The gateway to Hong Kong is the Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok. Like its predecessor, however (which was known universally as Kai Tak), HKIA is never called by its official name; it's universally referred to as Chek Lap Kok (HKG) (PHONE: 852/2181-0000).

The nearby Macau International Airport (MFM) (PHONE: 853/785-448) gives you additional flight options; from here you can simply connect with sea transport for the one-hour journey to Hong Kong.

Flying time to Hong Kong is between 17 and 20 hours from New York or Chicago (via Vancouver or Honolulu), 13 hours direct from Los Angeles or 12¼ hours from San Francisco. Macau is a 20-minute flight from Hong Kong.

Carriers

To Hong Kong

Asiana (PHONE: 800/227-4262).

Canadian (PHONE: 800/426-7000).

Cathay Pacific Airways (PHONE: 800/233-2742 in the U.S.; 800/268-6868 in Canada).

China Airlines (PHONE: 800/227-5118).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856).

Korean Air (PHONE: 800/438-5000).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/447-4747).

Qantas (PHONE: 800/227-4500).

Singapore Airlines (PHONE: 800/742-3333).

United Airlines (PHONE: 800/241-6522).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 800/862-8621).

To Macau

Asiana (PHONE: 800/227-4262).

Korean Air (PHONE: 800/438-5000).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/447-4747).

From the U.K.

Cathay Pacific Airways (PHONE: 020/7747-8888 /).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 01293/747747).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222111).

Transfers from Chek Lap Kok

By Bus

The Airport Express runs a free shuttle bus between major hotels and its Hong Kong or Kowloon stations. To board, you must show your ticket, boarding pass, or Airport Express ticket.

Airbus has eight routes covering just about every hotel and hostel in Hong Kong, Kowloon, and the New Territories. Prices range from HK$20 to HK$45 for the one-hour trip. Information: PHONE: 2745-4466.

A 24-hour Airport Shuttle bus departs major hotels every 30 minutes and costs HK$120. Reservations: PHONE: 2377-0733.

A number of regular public buses serve the airport; though cheaper (HK$23 and under), these take longer than express options. For more information:

Cityflyer (PHONE: 2873-0818).

Kowloon Motor Bus (PHONE: 2745-4466).

Long Wing Bus Company (PHONE: 2786-6036).

By Taxi

Taxis from the airport cost up to HK$400 for Hong Kong Island destinations and up to HK$320 for Kowloon destinations, plus HK$5 per piece of luggage.

DCH Limo Service (PHONE: 2262-1888, FAX: 2753-6768) is located at Kiosk 4 in the Arrival Hall. Depending on the zone and the type of car, limo rides from the airport range from HK$450 to HK$600. A pick-up service is available at the same rates, as is a car service at HK$300-HK$360 per hour, minimum two hours.

By Train

The high-speed, high-frequency Airport Express Railway whisks passengers between the airport and Kowloon in 19 minutes via the spectacular Tsing Ma Bridge, and to and from Hong Kong Island (Central) in 23 minutes. This is the most convenient and economical way to get to and from the airport. There is plenty of luggage space, leg room, and comfortable seating with television screens on the backs of the passenger seats showing tourist information and the latest news. Hot Line: PHONE: 2881-8888.

A noteworthy feature of this train is in-town check-in, whereby you check your luggage, get your boarding pass, and pay departure tax while still on Hong Kong Island. To do this, you must purchase an Airport Express ticket and get to the train station three hours before your flight. Some people check in early in the day -- the office is open 6 AM-1 AM -- and board the train of their choice later on. The Airport Express station is connected to the MTR's Central station (albeit via a long, underground walkway with no luggage carts). One-way fare to or from Central is HK$70; from Kowloon, HK$60. Round-trip tickets valid for one month cost HK$120 for both destinations.

The main station is at Hung Hom, Kowloon.

The Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) has 13 commuter stops on its 34-km (22-mi) journey from the Chinese border to Kowloon. Fares range from HK$7.50 to HK$40.

The KCR meets the MTR (Mass Tranist Railway) at the Kowloon Tong (tel. 2602-7799) station. In the New Territories, the Light Rail Transit connects Tuen Mun and Yuen Long (tel. 2468-7788).

The electronic Octopus Card (HK$100) is accepted on the MTR, Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR), Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB), and Citybus. You can buy the card at ticket offices and HKTA outlets; you place a refundable deposit of HK$50 on it, then reload it with HK$50 or HK$100 increments at Add Value machines.

For more information contact HKTA (The Center, 99 Queen's Rd. Central, Central; Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon, tel. 2508-1234).

Nearly all businesses, even tourist-related ones, will shut down for major holidays such as Chinese Lunar New Year, Christmas, and New Year's.

Banks & Stores

Banks are open weekdays 9-4:30 and Saturday 9-12:30. Cash machines are plentiful. Office hours are more or less the same as in the West -- 9 to 5 or 6. Some offices are open 9-noon on Saturday. Lunch hour is from 1 to 2 pm; don't be surprised if the office closes during lunch.

Stores usually open around 10 AM and stay open until 9 or 9:30 PM, especially in tourist and residential areas. Here's an estimate of store hours by neighborhood: Central, 10-6; Causeway Bay and Wanchai, 10-9:30; Tsim Sha Tsui East, 10-7:30; Tsim Sha Tsui, Yau Ma Tei, and Mong Kok, 10-9.

Museums & Sights

Museums and sights are usually open six days a week from 9 to 5. Each site picks a different day, usually a Monday or Tuesday, for its day off. Call the destination before visiting.

Arriving in Hong Kong

Except for the usual prohibitions against drugs, explosives, firearms, and ammunition, and modest limits on alcohol, tobacco products, and perfume, you can bring anything you want into Hong Kong, including an unlimited amount of money.

Nonresident visitors may bring in, duty-free, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco, and 1 liter of alcohol.

The electrical current in Hong Kong is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); in Macau it's also 220 volts, 50 cycles. Some outlets in Hong Kong take plugs with three round prongs, while others use plugs with two square prongs. There is no standard plug size in Macau; check with your hotel regarding its setup.

To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and adapter. If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets marked "FOR SHAVERS ONLY," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter.

Australian Consulate (Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Rd., 24th floor, Wanchai, PHONE: 2827-8881, FAX: 2585-4459).

British Trade Commission (Visa Section, 1 Supreme Court Rd., 3rd floor, Hong Kong Island, PHONE: 2901-3111).

Canadian Consulate (Tower 1, Exchange Sq., 8 Connaught Pl., 11th-14th floors, Hong Kong Island, PHONE: 2810-4321, FAX: 2810-8736).

New Zealand Consulate General (Central Plaza, Central, Hong Kong, PHONE: 2525-5044).

U.S. Consulate (26 Garden Rd., Hong Kong Island, PHONE: 2523-9011, FAX: 2845-1598).

Locals and police are usually quite helpful in an emergency situation. Most police officers speak some English or will contact someone who does.

Police, fire, and ambulance (PHONE: 999).

Hong Kong Police and Taxi Complaint Hotline (PHONE: 2527-7177).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Prince of Wales Hospital (30-32 Ngan Shing St., Shatin, New Territories, PHONE: 2632-2211).

Princess Margaret Hospital (2-10 Princess Margaret Hospital Rd., Laichikok, Kowloon, PHONE: 2990-1111).

Queen Elizabeth Hospital (30 Gascoigne Rd., Kowloon, PHONE: 2958-8888).

Queen Mary Hospital (102 Pok Fu Lam Rd., Hong Kong, PHONE: 2855-3111).

Tang Shiu Kin Hospital (282 Queen's Rd. East, Hong Kong, PHONE: 2291-2000).

Pharmacies

There are no 24-hour pharmacies, however both of the following have pharmacy counters and numerous locations throughout the city. They are usually open until 9 PM.

Watson's (PHONE: 2915-9065).

Fanda Perfume Co., Ltd. (PHONE: 2526-6623).

Silverware is common in Hong Kong, but it is a respectful gesture to try your hand at chopsticks. Dining is a communal event. Everyone orders at least one dish, which are then placed in the center of the table and shared. Your meal will usually include rice or soup. It is considered proper to hold the bowl close to your lips and shovel the rice or soup into your mouth.

Smoking is common in Hong Kong, yet you should know that in July 1998 smoking was officially banned in all indoor public areas, including malls, banks, department stores, and supermarkets.

Hong Kong is extremely crowded; pushing, shoving, and nudging are commonplace. As difficult as this may be to accept, it's not considered rude -- it's unavoidable. Becoming angry or taking offense at an inadvertant push is considered rude.

However, while a shove on the streets may be common, it is not typical of strangers to be excessively touchy-feely with one another. A gregarious hug and boisterous hello will be off-putting to Hong Kongers who don't know you. When you are first meeting local people, try to be low-key and subdued, even if it's not in your nature.

The major health risk for travelers overseas is traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. Watch what you eat: stay away from ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products. Note, too, that eating raw shellfish has been associated with recent hepatitis outbreaks in Hong Kong. Drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for at least 20 minutes, even when you're brushing your teeth. Expect to pay HK$7 to HK$20 for a liter bottle of distilled water.

Hong Kong's official languages are English and Chinese. The most commonly spoken Chinese dialect is Cantonese, but Mandarin -- the official language of China, known in Hong Kong as Putonghua -- is gaining in popularity. Macau's official languages are Portuguese and Chinese, but many people speak some English. Here, too, Mandarin is growing in popularity.

In hotels, major restaurants, stores, and tourist centers, almost everyone speaks English. This is not the case, however, with taxi drivers, bus drivers, and workers in small shops, cafés, and market stalls.

Hong Kong has an excellent reputation for its postal system. Airmail letters to any place in the world should take 3 to 8 days. Post offices are open 8 AM to 6 PM Monday through Saturday.

Kowloon Central Post Office (10 Middle Rd., Tsim Tsa Shui).

the General Post Office (2 Connaught Rd., Central).

Overnight Services

Overnight delivery services are available throughout the city. You will find drop-off boxes or offices in most subway stations, malls, and hotels. For the office nearest you, call the company.

DHL (PHONE: 2765-8111).

Federal Express (PHONE: 2730-3333).

United Parcel Service (PHONE: 2735-3535).

Postal Rates

Letters sent from Hong Kong are thought of as going to one of two zones. Zone 1 includes China, Japan, Taiwan, South Korea, South-East Asia, Indonesia, and Asia. Zone 2 is everywhere else. International airmail costs HK$2.10 for a letter or postcard weighing under 10 grams mailed to a Zone 1 address, and HK$2.60 for a letter sent to a Zone 2 address. For each additional 10 grams, you will be charged HK$1.10 for Zone 1 and HK$1.20 for Zone 2.

Receiving Mail

The General Post Office and Kowloon Central Post Office have poste restante counters.

Travelers with American Express cards or traveler's checks can receive mail at the American Express office (5 Queen's Rd., Central, PHONE: 2811-6888). Have mail addressed c/o Client Mail Service at this address.

ATMs

Reliable and safe, ATMs are widely available throughout Hong Kong. If your card was issued from a bank in an English-speaking country, the instructions on the ATM machine will appear in English.

Currency

Units of currency are the Hong Kong dollar ($) and the cent. Bills come in denominations of 1,000, 500, 100, 50, 20, and 10 dollars. Coins are 10, 5, 2, and 1 dollar and 50, 20, and 10 cents. The image of Queen Elizabeth II will not appear on new coins, but the old ones are still valid.

Exchanging Money

There are no currency restrictions in Hong Kong. You can exchange currency at the airport, in hotels, in banks, and through private money changers scattered through the tourist areas. For the most favorable rates, change money at banks.

If you want to change money at a bank after hours, note that, while ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, ATM rates are still excellent because they're based on wholesale rates offered only by the major banks.

Taxes

Hong Kong levies a 10% service charge and a 3% government tax on hotel rooms.

Tipping

Hotels and major restaurants add a 10% service charge. In the more traditional Chinese restaurants, a waiter will bring small snacks at the beginning of the meal and charge them to you even if you did not order them; this takes the place of a service charge. It is customary to leave an additional 10% tip in all restaurants, and in taxis and beauty salons.

Entering Hong Kong

Citizens of the U.K. need only a valid passport to enter Hong Kong for stays of up to 6 months. Australian, Canadian, New Zealand, and U.S. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Hong Kong for stays up to 3 months. It is best to have at least six months' validity on your passport before traveling to Asia.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410; www.ukpa.gov.uk/ukpass.htm) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Hong Kong is a relatively safe city day or night. The Hong Kong Police who served under the British government continue to maintain law and order. Avoid carrying large amounts of cash or valuables. Pickpockets are an increasing problem in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong phone numbers are comprised of eight digits. The country code is 852. When dialing a Hong Kong number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code.

The local telephone system is efficient and telephone owners pay a flat monthly fee, not a per-call tariff; international calls are inexpensive relative to those in the United States. You can expect a clear-sounding connection. Directory assistance is helpful.

Directory & Operator Information

Dial 1081 for directory assistance from English-speaking operators. If a number is constantly busy and you think it might be out of order, call 109 and the operator will check the line.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

Local Calls

Given that your hotel will likely charge you for a local call, you might consider simply walking out of your hotel, stopping at the nearest shop and asking the shopkeeper if you can use the phone. Most locals will not charge you to you use their phone for a local call.

Long-Distance Calls

You can dial direct from many hotel and business centers, but always with a hefty surcharge. Dial 013 for international inquiries and for assistance with direct dialing. Dial 10010 for operator-assisted calls to most countries, including the United States, Canada, and the U.K. Dial 10011 for credit-card, collect, and international conference calls.

You can also make long-distance calls from Hong Kong Telecom International (Shop 116, Prince's Building, Des Voeux Rd., Central, PHONE: 2810-0660, and TST Hermes House, Kowloon, PHONE: 2888-7184 or 2888-7185). Here you dial direct from specially marked silver-colored phone booths that take phone cards (available from Hong Kong Telephone Company's retail shops and 7-Eleven convenience stores throughout the island). The cards have values of HK$25, HK$50, and HK$100, and multilingual instructions for their use are posted in the phone booths.

Public Phones

To make a local call from a pay phone, use a HK$1 coin or, at some phones, a credit card. Pay phones are not hard to find, but locals generally pop into a store and ask to use the phone there, as local calls are free on residence and business lines. Many small stores keep their telephone on the counter facing the street.

Watch for multimedia Powerphones, whose touch screens allow you to check E-mail and send faxes as well as phone home.

For general Hong Kong and Macau information before you go, contact the Hong Kong Tourist Association (HKTA) and Macau Government Tourist Office. When you arrive, stop by an HKTA information center in Hong Kong.

Tourist Offices

In Hong Kong

HKTA (Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon).

HKTA (The Center, 99 Queen's Rd. Central, Central, Hong Kong Island.

HKTA (Hong Kong International Airport).

For round-the-clock phone assistance, call the multilingual Visitor Hot Line (PHONE: 2508-1234). For a printout of specific details, contact the 24-hour fax information service (FAX: 900/6077-1128).

In the U.S.

HKTA (590 5th Ave., Suite 590, New York, NY 10036, PHONE: 212/869-5008,FAX: 212/730-2605).

HKTA (610 Enterprise Dr., Suite 200, Oak Brook, IL 60521, PHONE: 630/575-2828, FAX: 630/575-2829).

HKTA (10940 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1220, Los Angeles, CA 90024, PHONE: 310/208-4582, FAX: 310/208-1869).

Macau Government Tourist Office (Box 350, Kenilworth, IL 60043, PHONE: 847/251-6421 or 800/331-7150,FAX: 847/256-5601).

In Canada

HKTA (9 Temperance St., 3rd floor, Toronto, Ontario M5H 1Y6, PHONE: 416/366-2389, FAX: 416/366-1098).

In the U.K.

HKTA (6 Grafton St., London W1X 3LB, PHONE: 0711/530-7100, FAX: 020/7533-7111 /).

Macau Government Tourist Office (1 Battersea Church Rd., London SW11 3LY, PHONE: 020/7771-7006 /, FAX: 020/7771-7059 /).

In Australia

HKTA (Level 4, Hong Kong House, 80 Druitt St., Sydney NSW200, PHONE: 612/928-3083, FAX: 612/929-3383).

Hong Kong's high season, October through late December, is popular for a reason: the weather is pleasant, with sunny days and cool, comfortable nights. January, February, and sometimes early March are cold and dank, with long periods of overcast skies and rain. March and April can be either cold and miserable or sunny and beautiful. By May the temperature is consistently warm and comfortable.

June through September is typhoon season, when the weather is hot, sticky, and very rainy. Typhoons (called hurricanes in the Atlantic) must be treated with respect, and Hong Kong is prepared for these blustery assaults; if a storm is approaching, the airwaves will crackle with information, and your hotel and various public institutions will post the appropriate signals. When a No. 8 signal is posted, Hong Kong and Macau close down completely. Head immediately for your hotel and stay put. This is serious business -- bamboo scaffolding can come hurtling through the streets like spears, ships can be sunk in the harbor, and large areas of the territory are often flooded.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Hong Kong:

January 56-64°F (13-18°C); February 55-53°F (13-17°C); March 60-67°F (16-19°C); April 67-75°F (19-25°C); May 74-82°F (23-28°C); June 78-85°F (26-29°C); July 78-87°F (26-31°C); August 78-87°F (26-31°C); September 77-85°F (25-29°C); October 73-81°F (23-27°C); November 65-74°F (18-23°C); December 59-68°F (15-20°C).

Holidays

Major holidays in Hong Kong include New Year's (the first weekday in January), Chinese New Year, Easter (March or April), Labour Day (May 1), National Day (Oct. 1), and Christmas and Boxing Day (Dec. 25 and 26). There are also numerous Chinese holidays throughout the year.

The century-old Star Ferry is a Hong Kong landmark. Double-bowed, green-and-white vessels connect Hong Kong Island with Kowloon in just eight minutes; the ride costs HK$2.20 upper deck, HK$1.70 lower deck. Ferries also run to and between Wanchai and Tsim Sha Tsui; both rides cost HK$5.

Two companies, Hong Kong & Yau Ma Tei Ferry Company and Discovery Bay Transportation Services, run various ferries from Central to the outlying islands of Lantau, Cheung Chau, Lamma, and Ping Chau.

(Note: The high-speed ferries to Discovery Bay, which run 24 hours a day, are located on the Star Ferry Concourse.) Printed schedules are obtainable at the HKTA Information and Gift Centres at two locations: the Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon, and The Center, 99 Queen's Road Central, Central. Return fares vary from HK$15 to HK$50.

Star Ferry (PHONE: 2366-2576 or 2845-2324).

Hong Kong & Yau Ma Tei Ferry Company (PHONE: 2525-1108).

Discovery Bay (PHONE: 2987-7351).

Hong Kong Tourist Association (HKTA) Visitor Hot Line (PHONE: 2508-1234).

HKTA Visitor Information and Gift Centres (The Center, 99 Queen's Road Central, Central; Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon).

Double-decker buses run from 6 AM to midnight, and cover most parts of Hong Kong. Bus drivers usually don't speak English, so you may have to ask other passengers for help if you don't know exactly where you want to disembark.

When determining bus direction, keep the following in mind: buses ending with the letter L will eventually connect to the Kowloon-Canton Railway; buses ending with the letter M connect to an MTR station; and buses ending with the letter X are express buses.

As in other big cities, buses can be quite busy during rush hours, public holidays, and weekends, so it's best to use them during nonpeak times.

Maxicabs and minibuses both seat 16 people. Maxicabs are cream-colored, with green roofs, a route number and fixed price prominently displayed. Minibuses are also cream but have red roofs. Minibuses display both fares and destinations (albeit in very small English letters), though these can change based on demand. Maxicabs and minibuses are both quick, though they cost slightly more than buses. Both can be waved down at any point.

Call the HKTA Visitor Hot Line (PHONE: 2508-1234) or, for double-decker-bus route maps, stop in at the HKTA Information and Gift Centres (The Center, 99 Queen's Road Central, Central; Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon).

Fares

Double-decker bus fares range from HK$1.20 to HK$45; the fare is paid upon entering the bus. Maxicab fares range from HK$1.50 to HK$18. Similarly, you pay as you board. Minibus fares range from HK$2 to HK$20, but you pay as you exit. For all three types of transportation you must pay exact change.

Long-staying visitors should consider purchasing an "Octopus" stored-value card, which you can use on the city bus as well as the Mass Transit Railway, Kowloon-Canton Railway, Light Rail, and Airport Express.

Car Rentals

Avoid renting a car in Hong Kong. Driving conditions, traffic jams, and parking are bound to make life difficult. Public transportation is excellent here, and taxis are inexpensive. If you do decide to rent a car, you may want to hire a driver as well; this can be arranged through your hotel. The fee is HK$800-HK$1,200 for the first four hours (depending on car model) and HK$200-HK$300 for each subsequent hour.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Local Agencies

Ace Hire Car (16 Min Fat St., Happy Valley, PHONE: 2893-0541; turn left at Hong Kong Bank).

Fung Hing Hire Co. (58 German St., ground floor, Happy Valley, PHONE: 2572-0333) rents chauffeured cars only.

Requirements

Your own driver's license is valid in Hong Kong, but an International Driver's Permit is always a good idea; it's available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the U.K., from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These permits are universally recognized, so having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

The four-line Mass Transit Railway (MTR) links Hong Kong Island to Kowloon (the shopping area Tsim Sha Tsui) and parts of the New Territories. Trains run frequently and are safe and easy to use. Station entrances are marked with a simple line symbol resembling a man with arms and legs outstretched. You buy tickets from ticket machines; change is available at the stations' Hang Seng Bank counters. Fares range from HK$4 to HK$26.

The special Tourist Ticket (HK$25) can save you money. Another bulk-value possibility is the Stored Value Ticket, which also provides access to the above-ground Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR). Tickets are HK$70, HK$100, and HK$200.

Mass Transit Railway (MTR; PHONE: 2881-1888).

Taxis in Hong Kong and Kowloon are usually red. A taxi's roof sign lights up when the car is available. Fares in urban areas are HK$15 for the first 2 km (1 mi) and HK$1.20 for each additional 1/5 km (mi). There is a luggage surcharge of HK$5 per large piece, and surcharges of HK$20 for the Cross-Harbour Tunnel, HK$30 for the Eastern Harbour Tunnel, and HK$45 for the Western Harbour Tunnel. The Tsing Ma Bridge surcharge is HK$30. The Aberdeen, Lion Rock, and Junk Bay tunnels also carry small surcharges (HK$3-HK$8). Taxis cannot pick up passengers where there are double yellow lines. Note that it's hard to find a taxi around 4 PM.

Many taxi drivers do not speak English, so you may want to ask someone at your hotel to write out your destination in Chinese.

Outside the urban areas, taxis are green (blue on Lantau Island). Cabs in the New Territories cost less than urban taxis: HK$11.80 for the first 2 km (1 mi) and HK$1.10 for each additional 1/5 km (mi). Urban taxis may travel into rural zones, but rural taxis must not cross into urban zones. There are no interchange facilities for the two, so do not try to reach an urban area using a green taxi.

The Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) has 13 commuter stops on its 34-km (22-mi) journey through urban Kowloon (from Kowloon to Lo Wu) and the new cities of Shatin and Taipo on its way to the Chinese border. The main station is at Hung Hom, Kowloon, where you can catch express trains to China. Fares range from HK$7.50 to HK$40.

The KCR meets the MTR at the Kowloon Tong station (PHONE: 2602-7799).

In the New Territories, the Light Rail Transit connects Tuen Mun and Yuen Long (PHONE: 2468-7788).

Street Trams

Trams run along the north shore of Hong Kong Island from Kennedy Town (in the west) all the way through Central, Wanchai, Causeway Bay, North Point, and Quarry Bay, ending in the former fishing village of Shaukiwan. A branch line turns off in Wanchai toward Happy Valley, where horse races are held in season. Destinations are marked on the front of each tram; the fare is HK$2. Avoid trams at rush hours, which are generally 7:30-9 AM and 5-7 PM each weekday.

Peak Tram

Dating from 1888, this railway rises from ground level to Victoria Peak (1,305 ft), offering a panoramic view of Hong Kong. Both residents and tourists use it; most passengers board at the lower terminus between Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive. (The tram has five stations.) The fare is HK$18 one-way, HK$28 round-trip, and the tram runs every 10-15 minutes daily from 7 AM to midnight. A free shuttle bus runs between the lower terminus and the Star Ferry.

Because rickshaws are a tourist attraction rather than a common mode of transportation, prices run high. Rates are supposed to be around HK$50 for a five-minute ride, but rickshaw operators are merciless. A posed snapshot can cost almost as much as a ride. When you hire a rickshaw or take an operator's picture, bargain aggressively and agree on the price in advance.