Serving Madrid specialties for more than 150 years, Lhardy looks about the same as it must have on day one, with its dark-wood paneling, brass chandeliers, and red-velvet chairs. Most people come for the traditional cocido a la madrileña and callos a la madrileña. Game, sea bass, and soufflés are also available. Dining rooms are upstairs; the ground-floor entry doubles as a delicatessen and stand-up coffee bar that fills on chilly winter mornings with shivering souls sipping steaming-hot caldo (broth) from silver urns.