Several short daily flights can take you from Honolulu to Kaua'i, and there is limited service from Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Lihu'e Airport (LIH) (PHONE:808/246-1488; 888/697-7813 for Visitor Information Center) is 3 mi east of the town of Lihu'e. There's a Visitor Information Center outside each baggage-claim area.

Used primarily by private planes, Princeville Airport (HPV) (PHONE:808/826-3040) is a tiny strip on the north shore, set within rolling ranches and sugarcane fields. It's a five-minute drive from the Princeville Resort and condo development, and a 10-minute drive from the shops and accommodations of Hanalei.

Hawai'i's major airport is Honolulu International Airport (HNL) (PHONE:808/836-6411; www.ehawaiigov.org), on O'ahu, 20 minutes (9 mi) west of Waikiki. To travel interisland from Honolulu, you can depart from either the interisland terminal or the commuter-airline terminal, located in two separate structures adjacent to the main overseas terminal building. A free bus service, the Wiki Wiki Shuttle, operates between terminals.

Flying time is about 10 hours from New York, 8 hours from Chicago, 5 hours from Los Angeles, and 15 hours from London, not including layovers.

Carriers

From Honolulu and Neighbor Islands

Two main carriers, Aloha Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines, offer daily round-trip flights from Honolulu and Neighbor Islands to Lihu'e Airport. Rates fluctuate from $70 to $100 one-way. It's generally a 20- to 40-minute flight, depending on where you start. Aloha Airlines (PHONE:808/245-3691 or 800/367-5250; www.alohaairlines.com).

Hawaiian Airlines (PHONE:808/838-1555 or 800/882-8811; www.hawaiianair.com).

From the Mainland U.S.

United Airlines (PHONE:800/241-6522; www.ual.com) has a daily direct flight from Los Angeles and San Francisco to Lihu'e Airport.

From the U.K.

Air New Zealand (PHONE:800/262-1234; www.airnewzealand.com).

American (PHONE:0345/789-789; www.aa.com).

British Airways (PHONE:0345/222-111; www.britishairways.com).

Continental (PHONE:800/523-3273; www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE:0800/414-767; www.delta.com).

United (PHONE:0800/888-555; www.ual.com).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE:01293/747-747; www.virgin-atlantic.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Car

Lihu'e Airport is a five-minute drive from Lihu'e. If you're staying in Wailua or Kapa'a, your driving time from Lihu'e is 15 minutes; to Princeville and Hanalei it's about 45 minutes. A charter flight into Princeville might save you a few minutes, but it's not worth the additional cost.

To the south, it's a 30-minute drive from Lihu'e to Po'ipu, the major resort area. To Waimea it takes one hour, and if you choose the rustic accommodations in the hills of Koke'e, allow a good hour and a half of driving time from Lihu'e.

By Limousine

For luxurious transportation between the airport and your accommodations, contact Custom Limousine Service (PHONE:808/246-6318). Rates are $75 per hour, with a two-hour minimum. It also has packages that include lei greetings, wedding arrangements, and tours.

North Shore Limousine (PHONE:808/826-6189) specializes in service in the Hanalei and Princeville areas; it can pick you up at Princeville Airport.

By Shuttle Bus

Check with your hotel or condo to see if it offers free shuttle service from the airport.

By Taxi

Taxi fares around the island are $2 at the meter drop plus $2 per mile. That means a taxicab from Lihu'e Airport to Lihu'e town runs about $6 and to Po'ipu about $32, excluding tip.

Akiko's Taxi (PHONE:808/822-7588) offers its services from the east side of the island.

Po'ipu Taxi (PHONE:808/639-2042 or 808/639-2044) will take you to Lihu'e and Po'ipu.

Scotty Taxi (PHONE:808/245-7888 or 808/639-9807) provides quick service around the airport and Lihu'e.

From the Princeville Airport to Hanalei, you pay about $14 when you ride with the North Shore Cab Company (PHONE:808/826-6189), which serves only the northeast portion of the island.

A romantic way to visit Kaua'i for a short time is to book passage on an interisland cruise ship. Norwegian Cruise Lines has introduced a 7- and 10-day Hawaiian Island cruise on its luxurious Norwegian Sky, which departs each week and stops at the other four main Hawaiian islands. Sightseeing and shore excursions are available at each port. On Kaua'i, the ships dock at Nawiliwili on the southeast coast. Optional extension packages allow you to add a hotel stay before or after the cruise in the port of your choice.

Norwegian Cruise Lines (7665 Corporate Center Dr., Miami, FL, 33126, PHONE:800/343-0098; www.ncl.com).

Even people in paradise have to work. Generally local business hours are weekdays 8-5. Banks are usually open Monday-Thursday 8:30-3 and until 6 on Friday. Some banks have Saturday-morning hours.

Many self-serve gas stations stay open around-the-clock, with full-service stations usually open from around 7 AM until 9 PM. U.S. post offices are open weekdays 8:30 AM-4:30 PM and Saturday 8:30-noon.

Museums and Sights

Most museums generally open their doors between 9 AM and 10 AM and stay open until 5 PM Tuesday-Saturday. Many museums operate with afternoon hours only on Sunday and close on Monday. Visitor-attraction hours vary throughout the state, but most sights are open daily with the exception of major holidays such as Christmas. Check local newspapers upon arrival for attraction hours and schedules if visiting over holiday periods. The local dailies carry a listing of "What's Open/What's Not" for those time periods.

Shops

Stores in resort areas sometimes open as early as 8, with shopping-center opening hours varying from 9:30 to 10 on weekdays and Saturday, a bit later on Sunday. Bigger malls stay open until 9 weekdays and Saturday and close at 5 on Sunday. Boutiques in resort areas may stay open as late as 11.

In Hawai'i

Plants and plant products are subject to regulation by the Department of Agriculture, both on entering and leaving Hawai'i. Upon leaving the Islands, you'll have to have your bags X-rayed and tagged at one of the airport's agricultural inspection stations before you proceed to check-in. Pineapples and coconuts with the packer's agricultural inspection stamp pass freely; papayas must be treated, inspected, and stamped. All other fruits are banned for export to the U.S. mainland. Flowers pass except for gardenia, rose leaves, jade vine, and mauna loa. Also banned are insects, snails, soil, cotton, cacti, sugarcane, and all berry plants.

You'll have to leave dogs and other pets at home. A strict six-month quarantine is imposed to keep out rabies, which is nonexistent in Hawai'i.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229, PHONE:202/354-1000; www.customs.gov).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036, PHONE:202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001, PHONE:202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate (900 Richards St., Room 414, Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/543-7900).

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE:911).

Fire (PHONE:911).

Police (PHONE:911 or 808/935-3311).

Doctors

Wilcox Memorial Hospital's Kaua'i Medical Clinic (KMC) (3420-B Kuhio Hwy., Lihu'e, PHONE:808/245-1500; 808/245-2471 for pharmacy; 808/245-1831 for 24-hr on-call physicians; 808/338-9431 for after-hours emergencies) has a staff with 32 different specialties. It has lab and X-ray facilities, physical therapy, optometry, and emergency rooms. The main clinic is in Lihu'e. Major emergency cases are often air-lifted to O'ahu.

Hospitals

West Kaua'i Medical Center (4643 Waimea Canyon Dr., Waimea, PHONE:808/338-9431) serves the area from Po'ipu to Kekaha.

Wilcox Memorial Hospital (3420 Kuhio Hwy., Lihu'e, PHONE:808/245-1100) is one of the top 100 in the country.

Pharmacies

Except for Longs Drugs, which often stays open until 9, most pharmacies close about 5 PM on Kaua'i. The Kaua'i Medical Clinic has a well-stocked pharmacy at its main clinic.

Longs Drugs (Kukui Grove Center, Rte. 50, Lihu'e, PHONE:808/245-8871).

Safeway Food and Drug (Kaua'i Village Shopping Center, 4-831 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa'a, PHONE:808/822-2191).

Shoreview Pharmacy (4-1177 Kuhio Hwy., Suite 113, Kapa'a, PHONE:808/822-1447).

Westside Pharmacy (1-3845 Kaumuali'i Hwy., Hanapepe, PHONE:808/335-5342).

Hawai'i was admitted to the Union in 1959, so residents can be pretty sensitive when visitors refer to their own hometowns as "back in the States." Remember, when in Hawai'i, refer to the contiguous 48 states as "the mainland" and not as the United States. When you do, you won't appear to be such a malahini (newcomer).

There are three major methods for getting a good guided look at the Garden Isle: by land, by sea, and by air. You can book these tours through the travel desk of your hotel or call directly.

Tour companies use big air-conditioned buses as well as smaller, more personalized vans. When making reservations, ask what vehicle it is and which tours let you get off and look around. Guides are friendly and generally know their island inside out -- tip them $10 or more per person for their efforts.

If you're interested in a north-shore sea excursion, be forewarned that big winter waves often cause trips to be canceled, so call first to find out if the company you're interested in is operating.

Boat Tours

A great way to take a look at Kaua'i is by boat, including kayak rentals and half-day tours.

Intrepid explorers can traverse mountains, rivers, and ocean on a Kayak Kaua'i. Discovery Tour. For $1,550 (including accommodations, ground transportation, and meals), you get a seven-day paddling and hiking adventure with six nights spent in out-of-the-way inns and cottages.

Cruise boats depart Wailua Marina at the mouth of the Wailua River for the Fern Grotto. Round-trip excursions, on 150-passenger flat-bottom riverboats, take an hour and a half, including time to walk around the grotto and environs. During the boat ride, guitar and 'ukulele players regale you with Hawaiian melodies and tell the history of the river. The 3-mi upriver trip culminates at a yawning lava tube that is covered with enormous fishtail ferns. Two companies offer several trips daily to Fern Grotto.

Wai'ale'ale Boat Tours (6455 Makana Rd., Kapa'a, 96746, PHONE:808/822-4908) is well known for its Fern Grotto expedition ($16).

Smith's Motor Boat Services (174 Wailua Rd., Kapa'a, 96746, PHONE:808/821-6892, $16) tours get passengers involved in singing and learning hula while on board.

Captain Andy's Sailing Adventures. has a 55-ft catamaran Spirit of Kaua'i that takes passengers on a two-hour sunset sail along the south shore. Hors d'oeuvres and beverages are included in the $59 cost. Captain Andy also offers a five-hour Na Pali Coast cruise from Port Allen with breakfast and lunch for $109. This is Kaua'i's best-known boat operator, famous for big buffet meals.

Liko Kaua'i Cruises. tour the northern coastline in a 49-ft powered catamaran while captains share Hawaiian history and legends. Boats depart for four-hour tours -- with time for snorkeling, a deli lunch, and whale-watching in season -- from Kikiaola Harbor in Waimea for $110.

Na Pali Explorer (9935 Kaumuali'i Hwy., Waimea, 96796, PHONE:808/338-9999 or 877/335-9909; www.napali-explorer.com) departs at 7:30 AM from Kikiaola Harbor in Waimea to tour the Na Pali Coast (weather permitting) in a 48-ft adventure craft with an onboard toilet, freshwater shower, and shade canopy. Scenic 3½-hour cruises include a snack; longer snorkel trips include Continental breakfast and a picnic lunch, snorkel gear, and a Hawaiian cultural specialist to answer questions. Zodiac boat trips make a Na Pali beach landing. Rates range from $79 to $118, and charters are available.

All-Terrain-VehicleTours

You get way off the beaten track with Aloha Kaua'i Tours (1702 Haleukana St., Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-6400 or 800/452-1113; www.alohakauaitours.com), which runs four-wheel-drive van excursions into Koke'e, along the rugged side of Waimea Canyon, to the top of Kilohana Crater, or into the rain forests and the crater of Wai'ale'ale. Also offered are a half-day back-roads tour, bike and hike tours, and a "SeaFun" snorkeling tour. Prices range from $60 to $125.

You must be 16 or older to operate your own ATV, but Kaua'i ATV Tours (3412 Weliweli Rd., Koloa, 96756, PHONE:808/742-2734 or 877/707-7088; www.kauaiatv.com) also offers its "Mud Hog" six-passenger dune-buggy vehicle that can accommodate families with kids age five and older. The $90 three-hour jaunt takes you through a private sugar plantation and historic cane-haul tunnel. The $145 four-hour tour visits secluded waterfalls and includes lunch. The longer excursion includes a hike through a bamboo forest and a swim in a freshwater pool at the base of the falls.

Helicopter Tours

From the air, the Garden Isle blossoms wth views you cannot see by land, foot, or sea. In an hour you can see waterfalls, craters, and places that are inaccessible even by hiking trails. Expect to pay $125 or more per person for the longest, most comprehensive tours, but call around for itineraries. A shorter, less-expensive flight might suit your needs. Don't be afraid to ask about the pilot's experience and safety record. Most, but not all, companies use top-of-the-line equipment, and the operators listed below have reliable flight experience. There are 20 companies flying on Kaua'i, so if you don't like what you see, keep looking. Ask about special discounts sometimes available with coupons from free visitors' pamphlets. For both safety and comfort, single passengers weighing 250 pounds or more, or couples with a combined weight of 450 pounds or more, are required to purchase an additional seat.

Jack Harter Helicopters (4231 Ahukini Rd., Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-3774 or 888/245-2001; www.helicopters-kauai.com) is the originator of heli-tours on Kaua'i. In the air since the early 1960s, it has a perfect safety record and a modern fleet and offers both 60- and 90-minute air tours.

Air Kaua'i (3651 Ahukini Rd., Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/246-4666 or 800/972-4666; www.airkauai.com) has A-Star choppers with all-glass doors for amazing views.

Island Helicopters (Lihu'e Airport, Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-8588 or 800/829-5999; www.islandhelicopters.com) gives you a free video of your tour.

South Sea Tour Co. (4480 Ahukini Rd., Suite 204, Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-2222 or 800/367-2914; www.southseashelicopters.com) has a choice of tours available from Lihu'e.

Will Squyres Helicopter Tours (3222 Kuhio Hwy., Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-8881 or 888/245-4354; www.helicopters-hawaii.com) offers group rates and charters from Lihu'e Airport.

Ni'ihau Tour

It takes only 12 minutes to fly from Kaua'i to an island that few outsiders have set foot on since 1864. This 72-square-mi island 17 mi from Kaua'i is now run by the Robinson family, who raise cattle and sheep on the barren land. Bruce Robinson initiated Ni'ihau Helicopters in 1984 in order to supplement the cost of medical evacuation via helicopter for residents. Tours avoid the western coastline, especially the village of Pu'uwai, where the island's 200 residents live. Flights depart from and return to Kaumakani. There's a four-passenger minimum for each flight, and reservations are essential. Ground transportation is not available. A picnic lunch on a secluded Ni'ihau beach is included along with time for swimming and snorkeling. The half-day tour is $280 per person.

For more information, contact Ni'ihau Tours.

Orientation Tours

The Round-the-Island Tour, sometimes called the Wailua River/Waimea Canyon Tour, gives a good overview of the island including Ft. Elisabeth, 'Opaeka'a Falls, and Menehune Fishpond. Guests are transported in air-conditioned 17-passenger minivans. The trip includes a boat ride up the Wailua River to Fern Grotto, and then a drive around the island to lookouts above Waimea Canyon.

Companies offering Round-the-Island ground tours include Roberts Hawai'i Tours.

The Best of Kaua'i is a whirlwind daylong tour, sponsored by Kaua'i North Shore Limousine and Tours., for $175 per person. It includes a visit to Kilohana, a refurbished plantation mansion in Lihu'e; a boat ride to the Fern Grotto; a tour of Kilauea Lighthouse; and a helicopter tour. Ground transportation is in 15-passenger, air-conditioned vans. They will pick you up at Lihu'e Airport or at your hotel if it's on the north or east side of the island.

Kaua'i Island Tours. will arrange charter tours around Kaua'i in anything from a passenger car to a 57-person motorcoach.

Theme Tours

Gay and Robinson Tours (423 Kaumakani Ave., Kaumakani, 96747, PHONE:808/335-2824; www.gandrtours-kauai.com) can take you on a sugar plantation, field, and factory tour. Venturing into where the cane is grown, you learn about the history of sugar in Hawai'i; then you head to Kaua'i's last working sugar mill to see the refining process. Tours are offered weekdays at 8:45 and 12:45 for $30. Another option is the sugar and ranch-land tour, which revisits old ranch roads and Waimea Canyon destinations that were popular prior to World War II. The views include the rugged Olokele Canyon. The cost is $60, including lunch.

Hawai'i Movie Tours (356 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa'a, 96746, PHONE:808/822-1192 or 800/628-8432; www.hawaiimovietour.com) has minibuses with in-van television monitors that let you see the actual scenes of films while visiting the real locations used for the filming of Jurassic Park,Raiders of the Lost Ark,South Pacific,Blue Hawaii, Gilligan's Island, and more. One stop is for a picnic lunch at 'Anini Beach. The standard land tour is $95, and the four-wheel-drive Off Road Tour is $113.

Walking Tours

History buffs curious about Kapa'a's sugarcane-, pineapple-, and rice-growing past and the World War II years will enjoy Kapa'a History Tour-Kaua'i's Historical Society (4-1250 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa'a, 96746, PHONE:808/245-3373), a 90-minute laid-back stroll from the Pono Kai Resort at the gateway of Kapa'a town. This insider's look led by locals tells the story of Kapa'a's Japanese stone lantern. Tours take place on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 10 AM and 4 PM and cost $15.

To see a rapidly vanishing lifestyle, take the unique, volunteer-led Plantation Lifestyles Walking Tour. through the residential housing of a real mill camp. In the shadow of the old sugar mill, the dirt lanes of the 70-year-old camp are shaded by fruit trees and tropical gardens, and sometimes elderly residents come out to say aloha. Reservations are needed for the $10 1½-hour to 2-hour tours that begin at 9 AM every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at Waimea Plantation Cottages.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

Many of the Islands' best attractions and activities, such as beaches and hiking, can be found in the form of natural beauty and cost nothing to view. You'll pay 50¢ for a daily newspaper, $1.50 to ride the bus anywhere on O'ahu, and from $45 on up to attend a lu'au. Large museums cost between $8 and $15 per entry; smaller ones can cost from $3 to $6.

ATMs

Automatic teller machines for easy access to cash are everywhere on the Islands. ATMs can be found in shopping centers, small convenience and grocery stores, inside hotels and resorts, as well as outside most bank branches. For a directory of locations, call 800/424-7787 for the MasterCard Cirrus Maestro network or 800/843-7587 for the Visa Plus network.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

There is a 4.16% state sales tax on all purchases, including food. A hotel room tax of 7.25%, combined with the sales tax of 4%, equals an 11.25% rate added onto your hotel bill.

A $3-per-day road tax is also assessed on each rental vehicle.

Tipping

Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare. Standard tips for restaurants and bar tabs run from 15% to 20% of the bill, depending on the standard of service. Bellhops at hotels usually receive $1 per bag, more if you have bulky items such as bicycles and surfboards. Tip the hotel room maid $1 per night, paid daily. Tip doormen $1 for assistance with taxis; tips for concierge vary depending on the service. For example, tip more for "hard-to-get" event tickets or dining reservations.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE:09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland, PHONE:028/9032-8239; www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000, PHONE:02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line; www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE:04/462-6000; usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE:09/303-2724; usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Hawai'i is generally a safe tourist destination, but it's still wise to follow the same common sense safety precautions you would normally follow in your own hometown. Hotel and visitor-center staff can provide information should you decide to head out on your own to more remote areas. Rental cars are magnets for break-ins, so don't leave any valuables in the car, not even in a locked trunk. Avoid poorly lighted areas, beach parks, and isolated areas after dark as a precaution.

When hiking, stay on marked trails, no matter how alluring the temptation might be to stray. Weather conditions can cause landscapes to become muddy, slippery, and tenuous, so staying on marked trails will lessen the possibility of a fall or getting lost.

Ocean safety is of the utmost importance when visiting an island destination. Don't swim alone, and follow the international signage posted at beaches that alerts swimmers to strong currents, man-of-war jellyfish, sharp coral, high surf, sharks, and dangerous shore breaks. At coastal lookouts along cliff tops, heed the signs indicating that waves can climb over the ledges. Check with lifeguards at each beach for current conditions, and if the red flags are up, indicating swimming and surfing are not allowed, don't go in. Waters that look calm on the surface can harbor strong currents and undertows, and not a few people who were just wading have been dragged out to sea.

Local Scams

Be wary of those hawking "too good to be true" prices on everything from car rentals to attractions. Many of these offers are just a lure to get you in the door for time-share presentations. When handed a flyer, read the fine print before you make your decision to participate.

Women in Hawai'i

Women traveling alone are generally safe in the Islands, but always follow the safety precautions you would use in any major destination. When booking hotels, request rooms closest to the elevator, and always keep your hotel-room door and balcony doors locked. Stay away from isolated areas after dark; camping and hiking solo are not advised. If you stay out late visiting nightclubs and bars, use caution when exiting night spots and returning to your lodging.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Kaua'i is 808.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE:800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE:800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE:800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Offices

The Kaua'i Visitors Bureau (4334 Rice St., Suite 101, Lihu'e, 96766, PHONE:808/245-3971 or 800/262-1400, FAX: 808/246-9235, www.kauaivisitorsbureau.com), the local island chapter of the Hawai'i Visitors and Convention Bureau, is on Rice Street, Lihu'e's main thoroughfare, near the Kaua'i Museum.

Activity centers such as Pahio Activities (3970 Wyllie Rd., Princeville, 96722, PHONE:808/826-6549; www.pahio.com) will help you book tours, arrange sporting excursions, rent cars, reserve rooms in hotels and condos, and even plan weddings. There are four locations in Princeville and one at the Radisson.

Po'ipu Beach Resort Association. is the central source of information about the south shore. You can make on-line reservations through the organization's Web site, and maps and brochures are sent on request.

At Home

Before you go, contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB) (Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, 96815, PHONE:808/923-1811 or 800/464-2924; www.gohawaii.com) for general information on each island, free brochures that include an accommodations and car-rental guide, and an entertainment and dining listing containing one-line descriptions of bureau members. Take a virtual visit to Hawai'i on the Web, which can be most helpful in planning many aspects of your vacation. The HVCB site has a calendar section that allows you to see what local events are in place during the time of your stay.

In the U.K. contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau. Send a £2 check or postal order for an information pack.

Hawai'i Attractions Association (PHONE:808/596-7733; www.hawaiiattractions.com).

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE:905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London, W1A 1EN, PHONE:020/7495-4466).

Long days of sunshine and fairly mild year-round temperatures make Hawai'i an all-season destination. Most resort areas are at sea level, with average afternoon temperatures of 75°F-80°F during the coldest months of December and January; during the hottest months of August and September the temperature often reaches 90°F. Only at high elevations does the temperature drop into the colder realms, and only at mountain summits does it reach freezing.

Most travelers head to the Islands during winter. From mid-December through mid-April, visitors from the mainland and other areas covered with snow find Hawai'i's sun-splashed beaches and balmy trade winds appealing. This high season means that fewer travel bargains are available; room rates average 10%-15% higher during this season than the rest of the year.

Rainfall can be high in winter, particularly on the north and east shores of each island. Generally speaking, you are guaranteed sun and warm temperatures on the west and south shores no matter what time of year. Kaua'i's and the Big Island's northern sections get more annual rainfall than the rest of Hawai'i, and so much rain falls on Kaua'i's Mount Wai'ale'ale (approximately 472 inches of rain, or 39 ft), that it's considered the wettest place on earth.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Kaua'i:

January 65-80°F (18 to 27°C); February 65-80°F (18-27°C); March 69-81°F (21-27°C); April 69-83°F (21-28°C); May 70-85°F (21-29°C); June 72-86°F (22-30°C); July 73-87°F (23-31°C); August 74-88°F (23-31°C); September 73-88°F (23-31°C); October 72-87°F (22-31°C); November 69-84°F (21-29°C); December 67-81°F (19-27°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

In addition, Hawai'i celebrates Prince Kuhio Day (Mar. 26), King Kamehameha Day (June 11), and Admission Day (3rd Fri. in Aug.). State, city, and county offices as well as many local companies are closed for business.

Renting a car is definitely recommended for those who plan to move beyond their hotel beach chair. Public transportation is extremely limited, and you may want a car if you plan to explore or if you have time constraints.

Remember that Hawai'i residents refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean) from one another. Other directions depend on your location: in Honolulu, for example, people say to "go Diamond Head," which means toward that famous landmark, or to "go 'ewa," meaning in the opposite direction.

A two-wheeler is an exciting way to cruise around the Garden Isle. Kaua'i's country roads are generally uncrowded, so you can ride along at your own pace and enjoy the views. There are few designated bike lanes, but as long as you exercise caution on the busier thoroughfares, you should be fine. You can rent bikes from the activities desks of certain hotels and at sports outfitters.

Bike maps are available from the Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Kaua'i (PHONE:808/274-3433).

Kaua'i Cycle and Tour (PHONE:808/821-2115) rents bicycles.

Outfitters Kaua'i (PHONE:808/742-9667) rents bicycles.

The Kaua'i Bus (PHONE:808/241-6410) travels two main routes, one going north to Hanalei from Lihu'e and one going south from Lihu'e to Kekaha. Routes don't come close to many of the island's resorts or best-known attractions but do wind through residential towns.

Although Kaua'i is relatively small, its sights stretch across the island. You can walk to the stores and restaurants in your resort area, but major attractions are not within walking distance.

Kaua'i has its fair share of crime. Lock your car wherever you park it. Don't leave valuables in the car, even in the trunk. Pay attention to parking signs, particularly in Lihu'e.

Regardless of today's fluctuating gas prices, you can pretty much count on having to pay more at the pump for gasoline in the Islands than on the U.S. mainland.

Car Rentals

Unless you plan to do all of your sightseeing as part of guided tours, you will want a rental car on Kaua'i, since the attractions are sprinkled from one end of the island to the other. Reserve your vehicle in advance, especially during the peak seasons of summer, the Christmas holidays, and February.

Right across from baggage claim at Lihu'e Airport are several rental-car counters, as well as vans that will shuttle you to rental offices nearby. Rental companies also have desks at Princeville Airport.]i begin at about $40 a day for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. A $3-per-day road tax is also assessed on each rental vehicle.

A fly/drive deal can sometimes reduce that cost, and many hotels -- and even some condos -- offer packages that include rental cars.

Several companies operate small reservation desks at major hotels, but spur-of-the-moment rentals will cost you more than pre-arranged ones. Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National, and Thrifty have offices at the Lihu'e Airport. Avis has offices at the Hyatt Regency.

You may get some good deals on a car if you book with one of Kaua'i's local budget or used-car rental companies. Westside U-Drive, which rents cars and jeeps, is reliable. It keeps its vehicles in good shape and offers free delivery and pickup of your car at your hotel or condo in Po'ipu.

On Kaua'i

Alamo (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:808/246-0646 or 800/327-9633; www.alamo.com).

Avis (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:800/831-8000; www.avis.com).

Budget (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:800/527-0700; www.budget.com).

Dollar (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:800/342-7398; 800/800-4000 from outside HI; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:800/654-3011; www.hertz.com).

National (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com).

Thrifty (Lihu'e Airport, HI, USA, PHONE:808/246-6252 or 800/847-4389; www.thrifty.com).

Westside U-Drive (4552 Ehako St., Kalaheo, PHONE:808/332-8644).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE:800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom; www.nationalcar.com).

Thrifty (PHONE:800/367-2277; www.thrifty.com).

Requirements

In Hawai'i you must be 21 years of age to rent a car and you must have a valid driver's license and a major credit card. Your unexpired mainland driver's license is valid for rental for up to 90 days. Those under 25 will pay a daily surcharge.

When picking up a rental car, non-U.S. residents need a reservation voucher for any prepaid reservations that were made in the traveler's home country, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver.

Road Conditions

Kaua'i has a well-maintained highway running south from Lihu'e to Barking Sands Beach; a spur at Waimea takes you along Waimea Canyon to Koke'e State Park. A northern route also winds its way from Lihu'e to end at Ha'ena, the beginning of the rugged and roadless Na Pali Coast. Your rental-car company will supply you with a map with enlargements of each area of the island.

The traffic on Kaua'i is pretty light most of the time, except in the Lihu'e and Kapa'a areas during rush hour (6:30 AM to 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM to 5:30 PM), and heading south to Po'ipu.

Major attractions are indicated by road signs depicting King Kamehameha wearing a red cape.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to buckle up. Hawai'i has a strictly enforced seat-belt law for front-seat passengers. Children under 40 pounds must be in a car seat, available from your car-rental agency. Children 18 and under, riding in the backseat, are also required by state law to use seat belts.

The highway speed limit is usually 55 mph. In-town traffic moves from 25 to 40 mph. Jaywalking is very common, so be particularly watchful for pedestrians. Unauthorized use of a parking space reserved for persons with disabilities can net you a $150 fine.

Cabs can be costly on Kaua'i. Each mile is $2, after a $2 meter drop; from Lihu'e to Po'ipu the price is $32, so from Lihu'e to Princeville is $60, excluding tip. Use a cab for short distances only (to a restaurant, for instance).

Akiko's Taxi (5258 Laipo Rd., HI, USA, PHONE:808/822-7588 or 808/634-6018) operates from Kapa'a and offers minivans in its fleet.

City Cab (2979 Ohiohi St., HI, USA, PHONE:808/245-3227 or 808/639-7932) is a reliable taxi company with island-wide services. It uses Lihu'e as a home base.

Based in Princeville, North Shore Cab Company (4480 Ka Haku Rd., HI, USA, PHONE:808/826-4118 or 808/639-7829) provides complete ground handling services for the north and east sections of the island.