Sit at the chef's table, a 6- to 8-seat booth right inside the kitchen, and watch the art and intensity. Ramsay is Britain's greatest chef, and Claridge's is booked six months in advance -- Tony Blair came for his birthday. They do breakfast, bargain three-course lunches (£25), and stunning dinners for £50 and £60. Try the eight-hour roast shoulder of lamb, braised halibut, or brill in red wine. Book months ahead but arrive early for dinner and have a drink at Claridge's art deco bar, the best cocktail lounge in London. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Tube: Bond St.