Hawai'i's major airport is Honolulu International Airport (HNL) (PHONE:808/836-6411; www.ehawaiigov.org), on O'ahu, 20 minutes (9 mi) west of Waikiki. To travel interisland from Honolulu, you can depart from either the interisland terminal or the commuter-airline terminal, located in two separate structures adjacent to the main overseas terminal building. A free bus service, the Wiki Wiki Shuttle, operates between terminals.

Most flights to Honolulu International originate in Los Angeles or San Francisco, which means they are nonstop. Honolulu also has a number of carriers routing to the islands from the United Kingdom. Flying time is about 10 hours from New York, 8 hours from Chicago, 5 hours from Los Angeles, and 15 hours from London, not including layovers.

Carriers

Charter flights serving Honolulu International Airport are available from American Trans Air and Hawaiian Airlines.

From the Mainland U.S.

Aloha Airlines (PHONE:808/484-1111; www.alohaairlines.com).

American (PHONE:808/833-7600 or 800/433-7300; www.aa.com).

American Trans Air (PHONE:800/225-2995; www.ata.com).

Continental (PHONE:800/523-3273; www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE:800/221-1212; www.delta.com).

Hawaiian Airlines (PHONE:808/838-1555 or 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com).

Northwest/KLM (PHONE:808/955-2255 or 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com).

United (PHONE:800/241-6522; www.ual.com).

From the U.K.

Air New Zealand (PHONE:800/262-1234; www.airnewzealand.com).

American (PHONE:0345/789-789).

British Airways (PHONE:0345/222-111).

Continental (PHONE:800/523-3273; www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE:0800/414-767; www.delta.com).

United (PHONE:0800/888-555; www.ual.com).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE:01293/747-747).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Some hotels have their own pickup service. Check when you book.

By Bus

The municipal bus, TheBus (PHONE:808/848-5555; www.thebus.org), will take you into Waikiki for only $1.50, but you are allowed only one bag, which must fit on your lap.

By Car

Honolulu International Airport is only a 20-minute drive from Waikiki. From the airport, head east on State Highway 92 for a half mile, then bear right onto H1 to Waikiki.

By Shuttle

Trans-Hawaiian Services (PHONE:808/566-7300) runs an airport shuttle service to Waikiki. The fare is $8 one-way, $15 round-trip.

By Taxi

There are taxis right at the airport baggage-claim exit. At $1.50 start-up plus $2.50 for each mile, the fare to Waikiki will run approximately $23, plus tip. Drivers are also allowed to charge 30¢ per suitcase.

Boat Day used to be the biggest day of the week. Jet travel once obscured that custom, but arriving in Hawai'i by ship is making a comeback. If you have the time, it is one sure way to unwind. Many cruises are planned a year or more in advance and fill up fast. Most cruise-ship companies offer a fare that includes round-trip air travel to the point of embarkation.

Norwegian Cruise Lines' 2,200-passenger Norwegian Star vessel offers seven-day cruises to the Hawaiian islands. Ports of call include O'ahu, Maui, Kaua'i, the Big Island, and Fanning Island in Kiribati.

Even if you choose, as most travelers do, to travel by air to the Islands, you can get the flavor of what the luxury-cruise era in Hawai'i was like by checking out the Boat Day Celebrations at the Aloha Tower Marketplace (1 Aloha Tower Dr., at Piers 8, 9, and 10, Honolulu, PHONE:808/528-5700; www.alohatower.com). Vessels stopping here are met upon arrival by hula dancers and the kind of entertainment and floral festivities that once greeted travelers almost a century ago. Contact the Aloha Tower Marketplace for a boat-day schedule upon arrival.

Cruise Lines

Carnival (PHONE:888/227-6482; www.carnival.com).

Celebrity (PHONE:800/722-5941; www.celebritycruises.com).

Crystal Cruises (PHONE:800/820-6663; www.crystalcruises.com).

Cunard (PHONE:800/728-6273; www.cunard.com).

Holland America (PHONE:877/724-5425; www.hollandamerica.com).

Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) (7665 Corporate Dr., Miami, FL, 33126, PHONE:800/327-7030; www.ncl.com).

Princess (PHONE:800/774-6237; www.princess.com).

Royal Caribbean Cruise Line (PHONE:800/398-9819; www.royalcaribbean.com).

Seabourn (PHONE:800/929-9391; www.seabourn.com).

Even people in paradise have to work. Generally local business hours are weekdays 8-5. Banks are usually open Monday-Thursday 8:30-3 and until 6 on Friday. Some banks have Saturday-morning hours.

Many self-serve gas stations stay open around-the-clock, with full-service stations usually open from around 7 AM until 9 PM. U.S. post offices are open weekdays 8:30 AM-4:30 PM and Saturday 8:30-noon. On O'ahu, the Ala Moana post office branch is the only branch, other than the main Honolulu International Airport facility, that stays open until 4 PM on Saturday.

Museums and Sights

Most museums generally open their doors between 9 AM and 10 AM and stay open until 5 PM Tuesday-Saturday. Many museums operate with afternoon hours only on Sunday and close on Monday. Visitor-attraction hours vary throughout the state, but most sights are open daily with the exception of major holidays such as Christmas. Check local newspapers upon arrival for attraction hours and schedules if visiting over holiday periods. The local dailies carry a listing of "What's Open/What's Not" for those time periods.

Shops

Stores in resort areas sometimes open as early as 8, with shopping-center opening hours varying from 9:30 to 10 on weekdays and Saturday, a bit later on Sunday. Bigger malls stay open until 9 weekdays and Saturday and close at 5 on Sunday. Boutiques in resort areas may stay open as late as 11.

In Hawai'i

Plants and plant products are subject to regulation by the Department of Agriculture, both on entering and leaving Hawai'i. Upon leaving the Islands, you'll have to have your bags X-rayed and tagged at one of the airport's agricultural inspection stations before you proceed to check-in. Pineapples and coconuts with the packer's agricultural inspection stamp pass freely; papayas must be treated, inspected, and stamped. All other fruits are banned for export to the U.S. mainland. Flowers pass except for gardenia, rose leaves, jade vine, and mauna loa. Also banned are insects, snails, soil, cotton, cacti, sugarcane, and all berry plants.

You'll have to leave dogs and other pets at home. A strict six-month quarantine is imposed to keep out rabies, which is nonexistent in Hawai'i.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229, PHONE:202/354-1000; www.customs.gov).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036, PHONE:202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001, PHONE:202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate (900 Richards St., Room 414, Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/543-7900).

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE:911).

Coast Guard Rescue Center (PHONE:800/552-6458).

Fire (PHONE:911).

Police (PHONE:911).

Doctors

A doctor, laboratory-radiology technician, and nurses are always on duty at Doctors on Call (Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Hotel, 120 Kaiulani Ave., Waikiki, PHONE:808/971-6000). Appointments are recommended but not necessary. Dozens of kinds of medical insurance are accepted, including Medicare, Medicaid, and most kinds of travel insurance.

Hospitals

Castle Medical Center (640 Ulukahiki, Kailua, PHONE:808/263-5500).

Kapiolani Medical Center for Women and Children (1319 Punahou St., Makiki Heights, Honolulu, PHONE:808/983-6000).

Queen's Medical Center (1301 Punchbowl St., Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/538-9011).

Saint Francis Medical Center-West (91-2141 Ft. Weaver Rd., 'Ewa Beach, PHONE:808/678-7000).

Straub Clinic (888 S. King St., Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/522-4000).

Pharmacies

Kuhio Pharmacy (Outrigger West Hotel, 2330 Kuhio Ave., Waikiki, PHONE:808/923-4466) is Waikiki's only pharmacy and handles prescription requests only until 4:30 PM.

Longs Drugs (Ala Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 2nd level, Ala Moana, PHONE:808/949-4010) is open evenings at its Ala Moana location and 24 hours at its South King Street location (15 minutes from Waikiki by car).

Pillbox Pharmacy (1133 11th Ave., Kaimuki, PHONE:808/737-1777), located in Kaimuki, will deliver prescription medications for a small fee.

Hawai'i was admitted to the Union in 1959, so residents can be pretty sensitive when visitors refer to their own hometowns as "back in the States." Remember, when in Hawai'i, refer to the contiguous 48 states as "the mainland" and not as the United States. When you do, you won't appear to be such a malahini (newcomer).

Aerial Tours

Through the bubble top of the sleek sail plane of Honolulu Soaring Club (Dillingham Airfield, Mokule'ia, PHONE:808/677-3404), you get aerial views of O'ahu's North Shore with its coral pools; sugarcane fields; windsurfers; and, in winter, humpback whales. On-board live videotaping is available. Reservations are not accepted; 20- and 30-minute flights leave every 20 minutes daily 10-5. The charge for one passenger is $90; two people fly for $120. Ask for "Mr. Bill" to make reservations.

Island Seaplane Service (Keahi Lagoon, Honolulu, PHONE:808/836-6273) takes off from Keahi Lagoon and sets you soaring on an aerial tour that is either a half-hour South and Eastern O'ahu shoreline tour or an hour Circle Island tour. Get the feel of what Hawai'i air transportation was like during the Pan Am Clipper days for $89 to $139.

Makani Kai Helicopters (110 Kapalulu Pl., Honolulu, PHONE:808/834-5813; www.makanikai.com) depart from Honolulu International Airport for helicopter tours of O'ahu by daylight or at sunset. A Waikiki by Night excursion sends you soaring by the breathtaking Honolulu city lights. Tours range from $75 to $190, with customized tours available for $450.

Boat Tours

Dream Cruises (306 Kamani St., Honolulu, PHONE:808/592-5200) offers tours of Pearl Harbor aboard the 100-ft motor yacht American Dream. The trip takes place in the early morning -- from 7:30 to 10:30 -- to coincide with the time that Pearl Harbor was attacked on December 7, 1941. It includes a stop near the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, where the captain conducts a brief memorial service and lei placement ceremony. Narration and videos help describe the sights. In winter, this cruise is paired with a whale-watch. The cost is $21.95.

Tradewind Charters (796 Kalanipuu St., Honolulu, PHONE:800/829-4899) is a good bet for half-day private charter tours for sailing, snorkeling, and whale-watching. Traveling on these luxury yachts not only gets you away from the crowds but also gives you the opportunity to "take the helm" if you wish. The cruise also includes snorkeling at an exclusive anchorage as well as hands-on snorkeling and sailing instruction. Charter prices are approximately $495 for up to six passengers.

Bus & Van Tours

There are many ground-tour companies in O'ahu that handle daylong sightseeing excursions. Depending on the size of the tour, travel may be by air-conditioned bus or smaller vans. Vans are recommended because less time is spent picking up passengers, and you get to know your fellow passengers and your tour guide. Ask exactly what the tour includes in the way of actual "get-off-the-bus" stops and "window sights." Most of the tour guides have taken special Hawaiiana classes to learn their history and lore, and many are certified by the state of Hawai'i. Tipping ($2 per person at least) is customary.

E Noa Tours (PHONE:808/591-9923; www.enoa.com) uses minibuses and trolleys and likes to get you into the great outdoors.

Polynesian Adventure Tours (PHONE:808/833-3000; www.polyad.com) has motorcoaches, vans, and minicoaches.

Polynesian Hospitality provides narrated tours.

Roberts Hawai'i (PHONE:808/539-9400; www.robertshawaii.com) has equipment ranging from vans to presidential limousines.

Trans Hawaiian Services (PHONE:808/566-7300) Trans Hawaiian Services offers multilingual tours.

Most tour companies offer some version of the following standard O'ahu tours listed below:

There are several variations on the Circle Island Tour theme. Some of these all-day tours, ranging from $45 to $65, include lunch. Little Circle tours cover East O'ahu. This is a half-day tour and costs between $25 and $40.

The comprehensive Pearl Harbor and City tour includes the boat tour to Pearl Harbor run by the National Park Service. These tours cost between $35 and $40.

One of the advantages of the Polynesian Cultural Center (PHONE:808/293-3333 or 808/923-1861; www.polynesia.com) tour is that you don't have to drive yourself back to Waikiki after dark if you take in the evening show. The tour is $70-$80 per person.

Theme Tours

E Noa Tours (PHONE:808/591-9923; www.enoa.com) has certified tour guides who conduct not only Circle Island and Pearl Harbor tours but also shopping tours to the Waikele Premium Outlets.

Hawaiian Island Eco-tours, Ltd (PHONE:808/236-7766; www.hikeoahu.com). has experienced guides who take nature lovers and hikers on limited-access trails for tours ranging from hidden waterfalls to bird-watching.

Home of the Brave and Top Gun Tours (PHONE:808/396-8112) offers military-history buffs a narrated tour of military bases plus a drive through the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific.

Mauka Makai Excursions (PHONE:808/593-3525; www.hau-ecotours.com) takes visitors to some of the ancient Hawaiian archaeological, legendary, and nature sites that islanders hold sacred.

Underwater Tours

Atlantis Submarines (Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort and Spa, 2005 Kalia Rd., Waikiki, Honolulu, 96815, PHONE:808/973-1296) operates two air-conditioned vessels off Waikiki, which dive up to 100 ft for viewing of a sunken navy-yard oiler, coral gardens, and an artificial reef teeming with tropical fish. Dive cruises are two hours in length and are a popular family activity. Children must be at least 3-ft tall to board. Note: flash photography will not work; use film speed ASA 200 or above without flash. Tours cost $6 and begin from the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort Pier.

Walking Tours

Meet at the Chinese Chamber of Commerce for a Chinatown Walking Tour (Chinese Chamber of Commerce, 42 N. King St., Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/533-3181), a fascinating peek into herbal shops, an acupuncturist's office, open-air markets, and specialty stores. The 2½-hour tour sponsored by the Chamber costs $5 and is available every Tuesday at 9:30. Reservations are required.

The Mission Houses Museum offers a Historic Downtown Walking Tour (553 S. King St., Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/531-0481), a two-hour walk through historic Honolulu that begins with an hour-long tour of the Mission Houses before the downtown stroll. Reservations are required. Tours are $8 and operate Thursday and Friday mornings.

The American Institute of Architects (AIA) (1128 Nu'uanu Ave., Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/545-4242) offers a tour of Downtown Honolulu from an architectural perspective. Tours cost $15 per person and run Tuesday and Saturday mornings at 9:30 AM.

The Hawaii Geographic Society (PHONE:808/538-3952) arranges a unique Downtown Honolulu historic-temple and archaeology walking tour (Sunday only upon request) for $10 per person.

History springs to life for young and old alike during Honolulu Time Walks (2634 S. King St., Suite 3, Downtown Honolulu, Honolulu, PHONE:808/943-0371), which come with appropriately costumed narrators and cost $7 to $45. Tours and seminar programs explore the "mysteries" of Honolulu -- its haunts, historic neighborhoods, and the different but not always talked about eras in its colorful history.

Hawai'i is known as the Health State. The life expectancy here is 79 years, the longest in the nation. Balmy weather makes it easy to remain active year-round, and the low-stress aloha attitude certainly contributes to general well-being. When visiting the Islands, however, there are a few health issues to keep in mind.

The Hawai'i State Department of Health recommends that you drink 16 ounces of water per hour to avoid dehydration when hiking or spending time in the sun. Use sunblock, wear UV-reflective sunglasses, and protect your head with a visor or hat for shade. If you're not acclimated to warm, humid weather you should allow plenty of time for rest stops and refreshments. When visiting freshwater streams, be aware of the tropical disease leptospirosis, which is spread by animal urine and carried into streams and mud. Symptoms include fever, headache, nausea, and red eyes. If left untreated it can cause liver and kidney damage, respiratory failure, internal bleeding, and even death. To avoid this, don't swim or wade in freshwater streams or ponds if you have open sores and don't drink from any freshwater streams or ponds.

In the Islands, fog is a rare occurrence, but there can often be "vog," an airborne haze of gases released from volcanic vents on the Big Island. During certain weather conditions such as "Kona Winds," the vog can settle over the Islands and wreak havoc with respiratory and other health conditions, especially asthma or emphysema. If susceptible, stay indoors and get emergency assistance if needed.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Pests and Other Hazards

The Islands have their share of bugs and insects that enjoy the tropical climate as much as visitors do. Most are harmless but annoying. When planning to spend time outdoors in hiking areas, wear long-sleeved clothing and long pants and use mosquito repellent containing deet. In very damp places you may encounter the dreaded local centipede. In the Islands they usually come in two colors, brown and blue, and they range from the size of a worm to an 8-inch cigar. Their sting is very painful, and the reaction is similar to bee- and wasp-sting reactions. When camping, shake out your sleeping bag before climbing in, and check your shoes in the morning, as the centipedes like cozy places. If planning on hiking or traveling in remote areas, always carry a first-aid kit and appropriate medications for sting reactions.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

Many of the Islands' best attractions and activities, such as beaches and hiking, can be found in the form of natural beauty and cost nothing to view. You'll pay 50¢ for a daily newspaper, $1.50 to ride the bus anywhere on O'ahu, and from $45 on up to attend a lu'au. Large museums cost between $8 and $15 per entry; smaller ones can cost from $3 to $6.

ATMs

Automatic teller machines for easy access to cash are everywhere on the Islands. ATMs can be found in shopping centers, small convenience and grocery stores, inside hotels and resorts, as well as outside most bank branches. For a directory of locations, call 800/424-7787 for the MasterCard Cirrus Maestro network or 800/843-7587 for the Visa Plus network.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

There is a 4.16% state sales tax on all purchases, including food. A hotel room tax of 7.25%, combined with the sales tax of 4%, equals an 11.25% rate added onto your hotel bill.

A $3-per-day road tax is also assessed on each rental vehicle.

Tipping

Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare. Standard tips for restaurants and bar tabs run from 15% to 20% of the bill, depending on the standard of service. Bellhops at hotels usually receive $1 per bag, more if you have bulky items such as bicycles and surfboards. Tip the hotel room maid $1 per night, paid daily. Tip doormen $1 for assistance with taxis; tips for concierge vary depending on the service. For example, tip more for "hard-to-get" event tickets or dining reservations.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE:09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland, PHONE:028/9032-8239; www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000, PHONE:02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line; www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE:04/462-6000; usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE:09/303-2724; usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Hawai'i is generally a safe tourist destination, but it's still wise to follow the same common sense safety precautions you would normally follow in your own hometown. Hotel and visitor-center staff can provide information should you decide to head out on your own to more remote areas. Rental cars are magnets for break-ins, so don't leave any valuables in the car, not even in a locked trunk. Avoid poorly lighted areas, beach parks, and isolated areas after dark as a precaution.

When hiking, stay on marked trails, no matter how alluring the temptation might be to stray. Weather conditions can cause landscapes to become muddy, slippery, and tenuous, so staying on marked trails will lessen the possibility of a fall or getting lost.

Ocean safety is of the utmost importance when visiting an island destination. Don't swim alone, and follow the international signage posted at beaches that alerts swimmers to strong currents, man-of-war jellyfish, sharp coral, high surf, sharks, and dangerous shore breaks. At coastal lookouts along cliff tops, heed the signs indicating that waves can climb over the ledges. Check with lifeguards at each beach for current conditions, and if the red flags are up, indicating swimming and surfing are not allowed, don't go in. Waters that look calm on the surface can harbor strong currents and undertows, and not a few people who were just wading have been dragged out to sea.

Local Scams

Be wary of those hawking "too good to be true" prices on everything from car rentals to attractions. Many of these offers are just a lure to get you in the door for time-share presentations. When handed a flyer, read the fine print before you make your decision to participate.

Women in Hawai'i

Women traveling alone are generally safe in the Islands, but always follow the safety precautions you would use in any major destination. When booking hotels, request rooms closest to the elevator, and always keep your hotel-room door and balcony doors locked. Stay away from isolated areas after dark; camping and hiking solo are not advised. If you stay out late visiting nightclubs and bars, use caution when exiting night spots and returning to your lodging.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for O'ahu is 808.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE:800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE:800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE:800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Offices

Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB) (Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, 96815, PHONE:808/923-1811 or 800/464-2924; www.gohawaii.com).

Surf Report (PHONE:808/973-4383).

Weather (PHONE:808/973-4381).

At Home

Before you go, contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB) (Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, 96815, PHONE:808/923-1811 or 800/464-2924; www.gohawaii.com) for general information on each island, free brochures that include an accommodations and car-rental guide, and an entertainment and dining listing containing one-line descriptions of bureau members. Take a virtual visit to Hawai'i on the Web, which can be most helpful in planning many aspects of your vacation. The HVCB site has a calendar section that allows you to see what local events are in place during the time of your stay.

In the U.K. contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau. Send a £2 check or postal order for an information pack.

Hawai'i Attractions Association (PHONE:808/596-7733; www.hawaiiattractions.com).

O'ahu Visitor Bureau (PHONE:877/525-6248; www.visit-oahu.com).

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE:905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London, W1A 1EN, PHONE:020/7495-4466).

Long days of sunshine and fairly mild year-round temperatures make Hawai'i an all-season destination. Most resort areas are at sea level, with average afternoon temperatures of 75°F-80°F during the coldest months of December and January; during the hottest months of August and September the temperature often reaches 90°F. Only at high elevations does the temperature drop into the colder realms, and only at mountain summits does it reach freezing.

Most travelers head to the Islands during winter. From mid-December through mid-April, visitors from the mainland and other areas covered with snow find Hawai'i's sun-splashed beaches and balmy trade winds appealing. This high season means that fewer travel bargains are available; room rates average 10%-15% higher during this season than the rest of the year.

Rainfall can be high in winter. Moist trade winds drop their precipitation on the north and east sides of the islands, creating tropical climates, while the south and west sides remain hot and dry with desertlike conditions. Generally speaking, you are guaranteed sun and warm temperatures on the west and south shores no matter what time of year. Higher "Upcountry" elevations typically have cooler, and often misty conditions.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Honolulu:

January 65-80°F (18 to 27°C); February 65-80°F (18-27°C); March 69-81°F (21-27°C); April 69-83°F (21-28°C); May 70-85°F (21-29°C); June 72-86°F (22-30°C); July 73-87°F (23-31°C); August 74-88°F (23-31°C); September 73-88°F (23-31°C); October 72-87°F (22-31°C); November 69-84°F (21-29°C); December 67-81°F (19-27°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

In addition, Hawai'i celebrates Prince Kuhio Day (Mar. 26), King Kamehameha Day (June 11), and Admission Day (3rd Fri. in Aug.). State, city, and county offices as well as many local companies are closed for business.

Waikiki is only 2½ mi long and ½ mi wide, which means you can usually walk to where you are going. However, if you plan to venture outside of Waikiki, it's best to rent a car.

O'ahu's transportation system, known just as TheBus, is one of the island's best bargains. Fares per ride are $1.50, and with more than 68 bus routes you can even do an O'ahu circle-island tour.

Remember that Hawai'i residents refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean) from one another. Other directions depend on your location: in Honolulu, for example, people say to "go Diamond Head," which means toward that famous landmark, or to "go 'ewa," meaning in the opposite direction. A shop on the mauka-Diamond Head corner of a street is on the mountain side of the street on the corner closest to Diamond Head. It all makes perfect sense once you get the lay of the land.

Hawai'i's natural beauty, breathtaking coastal routes, and year-round fair weather make it attractive to explore by bike. However, on many roads, bicycle lanes are limited or nonexistent, and cyclists must contend with heavy traffic on the more populated islands; biking on O'ahu may require some skillful maneuvering. You can rent bikes for some solo cruising, join local cycling clubs for their weekly rides, or hit the road with outfitters for tours that go beyond the well-traveled paths.

Bike maps are available from the Honolulu City and County Bike Coordinator (PHONE:808/527-5044).

Blue Sky Rentals & Sports Center (1920 Ala Moana Blvd., across from Hilton Hawaiian Village, Waikiki, PHONE:808/947-0101) rents mopeds for $20 a day (8-6) and $25 for 24 hours. Mountain bikes from Blue Sky Rentals cost $15 a day, $20 for 24 hours, and $75 for the week, plus a $25 deposit.

Big Kahuna Motorcycle Tours and Rentals (404 Seaside Ave., Waikiki, PHONE:808/924-2736) rents a variety of motorcycles for $125-$250 a day.

You can go all around the island or just down Kalakaua Avenue for $1.50 on Honolulu's municipal transportation system, affectionately known as TheBus (PHONE:808/848-5555; www.thebus.org). You're entitled to one free transfer per fare if you ask for it when boarding. Exact change is required, and dollar bills are accepted. A four-day pass for visitors costs $10 and is sold at the more than 30 ABC stores (Hawaiian chain stores that sell sundries and are geared to tourists) in Waikiki. Monthly passes cost $25.

There are no official bus-route maps, but you can find privately published booklets at most drugstores and other convenience outlets. The important route numbers for Waikiki are 2, 4, 8, 19, 20, and 58. If you venture afield, you can always get back on one of these.

There are also a number of brightly painted private buses, many free, that will take you to such commercial attractions as dinner cruises, garment factories, and the like.

If you plan to go beyond Waikiki to tour O'ahu, renting a car is essential. During peak seasons -- summer, Christmas vacations, and February -- reservations are necessary.

Regardless of today's fluctuating gas prices, you can pretty much count on having to pay more at the pump for gasoline in the Islands than on the U.S. mainland.

Car Rentals

Rental agencies abound in and around the Honolulu International Airport and in Waikiki. Local agencies rent everything from used cars to classics and pickup trucks. It's wise to make reservations in advance, especially if visiting during peak seasons or for a major convention or sporting event.

Rates in Honolulu begin at $38 a day ($164 a week) for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax, insurance, and a $32-per-day road tax.

On O'ahu

Avis (PHONE:808/834-5536 or 800/321-3712; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 800/527-7000 in Hawai'i; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:808/831-2330 or 800/800-4000; www.dollarcar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE:808/836-2213 or 800/736-8222; www.enterprise.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/764-4423; www.hertz.com).

JN Car and Truck Rentals (PHONE:808/831-2724; www.jnag.com).

National (PHONE:808/831-3800 or 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com).

Paradise Rent A Car (PHONE:808/946-7777 or 888/882-2277; www.paradiserentacar.com).

Thrifty (PHONE:808/831-2277 or 800/367-2277).

VIP (PHONE:808/922-4605).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Enterprise (PHONE:800/325-8007; www.enterprise.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE:800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom; www.nationalcar.com).

Sears (PHONE:800/527-0770).

Thrifty (PHONE:800/367-2277; www.thrifty.com).

Requirements

In Hawai'i you must be 21 years of age to rent a car and you must have a valid driver's license and a major credit card. Your unexpired mainland driver's license is valid for rental for up to 90 days. Those under 25 will pay a daily surcharge.

When picking up a rental car, non-U.S. residents need a reservation voucher for any prepaid reservations that were made in the traveler's home country, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver.

Road Conditions

It's hard to get lost on O'ahu. Roads and streets, although perhaps unpronounceable to visitors, are at least well marked. Major attractions and scenic spots are marked by the distinctive HVCB sign with its red-caped warrior. Although it's hard to get lost, driving in Honolulu can be frustrating, as many streets are one-way.

Driving in rush-hour traffic (6:30-8:30 and 3:30-5:30) can be exasperating, because left turns are prohibited at many intersections. Parking along many streets is curtailed during these hours, and towing is strictly enforced. Read the curbside parking signs before leaving your vehicle, even at a meter. Remember not to leave valuables in your car. Rental cars are often targets for thieves.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to buckle up. Hawai'i has a strictly enforced seat-belt law for front-seat passengers. Children under 40 pounds must be in a car seat, available from your car-rental agency. Children 18 and under, riding in the backseat, are also required by state law to use seat belts. The highway speed limit is usually 55 mph. In-town traffic moves from 25 to 40 mph. Jaywalking is very common, so be particularly watchful for pedestrians, especially in congested areas such as Waikiki. Unauthorized use of a parking space reserved for persons with disabilities can net you a $150 fine.

O'ahu's drivers are generally courteous, and you rarely hear a horn. People will slow down and let you into traffic with a wave of the hand. A friendly wave back is customary. If a driver sticks a hand out the window in a fist with the thumb and pinky sticking straight out, this is a good thing: the Hawaiian symbol for "hang loose," it's called the shaka and is often used to say "thanks," as well.

Cloud Nine Limousine Service (PHONE:808/524-7999 or 800/524-7999; www.cloudninelimos) provides red-carpet treatment in its chauffeur-driven superstretch limousines. Rates begin at $60 an hour, plus tax and tip, with a two-hour minimum.

Duke's Limousine, Inc. (PHONE:808/738-1878; www.dukeslimo.com) offers a choice of luxury superstretches, sedans, or SUV limousines, with rates that begin at $45 per hour, with a two-hour minimum.

You can usually get a taxi right outside your hotel. Most restaurants will call a taxi for you. Rates are $1.50 at the drop of the flag, plus $2.50 per mile. Flat fees can also be negotiated for many destinations -- just ask your driver. Drivers are generally courteous, and the cars are in good condition, many of them air-conditioned.

For transportation throughout the island, try Charley's Taxi & Tours (PHONE:808/531-1333).

SIDA of Hawai'i Taxis, Inc. (PHONE:808/836-0011), offers 24-hour island-wide transportation service and multilingual drivers.

The Waikiki Trolley (PHONE:808/593-8211; www.waikikitrolley.com) has three lines and 40 stops that allow you to design your own itinerary. The Red Line cruises around Waikiki, Ala Moana, and Downtown Honolulu. The Yellow Line hits major shopping centers and restaurant locations. The Blue Line provides a tour of O'ahu's southeastern coastline, including Hanauma Bay and Sea Life Park. The trolleys depart from the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center in Waikiki every 15 minutes daily from 8 to 4:30. Buy an all-day pass from the conductor for $18.

The Rainbow Trolley (PHONE:808/539-9400) system picks up riders at the Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel every 30 minutes and tours "outer Waikiki" with trolley routes through Kaimuki, Ala Moana shopping district, and Downtown Honolulu.