Santi Santamaria's Madrid branch of his Racó de Can Fabes just outside of Barcelona has proved an immediate and major success in the Spanish capital. Along with Juan Mari Arzak and Ferrán Adriá, one of the reigning troika of Spanish chefs, Santamaria may be the best of all. Lighter and more original than Arzak, less playful and bizarre than Adriá, Santamaria serves up exquisite combinations of Mediterranean ingredients accompanied by a comprehensive and daring wine list. Reservations essential.