In the golden-age literary quarter, this romantic little hideaway is gathering a following for its carne a la brasa (meat cooked over coals), pescado a la sal (fish cooked in a shell of salt), homemade pastas with various seafood dressings, and terrific salads. The pasta a los carabineros (with scarlet shrimp) is said to be seducing everyone from Penelope Cruz to Alie Nicholas.