Madrid is served by Aeropuerto de Madrid Barajas (MAD) (PHONE: 91/305-8343, 91/305-8344, 91/305-8345, or 91/393-6000), 12 km (7 mi) east of the city.

Flying time from New York is seven hours; from London, just over two.

Carriers

From North America, American, Continental, Delta, US Airways, Iberia, Air Europa, and Spanair fly to Madrid. Within Spain, Iberia is the main domestic airline, but Air Europa and Spanair fly domestic routes at lower prices.

Iberia runs a shuttle, the puente aereo, between Madrid and Barcelona from about 7 AM to 11 PM; planes depart hourly and more frequently in the morning and afternoon commute hours. You don't need to reserve ahead; you can buy your tickets at the airport ticket counter upon arriving. In Madrid, the shuttle departs from Terminal 3.

From North America

Air Europa (PHONE: 888/238-7672).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856).

Delta (PHONE: 800/221-1212).

Iberia (PHONE: 800/772-4642).

Spanair (PHONE: 888/545-5757).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/622-1015).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377).

Easy Jet (PHONE: 0870/600-0000).

Go (PHONE: 0870/607-6543).

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854).

Within Spain

Air Europa (PHONE: 902/401501).

Iberia (902/400500).

Spanair (PHONE: 902/131415).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Some hotels offer shuttle service in vans; check with yours when you reserve.

By Bus

For EUR3 there's a convenient bus to the central Plaza Colón, where you can catch a taxi to your hotel. Buses leave every 15 minutes between 5:40 AM and 2 AM (slightly less often very early or late in the day). Watch your belongings -- the underground Plaza Colón bus station is a favorite haunt of purse snatchers and con artists.

By Car

To reach central Madrid, take the A2 Barcelona route to the M30 highway.

By Taxi

In bad traffic, the 15-minute taxi ride to Madrid can take the better part of an hour, but it makes sense to take a taxi if you have a lot of luggage. Taxis normally wait outside the airport terminal near the clearly marked bus stop; expect to pay up to EUR15, more in heavy traffic, plus small holiday, late-night, or luggage surcharges. Make sure the driver is on the meter -- off-the-meter "deals" almost always cost more.

By Metro

The speediest transfer is the Line 8 metro, running every few minutes (daily from 6:30 AM to 10:30 PM) between Nuevos Ministerios and Barajas Airport; it's EUR1 and takes 12 minutes.

Madrid has no central bus station; buses are generally less popular than trains (though they can be faster). Most of southern Spain is served by the Estación del Sur. Buses for much of the rest of the peninsula, including Cuenca, Extremadura, Salamanca, and Valencia, depart from the Auto Res station. There are several smaller stations, however, so inquire at travel agencies for the one serving your destination.

Bus companies of interest include La Sepulvedana, serving Segovia, Ávila, and La Granja; Herranz, for El Escorial and the Valle de los Caídos; Continental Auto, serving Cantabria and the Basque region; and La Veloz, with service to Chinchón.

Bus Companies

Continental Auto (C. Alenza 20, Chamartín, PHONE: 902-33-04-00; Metro: metro: Ríos Rosas).

Herranz (Fernández de los Ríos s/n, Moncloa, PHONE: 91/730-9678; Metro: metro: Moncloa).

La Sepulvedana (Paseo de la Florida 11, near Estación del Norte, Moncloa, PHONE: 91/530-4800).

La Veloz (Mediterraneo 49, Atocha, PHONE: 91/409-7602; Metro: metro: Conde de Casal).

Bus Stations

Auto Res (Plaza Conde de Casal 6, Atocha; Metro: metro: Conde de Casal).

Estación del Sur (Méndez Álvaro s/n, Atocha, PHONE: 91/468-4200; Metro: metro: Méndez Álvaro).

Many of the nation's highways radiate from Madrid like the spokes of a wheel. Originating at Kilometer 0 -- marked by a brass plaque on the sidewalk of the Puerta del Sol -- these highways include the A6 (Segovia, Salamanca, Galicia); A1 (Burgos and the Basque Country); the N-II (Guadalajara, Barcelona, France); the N-III (Cuenca, Valencia, the Mediterranean coast); the A4 (Aranjuez, La Mancha, Granada, Seville); the N401 (Toledo); and the N-V (Talavera de la Reina, Portugal). The city is surrounded by the M30 (the inner ring road) and M40 (the outer ring road), from which most of these highways are easily picked up.

For train schedules and reservations, go to any of Madrid's major train stations, visit a travel agent, or call RENFE (PHONE: 902/240202, www.renfe.es/ingles) toll-free. You can charge tickets to your credit card and even have them delivered to your hotel.

Madrid has three main train stations: Chamartín, Atocha, and Norte, the last primarily for commuter trains.

Generally speaking, Estación Chamartín (PHONE: 91/315-9976), near the northern tip of Paseo de la Castellana, serves points north and west, including Barcelona, San Sebastián, Burgos, León, Oviedo, La Coruña, and Salamanca, as well as France and Portugal.

Estación de Atocha (PHONE: 91/328-9020), at the southern end of Paseo del Prado, serves towns near Madrid, including El Escorial, Segovia, and Toledo, and southern and eastern cities such as Seville, Málaga, Córdoba, Valencia, and Castellón. Atocha also sends AVE (high-speed) trains to Córdoba and Seville.

If you purchase a same-day round-trip ticket while in Spain, you'll get a 20% discount; if you purchase a different-day round-trip ticket, a 10% discount applies.

Commuter trains and most long-distance trains forbid smoking, though some long-distance trains have smoking cars.

From the U.K.

Train services to Spain from the United Kingdom are not as frequent, fast, or affordable as flights, and you have to change trains -- and stations -- in Paris. Allow 2 hours for the changing process, then 13 hours for the trip from Paris to Madrid. It's worth paying extra for the Talgo express or Puerta del Sol express to avoid changing trains again at the Spanish border. If you're under 26 years old, Eurotrain has excellent deals.

Information

Eurotrain (52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W OAG, U.K., PHONE: 0207/730-8832).

Transalpino (71-75 Buckingham Palace Rd., London SW1W ORE, U.K., PHONE: 0207/834-9656).

Banks and Offices

Banks are generally open Monday-Friday 8:30 or 9 until 2 or 2:30. Some banks occasionally open on Saturday 8:30 or 9 until 2 or 2:30. From October to May, savings banks are also open Thursday 4:30-8. Currency exchanges at airports and train stations stay open later; you can also cash traveler's checks at El Corte Inglés department stores until 10 PM (some branches close at 9 PM or 9:30 PM.) Most government offices are open weekdays 9-2 only.

Museums and Sights

Most museums are open from 9:30 to 2 and 4 to 7 six days a week, usually every day but Monday. Schedules are subject to change, particularly between the high and low seasons, so confirm opening hours before you make plans. A few large museums, such as Madrid's Prado and Reina Sofía, stay open all day, without a siesta.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies keep normal business hours (9-1:30 and 5-8), but every mid-size town (or city neighborhood) has a duty pharmacy that stays open 24 hours. The location of the duty pharmacy is usually posted on the front door of all pharmacies.

Shops

When planning a shopping trip, remember that almost all shops in Spain close at midday for at least three hours. The only exceptions are large supermarkets and the department-store chain El Corte Inglés. Stores are generally open from 9 or 10 to 1:30 and from 5 to 8. Most shops are closed on Sunday, and in Madrid and several other places they're also closed Saturday afternoon. Larger shops in tourist areas may stay open Sunday in summer and during the Christmas holiday.

Arriving in Spain

From countries that are not part of the European Union, visitors age 15 and over may enter Spain duty-free with up to 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, up to 1 liter of alcohol over 22 proof, and up to 2 liters of wine. Dogs and cats are admitted as long as they have up-to-date vaccination records from their home country.

Spain's electrical current is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. If your appliances are dual-voltage you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as hair dryers. Most laptop computers operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts, so they require only an adapter.

Australia (Plaza del Descubridor Diego de Ordás 3, Chamberí, PHONE: 91/441-9300). Canada (C. Nuñez de Balboa 35, Salamanca, PHONE: 91/423-3250).

New Zealand (Plaza de Lealtad 2, Centro, PHONE: 91/523-0226).

United Kingdom (C. Fernando el Santo 19, Chamberí, PHONE: 91/700-8200).

United States (C. Serrano 75, Salamanca, PHONE: 91/577-4000).

In any emergency, call 112.

On the road, there are emergency phones at frequent regular intervals on freeways (autovías) and toll highways (autopistas). They are marked S.O.S.

Doctors and Dentists

English-speaking-doctor referrals (Conde de Aranda 7, Salamanca, PHONE: 91/435-1823).

Emergency Services

Ambulancias Cruz Roja (Red Cross Ambulances; PHONE: 91/522-2222) are on call 24 hours a day.

Ambulancias SAMUR (Red Cross Ambulances; PHONE: 092) are always available.

Hospitals

Hospital La Paz (Paseo de la Castellana 261, Chamartín, PHONE: 91/358-2600).

Hospital Ramon y Cajal (Carretera de Colmenar, Km 9, Chamartín, PHONE: 91/336-8000).

Hospital 12 de Octubre (Carretera de Andalucía, Km 5.4, Carabanchel, PHONE: 91/390-8000).

24-Hour Pharmacies

Emergency pharmacies are required to be open 24 hours a day on a rotating basis; pharmacy windows and the major daily newspapers list pharmacies open round-the-clock that day.

The Spanish are very tolerant of foreigners and their different ways, but you should always behave with courtesy. Be respectful when visiting churches: casual dress is fine if it's not gaudy or unkempt. Spaniards do object to men going bare-chested anywhere other than the beach or poolside and generally do not look kindly on public displays of drunkenness. When addressing Spaniards with whom you are not well acquainted, use the formal usted rather than the familiar tu.

Business Etiquette

Spanish office hours can be confusing to the uninitiated. Some offices stay open more or less continuously from 9 to 3, with a very short lunch break. Others open in the morning, break up the day with a long lunch break of two-three hours, then reopen at 4 or 5 until 7 or 8. Spaniards enjoy a certain notoriety for their lack of punctuality, but this has changed dramatically in recent years: you are expected to show up for meetings on time. Smart dress is the norm.

Spaniards in international fields tend to conduct business with foreigners in English. If you speak Spanish, address new colleagues with the formal usted and the corresponding verb conjugations, then follow the lead in switching to the familiar tu once a working relationship has been established.

Your hotel can arrange standard city tours in either English or Spanish; most offer Madrid Artístico (including the Royal Palace and the Prado), Madrid Panorámico (a basic half-day tour), Madrid de Noche (including a flamenco or nightclub show), and the Sunday-only Panorámico y Toros (a brief city overview followed by a bullfight).

The Plaza Mayor tourist office (Plaza Mayor 3, Centro PHONE: 91/588-2900) leads tours of Madrid's old quarters in English every Saturday morning, departing from the office at 10.

The Plaza Mayor office has a leaflet detailing the popular Spanish-language bus and walking tours run by the Ayuntamiento (City Hall; C. Mayor 69, Centro, PHONE: 91/588-2900) under the rubric "Descubre Madrid." The walking tours depart most mornings; theme options include "Medicine in Madrid," "Goya's Madrid," and "Commerce and Finance in Madrid." Tickets are available at the Patronato de Turismo (C. Mayor 69, Centro, PHONE: 91/588-2900).

For day trips to sites outside Madrid, such as Toledo, El Escorial, and Segovia, contact Julià Tours (Gran Vía 68, Centro, PHONE: 91/559-9605).

Trapsatur (PHONE: 91/302-6039) runs the Madrid Visión tourist bus, which makes a 1½-hour circuit of the city with recorded commentary in English. No reservation is needed; just show up at Gran Vía 32 or the front of the Prado Museum. Buses depart every 1½ hours beginning at 12:30 Monday-Saturday, 10:30 on Sunday. A round-trip ticket costs EUR8; a day pass, which allows you to get on and off at various attractions, is EUR13.

An identical hop-on, hop-off service on an open-top double decker is operated by Sol Pentours (Gran Vía 26, Centro, PHONE: 902/303903), whose daily 1½-hour tours leave every half hour from Plaza de España, in front of the Crowne Plaza Hotel, between 10 AM and 8 PM. The fare is EUR9.

Contact the Asociación Profesional de Informadores (C. Ferraz 82, Moncloa, PHONE: 91/542-1214 or 91/541-1221) to hire a personal guide.

Sunburn and sunstroke are real risks in summertime Spain. On the hottest sunny days, even those who are not normally bothered by strong sun should cover themselves up; carry sunblock lotion; drink plenty of fluids; and limit sun time for the first few days. If you require medical attention, ask your hotel's front desk for assistance or go to the nearest public Centro de Salud (day hospital); in serious cases, you'll be referred to the regional hospital. Medical care is good in Spain, but nursing is perfunctory, as relatives are expected to stop by and look after inpatients' needs.

Spain was recently documented as having the highest number of AIDS cases in Europe. Those applying for work permits will be asked for proof of HIV-negative status.

Food and Drink

The major health risk in Spain is diarrea, or traveler's diarrhea, caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. So watch what you eat. Avoid ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for several minutes, even when brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol, both of which can be purchased over the counter. In Spain, ask for un antidiarreico, which is the general term for antidiarrheal medicine; Fortasec is a well-known brand. You don't need a doctor's prescription to buy it. Drink plenty of purified water or tea -- chamomile (manzanilla) is a good folk remedy. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt (sal) and 4 tablespoons sugar (azúcar per quart of water).

Over-the-Counter Remedies

Over-the-counter remedies are available at any farmacia (pharmacy), recognizable by the large green crosses outside. Some will look familiar, such as aspirina (aspirin), while other medications are sold under various brand names. If you regularly take a nonprescription medicine, take a sample box or bottle with you, and the Spanish pharmacist will provide you with its local equivalent.

Although Spaniards exported their language to all Central and South America, you may be surprised to find that Spanish is not the principal language in all of Spain. The Basques speak Euskera; in Catalonia, you'll hear Catalan; in Galicia, Gallego; and in Valencia, Valenciano. Although almost everyone in these regions also speaks and understands Spanish, local radio and television stations may broadcast in these languages, and road signs may be printed (or spray-painted over) with the preferred regional language. Spanish is referred to as Castellano, or Castilian.

Fortunately, Spanish is fairly easy to pick up, and your efforts to speak it will be graciously received. Learn at least the following basic phrases: buenos días (hello -- until 2 PM), buenas tardes (good afternoon -- until 8 PM), buenas noches (hello -- after dark), por favor (please), gracias (thank you), adiós (good-bye), sí (yes), no (no), los servicios (the toilets), la cuenta (bill/check), habla inglés? (do you speak English?), no comprendo (I don't understand).

If your Spanish breaks down, you should have no trouble finding people who speak English in major cities and coastal resorts, but you won't necessarily be able to count on the bus driver or the passerby on the street. Those who do speak English may speak the British variety, so don't be surprised if you're told to queue (line up) or take the lift (elevator) to the loo (toilet). Many guided tours at museums and historic sites are in Spanish; ask about the language that will be spoken before you sign up.

Spain's postal system, the correos, does work, but delivery times can vary widely. An airmail letter to the United States may take anywhere from four days to two weeks; delivery to other destinations is equally unpredictable. Sending your letters by priority mail ("urgente") ensures speedier arrival.

Madrid's main post office, the Palacio de Comunicaciones (Plaza de Cibeles s/n, Centro, PHONE: 91/396-2443), is at the intersection of Paseo de Recoletos and Calle de Alcalá, just one long block north of the Prado Museum. It is open weekdays 8 AM-10 PM, Saturday 8:30-2, and Sunday 10-1.

Overnight Services

When time is of the essence, or when you're sending valuable items or documents overseas, you can use a courier (mensajero). The major international agencies, such as Federal Express and UPS, have representatives in Spain; the biggest Spanish courier service is Seur. MRW is another local courier that provides express delivery worldwide.

Major Services

DHL (PHONE: 902/122424).

Federal Express (PHONE: 900/100871).

MRW (PHONE: 900/300400).

Seur (PHONE: 902/101010).

UPS (PHONE: 900/102410).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR.75 up to 20 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom and other EU countries cost EUR.50 up to 20 grams. Letters within Spain are EUR.25. Postcards carry the same rates as letters. You can buy stamps at post offices and at licensed tobacco shops.

Receiving Mail

Because mail delivery in Spain can often be slow and unreliable, it's best to have your mail sent to American Express. Mail can also be held at a Spanish post office; have it addressed to Lista de Correos (the equivalent of Poste Restante) in a town you'll be visiting. Postal addresses should include the name of the province in parentheses, e.g., Marbella (Málaga).

In the United States, call American Express (PHONE: 800/528-4800) for a list of offices overseas.

Currency

All transactions are made in euros. Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents.

Taxes

Value-added tax, similar to sales tax, is called IVA in Spain (pronounced "ee-vah"; for impuesto sobre el valor añadido). It is levied on both products and services such as hotel rooms and restaurant meals. When in doubt about whether tax is included, ask, "Está incluido el IVA"?

The IVA rate for hotels and restaurants is 7%. Menus will generally say at the bottom whether tax is included (IVA incluido) or not (más 7% IVA).

Whereas food, pharmaceuticals, and household items are taxed at the lowest rate, most consumer goods are taxed at 16%. A number of shops, particularly large stores and boutiques in holiday resorts, participate in Global Refund (formerly Europe Tax-Free Shopping), a VAT refund service that makes getting your money back relatively hassle-free. On purchases of more than EUR90, you're entitled to a refund of the 16% tax. Ask for the Global Refund form (called a Shopping Cheque) in participating stores. You show your passport and fill out the form; the vendor then mails you the refund, or -- often more convenient -- you present your original receipt to the VAT office at the airport when you leave Spain. (In both Madrid and Barcelona, the office is near the duty-free shops. Save time for this process, as lines can be long.) Customs signs the original and refunds your money on the spot in cash (Euros) or sends it to the central office to process a credit-card refund. Credit-card refunds take a few weeks.

VAT Refunds

Global Refund (99 Main St., Suite 307, Nyack, NY 10960, PHONE: 800/566-9828, www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Waiters and other service staff expect to be tipped, and you can be sure that your contribution will be appreciated. On the other hand, if you experience bad or surly service, don't feel obligated to leave a tip.

Restaurant checks almost always include a service charge, which is not the same as a voluntary tip. Do not tip more than 10% of the bill, and leave less if you eat tapas or sandwiches at a bar -- just enough to round out the bill to the nearest EUR1. Tip cocktail servers EUR.30-EUR.50 a drink, depending on the bar.

Tip taxi drivers about 10% of the total fare, plus a supplement for a long ride or extra help with luggage. Note that rides from airports carry an official surcharge plus a small handling fee for each piece of luggage.

Tip hotel porters EUR.50 a bag, and the bearer of room service EUR.50. A doorman who calls a taxi for you gets EUR.50. If you stay in a hotel for more than two nights, tip the maid about EUR.50 per night. The concierge should receive a tip for any additional help he or she provides.

Tour guides should be tipped about EUR2, ushers in theaters or at bullfights EUR.15-EUR.20, barbers EUR.50, and women's hairdressers at least EUR1 for a wash and style. Rest-room attendants are tipped EUR.15.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Spain

Visitors from the United States, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom need a valid passport to enter Spain. Australians who wish to stay longer than a month also need a visa, available from the Spanish embassy in Canberra.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Spain has some public rest rooms, including, in larger cities, small coin-operated booths. Your best option, however, is to use the facilities in a bar or cafeteria, remembering that it's customary to order a drink in such cases. Gas stations have rest rooms, but you usually have to request the key to use them.

Petty crime is a huge problem in Spain's most popular tourist destinations. The most frequent offenses are pickpocketing (particularly in Madrid and Barcelona) and theft from cars (all over the country). Never, ever leave anything valuable in a parked car, no matter how friendly the area feels, how quickly you'll return, or how invisible the item seems once you lock it in the trunk. Thieves can spot rental cars from a mile away, and they work very efficiently. In airports, laptop computers are choice prey.

When walking the streets, particularly in large cities, carry your cash (and/or traveler's checks, ATM, or credit cards) in a money belt that is securely tied around your waist and hidden under your clothes. Men should carry wallets in the front pocket; women who need to carry purses should strap them across the front of their bodies. Leave the rest of your valuables in the safe at your hotel.

On the beach, in cafés and restaurants (particularly in the well-touristed areas), and in Internet centers, always keep your belongings on your lap or tied to your person in some way. Additionally, be cautious of any odd or unnecessary human contact, verbal or physical, whether it's a tap on the shoulder, someone spilling their drink at your table, and so on. Thieves often work in twos, so while one is attracting your attention, the other could be swiping your wallet.

Women in Spain

The traditional Spanish custom of the piropo (a shouted "compliment" to women walking down the street) is fast disappearing, though women traveling alone may still encounter it on occasion. The piropo is harmless, if annoying, and should simply be ignored.

The country code for Spain is 34. The area code for Madrid is 91.

All area codes begin with a 9. To call within Spain -- even locally -- dial the area code first. If you're dialing from outside the country, drop the 9. Numbers preceded by a 900 code are toll-free; those starting with a 6 are going to a cellular phone. Note that calls to cell phones are significantly more expensive than calls to regular phones.

Spain's phone system is perfectly efficient. Direct dialing is the norm. The main operator is Telefónica. Note that only cell phones conforming to the European GSM standard will work in Spain.

Directory & Operator Information

For general information in Spain, dial 1003. International operators, who generally speak English, are at 025.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44.

To make an international call yourself, dial 00, then the country code, then the area code and number.

International calls are awkward from coin-operated pay phones because of the many coins needed; and they can be expensive from hotels, as the hotel often adds a hefty surcharge. Your best bet is to use a public phone that accepts phone cards or go to the local telephone office, the locutorio: every town has one, and major cities have several. You converse in a quiet, private booth, and you're charged according to the meter. If the call ends up costing around EUR3 or more, you can usually pay with Visa or MasterCard.

Madrid's main telephone office is at Gran Vía 28. There's another at the main post office, and a third at Paseo Recoletos 43, just off Plaza Colón.

Long-Distance Calls

AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator can't comply, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

General Information

AT&T (PHONE: 800/222-0300).

MCI WorldCom (PHONE: 800/444-4444).

Sprint (PHONE: 800/793-1153).

Access Codes in Spain

AT&T (PHONE: 900/990011).

MCI (PHONE: 900/990014).

Sprint (PHONE: 900/990013).

Phone Cards

To use a newer pay phone you need a special phone card (tarjeta telefónica), which you can buy at any tobacco shop or newsstand, in various denominations. Some such phones also accept credit cards, but phone cards are more reliable.

Public Phones

You'll find pay phones in individual booths, in special telephone offices (locutorios), and in many bars and restaurants. Most have a digital readout so you can see your money ticking away. If you're calling with coins, you need at least EUR.15 to call locally, EUR.45 to call another province. Simply insert the coins and wait for a dial tone. (With older models, you line coins up in a groove on top of the dial and they drop down as needed.) Note that rates are reduced on the weekends and after 8 PM Monday-Friday.

Tourist Offices

In Madrid

Madrid's City Tourist Office (Plaza Mayor 3, PHONE: 91/588-1636) on the Plaza Mayor is good for little save a few pamphlets; it's open weekdays 10-8, Saturday 10-2, and Sunday 10-2.

Madrid has four regional tourist offices:

The best is at Duque de Medinaceli 2 (PHONE: 91/429-4951) (near the Westin Palace), open weekdays 9-7 and Saturday 9-1.

The Barajas Airport (PHONE: 91/305-8656) office is open weekdays 9-7 and Saturday 9:30-1:30.

The Chamartín train station (PHONE: 91/315-9976) office is open weekdays 8-8 and Saturday 9-1.

The remote Mercado de la Puerta de Toledo (Glorieta Puerta de Toledo, 3rd floor, Lavapiés, PHONE: 91/364-1876) office is open weekdays 9-7 and Saturday 9-1.

At Home

The Tourist Office of Spain (and its Web site www.tourspain.es) provides valuable practical information about visiting the country.

Chicago (Water Tower Pl., 845 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 915-East, Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 312/642-1992).

Los Angeles (8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, PHONE: 213/658-7188).

Miami (1221 Brickell Ave., Suite 1850, Miami, FL 33131, PHONE: 305/358-1992).

New York (666 5th Ave., 35th floor, New York, NY 10103, PHONE: 212/265-8822).

Canada (2 Bloor St. W, Suite 3402, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/961-3131).

United Kingdom (22-23 Manchester Sq., London W1M 5AP, U.K., PHONE: 0207/486-8077).

U.S. Government Advisories

U.S. Department of State (Overseas Citizens Services Office, Room 4811, 2201 C St. NW, Washington, DC 20520, PHONE: 202/647-5225 interactive hot line; 888/407-4747, www.travel.state.gov); enclose a business-size SASE.

May and October are the optimal times to come to Spain, as the weather is generally warm and dry. May gives you more hours of daylight, while October offers a chance to enjoy the harvest season, which is especially colorful in the wine regions.

In April you can see some of Spain's most spectacular fiestas, particularly Semana Santa (Holy Week); and by then the weather in southern Spain is warm enough to make sightseeing comfortable.

Spain is the number-one destination for European travelers, so if you want to avoid crowds, come before June or after September. Crowds and prices increase in the summer, especially along the coasts, as the Mediterranean is usually too cold for swimming the rest of the year, and beach season on the Atlantic coast is shorter still. Spaniards vacation in August, and their migration to the beach causes huge traffic jams on August 1 and 31. Major cities are relaxed and empty for the duration; small shops and some restaurants shut down for the entire month, but museums remain open.

Summers in Spain are hot: temperatures frequently hit 100°F (38°C), and air-conditioning is not widespread. Try to limit summer sightseeing to the morning hours. That said, warm summer nights are among Spain's quiet pleasures.

Winters in Spain are mild and rainy along the coasts. Snow is infrequent except in the mountains. You can ski from December to March in the resorts near Madrid.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Madrid:

January 36-48°F (2-9°C); February 36-52°F (2-11°C); March 41-59°F (5-15°C); April 45-64°F (7-18°C); May 50-70°F (10-21°C); June 59-81°F (15-27°C); July 63-88°F (17-31°C); August 63-86°F (17-30°C); September 57-77°F (14-25°C); October 50-66°F (10-19°C); November 41-55°F (5-13°C); December 36-48°F (2-9°C).

Holidays

Spain's national holidays include January 1, January 6 (Epiphany), Good Friday, Easter, May 1 (May Day), August 15 (Assumption), October 12 (National Day), November 1 (All Saints'), December 6 (Constitution), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), and December 25.

In addition, each region, city, and town has its own holidays honoring political events and patron saints. Madrid holidays include May 2 (Madrid Day), May 15 (St. Isidro), and November 9 (Almudena).

If a public holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, remember that many businesses also close on the nearest Monday or Friday for a long weekend called a puente (bridge). If a major holiday falls on a Sunday, businesses close on Monday.

After shifting east from its founding high ground at the Moorish ramparts next to the Catedral de la Almudena and the Palacio Real, Madrid and Spain's kilometer zero now radiates out from La Puerta del Sol, the transportation hub where all buses and subways converge. La Castellana and the Paseos de Recoletos and del Prado form the city's north-south spinal column, while El Parque del Retiro to the east and the Campo del Moro west of the Palacio Real form the east-west limits.

The old part of town, the part you will want to explore on foot, lies between these two parks, extending north to the Glorieta de Bilbao and south to the Glorieta de Embajadores. The pocket bounded to the north and south by Plaza Mayor and Puerto de Moros and, on the east and west, by Plaza de Oriente and Plaza de Santa Ana is the yoke of egg, the epicenter of old Madrid, while the Barrio de Salamanca to the north of the Retiro and Chamberí north of the Glorieta de Bilbao are late-19th-century grids of city blocks, though by no means without charm.

Red city buses run between 6 AM and midnight and cost EUR1 per ride. After midnight, buses called buyos ("night owls") run out to the suburbs from Plaza de Cibeles for the same price. Signs at every stop list all other stops by street name, but they're hard to comprehend if you don't know the city well. Pick up a free route map from EMT kiosks on the Plaza de Cibeles or the Puerta del Sol, where you can also buy a 10-ride ticket called a Metrobus (EUR5) that's valid for the metro. If you understand Spanish, call for information (tel. 91/406-8810).

Drivers will generally make change for anything up to a EUR10 note. If you've bought a 10-ride ticket, step just behind the driver and insert it in the ticket-punching machine until the mechanism rings.

Driving in Madrid is best avoided. Parking is nightmarish, traffic is heavy almost all the time, and the city's daredevil drivers can be frightening. August is an exception; the streets are then largely emptied by the mass exodus of Madrileños on vacation.

Car Rentals

Nearly every international agency is represented in Madrid, whether in town or at Barajas Airport. All agencies have a range of models, but virtually all cars in Spain have a manual transmission -- if you don't want a stick shift, reserve weeks in advance and specify automatic transmission, then call to reconfirm your automatic car before you leave for Spain.

Rates in Madrid begin at the equivalents of U.S. $65 a day and $300 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. Add to this a 16% tax on car rentals. Though you should always rent the size car that makes you feel safest, a small car, aside from saving you money, is prudent for the tiny roads and parking spaces in many parts of Spain.

In Madrid

Avis (PHONE: 902/135531).

Budget (PHONE: 901/201212).

Europcar (PHONE: 902/105030).

Hertz (PHONE: 902/402405).

National/Atesa (PHONE: 902/100101).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Emergency Services

The rental agencies Hertz and Avis have 24-hour breakdown service.

If you belong to an auto club (AAA, CAA, or AA), you can get emergency assistance from the Spanish counterpart, the Real Asociación de Carreteras (RACC) (José Abascal 10, Madrid, PHONE: 900/200093).

There are emergency telephones on all autopistas (toll highways), every 2 km (1 mi), with service stations generally found every 40 km (25 mi).

Gasoline

Gas stations are plentiful, and most of those on major routes and in big cities are open 24 hours. On less-traveled routes, gas stations are usually open 7 AM-11 PM. If a gas station is closed, it's required by law that it post the address and directions to the nearest open station.

Most stations are self-service, though prices are the same as those at full-service stations. You punch in the amount of gas you want (in euros, not in liters), unhook the nozzle, pump the gas, and then pay. At night, however, you must pay before you fill up. Most pumps offer a choice of gas, including leaded, unleaded, and diesel, so be careful to pick the right one for your car. All newer cars in Spain use gasolina sin plomo (unleaded gas), which is available in two grades, 95 and 98 octane. Super, regular 97-octane leaded gas, is gradually being phased out.

Requirements

Your own driver's license is valid in Spain, but consider getting an International Driver's Permit -- having one can save you problems with local authorities. Permits are available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association, or, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club.Anyone over 18 with a valid license can drive in Spain, though some agencies will not rent cars to drivers under 21.

Road Conditions

Spain's highway system includes some 6,000 km (3,600 mi) of beautifully maintained superhighways. Still, you'll find some stretches of major national highways that are only two lanes wide, where traffic often backs up behind slow, heavy trucks. Autopista tolls are steep but as a result are often less crowded than the free highways. If you spring for the autopistas, you'll find that many of the rest stops are nicely landscaped and have cafeterias with good food.

Drive with care on highways: the roads are shared by a mixture of local drivers, Moroccan immigrants traveling between North Africa and northern Europe, and non-Spanish vacationers, some of whom are accustomed to driving on the left side of the road. Be prepared, too, for heavy truck traffic on national routes, which, in the case of two-lane roads, can have you creeping along for hours.

Traffic jams are especially bad in and around Madrid. If possible, avoid the morning rush, which can last until noon, and the evening rush, which lasts from 7 to 9.

Rules of the Road

Spaniards drive on the right. Horns are banned in cities, but that doesn't keep people from blasting away. Children under 10 may not ride in the front seat, and seat belts are compulsory everywhere. Speed limits are 50 kph (31 mph) in cities, 100 kph (62 mph) on N roads, 120 kph (74 mph) on the autopista or autovía, and, unless otherwise signposted, 90 kph (56 mph) on other roads. Spanish highway police are particularly vigilant about speeding and illegal passing. Fines start at EUR90, and police are empowered to demand payment from non-Spanish drivers on the spot.

Although local drivers, especially in Madrid, will park their cars just about anywhere, you should park only in legal spots. Parking fines are steep, and your car might well be towed, resulting in fines, hassle, and wasted time.

On freeways (possibly because official driving-school manuals date before the invention of Spain's excellent network of freeways), do not expect motorists coming down the inside lane to move left and give way. The "merging" concept does not exist in Spain. Expect to come to a full stop at the red yield triangle at the end of the on-ramp and wait for a break in traffic.

Spanish highway engineers have discovered the British roundabout. Remember that the motorist in the roundabout has the right of way, even if you are the vehicle to the right (which is the normal rule of thumb elsewhere: vehicles coming from your right have right of way).

The metro is quick, frequent, and, at EUR1 no matter how far you travel, cheap. Even cheaper is the 10-ride Metrobus ticket, or billete de diez, which costs EUR5, is also valid for buses, and is accepted by automatic turnstiles (lines at ticket booths can be long). The system is open from 6 AM to 1:30 AM, though a few entrances close earlier. There are 10 metro lines, and system maps in stations detail their color-coded routes. Note the end station of the line you need, and follow signs to the correct corridor. Exits are marked "Salida."

Taxis are one of Madrid's few truly good deals. Meters start at EUR2 and add EUR.75 per kilometer (½ mi) thereafter (EUR1 per kilometer at night, on weekends and holidays, and beyond city limits). Numerous supplemental charges, however, mean that your total cost often bears little resemblance to what you see on the meter. Supplemental charges -- over and above your fare -- include EUR1 on Sundays and holidays and between 11 PM and 6 AM, EUR1 to sports stadiums or the bullring, and EUR3 (plus EUR.30 per suitcase) to or from the airport.

Taxi stands are numerous, and taxis are easily hailed in the street -- except when it rains, at which point they're exceedingly hard to come by. Available cabs display a "Libre" sign during the day, a green light at night. Spaniards do not tip cabbies, but if you're inspired, EUR.5 is about right for shorter rides; you can go as high as 10% for a trip to the airport. You can call a cab through Tele-Taxi, Radioteléfono Taxi, or Radio Taxi Gremial.

Taxis and Shuttles

Radio Taxi Gremial (PHONE: 91/447-5180).

Radioteléfono Taxi (PHONE: 91/547-8200).

Tele-Taxi (PHONE: 91/371-2131).