International and domestic flights land at Aeroporto de Portela (LIS) (PHONE: 21/841-3500 or 21/841-3700), 7 km (5 mi) north of the city. There's a tourist office here as well as a currency exchange bureau.

The organization that oversees Portugal's airports, Aeroportos de Portugal (ANA) (www.ana-aeroportos.pt), has a handy Web site with information in English.

The flying time to Lisbon is 6½ hours from New York, 9 hours from Chicago, and 15 hours from Los Angeles. The flight from London to Lisbon is about 2½ hours.

Carriers

For much of the year, TAP Air Portugal has daily nonstop flights from New York (Newark Liberty International Airport) to Lisbon. From mid-December to mid-January and mid-June to mid-September, the number of TAP flights increases to 10 each week. TAP also links Lisbon with other European capitals.

Continental's daily nonstop flights between Newark Liberty International Airport and Lisbon are scheduled to provide convenient connections from destinations elsewhere in the eastern and southern United States. The carrier also has a second daily flight from New York (Newark) to Lisbon via Amsterdam, with the connecting flight on KLM, Continental's code-share partner.

British Airways and TAP have regular nonstop flights from the United Kingdom to several destinations in Portugal. Air France and Alitalia also fly to Lisbon.

Air France (PHONE: 800/237-2747 in the U.S.; 0845/084-5111 in the U.K.; 21/356-2171 in Lisbon, www.airfrance.com).

Alitalia (PHONE: 800/223-5730 in the U.S.; 020/8745-8200 in the U.K.; 21/353-6141 in Lisbon, www.alitalia.it).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/247-9297 in the U.S.; 0845/773-3377 in the U.K.; 21/346-0931 in Lisbon www.british-airways.com).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856; 21/383-4000 in Lisbon www.continental.com).

Qantas (PHONE: 13-13-13 in Australia; 800/808767 in New Zealand; 845/774-7767 in the U.K. www.qantas.com).

TAP Air Portugal (PHONE: 800/221-7370 in the U.S.; 0845/601-0932 in the U.K.; 205700 in Portugal; 21/841-5000 in Lisbon www.tap-airportugal.pt).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

There are no trains or subways between the airport and the city, but getting downtown by bus or taxi is simple and inexpensive.

By Bus

A special bus, Aerobus 91, runs every 20 minutes, 7 AM-9 PM, from outside the airport into the city center. Tickets, which you buy from the driver, cost EUR2.29 or EUR5.49 and allow one or three days of travel, respectively, on all Lisbon's buses and trams; TAP passengers can claim a free ride by showing their boarding pass. The bus stops close to all the major hotels at several useful points, including Praça Marquês de Pombal, Avenida da Liberdade, the Rossío, Praça do Comércio, and the Cais do Sodré train station. As you board the bus the driver will ask your hotel, note it on a sheet of paper, and call you when it's your stop.

City Buses 44 and 45 cost only EUR0.90 one-way and depart every 15-30 minutes 5 AM-1:40 AM from the main road in front of the terminal building. They pass through Praça dos Restauradores en route to the Cais do Sodré train station (from here you can continue by rail to Estoril and Cascais).

By Car

Car-rental firms and the tourist-information office at the airport provide free maps of Lisbon and its environs. The trip to the city center takes 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic.

By Taxi

Taxis in Lisbon are relatively cheap, and the airport is so close to the city center, that many visitors make a beeline straight for a cab (lines form at the terminal). To avoid any hassle over fares you can buy a prepaid voucher (which includes gratuity and luggage charges) from the tourist office booth in the arrivals hall. Expect to pay EUR11-EUR14 to most destinations in the city center and around EUR33 if you're headed for Estoril or Sintra.

The Eurolines/National Express (PHONE: 0990/808080; 0990/143219 for information; 01582/488970 for ticket cancellation) consortium runs regular bus service from the United Kingdom (out of London's Victoria Coach Station) to Lisbon, Oporto, Coimbra, Fátima, Faro, Lagos, and other destinations. The company also has service from Paris, its other major hub.

In Lisbon Intercentro Eurolines (Rua Actor Taborda 55,Estefânia,Lisbon PHONE: 21/330-1500) handles inquiries about Eurolines transportation. There are many companies that offer service between Spain and Portugal and to Portugal from other parts of Europe, so it's best to make arrangements with a travel agent.

Lisbon's main bus terminal is the Gare do Oriente, adjacent to Parque das Nações, which also includes a railway and metro station. Most travel agents can sell you a bus ticket in advance; if you buy from the company ticket office at the main terminal, give yourself plenty of time to purchase before you depart. In summer it's wise to reserve a ticket at least a day in advance for destinations in the Algarve. There are four daily departures from Lisbon for the Algarve and Oporto; towns closer to the capital have more frequent service.

Most international buses and domestic express buses, including those to and from the Algarve, operate from within the Arco do Cego bus terminal (PHONE: 21/354-5439), very near Praça Duque de Saldanha. The Saldanha and Picoas metro stations are just a few minutes' walk away.

Terminals at Praça de Espanha and Campo Pequeno -- both of which have metro stops with the same name -- serve Setúbal-Sesimbra and Portugal's northwest coast, respectively; the terminal at Campo das Cebolas, at the end of Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and east of Praça do Comércio, is for destinations in the Minho and the Algarve; buses to and from Mafra operate from Largo Martim Moniz, northeast of Praça da Figueira.

Most of the country's highways originate in Lisbon, including the fast roads west to Estoril (A5/IC15), south to Setúbal (A2/IP1, via the Ponte 25 de Abril), and north to Oporto (A1/IP1). Crossing via the spectacular Ponte Vasco da Gama, north of the city center, is an alternative route to Setúbal and provides easier access for the main highways east to Spain.

The long-awaited autoestrada from Lisbon to Faro was completed in July 2002, and a toll road now links Lisbon with Portugal's eastern border with Spain and the highway to Madrid.

International trains from France and Spain and long-distance domestic trains from Oporto and the north arrive at and depart from the Santa Apolónia station, on the riverfront to the east of Lisbon's center. One daily train runs to and from Paris; two daily trains to and from Madrid; and frequent daily trains to and from Oporto from 7 AM to midnight. Santa Apolónia station is also connected to the metro network and links directly to Avenida da Liberdade. To reach the Rossío, change at Baixa-Chiado. Buses 9, 12, and 46 also run from outside Santa Apolónia to the center of town. Some long-distance and suburban trains stop at the Oriente station at the Parque das Nações, which is also connected to the metro system.

Local trains to Sintra and all destinations in Estremadura use the central Rossío station, an unmistakably neo-Manueline building that stands between Praça dos Restauradores and the Rossío itself. Trains to Sintra run daily every 15 minutes from 6 AM to 2:40 AM; three trains daily run to towns in Estremadura. For information, tickets, and platforms take the escalators through the station building to the top floor.

Trains along the coast to Estoril and Cascais arrive at and depart from the waterfront Cais do Sodré station, a 10-minute walk west of the Praça do Comércio. Departures both ways are regular -- every 15-30 minutes, 5:30 AM-2:30 AM. Buses 45 and 58 run between Cais do Sodré and the central Lisbon squares; Cais do Sodré metro station provides easy access, or, if you prefer, there's a taxi stand outside the station.

Traveling by train to the Algarve and the south of the country is somewhat more complicated than train travel to other destinations. The Barreiro station is on the opposite side of the Rio Tejo but is linked to Lisbon by a ferry that docks at the Terminal Fluvial (also known as Sul e Sueste), adjacent to Praça do Comércio. The fare is included in the train-ticket price. There are seven daily trains to the Algarve, the first of which leaves at 6:40 AM and the last one -- an overnight service -- at about midnight.

Fares and Reservations

The Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses (CP) (PHONE: 21/888-4025, 800/200904, or 808/208208 www.cp.pt) has general information lines that are really only helpful if you speak Portuguese. Your best bet is to check out the Web site.

Rail Europe (PHONE: 800/942-4866; 800/274-8724; 0870/584-8848 U.K. credit-card bookings www.raileurope.com).

Stations

Estação Barreiro (PHONE: 21/207-3028).

Estação Rossío (PHONE: 21/346-5022).

Estação Santa Apolónia (PHONE: 21/888-4142).

Lunchtime is taken very seriously throughout Portugal with many businesses, particularly outside urban areas, closing between 1 and 3 and opening again until 6 or 7. Government offices typically open from 9 to noon and 2 to 5. It's worth noting religious and public holidays, as most businesses grind to a halt, and even the local transport service may be reduced.

Banks and Offices

Banks are open weekdays 8:30-3. Money exchange booths at airports and train stations are usually open all day (24 hours at Portela Airport in Lisbon).

Gas Stations

Most gas stations on main highways are open 24 hours. In more rural areas, stations will be open 7 AM to 10 PM.

Museums and Sights

Museums and palaces generally open at 10, close for lunch from 12:30 to 2, and then reopen until 5; a few, however, remain open at midday. Many museums are closed on Monday, though some close on Tuesday or Wednesday.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are usually open weekdays 9 to 1 and 3 to 7 and Saturday 9 to 1. When they're closed, pharmacies display a card on their doors indicating where to find a nearby pharmacy that's open all night or on Sunday.

Shops

Although the number of hipermercados (giant supermarkets), supermercados (regular supermarkets), and shopping centers has mushroomed in recent years -- and they're typically open seven days a week 10 AM-midnight -- most shops are open weekdays 9-1 and 3-7, Saturday 9-1. In December, Saturday hours are the same as weekdays. Shops often close on Sunday.

Arriving in Portugal

Visitors age 15 and over are permitted to bring in 200 cigarettes, or 100 cigarillos, or 50 cigars, or 250 grams of loose tobacco. Those 17 years of age and older may bring in 1 liter of liquor over 22 proof and 2 liters of wine. Perfume is limited to 50 grams, eau de cologne to ¼ liter. It's a good idea to carry sales receipts for expensive personal items to avoid paying export duties when you leave.

Information: Direção Geral das Alfândegas (Rua da Alfândega 5,Alfama,Lisbon PHONE: 21/881-3700).

The electrical current in Portugal is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take plugs with two round prongs.

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets marked "For Shavers Only" for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Av. da Liberdade 200, 2nd floor,Centro,Lisbon PHONE: 21/310-1500, www.portugal.embassy.gov.au).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Av. da Liberdade 199-200, 3rd floor,Centro,Lisbon PHONE: 21/316-4600).

United Kingdom

U.K Embassy (Rua São Bernardo 33,Rato,Lisbon PHONE: 21/392-4000, www.uk-embassy.pt).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Av. das Forças Armadas,Seterios,Lisbon PHONE: 21/727-3300, www.american-embassy.pt).

The national number for emergencies is 112, which is the universal EU emergency number.

Ambulance (PHONE: 21/321-7777).

Fire (PHONE: 21/342-2222).

General emergencies (PHONE: 112).

Police (PHONE: 21/346-6141).

For general problems or in case of theft, the Tourism Police (Rua Capelo 13, near Teatro de São Carlos,Chiado PHONE: 21/346-6141) have an office open 24 hours. If you need to make a claim against your travel insurance, you must file a report there.

If you need medical attention, many doctors speak English. Ask the staff at your hotel or at the embassy to recommend a reliable one.

Hospitals

One clinic with English-speaking staff is Clínica Médica Internationale de Lisboa (Rua António Augusto de Aguiar 40,São Sebastião PHONE: 21/351-3310).

Also, you can contact the British Hospital (Rua Saraiva de Carvalho 49,Campo de Ourique PHONE: 21/395-5067 or 21/397-6329).

Other hospitals include:

Hospital Santa Maria (Av. Prof. Egas Moniz,Alto do Pina PHONE: 21/797-5171 or 21/793-2762).

Hospital de São Francisco Xavier (Est. Forte A. Duque,Belém PHONE: 21/797-5171).

Hospital São José (Rua José A. Serrano,Saldanha PHONE: 21/886-2131).

Pharmacies

Hours of operation and listings of druggists that stay open late are posted on most pharmacy doors. Local newspapers also carry a current list of pharmacies that have extended hours. In town, useful pharmacy addresses include the following:

Farmácia Azevedo Filhos (Rossío 31,Baixa PHONE: 21/342-7428).

Farmácia Barral (Rua Augusta 225,Baixa PHONE: 21/342-5372).

Farmácia Durão (Rua Garrett 92,Chiado PHONE: 21/347-6185).

Contacts

Portugal has a strong Catholic influence. If you're visiting a church or place of worship, wear conservative clothing.

If you're invited to dinner by a Portuguese family, a bottle of good wine is a thoughtful gift. Shake hands with everyone, including youngsters, on arriving and leaving. If you're more closely acquainted, a kiss on both cheeks is normal (right cheek always first), except between men. Address men as senhor, women as senhora, and highly respected or older women as dona followed by the Christian name.

In cities, most restaurant patrons are sophisticated and well mannered. In the countryside, however, things might be different: try not to show dismay at locals who eat with their fingers or talk with their mouths full.

Business Etiquette

It's prudent to use a title, such as senhor and senhora during introductions. Shake hands with every man and his dog, and have business cards at the ready. Dress is casual (slacks and nice shirts, with jackets optional) to formal (suits and ties) in Lisbon and Oporto, and casual elsewhere.

Don't expect things to start on time: everybody in Portugal runs late -- period. During meetings, avoid direct criticism or confrontation; strive instead for win-win situations. For a lunch or dinner meeting, it's generally understood that the person who issued the invitation will be the one to pay.

Beware of unauthorized guides who approach you outside popular monuments and attractions: they're usually more concerned with "guiding" you to a particular shop or restaurant. This is not to suggest that persons offering you a tour of the interior of a church or museum should be ignored -- knowledgeable people associated with the particular institution often volunteer their services for a tip of EUR2-EUR3 or so.

Bus Tours

Many companies organize half-day tours of Lisbon and its environs and full-day trips to more distant places of interest. Reservations can be made through any travel agency or hotel; some tours will pick you up at your door. A half-day tour of Lisbon will cost about EUR27. A full-day trip north to Obidos, Nazaré, and Fátima will run about EUR75 (including lunch), as will a full day east on the "Roman Route" to Évora and Monsaraz.

Operators

Citirama (Av. Praia da Vitória 12-B,Saldanha PHONE: 21/355-8564).

Gray Line Tours (Av. Praia da Vitória 12-B,Saldanha PHONE: 21/352-2594).

Top Tours (Av. Duque de Loulé 108,Estefânia PHONE: 21/352-1217).

Private Guides

For names of personal guides, contact Lisbon's main tourist office or the Syndicate of Guide Interpreters (Rua do Telhal 4,Campo de Santana PHONE: 21/346-7170). It can provide an English-speaking guide for half-day (around EUR55) or full-day (around EUR95) tours; the price remains the same for up to 20 people. Office hours are weekdays 9-1 and 2-5:30.

Sunburn and sunstroke are common problems in summer in mainland Portugal and virtually year-round on Madeira. On a hot, sunny day, even people not normally bothered by a strong rays should cover up. Carry sunscreen for nose, ears, and other sensitive areas; be sure to drink enough liquids; and above all, limit your sun exposure for the first few days until you become accustomed to the heat. No special shots are required before visiting Portugal (except for yellow-fever shots if you want to visit Madeira and have come from an infected area).

If your system is sensitive to new and different foods, note that mild cases of diarrhea may respond to Imodium, Lomotil (known generically as loperamide), or Pepto-Bismol (not as strong), all of which can be purchased over the counter. Drink plenty of purified water or chá (tea) -- camomila (chamomile) is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution: ½ teaspoon sal (salt) and 4 tablespoons açúcar (sugar) per quart of agua (water). The word for aspirin is aspirinha; Tylenol is pronounced tee-luh-nawl.

Portuguese is the seventh most spoken language in the world. It can be difficult to pronounce and understand (most people speak quickly and elliptically). If, however, you have a fair knowledge of a Latin language, you may be able to read a little Portuguese. Just be aware that, with some cognates, appearances can be deceptive -- it's best to double-check terms in a pocket Portuguese-English dictionary. Any attempt you make to speak Portuguese will be well received. In large cities and major resorts many people speak English and, occasionally, Spanish or French.

The correio central (main post office) on Praça do Comércio receives poste restante (general delivery) mail and is open Monday-Saturday 8:30-6. You'll need your passport to collect your mail. The post office on the eastern side of Praça dos Restauradores, at Number 58, is open Monday-Saturday 8 AM-10 PM and Sunday 9-6.

You can expect a letter to take 7-10 days to reach the United States, Australia, or New Zealand and 4-5 days to the United Kingdom or elsewhere in the European Union. All post is sent airmail unless otherwise specified.

The Portuguese postal service -- the CTT (www.ctt.pt) -- has a Web site with some information in English. If you're looking for post office locations and hours, however, you'll need to know a few Portuguese terms: click on the tab labeled "pesquisa de estações" ("search for stations or offices"), then click on the words "estações de correiros" ("mail stations/offices"), and type the name of town or city in the localidade (location) field.

Overnight Services

The largest national courier company is Correia Azul, which has branches in cities, large towns, and major resorts. Expect to pay slightly over three times as much as normal postage, and delivery time is generally between two and three days. Other companies include DHL, TNT, and Federal Express. Overnight courier service is only available within Europe.

Major Services

Correia Azul (PHONE: 800/206868).

DHL (PHONE: 21/810-0099).

Federal Express (PHONE: 800/244144).

TNT (PHONE: 21/854-5050).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR0.54 for up to 15 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom and other EU countries EUR0.43 for up to 20 grams. Letters within Portugal are EUR0.28. Postcards cost the same as letters. You can buy selos (stamps) at correios (post offices) or at kiosks and shops displaying a red correios-selos sign. There are stamp-vending machines scattered about Lisbon.

Receiving Mail

If you're on the move it's best to have your mail sent to American Express (PHONE: 800/543-4080); call for lists of offices in Portugal.

An alternative is to have mail held at a Portuguese post office; have it addressed to poste restante or lista de correios (general delivery) in a town you'll be visiting. Postal addresses should include the name of the province and district -- for example, Figueira da Foz (Coimbra).

Shipping Parcels

Although you can send packages by registered air mail, it's best to ship them through the more reliable courier services. In short, don't send anything from a Portuguese post office that you can't afford to lose.

Lisbon isn't as expensive as most other international capitals, but it's not the extraordinary bargain it used to be. The coastal resort areas from Cascais and Estoril down to the Algarve can be expensive, though there are lower-price hotels and restaurants catering mainly to the package-tour trade. If you head off the beaten track you'll find substantially cheaper food and lodging.

Transportation is still cheap in Portugal when compared with the rest of Europe. Gas prices are controlled by the government, and train and bus travel are inexpensive. Highway tolls are steep but may be worth the cost if you want to bypass the small towns and villages. Flights within the country are costly.

ATMs

ATMs are ubiquitous, and the Portuguese use them for banking as well as for paying bills and taxes. The Multibanco, or MB, system, is state-of-the-art and reliable. The cards most frequently accepted are Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Eurocheque, Eurocard, and Electron. You need a four-digit PIN to use ATMs in Portugal.

Currency

All transactions are made in euros. Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents.

Exchanging Money

Most major banks have offices in the Baixa, and there are currency-exchange facilities at the airport (open 24 hours) and at Santa Apolónia train station (open daily 8:30-8:30). Large hotels and some travel agencies also offer exchange facilities, but the rates are usually poor. Few savvy travelers use them anyway; ATMs are ubiquitous and have better rates.

Taxes

Value-added tax (IVA, pronounced ee-vah, in Portuguese) is 12% for hotels. By law prices must be posted at the reception desk and should indicate whether tax is included. Restaurants are also required to charge 12% IVA. Menus generally state at the bottom whether tax is included (IVA incluido) or not (mas 12% IVA). When in doubt about whether tax is included in a price, ask: Está incluido o IVA?

A number of Portuguese stores, particularly large ones and those in resorts, offer a refund of the 19% IVA on single items worth more than EUR80. Be sure to ask for your tax-free check; you show your passport, fill out a form, and the store mails you the refund at home.

V.A.T. Refunds

Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307,Nyack,NY10960 PHONE: 800/566-9828 FAX: 845/348-1549 www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Service is included in café, restaurant, and hotel bills, but waiters and other service people are poorly paid, and you can be sure your contribution will be appreciated. If, however, you received bad service, never feel obligated (or intimidated) to leave a tip. An acceptable tip is 10%-15% of the total bill, and if you have a sandwich or petiscos (appetizers) at a bar, leave less, just enough to round out the bill to the nearest EUR0.50. Cocktail waiters get EUR0.30-EUR0.50 a drink, depending on the bar.

Taxi drivers get about 10% of the meter; more for long rides or extra help with luggage (note that there's also an official surcharge for airport runs and baggage). Hotel porters should receive EUR1 a bag; a doorman who calls you a taxi, EUR0.50. Tip EUR1 for room service and EUR1-EUR2 per night for maid service. Tip a concierge for any additional help he or she gives you.

Tip tour guides EUR2-EUR5, depending on how knowledgeable they are and on the length of the tour. Ushers in theaters or bullfights get EUR0.50; barbers and hairdressers (for a wash and a set) at least EUR1. Washroom attendants are tipped EUR0.50.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Portugal

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United States need a valid passport to enter Portugal for stays of up to 60 days. Visas are required for longer stays and, in some instances, for visits to other countries in addition to Portugal. Citizens of the European Union need a valid passport but can stay indefinitely.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

In Portugal restaurants, cinemas, theaters, libraries, and service stations are required to have public toilets, though train stations are likely to have pay toilets. Rest rooms can range from marble-clad opulence to little better than primitive, but in most cases they're reasonably clean. Few are adapted for travelers with disabilities. Women's rest rooms are often looked after by an attendant who customarily receives a tip of EUR0.50.

Your biggest threat is likely to be petty theft (i.e., pickpocketing and bag snatching). Don't wear a money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a purse, choose one with a zipper and a thick strap that you can drape across your body; adjust the length so that the purse sits in front of you at or above hip level. Store only enough money in the purse to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch in public.

Be particularly cautious in crowded areas and in the poorer areas of large cities. Be wary of anyone stopping you on the street to ask for directions, the time, or where you're from -- particularly if there's more than one person and if you have recently visited the bank or an ATM.

Shopkeepers, restaurateurs, and other business owners are generally honest, and credit card receipts are rarely subject to copying. There have been occasional incidents of highway robbery, where the thief slashes the victim's tires during a stop at a gas station and then follows the victim, offering to "help" when the tire goes completely flat. In other cases, the thief takes advantage of an unwary traveler who has left car keys in the ignition or money or a handbag on the seat while stopped at a gas station.

The country code for Portugal is 351. The area code for Lisbon and its surrounding area (including Cascais, Estoril, and Sintra) is 21. To access Lisbon from abroad, dial 351 (Portugal's country code), then 21 plus the number. From within Portugal, you need just 21 plus the number.

All phone numbers have nine digits, the first two being the area code in or around Lisbon and Oporto, the first three anywhere else in the country. All fixed-phone area codes begin with 2; mobile numbers, which also have nine digits, begin with 9.

Directory and Operator Assistance

For general information, dial 118 (operators often speak English). The international information and assistance numbers are 171 for operator-assisted calls, 172 for collect calls, and 177 for information (the operators speak English).

International Calls

Calling abroad is expensive from hotels, which often add a considerable surcharge. The best way to make an international call is to go to the local telephone office and have someone place it for you. In Lisbon, the phone office at the post office in Praça dos Restauradores is the best place to make long-distance calls, but expect to take a numbered ticket and wait your turn in line. There's another office on the northwestern corner of the Rossío, at Number 65, that's open daily 8 AM-10 PM. When the call is connected, you'll be directed to a quiet cubicle and charged according to the meter. If the price is EUR10 or more, you can pay with Visa or MasterCard.

You can also make direct-dial long-distance calls from most phone booths on the street, although it's easiest if you use a phone card.

To make an international call yourself, dial 00 followed directly by the country code (1 for the United States, 44 for the United Kingdom, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand) and the area code and number. The Portuguese telephone directory contains a list of all of the principal world country codes and the codes for principal cities.

If you have an AT&T, MCI, or Sprint calling card, you can enter the appropriate access number from your hotel phone (and some public phones) to be connected with an English-speaking operator to make an international call. Be aware that you cannot get this service from all phones in the city.

Long-Distance Calls

To make calls to other areas within Portugal, precede the provincial code with 0 (most phone booths have a chart inside listing the various province codes). The 0 is unnecessary when dialing from outside Portugal.

Public Phones

Pay phones are abundant and either take coins only or coins and phone cards.

The easiest way to call from a public booth is to use a Portugal Telecom (www.telecom.pt/uk/) cartão telefônico (calling card), which you can buy at post offices, newspaper shops, and tobacconists for either EUR5 or EUR10. The phones that accept them have digital readouts, so you can see your time ticking away. Instructions in several languages, including English, are posted in the booths.

With coin-operated phones you insert coins and wait for a dial tone. The minimum cost for a local call is EUR0.20; it's EUR0.50 to call another area, for which you must dial the area code.

You can ask to use the phone in cafés or bars, where they're often metered. The waiter or bartender will charge you after you've finished, though expect to pay a higher rate than the one you would pay in a public phone booth.

Tourist Offices

In Lisbon

The Lisbon branch of Portugal's tourist office -- Investimentos, Comércio e Turismo de Portugal (ICEP) (Palácio Foz, Praça dos Restauradores,Baixa PHONE: 21/346-3314; 21/845-0660 to airport branch) -- is open daily 9-8. It's in the Palácio Foz, at the Baixa end of Avenida da Liberdade. There's also a branch at the airport that's open daily 6 AM to midnight.

A much more rewarding place to get information is the Lisboa Welcome Centre (Praça do Comércio,Baixa PHONE: 21/031-2810), though you may have to wait patiently in a long line. The good news is that the information desk, which is open daily 9-8, is in a small complex with a café, a restaurant, a gallery, and a few shops.

For general inquiries, you can try the Linha Verde Turista (PHONE: 0800/296296) toll-free number.

Linha Verde Turista For information on all the facilities and events at the Parque das Nações (PHONE: 21/891-9333 www.parquedasnacoes.pt), stop at the information desk on Alameda dos Oceanos, in front of the Vasco da Gama center. The desk is open daily 9:30 to 8.

At Home

Portugese National Tourist Office ((22-25A Sackville St.,LondonW1X 1DE,U.K. PHONE: 020/7494-1441 590 5th Ave., 4th floor,New York,NY10036 PHONE: 212/354-4403 60 Bloor St. W, Suite 1005,Toronto,OntarioM4W 3BS,Canada PHONE: 416/921-7376)).

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811, 2201 C St. NW,Washington,DC20520 PHONE: 888/407-4747; 202/647-5225 interactive hot line www.travel.state.gov); enclose a business-size SASE.

It's best not to visit at the height of summer, when the city positively steams and lodgings are expensive and crowded. Winters are generally mild and usually accompanied by bright blue skies, but for optimum Lisbon weather, visit on either side of summer, in May or late September through October. The city's major festivals are in June; the so-called santos populares (popular saints) see days of riotous celebration dedicated to saints Anthony, John, and Peter.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Lisbon:

January 46-57°F (8-14°C); February 47-59°F (8-15°C); March 50-63°F (10-17°C); April 53-67°F (12-20°C); May 55-71°F (13-21°C); June 60-77°F (15-25°C); July 63-81°F (17-27°C); August 63-82°F (17-28°C); September 62-79°F (17-26°C); October 58-72°F (14-22°C); November 52-63°F (11-17°C); December 47-58°F (9-15°C).

Holidays

New Year's Day (January 1); Mardi Gras (better known as Carnaval; the day before Ash Wednesday); Good Friday; Easter Sunday; Liberty Day (April 25); Labor Day (May 1); Corpo de Deus (May 30); Camões Day (June 10); Assumption (August 15); Republic Day (October 5); All Saints' Day (November 1); Independence Day (December 1); Immaculate Conception (December 8); Christmas Day (December 25).

If a national holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, many businesses also close on the Monday or Friday in between, for a long weekend called a ponte (bridge). There are also local holidays when entire towns, cities, and regions grind to a standstill. Check the nearest tourist office for dates.

The best way to see central Lisbon is on foot. It's a small city by any standard, and most of the points of interest are within the well-defined older quarters. Just remember that the city is hilly and has cobblestone sidewalks that can make walking tiring (especially in the hot summer), even when you wear comfortable shoes. At some point you'll probably want to use the public-transportation system, if only to experience the old trams and funicular railways and elevators.

If you're staying in Lisbon for more than a few days, buy one of the various transport passes. A pass for unlimited rides on a tram, bus, funicular, or elevator costs EUR2.55 for one day's travel; four-day passes are EUR9.25; seven-day passes cost EUR13.10.

All buses, trams, and elevators are operated by Carris, the city's public transportation company; the metro has a different ticketing system. You can buy passes or tickets at the Cais do Sodré station, Restauradores metro station, and Carris kiosks throughout the city. If you decide not to use a pass, opt for advance tickets at EUR0.45 a ride; if you pay cash, the fare is EUR0.90 a ride.

Another option is the Lisboa Card, a special pass that allows free travel on all public transportation and free entry into 27 museums, monuments, and galleries -- including all the major city attractions. You can buy cards that are valid for 24 hours (EUR10.97), 48 hours (EUR17.97), or 72 hours (EUR22.94). They're sold at the airport (in well-signed kiosks), at the Mosteiro de Jerónimos, in the Lisboa Welcome Centre, at the tourist office in the Palácio Foz, and other places around the city.

Avoid using public transportation, especially on the metro, during rush hours. Pickpockets ply their trade on crowded trains, buses, and trams. Keep an eye on your possessions, and carry wallets in inside pockets and bags and backpacks with the fastening facing your body. If your hotel lacks a convenient safe, consider stashing some documents and cash in a money belt.

Carris information line (PHONE: 21/361-3054 www.carris.pt).

City buses are operated by the public transportation company Carris (PHONE: 21/361-3054 www.carris.pt) and run 6:30 AM to midnight. Each stop is posted with full details of routes. For a spectacular journey across the Ponte 25 de Abril over the Rio Tejo take a bus from Praça de Espanha to Costa da Caparica or Setúbal.

You can buy tickets for buses, elevadors, and funiculars at Carris kiosks in the Praça de Figueira, at the foot of the Elevador de Santa Justa, in the Santa Apolónia and Cais do Sodré railway stations, and elsewhere around town. If you pay with cash (have small change on hand if possible) it's twice the price. Either pay when boarding or simply insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine behind the driver and wait for the pinging noise.

Lisbon sees some of the most reckless driving in all of Portugal. Add to this the notoriously difficult parking situation in the city center and the cramped older quarters, and there's much to be said for not using a car in the capital.

Car Rentals

Rates in Lisbon begin at around EUR25 a day and EUR175 a week for a standard economy car with unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 19%.

Automatic cars are more expensive and harder to find. The good news is that most rental cars have air-conditioning. Among the most common car makes are Citroën, Opel, Nissan, Fiat, and Ford.

It's often much cheaper to arrange car rental in conjunction with your airline ticket or by contacting a car company directly before you arrive. But if you've left it until get to Portugal, all the major car-rental companies have offices at the airport and at Santa Apolónia station. In central Lisbon you'll find Avis, Budget, Europcar, and Hertz. Smaller local car-rental companies are also represented in Lisbon; the tourist office has full details.

In Lisbon

Auto Jardim (PHONE: 21/846-3187).

Avis (Av. Praia da Vitória 12c,Saldanha PHONE: 21/351-4560; 21/843-5550 airport branch; 0800/201002).

Budget (Av. Visconde Valmor 36B,Saldanha PHONE: 21/797-1377; 21/847-8803 airport branch).

Europcar (Av. António Agusto de Aguiar 24,Saldanha PHONE: 21/353-5115; 21/847-3181 airport; 21/886-1573 Santa Apolónia station).

Hertz (Rua do Castilho 72Rato PHONE: 21/381-2430; 21/849-2722 airport branch; 0800/221231).

Rentauto (PHONE: 21/846-2294 in Lisbon).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

All large garages in and around towns have breakdown services, and you'll see orange emergency (SOS) phones along turnpikes and highways.

The national automobile organization, Automóvel Clube de Portugal (PHONE: 21/942-9103 for breakdowns south of Pombal; 22/834-0001 for breakdowns north of Pombal), provides reciprocal membership with AAA and other European automobile associations.

Gasoline

Gas stations are plentiful. Prices are controlled by the government and are the same everywhere. Credit cards are frequently accepted at gas stations.

Requirements

Most agencies won't rent to you if you're under the age of 21 or over 69, unless you make special arrangements. In Portugal your own driver's license is acceptable.

Although your driver's license from home is recognized in Portugal, an international driving permit (IDP) is a good idea. You can acquire one through the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

Road Conditions

Major EU-funded work has been done on Portugal's highway system; commercially operated autoestradas (toll roads with four or more lanes identified with an "A" and a number) link the principal cities, including Oporto, with Lisbon, circumventing congested urban centers. Many main national highways (labeled with "N" and a number) have been upgraded to toll-free, two-lane roads identified with "IP" (Itinerario Principal) and a number. Highways of mainly regional importance have been upgraded to IC (Itinerario Complementar). Roads labeled with "E" and a number are routes that connect with the Spanish network. Because road construction is still underway, you may find that one road has several designations -- A, N, IP, E, etc. -- on maps and signs.

Tolls seem steep in Portugal, but time saved by traveling the autoestradas usually makes them worthwhile. Minor roads are often poor and winding with unpredictable surfaces. The local driving may be faster and less forgiving than you're used to, and other visitors in rental cars on unfamiliar roads can cause problems: drive carefully.

Heading out of Lisbon, there's good, fast access to Setúbal and to Évora and other Alentejo towns, although rush-hour traffic on the Ponte 25 de Abril (25 de Abril Bridge) across the Rio Tejo (Tagus River) can be frustrating. An alternative is taking the 17-km-long (11-mi-long) Ponte Vasco da Gama (Europe's second-longest water crossing after the Chunnel) across the Tejo estuary to Montijo; you can then link up with southbound and eastbound roads. Signposting on these fast roads isn't always adequate, so keep your eyes peeled for exits and turnoffs.

Contact the national automobile association, Automóvel Clube de Portugal (Rua Rosa Araújo 24/26,Marquês de Pombal,Lisbon1200 PHONE: 21/318-0100) for a first-rate road map of the country.

Rules of the Road

Driving is on the right. At the junction of two roads of equal size, traffic coming from the right has priority. Vehicles already in a traffic circle have priority over those entering it from any point. The use of seat belts is obligatory. Horns shouldn't be used in built-up areas, and you should always carry a reflective red warning triangle, for use in a breakdown, your drivers license, and proof of car insurance. The speed limit on turnpikes is 120 kph (74 mph); on other roads it's 90 kph (56 mph), and in built-up areas, 50 kph-60 kph (30 mph-36 mph).

Billboards warning you not to drink and drive dot the countryside, and punishable alcohol levels are low. Portuguese drivers are notoriously rash, and the country has one of the highest traffic fatality rates in Europe -- drive defensively.

Ferries still cross the Rio Tejo, although there are fewer now that Lisbon has two great bridges rather than one. Ferries leave from jetties at Praça do Comércio (Fluvial terminal). The journey is worth making at least once for the spectacular view it affords of Lisbon from the water.

Small funicular-railway systems and an ingenious vertical elevator (both are called "elevador") link some of the high and low parts of Lisbon. All are operated by Carris (PHONE: 21/361-3054 www.carris.pt), the public transportation company, whose kiosks sell tickets (the fare is double the price if you pay in cash instead of with a ticket).

Of the funicular railways, the most useful are the Elevador da Glória, which runs from Calçada da Glória, just behind Praça dos Restauradores, to Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara in the Bairro Alto, and the Elevador da Bica, which runs from Rua do Loreto down to Rua Boavista, northwest of Cais do Sodré. At this writing, the Elevador de Santa Justa functioned only as a tourist attraction -- the walkway at the top leading to the Largo do Carmo in the Bairro Alto was closed for renovations. Departures on all three services are every few minutes from 7 AM to 11 PM.

The metro is modern and efficient. At the northeasterly tip of the service, Gare do Oriente connects the hugely popular Parque das Nações to the rest of the city, and you'll also find the metro useful for transport to and from the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian and to Praça de Espanha for the bus across the Ponte 25 de Abril to Setúbal; there are stops en route along Avenida da Liberdade and at the Parque Eduardo VII. The metro operates 6:30 AM to 1 AM. Individual tickets cost EUR0.55; a 10-ticket strip, a caderneta, costs EUR4.50. There's also a one-day (EUR1.40) or seven-day (EUR4.80) Pase Metropolitano (Metro Pass) for use just on the metro system. Insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine at the barrier.

Metro information (PHONE: 21/355-8457 www.metrolisboa.pt).

Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap. Drivers use meters but can take out-of-towners for a ride, literally, by not taking the most direct route. If you book a cab from a hotel or restaurant, have someone speak to the driver so there are no "misunderstandings" about your destination. The meter starts at EUR1.75 during the day and EUR2.09 at night. The price per kilometer during the day on weekdays is EUR0.32; it rises to EUR0.37 evenings and weekends. Supplementary charges are added for luggage and if you phone for a cab (EUR0.75). The meter generally isn't used for journeys outside Lisbon, so you'll have to agree on a fare.

You may hail cruising vehicles, but it's sometimes difficult to get drivers' attention; there are taxi stands at most main squares. Remember that when the green light is on, it means the cab is already occupied. Tips -- 10% or so -- for reliable drivers are appreciated.

Taxi Companies

Autocoope (PHONE: 21/793-2756).

Rádio Táxis (PHONE: 21/811-9300.

) Télétaxi (PHONE: 21/811-1100).

Lisbon's elétrico system, operated by the public transportation company Carris (PHONE: 21/361-3054 www.carris.pt), is one of the most amusing and enjoyable ways to get around, especially if you can board one of the clunky old wooden ones (and remember to secure your bag and wallet against pickpockets) rather than the sleek new supertrams, emblazoned with ads. For a taste of the old days, catch Tram 28 for an inexpensive tour of the city from the Alfama; Tram 15 will take you to Belém, passing by or near many of that district's sights; Tram 18 runs right to the Palácio de Ajuda, also in Belém. Stops are indicated by "Paragem" (stop) signs on the sidewalks, and every stop has a route indicator for each tram that passes that way. Buying tickets in advance at Carris kiosks will cost you half as much as paying the fare in cash when you board. The system operates 6:30 AM to midnight; insert your ticket in the ticket-punch machine by the driver.