At Madrid's most traditional restaurant, host to a long list of Spain's illustrious, from royalty to philosophers and painters and bullfighters, expect simple home cooking in an unpretentious environment. You'll get a flagon of Valdepeñas or a split of a Rioja reserva to accompany the perdiz con judiones (partridge with broad beans). The pepitoria de gallina (hen in an almond sauce) is another favorite.