This Andalusian deep-fry specialist, decorated with hanging hams and garlic, is one of the happiest places in Madrid. The staff is jovial, and the house specialty, trucha a la truchana (crisped trout stuffed with ample garlic and diced jabugo, ham) is a work of art. Other star entrées are chopitos (baby squid), pollo al ajillo (chunks of chicken in crisped garlic), and espárragos trigueros (wild asparagus). Jarras (pitchers) of chilled Valdepeñas, a young Beaujolais-like claret, seem to function as laughing gas in this magic little bistro. The Nuñez de Arce branch, just down from the Hotel Reina Victoria, is usually less crowded. Other location: Nuñez de Arce 6, Santa Ana, Madrid, Spain, PHONE:91/532-0890.