The main gateway to Mexico is Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez (MEX) (PHONE: 55/5571-3600) in Mexico City.

Puerto Vallarta's Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport (PVR) (Hwy to Tepic Km 7.5, Zona Aeropuerto, PHONE: 322/221-1298 or 322/221-1325) is 7½ km (4.5 mi) north of town, not far from the resorts at Marina Vallarta.

Mexico City is 4½ hours from New York, 4 hours from Chicago, 3½ hours from Los Angeles, and 12½ hours from London. Flying time from Mexico City on to Puerto Vallarta is 1½ hours.

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to airport and the current currency conversion rate. This tax is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

From the U.S.

AeroCalifornia (PHONE: 800/237-6225) to Mexico City, Guadalajara, Hermosillo, La Paz, Loreto, Los Cabos, Manzanillo, Mazatlán, Monterrey, Tijuana.

Aeroméxico (PHONE: 800/237-6639, www.aeromexico.com) to Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancún, Cozumel, Guadalajara, Guaymas/San Carlos, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, León/El Bajío, Los Cabos, Mérida, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta, and Veracruz.

Alaska Airlines (PHONE: 800/252-7522; 322/221-1353; 322/221-1350 in Puerto Vallarta, www.alaskaair.com) has direct flights to Puerto Vallarta from Los Angeles, Phoenix, and San Francisco.

America West (PHONE: 800/363-2597; 322/235-9292; 322/221-1025 in Puerto Vallarta, www.americawest.com) has direct flights from Phoenix.

American (PHONE: 322/221-1799 in Puerto Vallarta; 800/433-7300, www.aa.com) has daily nonstop flights from Dallas/Fort Worth to Puerto Vallarta.

Continental (PHONE: 322/221-2213; 322/221-1025 in Puerto Vallarta; 800/231-0856, www.continental.com) flies direct to Puerto Vallarta from Houston.

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141, www.delta.com) to Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancún, Guadalajara, Guaymas, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, León/El Bajío, Los Cabos, La Paz, Mérida, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta.

Mexicana (PHONE: 322/221-1266; 322/224-8900 in Puerto Vallarta; 800/531-7921, www.mexicana.com) has direct service from Chicago, Denver, and Mexico City to Puerto Vallarta.

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525, www.nwa.com) to Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancún, Cozumel, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos, and Puerto Vallarta.

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522, www.united.com) to Mexico City, Acapulco, Cancún, Guadalajara, León, Los Cabos, Puerto Vallarta.

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322, www.usairways.com) to Cancún, Cozumel.

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377, www.britishairways.com) has nonstop flights from London to Mexico City and Cancún.

Air France (PHONE: 0181/742-6600, www.airfrance.com), via Paris.

American (PHONE: 020/8572-5555; 0845/778-4789 outside London, www.aa.com), from London via Chicago, Dallas, or Miami.

Continental (PHONE: 01293/776-464, www.continental.com), from London via Houston and Newark, and from Birmingham and Manchester via Newark.

Delta (PHONE: 800/414-767, www.delta.com), via Atlanta.

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854, www.iberia.com), via Madrid.

KLM (PHONE: 08705/074-074, www.klm.com), via Amsterdam.

Lufthansa (PHONE: 0845/7737-747, www.lufthansa.com), via Frankfurt.

United (PHONE: 0845/8444-777, www.united.com), via Chicago or Washington, D.C.

Transfers Between the Airport & Town

By Shuttle

Volkswagen vans provide economical transportation from the airport to PV hotels.

Several cruise lines, including Carnival, Holland America Line, Princess Cruises, and Royal Caribbean Cruises, sail to Puerto Vallarta, most frequently during the winter months.

Puerto Vallarta's Central Camionero (Puerto Vallarta-Tepic Hwy. Km 9, Las Mojoneras, PHONE: 322/221-0739), or central bus station, is one km (½ mi) north of the airport is.

ETN (PHONE: 322/221-0550) has the most luxurious service to Guadalajara and Mexico City, with roomy, reclining seats.

Transportes del Pacífico (PHONE: 322/222-1015 or 322/221-0021) serves the region.

Elite (PHONE: 322/223-1117 or 322/221-0848), which incorporates three lines (Estrella Blanca, Tres Estrellas de Oro, and Norte de Sonora), has first-class service to Guadalajara, Aguascalientes, and Mexico City.

Primera Plus (PHONE: 322/221-0095) serves destinations throughout Mexico.

Puerto Vallarta is about 1,900 km (1,200 mi) south of Nogales, Arizona, at the U.S.-Mexico border, 354 km (220 mi) from Guadalajara, and 167 km (104 mi) from Tepic.

Banks & Offices

Banks are generally open weekdays 9-3. Many of the larger banks keep a few branches open Saturday from 9 or 10 to 2:30 and Sunday 10-1:30; however, the extended hours are often for deposits or check cashing only. Banks will give you cash advances in pesos (for a fee) if you have a major credit card. Government offices are usually open to the public 8-3; along with banks and most private offices, they're closed on national holidays.

Gas Stations

Gas stations are normally open 7 AM-10 PM. Those near major thoroughfares in big cities stay open 24 hours, including most holidays.

Museums & Sights

Along with theaters and most archaeological sights, museums are closed on Monday, with few exceptions. Admission to museums across the country is free on Sunday. Hours are normally 9 to 5 or 6.

Shops

Stores are generally open weekdays and Saturday from 9 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM; in resort areas, shops may also be open on Sunday. In some resort areas and small towns, shops may close for a two-hour lunch break -- about 2-4. Airport shops are open seven days a week.

Arriving in Mexico

Upon entering Mexico, you'll be given a baggage declaration form and asked to itemize what you're bringing into the country. You are allowed to bring in 2 liters of spirits or wine for personal use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; one movie camera and one regular camera and 12 rolls of film for each; and gift items not to exceed a total of $300. If you are driving across the U.S. border, gift items must not exceed $50. You are not allowed to bring firearms, meat, vegetables, plants, fruit, or flowers into the country.

For U.S. and Canadian travelers, electrical converters are not necessary because Mexico operates on the 60-cycle, 120-volt system; however, many Mexican outlets have not been updated to accommodate three-prong and polarized plugs (those with one larger prong), so to be safe bring an adapter.

All embassies are in Mexico City; Puerto Vallarta has U.S. and Canadian consulates, located in the same building on the main plaza. Embassies of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States are located in Mexico City. If you need assistance in an emergency, go to your consulate or the consular section of your country's embassy. Proof of identity and citizenship are generally required to enter.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5531-5225).

Canada

Canadian Embassy (Schiller 529, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5724-7900, www.canada.org.mx).

Canadian Consulate (Calle Zaragoza 160, Centro, Puerto Vallarta, PHONE: 322/222-5398).

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (José Luis LaGrange 103, 10th floor, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5283-9460).

United Kingdom

British Embassy (Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5207-2089).

United States

U.S. Embassy (Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, PHONE: 55/5080-2000, www.usembassy-mexico.gov/emenu.html).

U.S. Consulate (Calle Zaragoza 160, 2nd floor, Centro, Puerto Vallarta, PHONE: 322/222-0069).

Dial 060 in emergency situations.

Ambulance (PHONE: 322/222-1533).

Police (City Hall, Calles Morelos and Iturbide, Centro, PHONE: 322/222-0123 or 322/223-2500).

Red Cross (PHONE: 322/222-1533).

Once you're on Mexican soil, you're no longer protected by the laws of your native land. If you get into a scrape with the law, you can call the Citizens' Emergency Center (PHONE: 202/647-5225 weekdays 8:15 AM-10 PM EST; Sat. 9 AM-3 PM; 202/634-3600 after hours and Sun.) in the United States.

You can also call the 24-hour English-language hot line of the Procuraduría de Protección al Turista (Attorney General for the Protection of Tourists; PHONE: 55/5625-8153; 800/482-9832 from the U.S.) in Mexico City; it can provide immediate assistance as well as general, nonemergency guidance.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

Hospital (Plaza Neptuno, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/221-0023).

Pharmacy

Farmacia California (Francisco Villa 880, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/225-0635).

In the United States, being direct, efficient, and succinct is highly valued. But in Mexico, where communication tends to be more subtle, this style is often perceived as curt and aggressive. Mexicans are extremely polite, so losing your temper over delays or complaining loudly will brand you as rude and make people less inclined to help you. Remember that things move at a slow pace here and that there's no stigma attached to being late; accept this gracefully. Learning basic phrases in Spanish such as "please" and "thank you" will make a big difference in how people respond to you.

Business Etiquette

Personal relationships always come first in Mexico, so developing rapport and trust is essential. A handshake and personal greeting is appropriate along with a friendly inquiry about family, especially if you have met the family. In established business relationships, do not be surprised if you're greeted with a kiss on the cheek or a hug. Always be respectful toward colleagues in public and keep confrontations private. Meetings may or may not start on time, but you should be patient. When invited to dinner at the home of a client or associate, bring a gift and be sure to send a thank-you note afterward.

The standard, five-hour city tour is a good way to get the lay of the land, from Marina Vallarta and Gringo Gulch to the Río Cuale and Playa Mismaloya. In addition, almost everyone goes on at least one daytime or sunset cruise of the bay. Daytime cruises go to Los Arcos, Yelapa, Quimixto, and Playa Las Ánimas, and to Isla Marietas for whale-watching (during winter months), snorkeling, swimming, and lunch, departing from the Terminal Marítima at around 9 AM.

Local fishermen at Punta de Mita have formed the Sociedad Cooperativa Corral de Risco (Av. el Anclote, Manzana 17, No. 1, Nuevo Vallarta, PHONE: 322/291-6298), offering fishing, whale-watching, and snorkel trips around the Marieta islands at reasonable rates.

Intermar Vallarta (Paseo de la Marina s/n, Condominio Via Golf, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/221-0734) offers a dinner cruise to movie director John Huston's former home, on a private bay south of the city, with dancing on the return trip.

Vallarta Adventure (Av. de las Palmas at Nayarit, Nuevo Vallarta, PHONE: 322/221-0657) arranges transportation and tours to destinations such as San Sebastian del Oeste, an interesting old mining town high in the Sierra Madre, 62 km (38 mi) from Puerto Vallarta, as well as shopping and tequila-tasting expeditions outside Guadalajara.

Harris Tours (PHONE: 322/223-2972) offers city tours for about $16; tours to Yelapa run about $30; and tours to Las Ánimas and Quimixto cost approximately $40. It's worth the few extra dollars to go on a private tour (small groups) in a van rather than with a large group on a tour bus.

Natura Tours (Carr. Aeropuerto Km 5.5, Las Flores, 322/224-0410) offers numerous types of nature-oriented excursions, including bass and deep-sea fishing, hiking, scuba diving, and biking. Their subsidiary, Viva Tours, books cruises and air travel.

Divers' Alert

Do not fly within 24 hours of scuba diving.

Food & Drink

In Mexico the major health risk, known as turista, or traveler's diarrhea, is caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. Stay away from ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for at least 10 minutes (ask: quiero el agua hervida por diez minutos), even when you're brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide) or Pepto-Bismol (not as strong), both of which can be purchased over the counter; keep in mind, though, that these drugs can complicate more serious illnesses. Drink plenty of purified water or tea; chamomile tea (te de manzanilla) is a good folk remedy and it's readily available in restaurants throughout Mexico. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with Gatorade or a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

When ordering cold drinks at untouristed establishments, skip the ice: sin hielo. (You can usually identify ice made commercially from purified water by its uniform shape and the hole in the center.) Hotels with water-purification systems will post signs to that effect in the rooms. Tacos al pastor -- thin pork slices grilled on a spit and garnished with the usual cilantro, onions, and chili peppers -- are delicious but dangerous. It's also a good idea to pass up ceviche, raw fish cured in lemon juice -- a favorite appetizer, especially at seaside resorts. The Mexican Department of Health warns that marinating in lemon juice does not constitute the "cooking" that would make the shellfish safe to eat. Also, be wary of hamburgers sold from street stands, because you can never be certain what meat they are made with (horse meat is common).

Pests & Other Hazards

Caution is advised when venturing out in the Mexican sun. Sunbathers lulled by a slightly overcast sky or the sea breezes can be burned badly in just 20 minutes. To avoid overexposure, use strong sunscreens and avoid the peak sun hours of noon to 2 PM. Sunscreen, including many American brands, can be found in pharmacies, supermarkets, and resort gift shops.

In areas where malaria and dengue, both of which are carried by mosquitoes, are prevalent, use mosquito nets, wear clothing that covers the body, apply repellent containing DEET, and use spray for flying insects in living and sleeping areas. Also consider taking antimalarial pills if you are doing serious adventure activities in subtropical areas. There is no vaccine to combat dengue, which if you are reasonably healthy is usually not serious (only dengue hemorrhagic fever is potentially fatal).

Spanish is the official language of Mexico, although Indian languages are spoken by approximately 8% of the population and some of those people speak no Spanish at all. Basic English is widely understood by most people employed in tourism, less so in the less-developed areas. At the very least, shopkeepers will know the numbers for bargaining purposes.

As in most other foreign countries, knowing the mother tongue has a way of opening doors, so learn some Spanish words and phrases. Mexicans welcome even the most halting attempts to use the language.

Latin American Spanish differs from Castilian Spanish -- that most widely taught outside Mexico -- not only in pronunciation and grammar but also in vocabulary. Words or phrases that are harmless or everyday in one country can offend in another. Unless you are lucky enough to be briefed on these nuances by a native coach, the only way to learn is by trial and error.

The Mexican postal system is notoriously slow and unreliable; never send packages or expect to receive them, as they may be stolen. (For emergencies, use a courier service or the express-mail service, with insurance). If you're an American Express cardholder, your best bet is to have packages sent to the nearest AmEx office.

Post offices (oficinas de correos) are found in even the smallest villages. International postal service is all airmail, but even so your letter will take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks to arrive. Service within Mexico can be equally slow.

Mexican states have postal abbreviations of two or more letters. To send mail to Puerto Vallarta, use the following Mexican state postal code for Jalisco: Jal.

It costs 4.80 pesos (about 50¢) to send a postcard or letter weighing under 20 grams to the United States or Canada; it's 5.90 pesos (about 60¢) to Europe or Australia.

Receiving Mail

To receive mail in Mexico, you can have it sent to your hotel or use poste restante at the post office. In the latter case, the address must include the words "a/c Lista de Correos" (general delivery), followed by the city, state, postal code, and country. To use this service, you must first register with the post office at which you wish to receive your mail. The post office posts and updates daily a list of names for whom mail has been received. Holders of American Express cards or traveler's checks can have mail sent to them in care of the local American Express office. For a list of offices worldwide, write for the Traveler's Companion from American Express (Box 678, Canal Street Station, New York, NY 10013, www.americanexpress.com).

Local Services

For sending and receiving mail and packages in Puerto Vallarta, go to Mail Boxes Etc. (Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio, Edificio Andrea Mar Local 7, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/224-9434), which also offers fax and e-mail services.

The Net House (Ignacio L. Vallarta 232, Col. E. Zapata, PHONE: 322/222-6953), a cyber café, has an air-conditioned computer room and serves coffee drinks as well. It is open from dawn to the wee hours, and has computers with English-language keyboards.

ATMs

ATMs (cajeros automáticos) are becoming commonplace in more and more Mexican towns and cities. Cirrus and Plus are the most commonly found networks in Mexico. Before you leave home, ask what the transaction fee will be for withdrawing money in Mexico. (It's usually $3 a pop.) Many Mexican ATMs cannot accept personal identification numbers that have more than four digits; if yours is longer, ask your bank about changing your PIN (número de clave) before you leave home, and keep in mind that processing such a change often takes a few weeks.

For cash advances, plan to use Visa or MasterCard, as many Mexican ATMs don't accept American Express. The ATMs at Banamex, one of the oldest nationwide banks, tend to be the most reliable. Bancomer is another bank with many ATM locations, but they usually provide only cash advances. The newer Serfín banks have reliable ATMs that accept credit cards as well as Plus and Cirrus cards.

Currency

Mexican currency comes in denominations of 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 500-, and 1,000-peso bills. Coins come in denominations of 20, 10, 5, and 1 pesos and 50, 20, 10, and 5 centavos. Many of the coins and bills are very similar, so check carefully.

Check with your bank or the financial pages of your local newspaper for current exchange rates. For quick estimates of how much something costs in U.S. dollar terms, divide prices given in pesos by 10. For example, 50 pesos would be about $5.

Exchanging Money

ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, but ATM currency-exchange rates are the best of all because they're based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. And if you take out a fair amount of cash per withdrawal, the transaction fee becomes less of a strike against the exchange rate (in percentage terms). However, most ATMs allow only up to $300 a transaction. Banks and casas de cambio (money-exchange houses) have the second-best exchange rates. The difference from one place to another is usually only a few centavos.

Most banks change money on weekdays only until 1 (though they stay open until 5), although casas de cambio generally stay open until 6 and often operate on weekends. Bank rates are regulated by the federal government and are therefore invariable, whereas casas de cambio have slightly more variable rates. Some hotels also exchange money, but for providing you with this convenience they help themselves to a bigger commission than banks.

You can do well at most airport exchange booths, but not necessarily at rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores.

When changing money, count your bills before leaving the bank or casa de cambio, and don't accept any partially torn or taped-together notes; they won't be accepted anywhere. Also, many shop and restaurant owners are unable to make change for large bills. Enough of these encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (small bills) when you exchange money.

Taxes

Mexico has a value-added tax -- called IVA (impuesto de valor agregado) -- of 15%, which is occasionally (and illegally) waived for cash purchases. Other taxes and charges apply for phone calls made from your hotel room.

Many states charge a 2% hotel tax, with the revenue slated for tourism promotion. Service charges and meals generally are not included in the hotel rates.

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies according to airport and the current conversion rate. This tax is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Tipping

When tipping in Mexico, remember that the minimum wage is the equivalent of $3 a day and that the vast majority of workers in the tourist industry live barely above the poverty line. However, there are Mexicans who think in dollars and know, for example, that in the United States porters are tipped about $2 a bag. Many of them expect the peso equivalent from foreigners and may complain if they feel they deserve more -- you and your conscience must decide. Following are some guidelines. Naturally, larger tips are always welcome.

Porters and bellhops at airports and at moderate and inexpensive hotels: $1 per bag.

Porters at expensive hotels: $2 per person.

Maids: $1 per night (all hotels).

Waiters: 10%-15% of the bill, depending on service (make sure a 10%-15% service charge hasn't already been added to the bill, although this practice is more common in resorts).

Taxi drivers: Tipping is necessary only if the driver helps with your bags -- 5 pesos to 10 pesos should be sufficient, depending on the extent of the help.

Tour guides and drivers: at least $1 per half day, minimum.

Gas-station attendants: 3 pesos to 5 pesos; if they check the oil, tires, etc., tip more.

Parking attendants and theater ushers: 5 pesos to 10 pesos. Some restaurants and theaters charge for valet-parking service; it's still customary to tip the attendant at least 10 pesos.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, to be carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Mexico

For stays of up to 180 days, Americans must prove citizenship through either a valid passport, certified copy of a birth certificate, or voter-registration card (the last two must be accompanied by a government-issued photo ID). Minors traveling with one parent need notarized permission from the absent parent. For stays of more than 180 days, all U.S. citizens, even infants, need a valid passport to enter Mexico. Minors also need parental permission.

Canadians need only proof of citizenship to enter Mexico for stays of up to six months.

U.K. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Mexico for stays of up to three months.

Mexico has instituted a $17 visitor fee that applies to all visitors except those entering by sea at Mexican ports who stay less than 72 hours and those entering by land who do not stray past the 26-30-km (16-18-mi) checkpoint into the country's interior. For visitors arriving by air, the fee, which covers visits of 72 hours to 30 days, is usually tacked on to the price of the airline ticket. You must pay the fee each time you extend your 30-day tourist visa.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Expect to find clean flushing toilets, toilet tissue, soap, and running water in the major tourist destinations. Other places should have simple but clean toilets. The more primitive rest rooms, usually in public areas with little tourist traffic, will have no paper, no water at times, and no toilet seats. Some public places, like bus stations, charge one or two pesos to use the facility, but toilet paper is included in the fee. Keep tissues with you, just in case.

The U.S. State Department has warned of "critical levels" of crime against tourists in Mexico, noting an increase in the level of violence of the crimes committed and what appear to be a significant incidence of sexual assaults against women. Reports have also indicated that uniformed police officers on occasion perpetrate nonviolent crimes, sometimes stopping cars and seeking money.

Many foreigners are aware of Mexico's reputation for corruption. The patronage system is a well-entrenched part of Mexican politics and industry, and workers in the public sector -- notably policemen and customs officials -- are notoriously underpaid. Everyone has heard some horror story about highway assaults, pickpocketing, bribes, or foreigners languishing in Mexican jails. These reports of crimes apply in large part to Mexico City and more-remote areas of Oaxaca and Chiapas. So far, crime is not such a problem in places such as San Miguel de Allende), Puerto Vallarta, or Cancún. Pickpocketing is usually the biggest concern.

Use common sense everywhere. Do not pick up hitchhikers or hitchhike yourself. Also, try to use luxury buses (rather than second- or third-class vehicles), which use the safer toll roads -- and try to travel only during the day. For the time being, women should not venture alone onto uncrowded beaches, and everyone should avoid urges to get away from it all on your own (even as a couple) to go hiking in remote national parks.

Take only registered hotel taxis or have a hotel concierge call a sitio (stationed cab) -- do not hail taxis on the street under any circumstances. Use ATMs during the day and in big, enclosed commercial areas. Avoid the glass-enclosed street variety of banks where you may be more vulnerable to thieves who force you to withdraw money for them; abduction is also possible. This cannot be stressed strongly enough.

Bear in mind that reporting a crime to the police is often a frustrating experience unless you speak excellent Spanish and have a great deal of patience. If you are the victim of an assault, contact your local consular agent or the consular section of your country's embassy in Mexico City, especially if you need medical attention. For more-detailed information on travel safety, consult the Mexican Ministry of Tourism's Web site at www.safemexico.com.

Women in Mexico

Don't wear a money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a purse, choose one with a zipper and a thick strap that you can drape across your body; adjust the length so that the purse sits in front of you at or above hip level. Store only enough money in the purse to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch in public.

Women traveling alone are likely to be subjected to piropos (catcalls). To avoid this, don't wear tight or provocative clothes or enter street bars or cantinas alone; in some very conservative rural areas, even sleeveless shirts or Bermuda shorts may seem inappropriate to the locals. Your best strategy is always to ignore the offender and not speak to him. If the situation seems to be getting out of hand, don't hesitate to ask someone for help. Piropos are one thing, but more aggressive harassment of women is not considered acceptable behavior. If you express outrage, you should find no shortage of willing defenders.

The country code for Mexico is 52. The area code for Puerto Vallarta is 322. When calling a Mexico number from abroad, dial the country code and then all of the numbers listed for the entry.

Many phones, especially in the better city hotels, have Touch-Tone (digital) circuitry. If you think you'll need to access an automated phone system or voice mail in the United States or elsewhere and you don't know what phone service will be available, it's a good idea to take along a Touch-Tone simulator (you can buy one for about $17 at most electronics stores).

Directory & Operator Information

Directory assistance is 040 nationwide. For international assistance, dial 00 first for an international operator and most likely you'll get one who speaks English; tell the operator in what city, state, and country you require directory assistance, and he or she will connect you with directory assistance there.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; for New Zealand, 64; and for the United Kingdom, 44. To make an international call, dial 00 before the country code, area code, and number.

Long-Distance Calls

In recent years, Mexico has totally overhauled its area codes. Except for the three largest cities (Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara), towns and cities of all sizes now have three-digit area codes (LADAs) and seven-digit phone numbers. (However, many numbers in brochures and other literature continue to be written in the old style.)

Only 10-digit calls can be connected throughout the country. Two-digit regional codes now precede the old eight-digit numbers for Mexico City (55), Guadalajara (33), and Monterrey (81). To call Mexico City from within Mexico, you must still dial 01, then the new regional code (55) followed by the old eight-digit number. From outside the country, you now dial the country code (52) followed by the 10-digit number. In other areas in Mexico, the old eight-digit numbers drop their first number and are preceded by the new three-digit regional codes, such as 322 for Puerto Vallarta.

] For local or long-distance calls, one option is to find a caseta de larga distancia, a telephone service usually operated out of a store such as a papelería (stationery store), pharmacy, restaurant, or other small business; look for the phone symbol on the door. Casetas may cost more to use than pay phones, but you have a better chance of immediate success. To make a direct long-distance call, tell the person on duty the number you'd like to call, and she or he will give you a rate and dial for you. Rates seem to vary widely, so shop around. Sometimes you can make collect calls from casetas, and sometimes you cannot, depending on the individual operator and possibly your degree of visible desperation. Casetas will generally charge 50¢-$1.50 to place a collect call (some charge by the minute); it's usually better to call por cobrar (collect) from a pay phone.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/288-2872 or 800/112-2020).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/021-8000 or 800/674-7000).

Public Phones

In most parts of the country now, pay phones accept prepaid cards, called Ladatel (a Spanish acronym for "long-distance direct dialing") cards, sold in 30-, 50- or 100-peso denominations at newsstands or pharmacies. Many pay phones in Mexico accept only these cards; coin-only pay phones are usually broken. Still other phones have two unmarked slots, one for a Ladatel card and the other for a credit card. These are primarily for Mexican bank cards, but some accept Visa or MasterCard, though not U.S. telephone credit cards.

To use a Ladatel card, insert it in the appropriate slot, dial 001 (for calls to the United States) or 01 (for calls in Mexico) and the area code and number you're trying to reach. Local calls may also be placed with the card. Credit is deleted from the card as you use it, and your balance is displayed on a small screen on the phone.

Toll-free numbers in Mexico start with an 800 prefix. To reach them, you need to dial 01 before the number. We list Mexico-only toll-free numbers as follows: 01-800/12-345 (numbers can also have six or seven digits). The 800 numbers listed simply 800/123-4567 work in the U.S. only.

Tourist Offices

In Puerto Vallarta

The Municipal Tourist Office (Independencia 123, Centro, PHONE: 322/223-2500 Ext. 230 to 232), open weekdays 9-5, is on the Plaza Principal.

The State Tourism Office (Plaza Marina shopping center, Local 144 & 146, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/222-0242 or 322/221-2676) is open weekdays 9-7, Saturday 9-1.

At Home

The Mexico Tourism Board has many locations:

In the United States (PHONE: 800/446-3942 nationwide; 21 East 63rd St., 3rd floor, New York, NY 10021, PHONE: 212/821-0314, FAX: 212/821-0367; 300 North Michigan Ave., 4th floor, Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/606-9252, FAX: 312/606-9012; 2401 West 6th St., 5th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 213/351-2075, FAX: 213/351-2074; 4507 San Jacinto, Suite 308, Houston, TX 77096, PHONE: 713/772-2581, FAX: 713/772-6058; 1200 NW 78th Ave., Suite 203, Coral Gables, FL 33126, PHONE: 305/718-4095, FAX: 305/718-4098).

In Canada (1 Place Ville Marie, Suite 1931, Montréal, Québec H3B 2C3, PHONE: 514/871-1052, FAX: 514/871-3825; 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/925-0704, FAX: 416/925-6061; 999 W. Hastings St., Suite 110, Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 2W2, PHONE: 604/669-2845, FAX: 604/669-3498).

In the United Kingdom (42 Hertford St., London W1Y 7TF, PHONE: 020/7488-9392, FAX: 020/7265-0705).

In Mexico (Presidente Masaryk 172, D.F. 11550, PHONE: 55/5250-0123 or 800/903-9200).

October through May are generally the driest months in Mexico; during the peak of the rainy season (June-September), it may rain for a few hours daily. But the sun often shines for the rest of the day, and the reduced off-season rates may well compensate for the reduced tanning time.

Mexican resorts -- where the vast majority of tourists go -- are at their most crowded and therefore most expensive from December through the second week after Easter. Another peak time is during July and August, school-vacation months, when Mexican families crowd hotels. To avoid the masses, the highest prices, and the worst rains, consider visiting Mexico during October, November, April, or May, just not during the traditional holiday periods -- Christmas through January 6, Three Kings Day, Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter), the week after Easter, and summertime school vacations -- nor over the extended national holiday weekends called puentes (bridges). Hotel rates at the beach resorts can fall as much as 30% in the shoulder season, 50% in the off-season.

Mexico's coasts and low-lying sections of the interior are often very hot if not actually tropical, with temperatures ranging from 17°C to 31°C (63°F to 88°F) in winter and well above 32°C (90°F) in summer.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Puerto Vallarta:

January 72-88°F (22-31°C); February 72-88°F (22-31°C); March 72-88°F (22-31°C); April 73-90°F (23-32°C); May 75-90°F (24-32°C); June 77-90°F (25-32°C); July 77-90°F (25-32°C); August 77-91°F (25-33°C); September 75-90°F (24-32°C); October 75-90°F (24-32°C); November 73-90°F (23-32°C); December 71-88°F (22-31°C).

Holidays

Banks and government offices close on January 1, February 5 (Day of the Constitution), March 21 (Benito Juárez's birthday), May 1 (Labor Day), September 16 (Independence Day), November 20 (Day of the Revolution), and December 25. They may also close on unofficial holidays, such as the Day of the Dead (November 2), and during Holy Week (the days leading to Easter Sunday). Government offices usually have reduced hours and staff from Christmas through New Year's Day.

City buses serve Puerto Vallarta's downtown, the northern hotel zone, and the southern beaches. Bus stops -- marked by blue-and-white signs -- are located every two or three blocks along the highway (Carretera Aeropuerto) and in town. Buses to Playa Mismaloya and Boca de Tomatlán run about every 15 minutes from the corner of Avenida Insurgentes and Basilio Badillo, downtown.

Driving in Puerto Vallarta can be very unpleasant. From December through April -- peak tourist season -- traffic clogs the small cobblestone streets. During the rainy season, from July through October, the streets become flooded and the city's steep hills are muddy and slippery. Parking is nearly nonexistent.

For day trips and local sightseeing, consider engaging a car and driver (who often acts as a guide) for a day; this can be a more economical, hassle-free way to travel than renting a car and driving yourself. Hotel desks will know which taxi companies to call, and you can negotiate a price with the driver.

Car Rentals

During the high season, rentals start at $50 per day, including mileage; always ask about special promotions. All the car-rental agencies below have desks at the airport; some have offices along the highway.

In Puerto Vallarta

Alamo (Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio 1851, Centro, PHONE: 322/221-3030) offers free pickup.

Prices at Budget (Av. Paseo de las Palmas 1680, Col. Olimpica, PHONE: 322/222-2980) range from $50 to $78 a day.

Dollar (Av. Paseo de las Palmas 1728, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/223-1354) has branches at the Krystal and Buenaventura hotels.

National (Carretera Aeropuerto Km 1.5, Marina Vallarta, PHONE: 322/222-0515) is another well-known international chain.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Gasoline

Pemex franchises all gas stations in Mexico. They are located at most road junctions and in cities and towns, sell gas by the liter rather than the gallon, and usually do not accept U.S. or Canadian credit cards or dollars. Fuel prices vary from region to region; they tend to be on the lower end in Mexico City and surroundings and near the U.S. border, increasing the farther you get from these areas. Overall, prices run slightly to moderately higher than in the United States. Premium unleaded gas (called Magna Premio) and regular unleaded gas (Magna Sin) are available nationwide, but it's still a good idea to fill up whenever you can. Fuel quality is generally lower than that in the United States and Europe. Vehicles with fuel-injected engines are likely to have problems after driving extended distances.

Gas-station attendants pump the gas for you and may also wash your windshield and check your oil and tire air pressure. A 5- or 10-peso tip is customary, depending on the number of services rendered. Keep a close eye on the gas meter to make sure the attendant is starting it at "0" and that you're charged the correct price.

Insurance

You must carry Mexican auto insurance, which you can purchase near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could well be jailed -- whether it was your fault or not -- unless you have insurance. Guilty until proven innocent is part of the country's Code Napoléon. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance to cover you for the duration of your trip. Insurance is sold by the day, and if your trip turns out to be shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a refund for the unused time if you apply after you leave the country.

For more insurance information, contact:

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (223 Via de San Ysidro, San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 619/428-3583).

Oscar Padilla (120 Willow Rd., San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 800/258-8600).

Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (2009 S. 10th St., McAllen, TX 78503, PHONE: 800/222-0158 or 956/686-0711).

Requirements

In Mexico your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the U.S. and Canadian automobile associations, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. These international permits are universally recognized, and having one in your wallet may save you a problem with the local authorities.

You must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a birth certificate or passport; a credit card (AE, DC, MC, or V); a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit-card owner must be one and the same -- that is, if your spouse's name is on the title of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed, leased, rental, or company cars, you must bring a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company.

When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay a $20 charge on your credit card, you'll receive a car permit and a sticker to put on your vehicle, all valid for up to six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border prior to their expiration date; otherwise you could incur high fines.

One alternative to going through this hassle when you cross is to have your paperwork done in advance at a branch of Sanborn's Mexican Insurance; look in the Yellow Pages for an office in almost every town on the U.S.-Mexico border. You'll still have to go through some of the procedures at the border, but all your paperwork will be in order, and Sanborn's express window will ensure that you get through relatively quickly. There's a $10 charge for this service. The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face.

If you bring the car into the country you must be in the vehicle at all times when it is driven. You cannot lend it to another person.

Road Conditions

In rural areas, roads are quite poor: use caution, especially during the rainy season, when rock slides and potholes are a problem. Driving in Mexico's central highlands may also necessitate adjustments to your carburetor. Generally, driving times are longer than for comparable distances in the United States. Topes (speed bumps) are also common; it's best to slow down when approaching a village.

Common sense goes a long way: if you have a long distance to cover, start early and fill up on gas; don't let your tank get below half full. Allow extra time for unforeseen occurrences as well as for the trucks that seem to be everywhere. By day, be alert to animals, especially cattle and dogs.

Avoid rush hour (7-9 AM and 6-8 PM) and when schools let out (2-3 PM). Signage is not always adequate in Mexico, so travel with a companion and a good map. Always lock your car, and never leave valuable items in the body of the car (the trunk will suffice for daytime outings, but don't pack it in front of prying eyes).

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you should receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. Read this booklet in order to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your country.

Illegally parked cars are either towed or have wheel blocks placed on the tires, which can require a trip to the traffic-police headquarters for payment of a fine. When in doubt, park in a lot instead of on the street; your car will probably be safer there anyway.

If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in daytime, slow down: it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. One-way streets are common. One-way traffic is indicated by an arrow; two-way, by a double-pointed arrow. A circle with a diagonal line superimposed on the letter E (for estacionamiento) means "no parking." Other road signs follow the now-widespread system of international symbols, a copy of which will usually be provided when you rent a car in Mexico.

In Mexico City, watch out for "Hoy no Circula" notices. Because of pollution, all cars in the city without a Verification "0" rating (usually those built before 1994) are prohibited from driving one day a week (two days a week during high-alert periods). Posted signs show certain letters or numbers paired with each day of the week, indicating that vehicles with those letters or numbers in their license plates are not allowed to drive on the corresponding day. Foreigners are not exempt. Cars with license plate numbers ending in 5 or 6 are prohibited on Monday; 7 or 8 on Tuesday; 3 or 4 on Wednesday; 1 or 2 on Thursday; and 9 or 0 on Friday.

Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. A few of the newer toll roads allow 110 kph (68 mph). In cities and small towns, observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph).

Seat belts are now required by law throughout Mexico.

Safety on the Road

Never drive at night in remote and rural areas. Banditos are one concern, but so are potholes, free-roaming animals, cars with no working lights, road-hogging trucks, and difficulty in getting assistance. It's best to use toll roads whenever possible; although costly, they are much safer.

Some of the biggest hassles on the road might be from police who pull you over for supposedly breaking the law. Remember to be polite -- displays of anger will only make matters worse -- and be aware that a police officer might be pulling you over for something you didn't do. Although efforts are being made to fight corruption, it's still a fact of life in Mexico, and the $5 it costs to get your license back is definitely supplementary income for the officer who pulled you over with no intention of taking you down to police headquarters.

If you are stopped for speeding, the officer is supposed to take your license and hold it until you pay the fine at the local police station. But the officer will always prefer a mordida (small bribe) to wasting his time at the police station. If you decide to dispute a charge that seems preposterous, do so with a smile, and tell the officer that you would like to talk to the police captain when you get to the station. The officer usually will let you go rather than go to the station.

When walking, look both ways for oncoming traffic when crossing streets, even with the light. Although pedestrians have the right of way by law, drivers disregard it. And more often than not, if a driver hits a pedestrian, he'll drive away as fast as he can without stopping, to avoid jail. Many Mexican drivers do not carry auto insurance, so you'll have to shoulder your own medical expenses.

The ride from the north-side hotels to downtown costs about $10; within downtown, a ride is $2; from Marina Vallarta to downtown, about $4. Be sure to agree on a fare before embarking.

Government-certified taxis have a license with a photo of the driver and a taxi number prominently displayed, a meter, and either an orange or green stripe at the bottom of the license plate. For reasons of security, it's always best to call a sitio (taxi stand); do not flag a cab on the street. Tipping is not necessary unless the driver helps you with your bags, in which case a few pesos are appropriate.