Reno-Tahoe International Airport(RNO) (U.S. 395, Exit 65B, Reno, NV, PHONE: 775/328-6400), 35 miles northeast of the closest point on the lake, is served by Alaska, American, America West, Continental, Delta, Northwest, Skywest, Southwest, United, and other airlines.

Lake Tahoe Airport (PHONE: 530/542-6180) on U.S. 50 is 3 miles south of the lake's shore. No commercial carriers operate scheduled service to this airport; for charters, contact Alpine Lake Aviation (PHONE: 775/588-4748).

Flying time is roughly 6 hours from New York, 4 hours from Chicago, and 1½ hours from Los Angeles. Travel from London takes about 10 hours, and from Sydney approximately 14.

Carriers

Alaska (PHONE: 800/426-0333). America West (PHONE: 800/235-9292). American (PHONE: 800/433-7300). Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856). Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212). Northwest/KLM (PHONE: 800/225-2525). Southwest (PHONE: 800/435-9792). United (PHONE: 800/241-6522).

From the U.K.

American (PHONE: 0345/789-789). British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111). Delta (PHONE: 0800/414-767). United (PHONE: 0800/888-555). Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 01293/747-747).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Tahoe Casino Express (PHONE: 775/785-2424 or 800/446-6128) has daily scheduled transportation from Reno-Tahoe International Airport in Reno to Stateline casinos from 6:15 AM to 12:30 AM, $17 one-way and $30 round-trip.

By Car

From Reno you can get to the north shore of the lake by heading west on Highway 431 (a total of 35 mi).

Greyhound (PHONE: 800/231-2222) stops in Sacramento, Truckee, and Reno, Nevada.

Lake Tahoe is 198 miles northeast of San Francisco, a drive of less than 4 hours when traffic and the weather cooperate. Try to avoid the heavy traffic leaving the San Francisco area for Tahoe on Friday afternoon and returning on Sunday afternoon. The major route is I-80, which cuts through the Sierra Nevada about 14 miles north of the lake. From there Highway 89 and Highway 267 reach the west and north shores, respectively. U.S. 50 is the more direct route to the south shore, taking about 2½ hours from Sacramento. From Reno you can get to the north shore by heading west on Highway 431 (a total of 35 miles). For the south shore, head south on U.S. 395 through Carson City, and then turn west on U.S. 50 (50 mile total).

In California, banks are typically open weekdays from 9 to 4 and are closed most holidays. Smaller shops usually operate from 10 to 6, with larger stores remaining open until 8 or later. Hours vary for museums and historical sites, and many are closed one or more days a week. It's a good idea to check before you visit a tourist site. Many gas stations are open 24 hours, especially on interstate highways. In rural areas many close early, so fill up before nightfall.

In Nevada, banks are generally open weekdays, 9-4.

Arriving in the United States

Non-U.S. residents ages 21 and older may import into the United States 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 2 kilograms of tobacco, 1 liter of alcohol, and gifts worth $100. Meat products, seeds, plants, and fruits are prohibited.

For additional information, contact the U.S. Customs Service (inquiries, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-6724; complaints, Office of Regulations and Rulings, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229; registration of equipment, Resource Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229, PHONE: 202/927-0540).

The U.S. electrical standard is 110 volts/60 cycles AC. Foreign visitors traveling with dual-voltage appliances will not need a converter, but they will need a plug adapter. The standard U.S. electrical outlet takes a plug of two flat pins set parallel to one another.

Ambulance (PHONE: 911). Police (PHONE: 911). Fire (PHONE: 911). California Highway Patrol (PHONE: 530/587-3510). Nevada Highway Patrol (PHONE: 775/687-5300).

Every address in the United States belongs to a specific zip-code district, and each zip code has five digits. Some addresses include a second sequence of four numbers following the first five numbers, but although this speeds mail delivery for large organizations, it is not necessary to use it. Each zip-code district has at least one post office, where you can buy stamps and aerograms, send parcels, or conduct other postal business. Occasionally you may find small stamp-dispensing machines in airports, train stations, bus terminals, large office buildings, hotel lobbies, drugstores, or grocery stores, but don't count on it. Most Americans go to the post office to buy their stamps, and the lines can be long.

Official mailboxes are either the stout, royal blue steel bins on city sidewalks or mail chutes on the walls of post offices or in large office buildings. A schedule posted on mailboxes and mail slots should indicate when the mail is picked up.

Sending Mail Home

First-class letters (under one ounce) sent within the United States cost 37 cents; postcards are 23 cents. A one-ounce letter to Canada or Mexico takes a 60-cent stamp and a postcard 50 cents. Letters sent airmail to all other overseas destinations cost 80 cents for one ounce or less (this rate category is now called airmail letter-post, and surface mail is now called economy letter-post); airmail postcards to other overseas destinations cost 70 cents. For 70 cents, you can also buy an aerogram -- a pre-stamped sheet of lightweight blue paper that folds into its own envelope.

Receiving Mail

If you wish to receive mail while traveling in the United States, have it sent c/o General Delivery at the city's main post office (be sure to use the right zip code). It will be held there for up to 30 days. You must pick it up in person, and bring identification with you. American Express offices in the United States do not hold mail.

ATMs

ATMs are widely available in Lake Tahoe; they're at every bank and at most convenience stores. In addition, all casinos have cash-advance machines, which take credit cards. You just indicate how large a cash advance you want, and when the transaction is approved, you pick up the cash at the casino cashier. But beware: you'll pay up to a 12% fee in addition to the usual cash-advance charges and interest rate for this convenience.

Currency

The basic unit of U.S. currency is the dollar, which is subdivided into 100 cents. Coins are the copper penny (1 cent) and four silver coins: the nickel (5 cents), the dime (10 cents), the quarter (25 cents), and the half-dollar (50 cents). Silver $1 coins are rarely seen in circulation; a "golden" dollar coin was introduced in 2000. Paper money comes in denominations of $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100. All these bills are the same size and green in color; they are distinguishable only by the dollar amount indicated on them and by pictures of various famous American people and monuments.

For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

In general, U.S. banks will not cash a personal check for you unless you have an account at that bank (it doesn't have to be at that branch). Only in major cities are large bank branches equipped to exchange foreign currencies. Therefore, it's best to rely on credit cards, cash machines, and traveler's checks to handle expenses while you're traveling.

Exchanging Money

In the United States, it is not as easy to find places to exchange currency as it is in European cities. In major international cities, such as New York and Los Angeles, currency may be exchanged at some bank branches, as well as at currency-exchange booths in airports and at foreign-currency offices such as American Express Travel Service and Thomas Cook (check local directories for addresses and phone numbers). The best strategy is to buy traveler's checks in U.S. dollars before you come to the United States; although the rates may not be as good abroad, the time saved by not having to search constantly for exchange facilities far outweighs any financial loss.

Money Orders, Funds Transfers

Any U.S. bank is equipped to accept transfers of funds from foreign banks. It helps if you can plan dates to pick up money at specific bank branches. Your home bank can supply you with a list of its correspondent banks in the United States.

If you have more time, and you have a U.S. address where you can receive mail, you can have someone send you a certified check, which you can cash at any bank, or a postal money order (for as much as $700, obtained for a fee of up to 85¢ at any U.S. post office and redeemable at any other post office). From overseas, you can have someone go to a bank to send you an international money order (also called a bank draft), which will cost a $15-$20 commission plus airmail postage. Always bring two valid pieces of identification, preferably with photos, to claim your money.

Taxes

Sales tax in California varies from about 5% to 8½% and applies to all purchases except for prepackaged food; restaurant food is taxed. Hotel tax ranges from 10% to 16%. Airlines include departure taxes in the price of the ticket.

Las Vegas and Reno-Tahoe international airports assess a $3 departure tax, or passenger facility charge. The Nevada hotel room tax is 10%, and sales tax varies from 7.75% to 8.25%.

Tipping

At restaurants, a 15% tip is standard for waiters; up to 20% may be expected at more expensive establishments. The same goes for taxi drivers, bartenders, and hairdressers. Coat-check operators usually expect $1; bellhops and porters should get 50 cents to $1 per bag; hotel maids in upscale hotels should get about $1 per day of your stay. On package tours, conductors and drivers usually get $10 per day from the group as a whole; check whether this has already been figured into your cost. For local sightseeing tours, you may individually tip the driver-guide $1 if he or she has been helpful or informative.

Entering the United States

Citizens of Australia, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom who plan to stay in the United States for fewer than 90 days do not need entry visas. A valid passport, a return-trip ticket, and proof of financial solvency are required; you'll be asked to fill out the Visa Waiver Form, I-94W, upon entry. Travelers who plan to stay more than 90 days can apply for the appropriate visa at the United States embassy or consulates in their home country. Canadian citizens need valid identification but neither a passport nor a visa to enter the United States.

At Home

If you live in the U.K.: U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (PHONE: 01891/200290; calls cost 49p per minute, 39p per minute cheap rate) for U.S. visa information. U.S. Embassy Visa Branch (5 Upper Grosvenor Sq., London W1A 1AE) for U.S. visa information; send a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Write the U.S. Consulate General (Queen's House, Queen St., Belfast BTI 6EO) if you live in Northern Ireland. Write the Office of Australia Affairs (59th fl., MLC Centre, 19-29 Martin Pl., Sydney New South Wales 2000) if you live in Australia. Write the Office of New Zealand Affairs (29 Fitzherbert Terr., Thorndon, Wellington) if you live in New Zealand.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport or to renew is during the fall and winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210410 for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport).

Embassies and Consulates

Australia

Australian Embassy (1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036, PHONE: 202/797-3000, FAX: 202/797-3040).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001, PHONE: 202/682-1740, FAX: 202/682-7726).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/328-4800, FAX: 202/667-5227).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, PHONE: 202/588-7800, FAX: 202/588-7850).

In 1998 smoking became illegal in all California bars and restaurants. Though some bar owners have built outdoor patios or smoking rooms, others have refused to comply. There is typically not a lot of enforcement of this law, so take your cues from the locals. Hotels and motels are also decreasing their inventory of smoking rooms; inquire at the time you book your reservation if any are available.

The country code for the United States is 1. The area code for Lake Tahoe is 530 on the California side and 775 on the Nevada side.

All U.S. telephone numbers consist of 10 digits -- the three-digit area code, followed by a seven-digit local number. If you're calling a number from another area-code region, dial "1" then all 10 digits. If you're calling from a distance but within the same area code, dial "1" then the last seven digits. For calls within the same local calling area, just dial the seven-digit number. A map of U.S. area codes is printed in the front of most local telephone directories.

Four special prefixes, "800," "888," "877," and "900," are not area codes but indicators of particular kinds of service. "800," "888," and "877" numbers can be dialed free from anywhere in the country -- usually they are prepaid commercial lines that make it easier for consumers to obtain information, products, or services. The "900" numbers charge you for making the call and generally offer some kind of entertainment, such as horoscope readings, sports scores, or sexually suggestive conversations. These services can be very expensive, so know what you're getting into before you dial a "900" number.

Directory & Operator Information

For assistance from an operator, dial "0". To get a local or national telephone number, dial 411; in a few places it is necessary to dial 555-1212. If you want to charge a long-distance call to the person you're calling, call collect by dialing "0" instead of "1" before the 10-digit number, and an operator will come on the line to assist you (the party you're calling, however, has the right to refuse the call).

International Calls

International calls can be direct-dialed from most phones; dial 011, followed by the country code and then the local number (the front pages of many local telephone directories include a list of overseas country codes). To have an operator assist you, dial "0" and ask for the overseas operator. The country code for Australia is 61; New Zealand, 64; and the United Kingdom, 44. To reach Canada, dial 1 + the area code + the number.

Long-Distance Calls

Competitive long-distance carriers make calling within the United States relatively convenient and let you avoid hotel surcharges. By dialing an 800 number, you can get connected to the long-distance company of your choice.

For details, contact AT&T (PHONE: 800/225-5288), MCI (PHONE: 800/888-8000), or Sprint (PHONE: 800/366-2255).

Public Phones

The most common pay phone in operation today is the coin-operated type. To use one, pick up the receiver, deposit your money (the minimum amount is posted on the machine), and then dial the number. An automated message will alert you to deposit more money, if needed.

Telephone-card phones, so popular elsewhere in the world, are becoming increasingly common. Grocery stores, newsstands, and other establishments sell the disposable phone cards, available in varying amounts from $5 and up. To activate the card, dial the code number and follow the instructions printed on the card.

Pay phones cost 35¢ in California, 25¢ in Nevada.

Tourist Offices

California State Department of Parks and Recreation (PHONE: 916/324-4442). Lake Tahoe Hotline (PHONE: 530/542-4636 for south-shore events; 530/546-5253 for north-shore events; 775/831-6677 for Nevada events, www.cal-parks.ca.gov). Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority (1156 Ski Run Blvd., South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150, PHONE: 530/544-5050 or 800/288-2463). North Lake Tahoe Resort Association (Box 5578, Tahoe City, CA 96145, PHONE: 530/583-3494 or 800/824-6348, FAX: 530/581-4081). Ski Report Hotline (PHONE: 415/864-6440). U.S. Forest Service (PHONE: 530/587-3558 office; 530/587-2158 for a recording of backcountry weather conditions).

For general information about California, contact the California Division of Tourism (801 K St., Suite 1600, Sacramento, CA 95814, PHONE: 916/322-2881 or 800/862-2543, FAX: 916/322-3402 or 916/322-0501, www.gocalif.ca.gov).

For information on Nevada, call the Nevada Commission on Tourism (Capitol Complex, 5151 S. Carson St., Carson City, NV 89710, PHONE: 702/687-4322; 800/237-0774; 800/638-2328 for brochures; FAX: 702/687-6779).

At Home

Canadian travelers can contact Travel USA (PHONE: 905/890-5662; 800/268-3482 in Ontario).

In the United Kingdom, contact the United States Travel and Tourism Administration (Box 1EN, London W1A 1EN, PHONE: 020/7495-4466).

California Tourist Office (ABC California, Box 35, Abingdon, Oxfordshire OX14 4TB, PHONE: 0891/200-278, FAX: 020/7242-2838).

Any time of the year is the right time to go to Lake Tahoe. Each of the seasons affects the area in its own, distinctive way: Winter brings snow, autumn is crisp, spring is variable, and summer is clear and warm.

Holidays

Major national holidays include New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Martin Luther King, Jr., Day (3rd Mon. in Jan.); President's Day (3rd Mon. in Feb.); Memorial Day (last Mon. in May); Independence Day (July 4); Labor Day (1st Mon. in Sept.); Thanksgiving Day (4th Thurs. in Nov.); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec. 24 and 25); and New Year's Eve (Dec. 31).

Most traditional businesses are closed these days, but tourist attractions and some restaurants are usually open except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day.

South Tahoe Area Ground Express (STAGE, PHONE: 530/573-2080) runs along U.S. 50 and through the neighborhoods of South Lake Tahoe daily from 6 AM to 12:15 AM.

Tahoe Area Regional Transit (TART, PHONE: 530/581-6365 or 800/736-6365) operates buses along Lake Tahoe's northern and western shores between Tahoma (from Meeks Bay in summer) and Incline Village daily from 6:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Free shuttle buses run among the casinos, major ski resorts, and motels of South Lake Tahoe.

The scenic 72-mile highway around the lake is marked Highway 89 on the southwest and west, Highway 28 on the north and northeast shores, and U.S. 50 on the east and southeast. Sections of Highway 89 sometimes close during winter, making it impossible to complete the circular drive. Interstate 80, U.S. 50, and U.S. 395 are all-weather highways, but there may be delays as snow is cleared during major storms. Carry tire chains from October through May (car-rental agencies provide them with their vehicles).

Car Rentals

A car is essential for touring Lake Tahoe. If you rent in California, rates begin around $30 a day and $150 a week.

In Lake Tahoe

Enterprise (PHONE: 800/325-8007).

At Home

For more information, call Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom), Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand), Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom), Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; where it is known as Eurodollar; 02/9223-1444 in Australia), Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand), or National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Requirements

In California and Nevada you must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you're under 25. There is no upper age limit for car rental.

Road Conditions

Rainy weather can make driving treacherous. Some of the smaller routes over the mountain ranges are prone to flash flooding.

Snow is an even bigger concern for drivers. Many smaller roads are closed in winter, and tire chains may be required on routes that are open. You should purchase tire chains before you get to the mountains, where the cost may double. Garages and gas stations on I-80 and U.S. 50 will install chains for $20 or remove them for $10. On smaller roads, you are on your own. Always carry extra clothing, blankets, and food when driving to the mountains in the winter, and keep your gas tank full to prevent the fuel line from freezing.

Call for information on California roads in Tahoe area (PHONE: 530/445-7623), California roads approaching Tahoe (PHONE: 800/427-7623), or Nevada roads (PHONE: 775/793-1313).

Rules of the Road

In California, the speed limit on many rural highways is 70 mph. Seat belts are required at all times. Tickets can be given for failing to comply. Small children must be in child safety seats. Unless otherwise indicated, right turns are allowed on red lights after you've come to a full stop, and left turns onto adjoining one-way streets are allowed at red lights after you've come to a full stop. Drivers with a blood-alcohol level higher than 0.08 who are stopped by police are subject to arrest, and police can detain those with a level of 0.05 if they appear impaired. The state's drunk-driving laws are extremely tough. The licenses of violators may be immediately suspended, and they may have to spend the night in jail and pay hefty fines.

In Nevada, the speed limit on residential streets is 25 mph. On major thoroughfares it's 45 mph, though drivers often get impatient with people who obey the speed limit and pass on either side. On the interstate and other divided highways the speed limit is 70 and 75 mph. Right turns are permitted on red lights after coming to a full stop in Nevada.

Yellow Cab (PHONE: 530/544-5555 or 530/544-2900) serves all of Tahoe Basin. On the north shore try Tahoe-Truckee Taxi (PHONE: 530/582-8294).