentists at the U.S. Consulate, or contact the Tourist Medical Service (Via Lorenzo il Magnifico, 59, PHONE: 055/475411).

and Tuesday and Thursday 10-noon.

24-Hour Pharmacies

Comunale No. 13 (Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/289435), a local pharmacy, is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

For a complete listing of other pharmacies that have late-night hours on a rotating basis, dial 192.

Italy is a country teeming with churches, and many of them house significant works of art. Because they are places of worship, visitors should take care to dress appropriately. Shorts, spaghetti straps, sleeveless garments are taboo in many churches inItaly. So, too, are short shorts anywhere. When touring churches -- especially in the summer when it's hot and no sleeves are desirable -- it's wise to carry a sweater, or scarf, to wrap around your shoulders before entering the church. Do not enter a church with food, and do not drink from your water bottle while inside. Do not go in if a service is in progress. If you have a cellular phone, turn it off before entering.

Italians who are friends greet each other with a kiss, usually first on the right cheek, and then on the left. Very good friends then kiss again on the right -- but that's somewhat rare.

Business Etiquette

Showing up on time for business appointments is the norm and expected in Italy. There are more business lunches than business dinners, and even business lunches aren't common, as Italians view mealtimes as periods of pleasure and relaxation. Business cards are used throughout Italy, and business suits are the norm for both men and women.

Every province in Italy has licensed tour guides who are allowed by Italian law to take groups and individuals to selected sites. Some of them are eminently qualified in relevant fields such as history and art history; others have simply managed to pass the test. Inquire at any tourist office for a licensed, English-speaking guide. When you speak to the guide, ask about his or her qualifications and specialties. Also check to make sure that the guide's English is understandable. The rates are fixed; find out what they are before hiring the guide. It is illegal for the guide to charge you more than the fixed fee. Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory.

Some places, such as the Duomo in Florence, offer free guided tours in English by a volunteer staff. Such guides may be longer on enthusiasm than knowledge.

Bus Tours

The major bus operators have half-day itineraries, all of which use comfortable buses staffed with English-speaking guides. Morning tours begin at 9, when buses pick visitors up at the main hotels. Stops include the cathedral complex, the Galleria dell'Accademia, Piazzale Michelangelo, and the Palazzo Pitti (or, on Monday, the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo). Afternoon tours stop at the large hotels at 2 PM and take in Piazza della Signoria, the Galleria degli Uffizi (or the Palazzo Vecchio on Monday, when the Uffizi is closed), nearby Fiesole, and, on the return, the church of Santa Croce. A half-day tour costs about EUR24.75, including museum admissions.

Schedules are available from:

Lazzi Eurolines (Via Mercadante 2, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/363041, www.lazzi.it).

SITA (Via Santa Caterina da Siena 17/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/214721).

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta caution that most of Southern Europe is in the "intermediate" range for risk of contracting traveler's diarrhea. Part of this risk may be attributed to an increased consumption of olive oil and wine, which can have a laxative effect on stomachs used to a different diet.

As of this writing, there has been one reported case of mad cow disease in a human in Italy. The Italian desire for beef has not abated, and it is eaten with gusto. However, many restaurants and butchers are widening their repertoire of meat dishes. In some places, traditional dishes such as osso buco (braised veal shank), oxtail, and offal specialties have disappeared from restaurants and grocery stores. Vitello (veal), vitellone (young beef), and manzo (beef) are considered safe to eat by both the Italian government and the European Union (these are cuts that don't come in touch with spinal marrow).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

It's always best to travel with your own tried and true medicines. The regulations regarding what medicines require a prescription are not likely to be the exactly the same in Italy and in your home country -- all the more reason to bring what you need with you. Aspirin (l'aspirina) can be purchased at any pharmacy, but Tylenol and Advil are unavailable.

In the main tourist cities, the language barrier is not a big problem. Most hotels have English speakers at their reception desks, and you can always find someone who speaks at least a little English otherwise. Remember that the Italian language is pronounced exactly as it is written (many Italians try to speak English by enunciating every syllable, with disconcerting results). You may run into a language barrier in the countryside, but a phrase book and close attention to the Italians' astonishing use of pantomime and expressive gestures will go a long way. Try to master a few phrases for daily use.

The Italian mail system is notoriously slow. Allow up to 15 days for mail to and from the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. It takes about a week to and from the United Kingdom and within Italy.

Post Offices

Florence (Via Pellicceria 3, Piazza della Repubblica, PHONE: 055/211147).

Florence (Via Pietrapiana 53/55, Santa Croce, PHONE: 055/214600).

Overnight Services

Overnight mail is generally available in all major cities and at resort hotels. Pickups are daily, excluding Saturday and Sunday. Service is reliable; a Federal Express letter to the United States costs about EUR15, to the United Kingdom, EUR17, and to Australia and New Zealand EUR19. Overnight delivery usually means 24-36 hours.

Many Internet points now offer overnight mail services as well at reasonable rates using major overnight carriers; if your hotel can't help you out, try an Internet point.

Major Services

DHL (Via della Cupola 234/5, PHONE: 800/123800 toll free; 199-199-345; 24 hrs a day). Federal Express (Via Gioberti 3, PHONE: 055/8974001; 800/123800 toll free weekdays 8-7).

SDA (PHONE: 800/016027; Mon.-Fri. 8:30-7:30; Sat. 8:30-1:30).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters and postcards (lightweight stationery) to the United States and Canada cost EUR0.67 for the first 20 grams; for heavier stationery you should go to the post office. Always stick the blue airmail tag on your mail, or write "Airmail" in big, clear characters to the side of the address. Postcards and letters (for the first 20 grams) to the United Kingdom, as well as to any other EU country, including Italy, cost EUR0.41.

Posta Prioritaria and the more expensive Postacelere are special delivery services from the post office. Postacelere (up to 20 kilograms and available in Italy only) guarantees delivery of letters within 24 hours in Italy and packages within three to five days. Lightweight stationery sent as Posta Prioritaria (stationery and small packages up to 2 kilograms) to the United States and Canada costs EUR0.77 (for the first 20 grams, double that for parcels up to 100 grams); to the United Kingdom, Italy, and all other EU countries it costs EUR0.62. As regular stamps are not valid for this service, make sure you buy the special golden Posta Prioritaria stamps.

You can buy stamps at tobacconists and post offices.

Informazioni Poste Italiane (PHONE: 160; EUR0.31 for information in Italian about rates and local post offices' opening hours; toll-free 800/009966 for information about Postacelere, www.poste.it) can supply additional information.

Receiving Mail

Correspondence can be addressed to you in care of the Italian post office. Letters should be addressed to your name, "c/o Ufficio Postale Centrale," followed by "Fermo Posta" on the next line, and the name of the city (preceded by its postal code) on the next. You can collect it at the central post office by showing your passport or photo-bearing I.D. and paying a small fee. American Express also has a general-delivery service. There's no charge for cardholders, holders of American Express Traveler's checks, or anyone who booked a vacation with American Express.

Shipping Parcels

You can ship parcels via air or surface. Air takes about two weeks, and surface anywhere up to three months. If you have purchased antiques, ceramics, or other objects, inquire to see if the vendor will do the shipping for you; in most cases, this is a possibility.

Some sample prices: Admission to the Galleria degli Uffizi, EUR9.30. A movie ticket is EUR6.70. Getting into a nightclub will set you back about EUR18.00. A daily English-language newspaper is EUR1.80. A taxi ride (1 1/3 km, or 1 mi) costs EUR5.15. An inexpensive hotel room for two, including breakfast, is about EUR98; an inexpensive dinner is EUR21, and a ½ liter carafe of house wine, EUR3.10. A simple pasta item runs about EUR6.70, a cup of coffee EUR0.60-0.80, and a rosticceria lunch, about EUR7.75. A Coca-Cola (standing) at a café is EUR1.30-1.80 and a pint of beer is EUR3.60. Prices are slightly higher in major cities and ski and beach resorts.

ATMs

Fairly common in cities and towns as well as in airports and train stations, ATMs are the easiest way to get euros in Italy. Italian ATMs are reliable, and are commonly attached to a bank -- you won't find one, for example, in a supermarket. Do check with your bank to confirm you have an international personal identification number, to find out your maximum daily withdrawal allowance, and to learn what the bank fee is for withdrawing money. The word for ATM in Italian is bancomat, for PIN, codice segreto.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of euro coins and notes. The former local currency, the lira, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

Taxes

Hotels

The service charge and the 9% IVA, or VAT tax, are included in the rate except in five-star deluxe hotels, where the IVA (12% on luxury hotels) may be a separate item added to the bill upon departure.

Restaurants

There is no tax added to restaurant bills. You will, however, sometimes find a service charge of approximately 15% added to your check; in some cases the menu may say that the service charge is already included in the menu prices.

Value-Added Tax

Value-added tax (IVA, or VAT) is 20% on clothing, wine, and luxury goods. On consumer goods, it's already included in the amount shown on the price tag, whereas on services it may not be.

Tipping

In restaurants a service charge of about 10% sometimes appears as a separate item on your check. Some restaurants say on the menu that cover and service charge are included. Either way, it's customary to leave an additional 5%-10% tip for the waiter, depending on the service. Tip checkroom attendants EUR0.50 per person and rest-room attendants EUR0.25 (more in expensive hotels and restaurants). Depending on where you are (Rome, for example) tip EUR0.05 for whatever you drink standing up at a coffee bar, EUR0.25 or more for table service in cafés. At a hotel bar, tip EUR0.50 and up for a round or two of cocktails.

Italians rarely tip taxi drivers, which is not to say that you shouldn't do it. A euro or two, depending on the length of the journey, is appreciated -- particularly if the driver helps with luggage. Railway and airport porters charge a fixed rate per bag. Tip an additional EUR0.25 per person, and more if the porter is helpful. Give a barber EUR1-EUR1.50 and a hairdresser's assistant EUR1.50-EUR4.15 for a shampoo or cut, depending on the type of establishment.

On sightseeing tours, tip guides about EUR1 per person for a half-day group tour, more if they are very good. In monasteries and other sights where admission is free, a contribution (EUR0.25-EUR0.50) is expected. Service station attendants are tipped only for special services, for example, EUR0.50 for checking your tires.

In hotels, give the portiere (concierge) about 15% of his bill for services, or EUR2.50-EUR5 if he has been generally helpful. For two people in a double room, leave the chambermaid about EUR0.75 per day, or about EUR4.50-EUR5 a week, in a moderately priced hotel; tip a minimum of EUR0.50 for valet or room service. Double amounts in an expensive hotel. In expensive hotels, tip doormen EUR0.50 for calling a cab and EUR1 for carrying bags to the check-in desk, bellhops EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for carrying your bags to the room, and EUR1.50-EUR2.50 for room service.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Italy

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United States need only a valid passport to enter Italy for stays of up to 90 days. Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Italy for an unlimited stay.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Public rest rooms are rather rare in Italy; the locals seem to make do with well-timed pit stops and rely on the local bar. Although private businesses can refuse to make their toilets available to the passing public, some bars will allow you to use the rest room if you ask politely. Alternatively, it is not uncommon to pay for a little something -- a few cents for a mineral water or coffee -- to get access to the facilities. Standards of cleanliness and comfort vary greatly. In cities, restaurants, hotel halls, department stores such as La Rinascente and Coin, and McDonald's restaurants tend to have the cleanest rest rooms. Pubs and bars rank among the worst. In general, it's in your interest to carry tissues with you. There are bathrooms in all airports and train stations (in major train stations you'll also find well-kept pay toilets for EUR0.25-0.50) and in most museums. There are also bathrooms at highway rest stops and gas stations: a small tip to the cleaning person is always appreciated. There are no bathrooms in churches, post offices, public beaches, or subway stations. Aside from in Venice, pay toilets in the city center of Italian towns are the exception, not the rule.

The best way to protect yourself against purse snatchers and pickpockets is to wear a concealed money belt or a pouch on a string around your neck. Don't wear an exterior money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a bag or camera, be absolutely sure it has straps; you should sling it across your body bandolier-style, adjusting the height to hip level or higher. Always be astutely aware of pickpockets, especially when in city buses and subways, when making your way through train corridors, and in busy piazzas.

If you carry a purse or wallet, store only enough money there to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch while in public.

Local Scams

Florence is subject to the same types of petty thievery that are practiced in Italy's other large, heavily touristed cities. Pickpockets are known to frequent crowded places, particularly buses. Purse-snatchers sometimes operate on mopeds, making them quick and potentially dangerous. Groups of gypsy children have a number of ruses to part you from your property. Although the odds are against you falling prey to such crimes, it's always wise to keep your valuables well guarded, to be alert to your surroundings, and to err on the side of caution if you find yourself in suspicious circumstances.

To the dismay of many clean-air-loving travelers, Italians are unrepentant smokers. In 2002, laws were enacted banning smoking in many public places, including bars and restaurants. Compliance has been somewhat arbitrary. If you ask someone to smoke elsewhere or not to smoke in no-smoking areas, don't expect them to respond or respect your request. Your best bet for finding as smoke-free an environment as possible is to stick to large establishments and, weather permitting, to eat outside. If you're a smoker, do check to see if there's a "Vietato Fumare" (No Smoking) sign before lighting up. All FS trains have no-smoking cars: always specify when you make reservations.

The country code for Italy is 39. The city code for Florence is 055. For example, a call from New York City to Florence would be dialed as 011 + 39 + 055 + phone number.

When dialing an Italian number from abroad, do not drop the initial 0 from the local area code (as was formerly the procedure).

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in English, dial 176. To place international telephone calls via operator-assisted service, dial 170 or long-distance access numbers.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Since hotels tend to overcharge for long-distance and international calls, it's best to make such calls from public phones, using telephone cards.

You can make collect calls from any phone by dialing 172-1011, which will get you an English-speaking operator. Rates to the United States are lowest on Sunday around the clock and 10 PM-8 AM (Italian time) on weekdays and Saturday.

From major Italian cities, you can place a direct call to the United States by reversing the charges or using your phone credit card number. When calling from pay telephones, insert a coin, which will be returned upon completion of your call. You automatically reach an operator in the country of destination and thereby avoid all language difficulties.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 172-1011).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 172-1022).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 172-1877).

Long-Distance Calls

For all calls within Italy -- local and long distance -- you must dial the regional area code (prefisso), which begins with a 0, such as 055 for Florence. If you are calling from a public phone you must deposit a coin or use a calling card to get a dial tone. Rates are different at various times during the day; it's cheaper to call within Italy during nonworking hours (before 9 AM and after 7 or 8 PM, and it's cheaper to dial internationally at these times.

Public Phones

Some pay phones accept only coins, others only carte telefoniche, so it's smart have both ready.

Prepaid carte telefoniche (calling cards) are prevalent throughout Italy and more convenient than coins. You buy the card (values vary -- EUR2.58, EUR5.16, and so on) at post offices, tobacconists, most news stalls, and bars. Tear off the corner of the card and insert it in the slot. The cards may be used in almost every public pay phone. When you dial, its value appears in the window. After you hang up, the card is returned so you can use it until its value runs out. The phone card called Time Europa is a good value, allowing you to call Europe and the United States at only EUR0.28 per minute during peak hours.

Tourist Offices

In Florence

Fiesole (Piazza Mino da Fiesole 37, 50014, PHONE: 055/598720).

Florence (Agenzia Promozione Turistica [APT]; Via Cavour 1/r, next to Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, San Lorenzo 50100, PHONE: 055/290832; Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella, 50100, PHONE: 055/212245; Borgo Santa Croce 29/r, PHONE: 055/2340444).

At Home

Italian Government Tourist Board (ENIT; 630 5th Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111, PHONE: 212/245-4822, FAX: 212/586-9249; 401 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 312/644-0996, FAX: 312/644-3019; 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025, PHONE: 310/820-1898, FAX: 310/820-6357; 175 Bloor St. East, Suite 907, South Tower, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3R8, PHONE: 416/925-4882, FAX: 416/925-4799; 1 Princes St., London W1R 8AY, PHONE: 020/7408-1254, FAX: 020/7493-6695, www.italiantourism.com).

The main tourist season runs from April to mid-October. For serious sightseers the best months are from fall to early spring. The so-called low season may be cooler and inevitably rainier, but it has its rewards: less time waiting in line and more time to enjoy closer-up, unhurried views of what you want to see.

Tourists crowd the major art cities at Easter, when Italians flock to resorts and to the country. From March through May, busloads of eager schoolchildren on excursions take cities of artistic and historical interest by storm.

Weatherwise, the best months for sightseeing are April, May, June, September, and October -- generally pleasant and not too hot. The hottest months are July and August, when humidity can make things unpleasant. Winters are relatively mild in most places on the main tourist circuit but always include some rainy spells. In general, the northern half of the peninsula and the entire Adriatic Coast, with the exception of Apulia, are rainier than the rest of Italy.

If you can avoid it, don't travel at all in Italy in August, when much of the population is on the move, especially around Ferragosto, the August 15 national holiday, when cities are deserted and many restaurants and shops are closed. (Of course, with residents away on vacation, this makes crowds less of a bother for tourists.)

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Florence:

January 36-48°F (2-9°C); February 37-52°F (3-11°C); March 41-57°F (5-14°C); April 46-66°F (8-19°C); May 54-73°F (12-23°C); June 59-81°F (15-27°C); July 64-86°F (18-30°C); August 63-86°F (17-30°C); September 59-79°F (15-26°C); October 52-68°F (11-20°C); November 45-57°F (7-14°C); December 39-52°F (4-11°C).

Holidays

National holidays include January 1 (New Year's Day); January 6 (Epiphany); April 20 and April 21 (Easter Sun. and Mon.); April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (Labor Day or May Day); June 2 (Festival of the Republic), August 15 (Assumption of Mary, better known as Ferragosto); November 1 (All Saints' Day); December 8 (Immaculate Conception); December 25 and 26 (Christmas Day and Boxing Day).

The feast days of patron saints are observed locally. Many businesses and shops may be closed in Florence on June 24 (St. John the Baptist).

Much of the Florence's centro storico is closed to automobile traffic, but you still must dodge mopeds, cyclists, and masses of fellow tourists as you walk the narrow streets, especially in the area bounded by the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria, Galleria degli Uffizi, and Ponte Vecchio.

Addresses in Italy are fairly straightforward: the street is followed by the street number. However, you might see an address with a number plus "bis" or "A"; for instance, "Via Verdi 3/bis" or "Via Mazzini 8/A." This indicates that 3/bis and 8/A are the next door down from Via Verdi 3 and Via Mazzini 8, respectively. In central Florence, addresses with a number followed by "r" (e.g., Via Santo Spirito 35/r), refer to "rosso" (red), the color of the number painted on the wall.

Brave souls (cycling in Florence is difficult, at best) may rent bicycles at easy-to-spot locations at Fortezza da Basso, the Stazione Centrale di Santa Maria Novella, and Piazza Pitti.

Alinari (Via Guelfa 85/r, San Marco, PHONE: 055/280500) is another source for bike rentals.

If you want to go native and rent a noisy Vespa (Italian for "wasp") or other make of motorcycle or motorino (moped), you may do so at Maxirent (Borgo Ognissanti 155/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/265420).

Massimo (Via Cairoli 8, PHONE: 055/573689) also rents mopeds.

However unfashionable, helmets must be rented at either place, and by law are mandatory, much to the chagrin of many Italians.

If you have well-exercised legs and lungs, you can also take a guided half-day bicycle tour from Florence to Fiesole with the tour group I Bike Italy (Borgo degli Albizi 11, Santa Croce, 055/2342371).

Maps and timetables are available for a small fee at the ATAF (Trasporti Area Fiorentina; Next to train station; Piazza del Duomo 57/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 800/019794 toll free) booth, or for free at visitor information offices.

Two types of tickets are available, both valid for one or more rides on all lines. One costs 1.03EUR and is valid for one hour from the time it is first canceled. A multiple ticket -- four tickets, each valid for 60 minutes -- costs EUR3.87. A 24-hour tourist ticket costs EUR3.10. Monthly passes are also available.

Tickets must be bought in advance at tobacco stores, newsstands, from automated ticket machines near main stops, or at ATAF booths. The ticket must be canceled in the small validation machine immediately upon boarding. Small electric buses make the rounds of the centro storico and provide an easy alternative to footing it around town. Use the same ticket as for the regular bus.

In the city, abandon all hope of using a car, since most of the downtown area is accessible only to locals with properly marked vehicles.

Car Rentals

Local Agencies

Avis (Via Borgo Ognissanti, 128/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/2398826).

Hertz Italiana (Via Finiguerra 33/r, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/317543).

Maggiore-Budget Autonoleggio (Via Termine 1, Santa Maria Novella, PHONE: 055/311256).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

All car-rental agencies operating in Italy require that you buy theft-protection policies.

Requirements

In Italy your own country's driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is nonetheless not a bad idea; it's available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

In Italy you must be 21 years of age to rent an economy or subcompact car, and most companies require customers under the age of 23 to pay by credit card. Upon rental, all companies require credit cards as a warranty; to rent bigger cars (2,000 cc or more), you must often show two credit cards. Call local agents for details. There are no special restrictions on senior-citizen drivers.

Car seats are required for children under three and must be booked in advance. The cost is generally about EUR36 for the duration of the rental.

Road Conditions

There is an extensive network of autostrade (toll highways), complemented by equally well maintained but free superstrade (expressways). The ticket you are issued upon entering an autostrada must be returned when you exit and pay the toll; on some shorter autostrade, mainly connecting highways, the toll is paid upon entering. Viacard cards, on sale at many autostrada locations, make paying tolls easier and faster. A raccordo is a ring road surrounding a city. Strade statali (state highways, denoted by S or SS numbers) may be single-lane roads, as are all secondary roads; directions and turnoffs are not always clearly marked.

Autostrade are well maintained, as are most interregional highways. The condition of provincial (county) roads varies, but road maintenance at this level is generally good in Italy. Street and road signs are often challenging -- a good map and patience are essential.

Emergency Services

Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI) offers 24-hour road service. Dial PHONE: 803/116 from any phone, 24 hours a day, to reach the ACI dispatch operator. Also, your rental car company may have an emergency tow service that can be reached with a toll-free call. Check your paperwork or ask when renting.

Gasoline

Gas stations are generally open Monday-Saturday 7-7 with a break at lunchtime. Many stations have automatic self-service pumps that accept only bills of 5, 10, 20, and 50 euros; some, but not all, also take credit cards. Gas stations on autostrade are open 24 hours.

Parking

Parking space is at a premium in most towns, especially in the centri storici (historic centers), which are filled with narrow streets and restricted circulation zones. It is often a good idea (if not the only option) to park your car in a designated (preferably attended) lot. Parking in an area signposted "Zona Disco" (disk zone) is allowed for limited periods (from 30 minutes to two hours or more -- the limit is posted); if you don't have the cardboard disk (inquire at the local tourist office) to show what time you parked, you can use a piece of paper. The parcometro, the Italian version of metered parking in which you put coins into a machine for a stamped ticket that you leave on the dashboard, has been introduced in some cities. It's advisable to leave your car only in guarded parking areas.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right. Regulations are largely as in Britain and the United States, except that the police have the power to levy on-the-spot fines. In most Italian towns the use of the horn is forbidden in certain, if not all, areas; a large sign, "Zona di Silenzio," indicates where. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on autostrade and 110 kph (70 mph) on state and provincial roads, unless otherwise marked. Fines for driving after drinking are heavy, including the suspension of license and the additional possibility of six months' imprisonment. Enforcement of these laws varies depending on region; fines, however, are stiff: 10k over the speed limit can be worth a fine of up to EUR500; over 10k, and your license could be taken away from you.

Nonetheless, Italians drive fast and are impatient with those who don't. Tailgating is the norm here -- the only way to avoid it is to get out of the way. Right turns on red lights are forbidden. Headlights are not compulsory when it's raining and snowing, but it's always a good idea to turn them on. Both seat belts and children's car seats are compulsory.

Parking fines can be stiff, and are strictly enforced, particularly in cities and major tourist towns. Towing is common, and often the places where the cars are towed are difficult to get to, so it's simply not worth it to take a risk.

Taxis (PHONE: 055/4390 or 055/4798) usually wait at stands throughout the city (in front of the train station and in Piazza della Repubblica, for example), or you can call for one. The meter starts at EUR2.30, with a EUR3.60 minimum and extra charges at night, on Sunday, or for radio dispatch. A tip of about 10% will be much appreciated.