This old Madrid favorite is now part of priest-restaurateur Patxo de Lezama's sprawling gastronomic empire (which extends to Washington, D.C.). The ceramic-tile tavern retains much of the atmosphere it had in the mid-20th century, when Carmencita herself cared for customers as though they were long-lost children. Try the chipirones en su tinta (squid in its ink) and sopa de pescado (fish soup), or go for the EUR21 sampler menu. The restaurant is just north of the Gran Vía-Calle Alcalá intersection.