Key West International Airport (EYW) (S. Roosevelt Blvd., Key West, PHONE: 305/296-5439) is on the southeast corner of the island.

Many Key West visitors fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) (PHONE: 305/876-7000, www.miami-airport.com), 7 miles west of downtown Miami, rent a car, and drive south to Key West.

Flying times vary depending on whether you're flying into Miami or Key West itself, but typical times are 3 hours from New York, 4 hours from Chicago, 2¾ hours from Dallas, 4½-5½ hours from Los Angeles, and 8-8½ hours from London.

Carriers

To Florida

Air Canada (PHONE: 888/247-2262, www.aircanada.com).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300, www.aa.com).

Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280, www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212, www.delta.com).

Midway (PHONE: 800/446-4392, www.midwayair.com).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525, www.nwa.com).

Spirit (PHONE: 800/772-7117, www.spiritair.com).

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522, www.ual.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322, www.usair.com).

To Key West

Service between Key West International Airport and Miami, Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood, Naples, Orlando, or Tampa is provided by:

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300).

Cape Air (PHONE: 800/352-0714; www.flycapeair.com).

Comair (PHONE: 800/354-9822; www.comair.com).

Gulfstream/Continental (PHONE: 800/525-0280; www.gulfstreamair.com).

From the U.K.

American (PHONE: 0345/789-789).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111).

Continental (PHONE: 0800/776-464) via Newark.

Delta (PHONE: 0800/414-767).

Northwest (PHONE: 0990/561-000) via Detroit or Minneapolis.

United (PHONE: 0800/888-555).

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 01293/747-747).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Car

To get to Duval Street from Key West's airport, take South Roosevelt Boulevard, which turns into North Roosevelt Boulevard, which turns into Truman Avenue and continues westward to Duval Street.

From Miami International Airport, follow signs to Coral Gables and Key West, which put you on Lejeune Road, and then Route 836 west. Take the Homestead Extension of Florida's Turnpike south, which ends at Florida City and connects to U.S. 1. Tolls from the airport cost approximately $1.50.

The alternative from Florida City is Card Sound Road (Route 905A), which has a bridge toll of $1. Continue to the only stop sign and turn right on Route 905, which rejoins U.S. 1 about 30 miles south of Florida City.

By Shuttle Van

Super Shuttle (PHONE: 305/871-2000) charges $80 per passenger ($190 for entire van) for trips to the Upper Keys. To go farther into the Keys, you must book an entire van (up to 11 passengers), which costs $350, to Key West. Super Shuttle requests 24-hour advance notice for transportation back to the airport.

By Taxi

Serving the Keys from Ocean Reef to Key West, Luxury Limousine (PHONE: 305/664-0601, 305/367-2329, or 800/664-0124) has luxury sedans and limos that seat up to 8 passengers. The company will pick up from any airport in Florida.

Florida Keys Taxi Dispatch (PHONE: 305/296-1800) provides service between the airport and downtown. The fare for two or more people to New Town is $5 per person with a cap of $15; to Old Town the cost is $7 per person with a cap of $30. To other destinations, the meter rates start at $2.25. The cost is 50¢ for each 1/5 mi, and 50¢ for every 50 seconds of waiting time.

Greyhound Lines (PHONE: 800/410-5397 or 800/231-2222). runs a special Keys shuttle three or four times a day (depending on the day of the week) between MIA (departing from Concourse E, lower level) and stops throughout the Keys. The fare is $31 one-way ($60 round-trip) to Key West.

Key West, the southernmost island in the Florida Keys, is 160 miles south of Miami. Take Route 836 west, and then head south on the Homestead Extension of Florida's Turnpike and U.S. 1. Watch your speed through Big Pine Key. Speed limits are strictly enforced to protect the area's deer population.

Key West Ferry (PHONE: 800/273-4496 www.keywestferry.com) has service to Key West from Fort Myers Beach on a 116-ft vessel. Rates -- $80 one-way, $129 round-trip -- include a continental breakfast. The trip takes a little over four hours. A current, legal photo ID is required for each passenger. Reservations are recommended.

Key West Shuttle (PHONE: 888/539-2628; www.keywestshuttle.com) operates a ferry between Key West and Marco Island and Fort Myers, on the mainland's southwest coast. The trip takes four to five hours each way, respectively. Tickets cost $70 one-way, $119 round-trip. Reservations are recommended.

Museums and Sights

Some museums in Key West are closed on Mondays but offer extended hours on another weekday and are usually open on weekends. Popular visitor attractions are usually open daily with the exception of Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (for inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, www.customs.gov, PHONE: 202/354-1000; for complaints, Customer Satisfaction Unit, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.5A, Washington, DC 20229; for registration of equipment, Office of Passenger Programs, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Room 5.4D, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0530).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036, PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001, PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/588-7800).

Ambulance (PHONE: 911).

Fire (PHONE: 911).

Police (PHONE: 911).

Keys Hotline (PHONE: 800/771-5397) provides information and emergency assistance in six languages.

Coast Guard Group Key West (PHONE: 305/295-9700) responds to local marine emergencies and reports of navigation hazards.

The Keys have no 24-hour pharmacies. Hospital pharmacists will help with emergencies after regular retail business hours.

Hospital Emergency Room

Lower Florida Keys Health System (MM 5, BS, 5900 College Rd., Stock Island, PHONE: 305/294-5531) has a 24-hour emergency room.

On Land

The Conch Tour Train (PHONE: 305/294-5161, www.conchtourtrain.com) is a 90-minute narrated tour of Key West that travels 14 miles through Old Town and around the island. The tour starts at Mallory Square and Roosevelt Boulevard (just north of the Quality Inn) every half hour between 9 and 4:30. The cost is $20.

In addition to publishing several good guides on Key West, the Historic Florida Keys Foundation (Old City Hall, 510 Greene St., PHONE: 305/292-6718) sponsors tours of the City Cemetery on Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 9:30.

Sharon Wells of Island City Strolls (PHONE: 305/294-8380) is the author of "The Walking and Biking Guide to Historic Key West," which contains 10 self-guided tours of the historic district. The booklet is available for free at guest houses, hotels, and Key West bookstores. Wells conducts walking tours herself. The cost is $25.

The Key West Nature Bike Tour (Truman Ave. and Simonton St., Key West, PHONE: 305/294-1882) explores the natural, noncommercial side of Key West at a leisurely pace, stopping on back streets and in backyards of private homes to sample native fruits and view indigenous plants and trees. The tours last from 90 to 120 minutes and cost $23 (including bike rental).

Old Town Trolley (6631 Maloney Ave., Key West, PHONE: 305/296-6688, www.historictours.com/keywest) operates 12 trackless trolley-style buses, departing from the Mallory Square and Roosevelt Boulevard depots every 30 minutes between 9:15 and 4:30 for 90-minute narrated tours of Key West. You may disembark at any of nine stops and reboard a later trolley. The cost is $20.

"Pelican Path" is a free walking guide to Key West published by the Old Island Restoration Foundation. The tour discusses the history and architecture of 43 structures along 25 blocks of 12 Old Town streets. You can pick up copies of "Pelican Path" at the Key West Chamber of Commerce (402 Wall St., PHONE: 305/294-2587).

On the Water

The operators of Adventure Charters & Tours (6810 Front St., Stock Island 33040, PHONE: 305/296-0362, www.keywestadventures.com) load kayaks onto the 42-ft catamaran Island Fantasea and head out to the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge for guided kayak nature tours with a maximum of 14 passengers. Half-day trips ($30) last 2½ hours and depart at 10 and 2. Full-day trips ($100) depart at 9:30 and include snorkeling, fishing, a grilled lunch, drinks, and a sunset.

Big Pine Kayak Adventures (PHONE: 305/872-2896, 305/395-0930, or 877/595-2925, www.keyskayaktours.com) takes visitors into remote areas of two national wildlife refuges in the Lower Keys to explore mangrove hammocks, islands, creeks, and sponge and grass flats on kayak nature tours, shallow-water skiff eco-tours, backcountry catamaran sailing cruises, and shallow-water fishing expeditions. Prices start at $49 per person for a half day.

Mosquito Coast Island Outfitters and Kayak Guides (310 Duval St., Key West, PHONE: 305/294-7178, www.mosquitocoast.net) conducts full-day guided sea-kayak natural-history tours around the mangrove islands just east of Key West. The $55-a-day charge covers transportation, bottled water, a snack, and supplies, including snorkeling gear.

On tours ($30) on the M/V Discovery (Land's End Marina, 251 Margaret St., Key West, PHONE: 305/293-0099, www.discoveryunderseatours.com), a glass-bottom boat, you will see coral and exotic fish and other marine life.

Victoria Impallomeni (5710 U.S. 1, Key West, PHONE: 305/294-9731 or 888/822-7366, www.captvictoria.com), a wilderness guide and authority on the ecology of Florida Bay, invites nature lovers (children are especially welcome) aboard the Imp II, a 24-ft Aquasport, for four-hour half-day ($400) and seven-hour full-day ($600) ecotours that frequently include encounters with wild dolphins. While island-hopping, you visit underwater gardens, natural shoreline, and mangrove habitats. Tours leave from Murray's Marina (MM 5, Stock Island).

In the Air

Island Aeroplane Tours (Key West Airport, 3469 S. Roosevelt Blvd., PHONE: 305/294-8687, www.islandaeroplanetours.com) flies up to two passengers in a 1941 Waco, an open-cockpit biplane. Tours range from a quick six- to eight-minute overview of Key West (about $50 for two) to a 50-minute look at the offshore reefs (about $275 for two).

Seaplanes of Key West (Key West Airport, 3471 S. Roosevelt Blvd., PHONE: 305/294-0709, www.seaplanesofkeywest.com) offers half-day trips to the Dry Tortugas, where you can explore Fort Jefferson, built in 1846, and snorkel on the beautiful protected reef. A cooler of drinks and snorkel equipment is included in the $179 per person fee.

If you are unaccustomed to strong subtropical sun, you run a risk of sunburn and heat prostration, even in winter. So hit the beach or play tennis, golf, or another outdoor sport before 10 or after 3. If you must be out at midday, limit strenuous exercise, drink plenty of liquids, and wear a hat. If you begin to feel faint, get out of the sun immediately and sip water slowly. Even on overcast days, ultraviolet rays shine through the haze, so use a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, and have children wear a waterproof SPF 30 or better.

While you're frolicking on the beach, steer clear of what look like blue bubbles on the sand. These are Portuguese man-of-wars, and their tentacles can cause an allergic reaction. Also be careful of other large jellyfish, some of which can sting.

If you walk across a grassy area on the way to the beach, you'll probably encounter sand spurs. They are quite tiny, light brown, and remarkably prickly. You'll feel them before you see them; if you get stuck with one, just pull it out.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business.

Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (under one ounce) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards cost 23 cents to mail. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard a 50-cent one. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

ATMs

Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) are ubiquitous in Florida. In addition to banks, you will find them at grocery store chains like Publix and Winn-Dixie, in shopping malls big and small, and, increasingly, at gas stations.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins are rarely seen in circulation; a "golden" dollar coin was introduced in 2000. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

The sales tax in Key West is 7.5%. An additional 3.5% bed tax is applied to lodging.

Tipping

Whether they carry bags, open doors, deliver food, or clean rooms, hospitality employees work to receive a portion of your travel budget. In deciding how much to give, base your tip on what the service is and how well it's performed.

In transit, tip an airport valet $1-$3 per bag, a taxi driver 15%-20% of the fare.

For hotel staff, recommended amounts are $1-$3 per bag for a bellhop, $1-$2 per night per guest for chambermaids, $5-$10 for special concierge service, $1-$3 for a doorman who hails a cab or parks a car, 15% of the greens fee for a caddy, 15%-20% of the bill for a massage, and 15% of a room service bill (bear in mind that sometimes 15%-18% is automatically added to room service bills, so don't add it twice).

In a restaurant, give 15%-20% of your bill before tax to the server, 5%-10% to the maître d', 15% to a bartender, and 15% of the wine bill for a wine steward who makes a special effort in selecting and serving wine.

Entering the United States

Visitor visas are not necessary for Canadian citizens, or for citizens of Australia and the United Kingdom who are staying fewer than 90 days. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.:

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 09068/200-290 recorded visa information; 09055/444-546 operator service; both with per-minute charges) for U.S. visa information.

U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 2JB) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope.

Contact the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, 14 Queen St., Belfast, Northern Ireland BT1 6EQ, PHONE: 028/9032-8239, www.usembassy.org.uk) if you live in Northern Ireland.

Contact the United States Consulate General (MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., 59th floor, Sydney, New South Wales 2000, PHONE: 02/9373-9200; 1902/941-641 fee-based visa-inquiry line, www.usis-australia.gov/index.html) if you live in Australia.

If you live in New Zealand:

Embassy of the United States (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington, PHONE: 04/462-6000 usembassy.org.nz).

U.S. Consulate General (Citibank Bldg., 3rd floor, 23 Customs St. E, Auckland, PHONE: 09/303-2724, usembassy.org.nz).

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.ukpa.gov.uk) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

Stepped-up policing of thieves who prey on tourists in rental cars has helped address what was a serious issue in the early '90s. Still, visitors should be especially wary when driving in strange neighborhoods and leaving the airport, especially in the Miami area. Don't assume that valuables are safe in your hotel room; use in-room safes or the hotel's safety deposit boxes. Try to use ATMs only during the day or in brightly lit, well-traveled locales.

Beach Safety

Before swimming, make sure there's no undertow. Rip currents, caused when the tide rushes out through a narrow break in the water, can overpower even the strongest swimmer. If you do get caught in one, resist the urge to swim straight back to shore -- you'll tire before you make it. Instead, stay calm. Swim parallel to the shore line until you are outside the current's pull, then work your way in to shore.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Key West is 305.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + area code + number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (35¢ for local calls), wait for a steady tone before dialing, and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Statewide

FLA/USA (PHONE: 850/488-5607; www.flausa.com).

Key West Area

Florida Keys & Key West Visitors Bureau (402 Wall St., Key West 33040, PHONE: 800/352-5397, www.fla-keys.com).

Key West Business Guild (gay) (728 Duval St., Box 1208, Key West 33041, PHONE: 305/294-4603 or 800/535-7797, www.gaykeywestfl.com).

Key West Chamber of Commerce (402 Wall St., Key West 33040, PHONE: 305/294-2587 or 800/527-8539, FAX: 305/294-7806).

Key West Gay and Lesbian Community Center (1075 Duval St, Key West 33040, PHONE: 305/292-3223, www.glcckeywest.org).

Monroe Council of the Arts (5100 College Rd., Box 717, Key West 33040, PHONE: 305/294-4406 Key West; 305/743-0079 Middle Keys; 305/852-1469 Upper Keys, www.keysarts.org).

Reef Relief Environmental Center & Store (201 William St., Key West 33041, PHONE: 305/294-3100).

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact ABC Florida (Box 35, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4TB, England, PHONE: 0891/600-555, 50p per minute; send £2 for vacation pack).

The United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London W1A 1EN, PHONE: 020/7495-4466) is another source of information.

High season in the Keys is from mid-December through March, and traffic on the Overseas Highway can be heavy. From November to the middle of December, crowds are thinner, the weather is superlative, and hotels and shops drastically reduce their prices.

Summer, which is hot and humid, is becoming a second high season, especially among families and Europeans.

Key West's annual Fantasy Fest is the last week in October; if you plan to attend this popular event, reserve at least six months in advance. Rooms are also scarce the first few weekends of lobster season, which starts in August.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Key West:

January 65-76°F (18-24°C); February 67-76°F (19-24°C); March 68-79°F (20-26°C); April 72-81°F (22-27°C); May 74-85°F (23-29°C); June 77-88°F (25-31°C); July 79-90°F (26-32°C); August 79-90°F (26-32°C); September 77-90°F (25-32°C); October 76-83°F (24-28°C); November 70-79°F (21-26°C); December 67-76°F (19-24°C).

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

Key West is a walker's paradise, especially the area around Duval Street and Mallory Square. You don't need a car on the island. Bikes and mopeds are available for rental. Otherwise, call a taxi.

Florida statutes require that bikers under 16 wear a helmet. Bicycle passengers under 4 years old must be in a sling or child seat. All bikes must have lamps or reflectors -- white in the front, and red in the back, visible from 500 ft -- between sunset and sunrise.

City of Key West Department of Transportation (PHONE: 305/292-8160) operates bus routes that cover the island from 6:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Stops have signs with the international symbol for bus. Schedules are available on buses and at hotels, visitor centers, and shops. The fare is 75¢ (exact change).

In Key West's Old Town, parking is scarce and costly ($1.50 per hour at Mallory Square).

The best Keys road map, published by the Homestead/Florida City Chamber of Commerce, can be obtained for $5.50 from the Tropical Everglades Visitor Center (160 U.S. 1, Florida City 33034, PHONE: 305/245-9180 or 800/388-9669).

Car Rentals

Two- and four-passenger open-air electric cars that travel about 25 mph are an environmentally friendly way to get around the island. You can rent them from Key West Cruisers (500 Truman Ave., at Duval St., PHONE: 305/294-4724 or 888/800-8802).

Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise Rent-A-Car, and Hertz have booths at Key West's airport. Tropical Rent-A-Car is based in the city. You will incur substantial drop-off charges if you rent a car in Key West and drop it off in Miami.

In Key West

Alamo (PHONE: 305/294-6675 or 800/327-9633).

Avis (Key West Airport, PHONE: 305/294-4846).

Budget (Key West Airport, PHONE: 305/294-8868).

Dollar (PHONE: 305/296-9921 or 800/800-4000).

Enterprise Rent-A-Car (PHONE: 800/325-8007).

Hertz (PHONE: 305/294-1039 or 800/654-3131).

Tropical Rent-A-Car (1300 Duval St., Key West, PHONE: 305/294-8136).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

In Florida you must be 21 to rent a car. Rates may be higher if you're under 25.

Rules of the Road

Speed limits are 55 mph on state highways, 30 mph within city limits and residential areas, and 55-70 mph on interstates and Florida's Turnpike. Be alert for signs announcing exceptions.

Florida law requires that all children age three or younger ride in a federally approved child safety seat when in any motor vehicle, regardless of the vehicle's registration state. Children four and five years of age must be restrained in either a child safety seat, booster seat, or safety belt. The driver is required to make sure that all passengers under the age of 16 are wearing a seatbelt. Florida's Alcohol/Controlled Substance DUI Law is one of the toughest in the United States. A blood alcohol level of.08 or higher can have serious repercussions even for the first-time offender.

Serving the Keys from Ocean Reef to Key West, Luxury Limousine (PHONE: 305/664-0601, 305/367-2329, or 800/664-0124) has luxury sedans and limos that seat up to 8 passengers. The company will makes pick-ups from any airport in Florida.

Florida Keys Taxi Dispatch (PHONE: 305/296-1800) operates around the clock in Key West. Metered rates start at $1.75, 45¢ for each 1/5 mi, and 45¢ for every 50 seconds of waiting time.