This Castilian tavern wouldn't have looked out of place two or three centuries ago. Squeeze past the old, zinc-top bar, crowded with Madrileños downing shots of Valdepeñas red wine, and into the tile dining rooms. Feast on thick slabs of red meat, sizzling on plates so hot that it continues to cook at your table. The Spanish consider overcooking a sin, so expect looks of dismay if you ask for your meat well done (bien hecho). You order by weight, so remember that a medio kilo is more than a pound. To start, try the pisto manchego (the La Mancha version of ratatouille) or the Castilian sopa de ajo (garlic soup). Reservations essential.