You can fly to Maui from the mainland United States or from Honolulu. Maui is the most visited of the Neighbor Islands and therefore the easiest to connect to on an interisland flight. Honolulu-Kahului is one of the most heavily traveled air routes in the nation.

Hawai'i's major airport is Honolulu International Airport (HNL) (PHONE:808/836-6411; www.ehawaiigov.org), on O'ahu, 20 minutes (9 mi) west of Waikiki. To travel interisland from Honolulu, you can depart from either the interisland terminal or the commuter-airline terminal, located in two separate structures adjacent to the main overseas terminal building. A free bus service, the Wiki Wiki Shuttle, operates between terminals.

Kahului Airport (OGG) (PHONE:808/872-3800 or 808/872-3830) is efficient and remarkably easy to navigate. Its main disadvantage is its distance from the major resort destinations in West Maui. Kahului is the only airport on Maui that has direct service from the mainland.

If you're staying in West Maui, you might be better off flying into the Kapalua-West Maui Airport (JHM) (PHONE:808/669-0623). The only way to get to the Kapalua-West Maui Airport is on an interisland flight from Honolulu because the short runway accommodates only small planes. Set in the midst of a pineapple field with a terrific view of the ocean far below, the little airport provides one of the most pleasant ways to arrive on the Valley Isle.

Hana Airport (PHONE:808/248-8208) isn't much more than a landing strip. Only commuter Aloha Island Air flies here, landing twice a day from Honolulu (via Moloka'i and Kahului) and departing 10 minutes later. The morning flight originates in Princeville, Kaua'i. When there is no flight, the tiny terminal usually stands eerily empty, with no gate agents, ticket takers, or other people in sight.

Flight time from the West Coast to Maui is about 5 hours; from the Midwest, expect about an 8-hour flight; and coming from the East Coast will take about 10 hours, not including layovers.

Carriers

From the Mainland U.S.

American (PHONE:808/833-7600 or 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) flies into Kahului, with one stop in Honolulu, from Dallas and Chicago and nonstop from Los Angeles.

Delta (PHONE:800/221-1212; www.delta.com) has through service to Maui daily from Salt Lake City, Atlanta, and Los Angeles and one nonstop flight daily from Los Angeles.

Hawaiian Airlines (PHONE:808/838-1555 or 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) has direct flights to Kahului from the U.S. West Coast.

United (PHONE:800/241-6522; www.ual.com) flies nonstop to Kahului from Los Angeles and San Francisco.

From Honolulu

Continental, Hawaiian, and Northwest fly from the mainland to Honolulu, where Maui-bound passengers can connect with a 40-minute interisland flight. Flights generally run about $75 one-way between Honolulu and Maui and are available from Hawaiian Airlines, Aloha Airlines, and Island Air.

Aloha Airlines (PHONE:808/244-9071; 800/367-5250 from U.S. mainland; www.alohaairlines.com).

Continental (PHONE:800/523-3273; www.continental.com).

Hawaiian Airlines (PHONE:808/838-1555 or 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com).

Island Air (PHONE:800/652-6541; www.islandair.com).

Northwest/KLM (PHONE:808/955-2255 or 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com).

From the U.K.

Air New Zealand (PHONE:800/262-1234; www.airnewzealand.com).

American (PHONE:0345/789-789; www.aa.com).

British Airways (PHONE:0345/222-111; www.britishairways.com).

Continental (PHONE:800/523-3273; www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE:0800/414-767; www.delta.com).

United (PHONE:0800/888-555; www.ual.com).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE:01293/747-747; www.virgin-atlantic.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Car

The best way to get from the airport to your destination -- and to see the island itself -- is in your own rental car. Most major car-rental companies have desks or courtesy phones at each airport. They also can provide a map and directions to your hotel from the airport.

It will take you about an hour, with traffic in your favor, to get from Kahului Airport to a hotel in Kapalua or Ka'anapali and 30 to 40 minutes to go to Kihei or Wailea.

If you are flying into Hana Airport and staying at the Hotel Hana-Maui, your flight will be met. If you have reserved a rental car, the agent will usually know your arrival time and meet you. Otherwise you can call Dollar Rent A Car to pick you up.

By Shuttle

Shuttles run between the airport and the Ka'anapali and Kapalua resorts during daylight hours at regular intervals.

By Taxi

Maui has more than two dozen taxi companies, and they make frequent passes through the Kahului and Kapalua-West Maui airports. Charges from Kahului Airport to Ka'anapali run about $49; to Wailea, about $31; and to Lahaina, about $42.

If you don't see a cab, you can call La Bella Taxi (PHONE:808/242-8011) for island-wide service from the airport.

Call Kihei Taxi (PHONE:808/879-3000) if you're staying in the Kihei, Wailea, or Makena area.

Approaching the Valley Isle on the deck of a ship is an unforgettable experience. Watching the land loom ever larger conjures up the same kinds of feelings the early Polynesians probably had on their first voyage -- except they didn't get the kind of lavish treatment those on board a luxury cruise ship routinely receive.

You can book passage through American Hawai'i Cruises (2 North Riverside Plaza, Chicago, IL, 60606, PHONE:312/466-6000 or 800/765-7000), which offers seven-day interisland cruises departing from Honolulu on the S.S. Constitution and the S.S. Independence. Or ask about the company's seven-day cruise-resort combination packages.

Even people in paradise have to work. Generally local business hours are weekdays 8-5. Banks are usually open Monday-Thursday 8:30-3 and until 6 on Friday. Some banks have Saturday-morning hours.

Many self-serve gas stations stay open around-the-clock, with full-service stations usually open from around 7 AM until 9 PM. U.S. post offices are open weekdays 8:30 AM-4:30 PM and Saturday 8:30-noon.

Museums and Sights

Most museums generally open their doors between 9 AM and 10 AM and stay open until 5 PM Tuesday-Saturday. Many museums operate with afternoon hours only on Sunday and close on Monday. Visitor-attraction hours vary throughout the state, but most sights are open daily with the exception of major holidays such as Christmas. Check local newspapers upon arrival for attraction hours and schedules if visiting over holiday periods. The local dailies carry a listing of "What's Open/What's Not" for those time periods.

Shops

Stores in resort areas sometimes open as early as 8, with shopping-center opening hours varying from 9:30 to 10 on weekdays and Saturday, a bit later on Sunday. Bigger malls stay open until 9 weekdays and Saturday and close at 5 on Sunday. Boutiques in resort areas may stay open as late as 11.

In Hawai'i

Plants and plant products are subject to regulation by the Department of Agriculture, both on entering and leaving Hawai'i. Upon leaving the Islands, you'll have to have your bags X-rayed and tagged at one of the airport's agricultural inspection stations before you proceed to check-in. Pineapples and coconuts with the packer's agricultural inspection stamp pass freely; papayas must be treated, inspected, and stamped. All other fruits are banned for export to the U.S. mainland. Flowers pass except for gardenia, rose leaves, jade vine, and mauna loa. Also banned are insects, snails, soil, cotton, cacti, sugarcane, and all berry plants.

You'll have to leave dogs and other pets at home. A strict six-month quarantine is imposed to keep out rabies, which is nonexistent in Hawai'i.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20229, PHONE:202/354-1000; www.customs.gov).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20036, PHONE:202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20001, PHONE:202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Consulate (900 Richards St., Room 414, Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/543-7900).

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Consulate (1000 Bishop St., Honolulu, 96813, PHONE:808/524-5050).

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 20008, PHONE:202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

Ambulance (PHONE:911).

Coast Guard Rescue Center (PHONE:800/552-6458).

Fire (PHONE:911).

Police (PHONE:911).

Doctors

For medical assistance in West Maui, call Doctors on Call (Hyatt Regency Maui, Napili Tower, Suite 100, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina, PHONE:808/667-7676).

Kihei Clinic Medical Services (2349 S. Kihei Rd., Suite D, Kihei, PHONE:808/879-1440) is in the central part of the Valley Isle and is geared toward working with visitors in Kihei and Wailea.

West Maui Health Care Center (2435 Ka'anapali Pkwy., Suite H-7, Ka'anapali, PHONE:808/667-9721) is a walk-in clinic at Whalers Village created by two doctors in 1980 to treat visitors to West Maui. It is open daily from 8 AM to 10 PM.

Hospitals

Hana Medical Center (Hana Hwy., Hana, PHONE:808/248-8294).

Kula Hospital (204 Kula Hwy., Kula, PHONE:808/878-1221).

Maui Memorial Hospital (221 Mahalani St., Wailuku, PHONE:808/244-9056).

Hawai'i was admitted to the Union in 1959, so residents can be pretty sensitive when visitors refer to their own hometowns as "back in the States." Remember, when in Hawai'i, refer to the contiguous 48 states as "the mainland" and not as the United States. When you do, you won't appear to be such a malahini (newcomer).

Bus & Van Tours

This is a big island to see in one day, so tour companies combine various sections -- either Haleakala, 'Iao Needle, and West Maui, or Hana and its environs. Contact companies for their current offerings. Often hotels have tour desks to facilitate arrangements.

A tour of Haleakala and Upcountry is usually a half-day excursion and is offered in several versions by different companies for about $50 and up. The trip often includes stops at a protea farm and at Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery, the only place in Maui where wine is made. A Haleakala sunrise tour starts before dawn so that you can get to the top of the dormant volcano before the sun peeks over the horizon. Some companies throw in champagne to greet the sunrise.

A tour of Hana is almost always done in a van, since the winding road to Hana just doesn't provide a comfortable ride in bigger buses. Of late, Hana has so many of these one-day tours that it seems as if there are more vans than cars on the road. Still, to many it's a more relaxing way to do the drive than behind the wheel of a car. Guides decide where you stop for photos. Tours run from $70 to $120.

Ground tour companies are usually statewide and have a whole fleet of vehicles. Some use air-conditioned buses, whereas others prefer smaller vans. Then you've got your minivans, your microbuses, and your minicoaches. The key is how many passengers each will hold. Be sure to ask how many stops you'll get on your tour, or you may be disappointed to find that all your sightseeing is done through a window.

Most of the tour guides have been in the business for years. Some were born in the Islands and have taken special classes to learn more about their culture and lore. They expect a tip ($1 per person at least), but they're just as cordial without one.

Polynesian Adventure Tours (400 Hana Hwy., Kahului, 96732, PHONE:808/877-4242 or 800/622-3011; www.polyad.com) uses large buses with floor-to-ceiling windows. The drivers are fun and really know the island.

Roberts Hawai'i Tours. is one of the state's largest tour companies, and its staff can arrange tours with bilingual guides if asked ahead of time.

The president of Temptation Tours (211 'Ahinahina Pl., Kula, 96790, PHONE:808/877-8888), Dave Campbell, has targeted members of the affluent older crowd (though almost anyone would enjoy these tours) who don't want to be herded onto a crowded bus. He provides exclusive tours in his plush six-passenger limovan and specializes in full-day tours to Haleakala and Hana, ranging from $110 to $249. Dave's "Ultimate" Hana tour includes lunch at Hotel Hana-Maui.

Helicopter Tours

Helicopter flight-seeing excursions can take you over the West Maui Mountains, Hana, and Haleakala. This is a beautiful, exciting way to see the island, and the only way to see some of its most dramatic areas. Tour prices usually include a videotape of your trip so you can relive the experience at home. Prices run from about $125 for a half-hour rain-forest tour to $340 for a two-hour mega-experience that includes a champagne toast on landing.

It takes about 90 minutes to travel inside the volcano, then down to the village of Hana. Some companies stop in secluded areas for refreshments. Helicopter-tour operators throughout the state come under sharp scrutiny for passenger safety and equipment maintenance. Don't be afraid to ask about a company's safety record, flight paths, age of equipment, and level of operator experience. Noise levels are a concern as well; residents have become pretty vocal about regulating this kind of pollution.

The highly recommended Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (Kahului Heliport, Hangar 105, Kahului, 96732, PHONE:808/871-8844; www.bluehawaiian.com) has provided aerial adventures in Hawai'i since 1985, and it has the best service and safety record. Its ASTAR helicopters are air-conditioned and have noise-blocking headsets for all passengers.

Sunshine Helicopters (Kahului Heliport, Hangar 107, Kahului, 96732, PHONE:808/871-0722 or 800/544-2520; www.sunshinehelicopters.com) offers a Moloka'i flight in its Black Beauty aircraft.

Hiking & Walking Tours

Hike Maui. is the oldest hiking company in the Islands, and its rain-forest, mountain-ridge, crater, coastline, and archaeological-snorkel hikes are led by such knowledgeable folk as ethnobotanists and marine biologists. Prices range from $59 to $135 for hikes of 5 to 10 hours, including lunch. Hike Maui supplies waterproof day packs, rain ponchos, first-aid gear, water bottles, and transportation to the site.

Paths in Paradise. is a small company offering specialized hikes into wetlands, rain-forest areas, and the crater. The owner, Renate Gassman-Duvall, is an expert birder and biologist. She helps hikers spot native honeycreepers feeding on lehua blossoms and supplies them with bird and plant check cards. Half-day hikes run $110, and full-day hikes are $135, with lunch and gear provided.

In 'Iao Valley, the Hawai'i Nature Center (875 'Iao Valley Rd., Wailuku, 96793, PHONE:808/244-6500) leads interpretive hikes for children and their families.

Horseback Tours

Several companies on Maui offer horseback riding that's far more appealing than the typical hour-long trudge over a dull trail with 50 other horses.

Adventures on Horseback. conducts five-hour outings into secluded parts of Maui. The $185 tours traverse ocean cliffs on Maui's north shore, follow the slopes of Haleakala, and pass along streams, through rain forests, and near waterfalls, where riders can stop for a dip in a freshwater pool. Tours include breakfast, lunch, and refreshments.

Charley's Trail Rides & Pack Trips. require a stout physical nature -- but not a stout physique: riders must weigh less than 200 pounds. Overnight trips go from Kaupo -- a tiny village nearly 20 mi past Hana -- up the slopes of Haleakala, where you spend the night in the crater. Charley is a bona fide paniolo, and tours with him include meals, park fees, and camping supplies for $250 per person. Book several weeks in advance if you'd prefer a cabin instead of a tent.

Pony Express Tours. will take you on horseback into Haleakala Crater. The half-day ride goes down to the crater floor for a picnic lunch. The full-day excursion covers 12 mi of terrain and visits some of the crater's unusual formations. You don't need to be an experienced rider, but the longer ride can be tough if you're unathletic. The company also offers one- and two-hour rides on Haleakala Ranch for $55 to $155.

Theme Tours

Once you have your bearings, you may want a tour that's a bit more specialized. For example, you might want to bike down a volcano, ride an ATV, or immerse yourself in art.

Art lovers will admire the spectacular resort collections. A free tour of the art collection and gardens at the Hyatt Regency Maui (Ka'anapali Beach Resort, 200 Nokea Kai Dr., Lahaina, 96761, PHONE:808/661-1234) starts at 11 on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and winds through the multimillion-dollar collection of Asian and Pacific art. Among the treasures are Chinese cloisonné, Japanese dragon pots, Thai elephant bells, Hawaiian quilts, and contemporary work. If you're not fond of group tours, just pick up a copy of the hotel's "Art Guide" for a fascinating do-it-yourself experience.

The diverse art collection at the Grand Wailea (3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 96753, PHONE:808/875-1234) rivals that of an international art museum. Sculptures, artifacts, stained-glass windows, a 200,000-piece ceramic-tile mosaic, paintings, and assorted works by Léger, Warhol, Picasso, Botero, and noted Hawaiian artists decorate the grounds. Tours leave from the resort's Napua Gallery at 10 on Tuesday and Friday. Nonguests pay $6.

If biking down the side of Haleakala Crater sounds like fun, several companies are ready to assist you.

Maui Downhill (199 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 96732, PHONE:808/871-2155 or 800/535-2453; www.mauidownhill.net) vans will shuttle you to the mountaintop, help you onto a bike, and follow you as you coast down through clouds and gorgeous scenery. Lunch or breakfast is included, depending on your trip's start time; treks cost $150.

Maui Mountain Cruisers. bike trips are $125 including lunch; nonbikers can ride down Haleakala in a van for $55.

Haleakala ATV Tours. explore the mountainside in their own unique way: propelled through the forest on 350 cc, four-wheel-drive Honda Rancher all-terrain vehicles. The adventures begin at Haleakala Ranch and rev right up to the pristine Waikamoi rain-forest preserve. Kids under 15 ride alongside in the exciting Argo Conquest, an eight-wheeled amphibious vehicle. Two-hour trips go for $90, and 3½-hour trips are $139.

The Maui Pineapple Plantation Tour (Kapalua Resort Activity Desk, 500 Office Rd., Kapalua, 96761, PHONE:808/669-8088) takes you right into the fields in a company van. The 2½-hour, $26 trip gives you first-hand experience of the operation and its history, some incredible views of the island, and the chance to pick a fresh pineapple for yourself. Tours depart weekday mornings and afternoons from the Kapalua Logo Shop.

Hawai'i is known as the Health State. The life expectancy here is 79 years, the longest in the nation. Balmy weather makes it easy to remain active year-round, and the low-stress aloha attitude certainly contributes to general well-being. When visiting the Islands, however, there are a few health issues to keep in mind.

The Hawai'i State Department of Health recommends that you drink 16 ounces of water per hour to avoid dehydration when hiking or spending time in the sun. Use sunblock, wear UV-reflective sunglasses, and protect your head with a visor or hat for shade. If you're not acclimated to warm, humid weather you should allow plenty of time for rest stops and refreshments. When visiting freshwater streams, be aware of the tropical disease leptospirosis, which is spread by animal urine and carried into streams and mud. Symptoms include fever, headache, nausea, and red eyes. If left untreated it can cause liver and kidney damage, respiratory failure, internal bleeding, and even death. To avoid this, don't swim or wade in freshwater streams or ponds if you have open sores and don't drink from any freshwater streams or ponds.

In the Islands, fog is a rare occurrence, but there can often be "vog," an airborne haze of gases released from volcanic vents on the Big Island. During certain weather conditions such as "Kona Winds," the vog can settle over the Islands and wreak havoc with respiratory and other health conditions, especially asthma or emphysema. If susceptible, stay indoors and get emergency assistance if needed.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Pests and Other Hazards

The Islands have their share of bugs and insects that enjoy the tropical climate as much as visitors do. Most are harmless but annoying. When planning to spend time outdoors in hiking areas, wear long-sleeved clothing and long pants and use mosquito repellent containing deet. In very damp places you may encounter the dreaded local centipede. In the Islands they usually come in two colors, brown and blue, and they range from the size of a worm to an 8-inch cigar. Their sting is very painful, and the reaction is similar to bee- and wasp-sting reactions. When camping, shake out your sleeping bag before climbing in, and check your shoes in the morning, as the centipedes like cozy places. If planning on hiking or traveling in remote areas, always carry a first-aid kit and appropriate medications for sting reactions.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (one ounce or less) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

Many of the Islands' best attractions and activities, such as beaches and hiking, can be found in the form of natural beauty and cost nothing to view. You'll pay 50¢ for a daily newspaper, $1.50 to ride the bus anywhere on O'ahu, and from $45 on up to attend a lu'au. Large museums cost between $8 and $15 per entry; smaller ones can cost from $3 to $6.

ATMs

Automatic teller machines for easy access to cash are everywhere on the Islands. ATMs can be found in shopping centers, small convenience and grocery stores, inside hotels and resorts, as well as outside most bank branches. For a directory of locations, call 800/424-7787 for the MasterCard Cirrus Maestro network or 800/843-7587 for the Visa Plus network.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins and "golden" dollar coins (the latter introduced in 2000) are rarely seen in circulation. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

There is a 4.16% state sales tax on all purchases, including food. A hotel room tax of 7.25%, combined with the sales tax of 4%, equals an 11.25% rate added onto your hotel bill.

A $3-per-day road tax is also assessed on each rental vehicle.

Tipping

Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare. Standard tips for restaurants and bar tabs run from 15% to 20% of the bill, depending on the standard of service. Bellhops at hotels usually receive $1 per bag, more if you have bulky items such as bicycles and surfboards. Tip the hotel room maid $1 per night, paid daily. Tip doormen $1 for assistance with taxis; tips for concierge vary depending on the service. For example, tip more for "hard-to-get" event tickets or dining reservations.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE:09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London, W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, BT1 6EQ, Northern Ireland, PHONE:028/9032-8239; www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, NSW, 2000, PHONE:02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line; www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE:04/462-6000; usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE:09/303-2724; usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE:131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE:819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE:04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE:0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE:900/225-5674 calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service; $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Hawai'i is generally a safe tourist destination, but it's still wise to follow the same common sense safety precautions you would normally follow in your own hometown. Hotel and visitor-center staff can provide information should you decide to head out on your own to more remote areas. Rental cars are magnets for break-ins, so don't leave any valuables in the car, not even in a locked trunk. Avoid poorly lighted areas, beach parks, and isolated areas after dark as a precaution.

When hiking, stay on marked trails, no matter how alluring the temptation might be to stray. Weather conditions can cause landscapes to become muddy, slippery, and tenuous, so staying on marked trails will lessen the possibility of a fall or getting lost.

Ocean safety is of the utmost importance when visiting an island destination. Don't swim alone, and follow the international signage posted at beaches that alerts swimmers to strong currents, man-of-war jellyfish, sharp coral, high surf, sharks, and dangerous shore breaks. At coastal lookouts along cliff tops, heed the signs indicating that waves can climb over the ledges. Check with lifeguards at each beach for current conditions, and if the red flags are up, indicating swimming and surfing are not allowed, don't go in. Waters that look calm on the surface can harbor strong currents and undertows, and not a few people who were just wading have been dragged out to sea.

Local Scams

Be wary of those hawking "too good to be true" prices on everything from car rentals to attractions. Many of these offers are just a lure to get you in the door for time-share presentations. When handed a flyer, read the fine print before you make your decision to participate.

Women in Hawai'i

Women traveling alone are generally safe in the Islands, but always follow the safety precautions you would use in any major destination. When booking hotels, request rooms closest to the elevator, and always keep your hotel-room door and balcony doors locked. Stay away from isolated areas after dark; camping and hiking solo are not advised. If you stay out late visiting nightclubs and bars, use caution when exiting night spots and returning to your lodging.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Maui is 808.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE:800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE:800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE:800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Tourist Offices

The Maui Visitors Bureau (1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 96793, PHONE:800/525-6284, FAX: 808/244-1337, www.visitmaui.com) can provide you with brochures and information. Visitor Channel 7 televises visitor information 24 hours a day, including video tours, restaurant previews, and activities information.

National Weather Service/Maui Forecast (PHONE:808/877-5111) covers the islands of Maui, Moloka'i, and Lana'i.

At Home

Before you go, contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB) (Waikiki Business Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, 96815, PHONE:808/923-1811 or 800/464-2924; www.gohawaii.com) for general information on each island, free brochures that include an accommodations and car-rental guide, and an entertainment and dining listing containing one-line descriptions of bureau members. Take a virtual visit to Hawai'i on the Web, which can be most helpful in planning many aspects of your vacation. The HVCB site has a calendar section that allows you to see what local events are in place during the time of your stay.

In the U.K. contact the Hawai'i Visitors & Convention Bureau. Send a £2 check or postal order for an information pack.

Hawai'i Attractions Association (PHONE:808/596-7733; www.hawaiiattractions.com).

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE:905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London, W1A 1EN, PHONE:020/7495-4466).

Long days of sunshine and fairly mild year-round temperatures make Hawai'i an all-season destination. Most resort areas are at sea level, with average afternoon temperatures of 75°F-80°F during the coldest months of December and January; during the hottest months of August and September the temperature often reaches 90°F. Only at high elevations does the temperature drop into the colder realms, and only at mountain summits does it reach freezing.

Most travelers head to the Islands during winter. From mid-December through mid-April, visitors from the mainland and other areas covered with snow find Hawai'i's sun-splashed beaches and balmy trade winds appealing. This high season means that fewer travel bargains are available; room rates average 10%-15% higher during this season than the rest of the year.

Rainfall can be high in winter. Moist trade winds drop their precipitation on the north and east sides of the islands, creating tropical climates, while the south and west sides remain hot and dry with desertlike conditions. Generally speaking, you are guaranteed sun and warm temperatures on the west and south shores no matter what time of year. Higher "Upcountry" elevations typically have cooler, and often misty conditions.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Maui:

January 65-80°F (18 to 27°C); February 65-80°F (18-27°C); March 69-81°F (21-27°C); April 69-83°F (21-28°C); May 70-85°F (21-29°C); June 72-86°F (22-30°C); July 73-87°F (23-31°C); August 74-88°F (23-31°C); September 73-88°F (23-31°C); October 72-87°F (22-31°C); November 69-84°F (21-29°C); December 67-81°F (19-27°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

In addition, Hawai'i celebrates Prince Kuhio Day (Mar. 26), King Kamehameha Day (June 11), and Admission Day (3rd Fri. in Aug.). State, city, and county offices as well as many local companies are closed for business.

Renting a car is definitely recommended for those who plan to move beyond their hotel beach chair. Public transportation is extremely limited, and you may want a car if you plan to explore or if you have time constraints.

Remember that Hawai'i residents refer to places as being either mauka (toward the mountains) or makai (toward the ocean) from one another. Other directions depend on your location: in Honolulu, for example, people say to "go Diamond Head," which means toward that famous landmark, or to "go 'ewa," meaning in the opposite direction.

Hawai'i's natural beauty, breathtaking coastal routes, and year-round fair weather make it attractive to explore by bike. However, on many roads, bicycle lanes are limited or nonexistent, and cyclists must contend with heavy traffic on the more populated islands; biking on Maui may require some skillful maneuvering. You can rent bikes for some solo cruising, join local cycling clubs for their weekly rides, or hit the road with outfitters for tours that go beyond the well-traveled paths.

Bike maps are available from the Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Maui (PHONE:808/984-8100).

West Maui Cycles (PHONE:808/661-9005) rents bicycles.

Maui has a limited bus system, run by a private company, Akina Bus Service/Holo Ka'a Public Transit System (PHONE:808/879-2828; www.akinatours.com). Air-conditioned buses transport visitors around the West Maui and South Maui areas only. Inexpensive one-way, round-trip, and all-day passes are available. The Holo Ka'a Public Transit System has routes in South, West, and Central Maui.

Maui has some 120 mi of coastline, not all of which is accessible. Less than one-quarter of its land mass is inhabited. To see the island, your best bet is a car.

Regardless of today's fluctuating gas prices, you can pretty much count on having to pay more at the pump for gasoline in the Islands than on the U.S. mainland.

Car Rentals

During peak seasons -- summer, and Christmas through Easter -- be sure to reserve your car well ahead of time if you haven't booked a room-car package with your hotel. Rates begin at $35 a day -- before taxes, insurance, and extras -- for a compact car from one of the major companies. You can get a less-expensive deal from one of the locally owned budget companies. There is a $3 daily road tax on all rental cars in Hawai'i.

On Maui

Budget, Dollar, and National have courtesy phones at the Kapalua-West Maui Airport; Hertz and Alamo are nearby. All of the above, plus Avis, have desks at or near Maui's major airport in Kahului. Roberts Tours offers car rentals through package tours. Quite a few locally owned companies rent cars on Maui, including Aloha Rent-A-Car, which will pick you up at Kahului Airport or leave a vehicle for you if your flight comes in after-hours.

Alamo (PHONE:800/327-9633; www.alamo.com).

Aloha Rent-A-Car (PHONE:808/877-4477 or 877/452-5642). Avis (PHONE:800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-7000; 800/268-8900 in Canada; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:808/248-8237 or 800/800-4000; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3011; 800/263-0600 in Canada; www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE:800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com).

Rent-A-Jeep (PHONE:808/877-6626).

Roberts Tours (PHONE:808/523-9323).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE:800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE:800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE:800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE:800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE:800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National (PHONE:800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom; www.nationalcar.com).

Thrifty (PHONE:800/367-2277; www.thrifty.com).

Requirements

In Hawai'i you must be 21 years of age to rent a car and you must have a valid driver's license and a major credit card. Your unexpired mainland driver's license is valid for rental for up to 90 days. Those under 25 will pay a daily surcharge.

When picking up a rental car, non-U.S. residents need a reservation voucher for any prepaid reservations that were made in the traveler's home country, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver.

Road Conditions

Most of the roads on the island have two lanes. If you're going to attempt the partially paved, patched, and bumpy road between Hana and 'Ulupalakua, you'll be better off with a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but be forewarned: rental-car companies prohibit travel on roads they've determined might damage the car, so if you break down, you're on your own for repairs. There are two other difficult roads on Maui: one is Route 36, or Hana Highway, which runs 56 mi between Kahului and Hana and includes more twists and turns than you can count. The other is an 8-mi scenic stretch of one-lane highway between Kapalua and Wailuku on the north side of the West Maui Mountains.

Traffic on Maui can be very bad branching out from Kahului to and from Paia, Kihei, and Lahaina. Drive here during peak hours and you'll know why local residents are calling for restrictions on development. Parking along many streets is curtailed during these times, and towing is strictly practiced. Read curbside parking signs before leaving your vehicle, even at a meter.

For emergency road service, there is a Honolulu-based AAA (PHONE:800/222-4357). A dispatcher will send a tow truck, but you will need to tell the driver where to take your car. Don't forget to carry your membership card with you.

Rules of the Road

Be sure to buckle up. Hawai'i has a strictly enforced seat-belt law for front-seat passengers. Children under 40 pounds must be in a car seat, available from your car-rental agency. Children 18 and under, riding in the backseat, are also required by state law to use seat belts. The highway speed limit is usually 55 mph. In-town traffic moves from 25 to 40 mph. Jaywalking is very common, so be particularly watchful for pedestrians, especially in congested areas such as Waikiki. Unauthorized use of a parking space reserved for persons with disabilities can net you a $150 fine.

Arthur's Limousine Service (PHONE:808/871-5555 or 800/345-4667) offers a chauffeured superstretch Lincoln complete with bar and two TVs for $88 per hour. Arthur's fleet also includes less grandiose Lincoln Town Cars for $65 per hour with a two-hour minimum.

If you want to stretch out with a company on the South Shore, call Wailea Limousine Service (PHONE:808/875-4114; 808/661-4114 in Lahaina). Despite the name, this company also provides limousines to the Lahaina area.

You can rent mopeds on the West Side at Wheels R Us (741 Waine'e St., Lahaina, PHONE:808/667-7751) for $26 a day.

On the South Shore, try Wheels USA (2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, PHONE:808/875-1221) at Rainbow Mall. Rates are $16.95 a day.

Expect to pay a hefty deposit, up to $300, if you don't use a credit card. Be especially careful navigating roads where there are no designated bicycle lanes. Note that helmets are optional on Maui, but eye protection is not.

If you're staying in the right hotel or condo, there are a few shuttles that can get you around the area.

Akina Tours (PHONE:808/870-2828; www.akinatours.com) double-decker West Maui Shopping Express ferries passengers to and from Ka'anapali, Kapalua, Honokowai, and Lahaina from 8 AM to 10 PM. The fare is $1 per person each way, and schedules are available at most hotels.

The free Ka'anapali Trolley Shuttle runs within the resort between 9 AM and 11 PM and stops automatically at all hotels and at condos when requested. All Ka'anapali hotels have copies of schedules, or you can call the Ka'anapali Operation Association (PHONE:808/661-7370).

The Wailea Shuttle and the Kapalua Shuttle run within their respective resorts and are free. Schedules are available throughout each resort.

For short hops between hotels and restaurants, taxis can be a convenient way to go, but you'll have to call ahead. Even busy West Maui doesn't have curbside taxi service. Long distances between towns spike the prices; you'd be smart to use taxis just for the areas in which they're located.

Ali'i Cab (PHONE:808/661-3688) covers West Maui.

Kihei Taxi (PHONE:808/879-3000) serves Central Maui.

To really arrive in style, you might consider Classy Taxi (PHONE:808/665-0003). The company offers limos, convertibles, and a 1929 Model A Ford Phaeton for a regular cab's fare.