The Halifax International Airport (YHZ) (1 Bell Blvd., Elmsdale, PHONE: 902/873-1223, www.hiaa.ca) is 40 km (25 mi) northeast of downtown Halifax.

Carriers

Major Airlines

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000).

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141).

From the U.K.

Air Canada (PHONE: 0870/524-7226).

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/722-2111).

Canada 3000 Airlines (PHONE: 877/973-3000).

Royal Airlines (PHONE: 877/769-2524).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Limousine and taxi services, as well as car rentals, are available at Halifax and Sydney airports.

By Bus

Airport bus service to Halifax and Dartmouth hotels costs $20 round-trip, $12 one-way. Airbus (PHONE: 902/873-2091) has regular bus service from the airport to most major hotels in Halifax.

By Taxi

Regular taxi fare to Halifax is $35 each way, but if you book ahead with Ace-Y (PHONE: 902/422-4437), the fare is $22.70 -- if you share your car with another passenger. The trip takes 30-40 minutes.

Car ferries connect Nova Scotia with Maine and New Brunswick:

Prince of Fundy Cruises (PHONE: 800/341-7540 in Canada; 800/482-0955 in Maine) sails from Portland, Maine, to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia.

Bay Ferries Ltd. (PHONE: 902/566-3838 or 888/249-7245) sails from Bar Harbor, Maine, to Yarmouth, and from Saint John, New Brunswick, to Digby, Nova Scotia. The Bar Harbor-Yarmouth service uses a high-speed catamaran, cutting the trip from 6 to 2¾ hours. The catamaran is hugely popular, so reserve ahead.

From May through December, Northumberland Ferries (PHONE: 902/566-3838 or 800/565-0201) operates between Caribou, Nova Scotia, and Wood Islands, Prince Edward Island.

Marine Atlantic (PHONE: 902/794-5254, 709/772-7701, or 800/341-7981) operates year-round between North Sydney and Port aux Basques, on the west coast of Newfoundland, and June through September between North Sydney and Argentia, on Newfoundland's east coast.

Metro Transit (PHONE: 902/421-6600) runs passenger ferries from the Halifax Ferry Terminal at Lower Water Street to Alderney Gate in downtown Dartmouth and to Woodside Terminal (near Dartmouth Hospital) on the hour and half hour from 6:30 AM to 11:57 PM. Ferries are more frequent during weekday rush hours; they also operate on Sunday in summer (June through September). Free transfers are available from the ferry to the bus system (and vice versa). A single crossing costs $1.50 and is worth it for the up-close view of both waterfronts.

Because of conflicting schedules, getting into Nova Scotia by bus can be problematic. Greyhound Lines, from New York, and Voyageur, from Montréal, connect with Scotia Motor Tours (SMT), through New Brunswick. SMT links (inconveniently) with Acadian Lines and provides interurban service within Nova Scotia. Airbus runs between the Halifax International Airport and major hotels in Halifax and Dartmouth. Shuttle van services with convenient transportation between Halifax and Sydney include Cape Shuttle Service and Scotia Shuttle Service.

There are a number of small, regional bus services; however, connections are not always convenient. Outside of Halifax there are no inner-city bus services.

Additional bus information is available from:

Acadian Lines (PHONE: 902/454-9321).

Airbus (PHONE: 902/873-2091).

Cape Shuttle Service (PHONE: 800/349-1698).

Greyhound Lines (PHONE: 800/231-2222).

Nova Scotia Tourism (Box 519, Halifax, B3J 2R7; PHONE: 902/424-5000 or 800/565-0000; www.gov.ns.ca/tourism).

Scotia Motor Tours (PHONE: 506/458-6000).

Scotia Shuttle Service (PHONE: 877/898-5883).

Voyageur Inc. (PHONE: 613/238-5900).

Most highways in the province lead to Halifax and Dartmouth. Highways 3/103, 7, 2/102, and 1/101 terminate in the twin cities. Motorists can enter Nova Scotia through the narrow neck of land that connects the province to New Brunswick and the mainland. The Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 2 in New Brunswick) becomes Highway 104 on crossing the Nova Scotia border at Amherst. It is now possible to drive over the Confederation Bridge from Prince Edward Island into New Brunswick near the Nova Scotia border. Otherwise, car ferries dock at Yarmouth (from Maine), Digby (from New Brunswick), Caribou (from Prince Edward Island), and North Sydney (from Newfoundland).

Amtrak (PHONE: 800/872-7245) has service from New York to Montréal.

VIA Rail Canada (PHONE: 800/561-3949) provides service from Montréal to Halifax via Moncton, in New Brunswick, and Amherst and Truro, in Nova Scotia.

Rocky Mountaineer Railtours (PHONE: 800/665-7245) operates a variety of spectacular all-daylight rail trips through the Canadian Rockies from the west coast.

Banks & Offices

Most banks in Canada are open Monday through Thursday 10-3 and Friday 10-5 or 6. Some banks are open longer hours and also on Saturday morning. All banks are closed on national holidays. Most banks (and some gas stations) have automatic teller machines (ATMs) that are accessible around the clock.

Gas Stations

Most highway and city gas stations in Canada are open daily (although there's rarely a mechanic on duty Sunday) and some are open around the clock. In small towns, gas stations are often closed on Sunday, although they may take turns staying open.

Museums & Sights

Hours at museums vary, but most open at 10 or 11 and close in the evening. Some smaller museums close for lunch. Many museums are closed on Monday; some make up for it by staying open late on Wednesday, often waiving admission.

The days when all churches were always open are gone; vandalism, theft, and the drop in general piety have seen to that. But the major churches in big cities are open daily, usually about 9-6.

Shops

Stores, shops, and supermarkets usually are open Monday through Saturday 9-6, although in major cities supermarkets are often open 7:30 AM-9 PM and some food stores are open around the clock. Blue laws are in effect in much of Canada, but in a growing number of provinces, stores -- even liquor stores -- have limited Sunday hours, usually noon-5; shops in areas highly frequented by tourists are usually open Sunday. Stores often stay open Thursday and Friday evenings, most shopping malls until 9 PM. Drugstores in major cities are often open until 11 PM, and convenience stores tend to be open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Americans should note that it is illegal for them to buy Cuban cigars, which are readily available in Canada, and to take them home.

Arriving in Canada

American and British visitors may bring in the following items duty-free: 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, and 7 ounces of tobacco; 1 bottle (1.1 liters or 40 imperial ounces) of liquor or wine, or 24 355-ml (12-ounce) bottles or cans of beer for personal consumption. Any alcohol and tobacco products in excess of these amounts is subject to duty, provincial fees, and taxes. You can also bring in gifts up to a total value of C$750.

A deposit is sometimes required for trailers (refunded upon return). Cats and dogs must have a certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian that clearly identifies the animal and certifies that it has been vaccinated against rabies during the preceding 36 months. Guide dogs are allowed into Canada without restriction. Plant material must be declared and inspected. There may be restrictions on some live plants, bulbs, and seeds. With certain restrictions or prohibitions on some fruits and vegetables, visitors may bring food with them for their own use, providing the quantity is consistent with the duration of the visit.

Canada's firearms laws are significantly stricter than those in the United States. All handguns and semiautomatic and fully automatic weapons are prohibited and cannot be brought into the country. Sporting rifles and shotguns may be imported provided they are to be used for sporting, hunting, or competition while in Canada. All firearms must be declared to Canada Customs at the first point of entry. Failure to declare firearms will result in their seizure, and criminal charges may be made. Regulations require visitors to have a confirmed "Firearms Declaration" to bring any guns into Canada; a fee of $50 applies, good for one year. For more information, contact the Canadian Firearms Centre (PHONE: 800/731-4000).

Additional customs information is available from Revenue Canada (2265 St. Laurent Blvd. S, Ottawa, ON K1G 4K3, PHONE: 613/993-0534; 800/461-9999 in Canada).

All embassies are in Ottawa.

Australia

Australian High Commission (50 O'Connor St., Suite 710, Ottawa, PHONE: 613/236-0841).

New Zealand

New Zealand High Commission (99 Bank St., Suite 727, Ottawa, PHONE: 613/238-5991).

United Kingdom

British High Commission (80 Elgin St., Ottawa, PHONE: 613/237-1530).

United States

U.S. Embassy (490 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, PHONE: 613/238-5335).

Ambulance, fire, or police (PHONE: 911).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Queen Elizabeth II Health Sciences Centre (5909 Jubilee Rd., Halifax, PHONE: 902/473-2799 switchboard; 902/473-2043 emergencies).

Boat Tours

Boat tours have become very popular in all regions of the province.

Murphy's on the Water (PHONE: 902/420-1015) sails various vessels: Harbour Queen I, a paddle wheeler; Haligonian III, an enclosed motor launch; Stormy Weather I, a 40-ft Cape Islander (fishing boat); and Mar II, a 75-ft sailing ketch. All operate from mid-May to late October from berths at 1751 Lower Water Street on Cable Wharf next to the Historic Properties in Halifax. Some tours include lunch, dinner, or entertainment. A cash bar may also be available. Costs vary, but a basic tour of the Halifax Harbour ranges from $15 to $25.

Harbour Hopper Tours (PHONE: 902/490-8687) offers a unique amphibious tour of historic downtown Halifax and the Halifax Harbour.

Bus and Rickshaw Tours

Gray Line Sightseeing (PHONE: 902/454-8279) run coach tours through Halifax, Dartmouth, and Peggy's Cove.

Cabana Tours (PHONE: 902/423-6066) runs a similar coach tour.

Halifax Double Decker Tours (PHONE: 902/420-1155) offers two-hour tours on double-decker buses that leave daily from Historic Properties in Halifax.

In Halifax, Yellow Cab (PHONE: 902/420-0000 or 902/422-1551) provides clean, comfortable cars with eloquent, amicable drivers who are well versed in local history and lore. As well as local tours, day trips to locations such as Wolfville or Peggy's Cove are possible with prior arrangement. Prices vary, but you should be sure to set a fee with the tour guide before you begin.

Greater Halifax Rickshaw Service (PHONE: 902/455-6677) offers intimate narrated tours of downtown Halifax.

Specialized Tours

Explore Halifax's rich tradition of stories of pirates, haunted houses, buried treasure, and ghosts with Halifax Ghost Walk (PHONE: 902/469-6716). Tours begin at the Old Town Clock at 8:30 PM on any scheduled night.

Train Tours

VIA Rail (PHONE: 800/561-3949) conducts weekly first-class guided rail tours between Halifax and Sydney from May through mid-October.

Canada's two official languages are English and French. Although English is widely spoken, it is useful to learn a few French phrases if you plan to travel to the French-Canadian communities in Nova Scotia. Canadian French has many distinctive words and expressions, but it's no more different from the language of France than North American English is from the language of Great Britain.

In Canada you can buy stamps at the post office or from vending machines in most hotel lobbies, railway stations, airports, bus terminals, many retail outlets, and some newsstands. If you're sending mail to or within Canada, be sure to include the postal code (six digits and letters). Note that the suite number often appears before the street number in an address, followed by a hyphen.

Following are postal abbreviations for provinces and territories: Alberta, AB; British Columbia, BC; Manitoba, MB; New Brunswick, NB; Newfoundland and Labrador, NF; Northwest Territories and Nunavut, NT; Nova Scotia, NS; Ontario, ON; Prince Edward Island, PE; Québec, QC; Saskatchewan, SK; Yukon, YT.

Postal Rates

Within Canada, postcards and letters up to 30 grams cost 47¢; between 31 grams and 50 grams, the cost is 75¢; and between 51 grams and 100 grams, the cost is 94¢. Letters and postcards to the United States cost 60¢ for up to 30 grams, 85¢ for between 31 and 50 grams, and $1.30 for up to 100 grams. Prices include GST (Goods and Services Tax).

International mail and postcards run $1.05 for up to 20 grams, $1.60 for 21 to 50 grams, and $2.50 for 51 to 100 grams.

Receiving Mail

Visitors may have mail sent to them c/o General Delivery in the town they are visiting, for pickup in person within 15 days, after which it will be returned to the sender.

ATMs

ATMs are available in most bank, trust-company, and credit-union branches across the country, as well as in many convenience stores, malls, and gas stations.

Currency

U.S. dollars are accepted in much of Canada (especially in communities near the border). However, to get the most favorable exchange rate, exchange at least some of your money into Canadian funds at a bank or other financial institution. Traveler's checks (some are available in Canadian dollars) and major U.S. credit cards are accepted in most areas.

The units of currency in Canada are the Canadian dollar (C$) and the cent, in almost the same denominations as U.S. currency ($5, $10, $20, 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, etc.). The $1 and $2 bill are no longer used; they have been replaced by $1 and $2 coins (known as a "loonie," because of the loon that appears on the coin, and a "toonie," respectively).

Taxes

In Nova Scotia, the single sales tax (HST) of 15% is used. The tax applies to most goods and services, and it includes Canada's national tax (GST) of 7%.

Tipping

Tips and service charges are not usually added to a bill in Canada. In general, tip 15% of the total bill. This goes for waiters, waitresses, barbers and hairdressers, and taxi drivers. Porters and doormen should get about $2 a bag. For maid service, leave at least $2 per person a day ($3 in luxury hotels).

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Canada

Citizens and legal residents of the United States do not need a passport or a visa to enter Canada, but proof of citizenship (a birth certificate or valid passport) and some form of photo identification will be requested. Naturalized U.S. residents should carry their naturalization certificate. Permanent residents who are not citizens should carry their "green card." U.S. residents entering Canada from a third country must have a valid passport, naturalization certificate, or "green card."

Citizens of the United Kingdom need only a valid passport to enter Canada for stays of up to six months.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

The country code for Canada is 1. The area code for Halifax is 902. You do not need to dial the three-digit area code when making a call from within the same code. When calling a number in another area code, dial a 1 followed by the area code and the telephone number. Telephone numbers beginning with 800 or 888 are toll-free numbers that can be dialed without charge from anywhere in the country (and from the United States).

Directory & Operator Information

For operator assistance, dial "0." For directory assistance in Canada, dial the area code followed by 555-1212; dial 1 before the area code if the area code is not the same as the one you are calling from.

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones. If you're dialing Canada from the United States, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number. If you're dialing the United States from Canada, dial 1 plus the area code and telephone number.

To call Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, or other countries except the U.S. from Canada, dial 011 followed by the appropriate country code, city code, and number. For operator assistance, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country codes are 44 for Great Britain, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand. To dial Canada from these countries, you should be able to dial 001 followed by the area code and telephone number.

Long-Distance Calls

To dial another province or an area of the same province that has a different area code, dial 1 followed by the area code and number.

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States and Canada relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

Public Phones

Pay telephones take coins, and charge phones are found in many locations, including airports and shopping malls. These phones can be used to charge a call to a telephone company card, your home, or the party you are calling. Local phone calls cost 25 cents.

Tourist Offices

In Halifax

Nova Scotia Tourism (Box 456, Halifax B3J 2R5, PHONE: 902/424-5000 or 800/565-0000, www.gov.ns.ca/tourism) publishes a wide range of literature, including an annual travel guide called the Nova Scotia Doers and Dreamers Guide. Call to have this invaluable source of information mailed to you.

Nova Scotia Tourism Information Centre (Old Red Store at Historic Properties, Halifax, PHONE: 902/424-4248).

Tourism Halifax & Nova Scotia Tourism (International Visitors Centre, 1595 Barrington St., Halifax, PHONE: 902/490-5946).

Canadian Tourism Commission (PHONE: 613/946-1000, www.canadatourism.com).

Visiting pilots can obtain aviation-related information for the flying tourist from the Aviation Council of Nova Scotia (Box 100, Debert B0M 1G0, PHONE: 902/895-1143).

At Home

Visit Canada Center 62-65 Trafalgar Sq., London, WC2 5DY PHONE: 0891/715-000; 50p per minute peak rate and 45p per minute cheap rate.

The best time of year to visit is mid-June through mid-September; in fact, many resorts, hotels, and attractions are open only during July and August. Nova Scotia, particularly the Cape Breton area, is very popular in fall because of the foliage and the 10-day Celtic Colors International Festival in October. And October -- with blazing autumn colors, warm and sunny days, and cool nights -- can be spectacular. Love lobster? The popular seafood is plentiful in May and June. Whale-watching and wildlife cruises as well as sea-kayaking outfitters generally operate from July to mid-September. Most golf courses stay open from June until late September, and some into October. Skiing (both downhill and cross-country) is popular at a variety of locations, including Kejimkujik and Cape Breton Highlands, from mid-December to early April.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Halifax:

January 20-33°F (-7 to 1°C); February 19-33°F (-7 to 1°C); March 26-39°F (-3 to 4°C); April 33-48°F (1-9°C); May 41-58°F (5-14°C); June 50-67°F (10-19°C); July 57-73°F (14-23°C); August 58-73°F (13-24°C); September 53-67°F (12-19°C); October 44-58°F (7-14°C); November 36-48°F (2-9°C); December 25-37°F (-4 to 3°C).

Holidays

Canadian national holidays are: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Monday, Victoria Day (third Monday in May), Canada Day (July 1), Labour Day (first Monday in September), Thanksgiving (second Monday in October), Remembrance Day (November 11), Christmas, and Boxing Day.

Nova Scotia also celebrates a Civic Holiday -- called Natal Day in Halifax -- on the first Monday in August.

Metro Transit (PHONE: 902/421-6600) provides bus service throughout Halifax and Dartmouth, the town of Bedford, and (to a limited extent) the county of Halifax. The base fare is $1.65, exact change only.

Car Rentals

It is recommended that you book a car through your travel agent. Avis, Budget, Hertz, National Tilden, and Thrifty have locations in Halifax.

Rates in Halifax begin at $54 a day and $285 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, an automatic transmission, and unlimited free kilometers. If you prefer a manual-transmission car, check whether the rental agency of your choice offers stick shifts; some companies in Canada, such as Avis, don't.

In Halifax

Avis (5600 Sackville St., Halifax, PHONE: 902/492-2847; 902/429-0963 airport).

Budget (1558 Hollis St., Halifax, PHONE: 902/492-7500 or 800/268-8900).

Hertz (Halifax Sheraton, 1919 Upper Water St., Halifax, PHONE: 902/421-1763; 902/873-3700 airport).

National Tilden (2173 Barrington St., Halifax, PHONE: 902/422-4439; 902/873-3505 airport).

Thrifty (6419 Lady Hammond, Halifax, PHONE: 902/422-4455; 902/873-3527 airport).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

Drivers must carry owner registration and proof of insurance coverage, which is compulsory in Canada. The Canadian Non-Resident Inter-Provincial Motor Vehicle Liability Insurance Card, available from any U.S. insurance company, is accepted as evidence of financial responsibility in Canada. The minimum liability coverage in Canada is C$200,000. If you are driving a car that is not registered in your name, carry a letter from the owner that authorizes your use of the vehicle.

Additional information is available from Insurance Bureau of Canada (PHONE: 416/362-9528; 800/387-2880 in Canada, www.ibc.ca).

Requirements

In Canada your own driver's license is acceptable. If you are in Nova Scotia for more than 90 days, you must secure a local license to drive.

You must be at least 21 to rent a car, and rental companies prefer that you be at least 25. Some companies will rent to 21-year-olds if the renter pays a surcharge, and some won't rent to anyone under 25, but it depends on the company. Rental-car companies have not set an upper age limit.

Road Conditions

Many of the roads in rural Nova Scotia require attentive driving, as they are not well signed, are narrow, and do not always have a paved shoulder. They are generally well surfaced and offer exquisite scenery.

Highways numbered from 100 to 199 are all-weather, limited-access roads, with 100- to 110-kph (62- to 68-mph) speed limits. The last two digits usually match the number of an older trunk highway along the same route, numbered from 1 to 99. Thus, Highway 102, between Halifax and Truro, matches the older Highway 2, between the same towns. Roads numbered from 200 to 399 are secondary roads that usually link villages.

Nova Scotia has 10 designated "Scenic Travelways," identified by roadside signs with icons that correspond with trail names. These lovely routes are also shown on tourist literature (maps and the provincial Travel Guide). Nova Scotia Tourism provides information.

Rules of the Road

By law, you are required to wear seat belts (and to use infant seats). Nova Scotia has a statutory requirement to drive with vehicle headlights on for extended periods after dawn and before sunset. Right turns are permitted on red signals. Radar-detection devices are illegal in Nova Scotia if you are caught with a radar device (operational or not) in a car, law enforcement will confiscate the gadget. Unless otherwise posted, the speed limit on roads numbered from 200 to 399 and any roads other than the 100-series highways is 80 kph (50 mph).

In Halifax, rates begin at about $2.50 and increase based on mileage and time. A crosstown trip should cost $6 to $7, depending on traffic. Hailing a taxi can be difficult, but there are taxi stands at major hotels and shopping malls. Most Haligonians simply phone for a taxi service.

Taxi companies include:

Casino Taxi (PHONE: 902/429-6666).

Yellow Cab (PHONE: 902/420-0000 or 902/422-1551).