Mexico City's airport, Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez (MEX) (PHONE: 55/5571-3600, www.asa.gob.mx), is the main gateway to the country. Many American carriers fly direct to Mexico City, and most Mexican carriers have flights here from elsewhere in the country.

The newest wing of Mexico City's Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez is a high-tech elongation of the airport's east end. It has four banks and seven currency exchanges (casas de cambio); Cirrus and Plus ATMs that disburse pesos; places to rent cellular phones; an Internet room; and a food court, pharmacy, bookstore, and pricey shops. A multilevel parking garage charges $2 an hour for short-term parking.

Porters and free carts are available in the baggage-retrieval areas. Banks and currency exchanges rotate their schedules to provide 24-hour service. You can also use your ATM card to take pesos directly out of your U.S. account at ATMs (called cajero automático locally) here and throughout the city -- and you'll get an even better exchange rate. Just remember that your home bank may charge $3 or more per transaction. The Mexico City Tourist Office, Mexican Ministry of Tourism (Sectur), and the Hotel Association have stands in the arrival areas that can provide information and find visitors a room for the night.

Mexico City is 4½ hours from New York, 4 hours from Chicago, and 3½ hours from Los Angeles. From London, Mexico City is a 12½-hour flight.

Carriers

AeroCalifornia (PHONE: 800/237-6225).

Aeroméxico (PHONE: 800/237-6639; 55/5133-4000 in Mexico, www.aeromexico.com).

America West (PHONE: 800/235-9292, www.americawest.com).

American (PHONE: 800/433-7300, www.aa.com).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856, www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141, www.delta.com).

Mexicana (PHONE: 800/531-7921; 55/5448-0990 in Mexico, www.mexicana.com).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525, www.nwa.com).

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522, www.united.com).

From the U.K.

British Airways (PHONE: 0845/773-3377, www.britishairways.com) has nonstop flights from London to Mexico City.

Air France (PHONE: 0181/742-6600, www.airfrance.com), via Paris.

American (PHONE: 020/8572-5555; 0845/778-4789 outside London, www.aa.com), from London via Chicago, Dallas, or Miami.

Continental (PHONE: 01293/776-464, www.continental.com), from London via Houston and Newark, and from Birmingham and Manchester via Newark.

Delta (PHONE: 800/414-767, www.delta.com), via Atlanta.

Iberia (PHONE: 0845/601-2854, www.iberia.com), via Madrid.

KLM (PHONE: 08705/074-074, www.klm.com), via Amsterdam.

Lufthansa (PHONE: 0845/7737-747, www.lufthansa.com), via Frankfurt.

United (PHONE: 0845/8444-777, www.united.com), via Chicago or Washington, D.C.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Taxi

To get a taxi into the city, head to the official ticket windows,marked Transportación Terrestre (ground transportation), just before customs, or those to your left immediately afterward. Taxis are priced by zones; figure out your zone from the big map on the wall (if you're in the central part of the city, you'll probably need Zone 4 or 5, which will cost $12-$15). A 10% tip is customary for airport drivers if they help with baggage. To get to the taxi rank, head left from the arrivals area and out of the building. Under no circumstance take a pirata taxi (unofficial drivers offering their services). If you don't have a ticket in your hand, they will attempt to charge you more for the same taxi ride. The yellow-and-white airport taxis are safe. Avoid the others.

Reaching the city center takes 15 minutes to an hour depending on the traffic. If you're leaving from the city center in the morning, going against traffic, you will reach the airport quickly. In the evening, allow at least an hour, count on more time in the rainy season.

If you're traveling to the airport, your taxi driver will ask which terminal you want: "Nacional o Internacional?" This question refers to your airline, not your destination. Be careful: some flights have code-sharing between a Mexican and a foreign airline, and check-in could be in either terminal. (Note that you will not lose more than 10 minutes if you arrive at the wrong terminal, since both share the same building.)

Greyhound (PHONE: 55/5669-1287, 55/5669-0986, or 800/010-0600, www.greyhound.com.mx) buses make connections to major U.S. border cities, from which Mexican bus lines depart throughout the day. Reserved seating is available on first-class coaches, which are comfortable but not nearly as plush as the intercity buses. If you plan stopovers en route, make sure in advance that your ticket is written up accordingly. In Mexico, platform announcements are in Spanish only. Reserved-seat tickets can be purchased at Mexico City travel agencies.

Within Mexico, buses are the most popular way to travel: you can board ultramodern, superdeluxe motor coaches that show U.S. movies and serve soft drinks and coffee. ETN (Enlaces Terrestres Nacionales; PHONE: 55/5577-6529, 55/5271-1262, or 55/5277-6529) serves cities to the west and northwest, such as Guadalajara, Morelia, Querétaro, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, and Toluca.

ADO (PHONE: 55/5133-2424, 55/5133-2444, or 800/702-8000) buses depart southeast to such places as Puebla, Oaxaca, Veracruz, Mérida, and Cancún.

Various other classes of intercity bus tickets can be purchased at most travel agencies in the city (there are many agencies in the Zona Rosa). Buses depart from four outlying stations (terminales de autobuses), where tickets can also be purchased:

Central de Autobuses del Norte (Av. Cién Metros 4907, Col. Magdalena de la Salina, PHONE: 55/5587-1552), going north.

Central de Autobuses del Sur (Tasqueña 1320, Tasqueña, PHONE: 55/5689-9745 or 55/5689-4987), going south.

Terminal de Autobuses del Oriente (Ignacio Zaragoza 200, Col. 7 de Julio, PHONE: 55/5762-5977), going east.

Terminal de Autobuses del Poniente (also known as "Observatorio," (Río Tacubaya and Sur 122, Col. Real del Monte, PHONE: 55/5271-4519), going west.

Major arteries into Mexico City include Highway 57 to the north, which starts at Laredo, Texas, and goes through Monterrey and Querétaro. Highway 95 comes in from Cuernavaca to the south, and Highway 190D from Puebla to the east. Highway 15 via Toluca is the main western route.

Banks and Offices

Banks are generally open weekdays 9-5 or 7. Many of the larger banks keep a few branches open Saturday from 9 or 10 to 2:30 and Sunday 10-1:30; however, the extended hours are often for deposits or check cashing only. Banks will give you cash advances in pesos (for a fee) if you have a major credit card. Government offices are usually open to the public 8-3; along with banks and most private offices, they're closed on national holidays.

Gas Stations

Gas stations are normally open 7 AM-10 PM. Those near major thoroughfares in big cities stay open 24 hours, including most holidays.

Museums and Sights

Along with theaters and most archaeological sights, museums are closed on Monday, with few exceptions. Museums across the country have free admission on Sunday. Hours are normally 9 to 5 or 6.

Shops

Stores are generally open weekdays and Saturday from 9 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM; in resort areas, shops may also be open on Sunday. In some resort areas and small towns, shops may close for a two-hour lunch break -- about 2-4. Airport shops are open seven days a week.

Arriving in Mexico

Upon entering Mexico, you'll be given a baggage declaration form and asked to itemize what you're bringing into the country. You are allowed to bring in 2 liters of spirits or wine for personal use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; one movie camera and one regular camera and 12 rolls of film for each; and gift items not to exceed a total of $300. If driving across the U.S. border, gift items must not exceed $50. You are not allowed to bring firearms, meat, vegetables, plants, fruit, or flowers into the country.

For U.S. and Canadian travelers, electrical converters are not necessary because Mexico operates on the 60-cycle, 120-volt system; however, many Mexican outlets have not been updated to accommodate three-prong and polarized plugs (those with one larger prong), so to be safe bring an adapter.

Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States all have embassies in Mexico City. If you need assistance in an emergency, you can go to your country's embassy. Proof of identity and citizenship are generally required to enter.

Australia

Australian Embassy (Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco, PHONE: 55/5531-5225).

Canada

The Canadian Embassy (Schiller 529, Col. Polanco, PHONE: 55/5724-7900, www.canada.org.mx) is open weekdays 9-1 and 2-5 and is closed for Canadian and Mexican holidays.

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy (José Luis LaGrange 103, 10th floor, Col. Polanco, PHONE: 55/5283-9460).

United Kingdom

The British Embassy (Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc, PHONE: 55/5207-2089, www.embajadabritanica.com.mx) is open weekdays 8:30-3:30.

United States

The U.S. Embassy (Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Cuauhtémoc, PHONE: 55/5080-2000, www.usembassy-mexico.gov/emenu.html) is open weekdays 9-5, but is closed for American and Mexican holidays; however, there's always a duty officer to take emergency calls on holidays and after closing hours. The embassy keeps a list of English-speaking local doctors on hand if you need to consult one.

Dial 080 for police, Red Cross, ambulance, fire, or other emergency situations.

If you are not able to reach an English-speaking operator, call the Sectur hot line (55/5212-0260).

For missing persons or cars call Locatel (55/5658-1111).

You're not protected by the laws of your native land once you're on Mexican soil. If you get into a scrape with the law, you can call the Citizens' Emergency Center (PHONE: 202/647-5225 weekdays 8:15 AM-10 PM EST; Sat. 9 AM-3 PM; 202/634-3600 after hours and Sun.) in the United States.

You can also call the 24-hour English-language hot line of the Procuraduría de Protección al Turista (Attorney General for the Protection of Tourists; PHONE: 55/5625-8153; 800/482-9832 from the U.S.) in Mexico City; it can provide immediate assistance as well as general, nonemergency guidance.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

You'll find English-speaking staff at both the American British Cowdray Hospital and Hospital Español:

American British Cowdray Hospital (Calle Sur 136-116, corner of Observatorio, Col. las Américas, PHONE: 55/5230-8161 for emergencies; 55/5230-8000 switchboard).

Hospital Español (Ejército Nacional 613, Col. Granada, PHONE: 55/5203-3735).

In the United States, being direct, efficient, and succinct is highly valued. But in Mexico, where communication tends to be more subtle, this style is often perceived as curt and aggressive. Mexicans are extremely polite, so losing your temper over delays or complaining loudly will get you branded as rude and make people less inclined to help you. Remember that things move at a slow pace here and that there's no stigma attached to being late; accept this gracefully. Learning basic phrases in Spanish such as "please" and "thank you" will make a big difference in how people respond to you.

Business Etiquette

Personal relationships always come first here, so developing rapport and trust is essential. A handshake and personal greeting is appropriate along with a friendly inquiry about family, especially if you have met the family. In established business relationships, do not be surprised if you're greeted with a kiss on the cheek or a hug. Always be respectful toward colleagues in public and keep confrontations private. Meetings may or may not start on time, but you should be patient. When invited to dinner at the home of a client or associate, bring a gift and be sure to send a thank-you note afterward.

Various travel agencies run tourist-friendly, English-guided tours of Mexico City and surrounding areas. The basic city tour ($39) lasts eight hours and takes in the Zócalo, Palacio Nacional, Catedral Metropolitana, and Bosque de Chapultepec. A four-hour pyramid tour costs around $23 and covers the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe and the major ruins at Teotihuacán.

The tours described below can be booked through:

American Express (Paseo de la Reforma 234, Col. Ciudad de los Deportes, PHONE: 55/5326-3521).

Grey Line Tours (Londres 166, Zona Rosa, PHONE: 55/5208-1163, www.greyline.com.mx).

Mexico Travel Advisors (MTA; Génova 30, Col. Juárez, PHONE: 55/5525-7520 or 55/5525-7534).

Most agencies offer some version of each tour.

Bullring Tour

There are trips to the bullring on Sunday with a guide who will explain the finer points of this spectacle. This three-hour afternoon tour can usually be combined with the Ballet Folklórico-Xochimilco trip.

Cultural Tour

A seven-hour cultural tour is run Sunday morning only and usually includes a performance of the folkloric dances at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, a gondola ride in the canals of Xochimilco's floating gardens, and a visit to the modern campus of the National University.

Nightlife Tour

Nightlife tours are among the most popular tours of Mexico City. The best are scheduled to last five hours and include transfers by private car rather than bus; dinner at an elegant restaurant (frequently Bellini or at the Del Lago); a drink and a show at the Plaza Garibaldi, where mariachis play; and a nightcap at one of the cantinas around the square, which features Mexican folk dancers.

Trolley Tour

A good way to see the historic downtown -- if you know some Spanish -- is on Tren Turístico's (Av. Juárez 66, at Revillagigedo, Col. Centro, PHONE: 55/5512-1013) charming replicas of 20-passenger trolleys from the 1920s. The 50-minute narrated tour ($3.50) includes the Zócalo, Colegio de San Idelfonso, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Plaza Manuel Tolsá (location of the Palacio de Minería and Museo Nacional de Arte), Plaza de la Santa Veracruz (Museo Franz Mayer), and the Palacio de Iturbide. Trolleys depart hourly 10-5 daily from the train's offices in front of Alameda Park.

Air Pollution

Air pollution in Mexico City can pose a health risk. The sheer number of cars and industries in the capital, thermal inversions, and the inability to process sewage have all contributed to the high levels of lead, carbon monoxide, and other pollutants in Mexico City's atmosphere. Though the long-term effects are not known, children, the elderly, and those with respiratory problems should avoid jogging, outdoor sports, and being outdoors more than necessary on days of high smog alerts. If you have heart problems, keep in mind that Mexico City is, at 7,556 ft, the highest metropolis on the North American continent. This compounded with the smog may pose a serious health risk, so check with your doctor before planning a trip.

The Australian, British, Canadian, New Zealand, and U.S. embassies in Mexico City can provide lists of English-speaking doctors.

Food and Drink

In Mexico the major health risk, known as turista, or traveler's diarrhea, is caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. So watch what you eat. Stay away from ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for at least 10 minutes (ask: quiero el agua hervida por diez minutos), even when you're brushing your teeth. Mild cases may respond to Imodium (known generically as loperamide or Lomotil) or Pepto-Bismol (not as strong), both of which can be purchased over the counter; keep in mind, though, that these drugs can complicate more serious illnesses. Drink plenty of purified water or tea; chamomile tea (te de manzanilla) is a good folk remedy and it's readily available in restaurants throughout Mexico. In severe cases, rehydrate yourself with Gatorade or a salt-sugar solution (½ teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons sugar per quart of water).

When ordering cold drinks at untouristed establishments, skip the ice: sin hielo. (You can usually identify ice made commercially from purified water by its uniform shape and the hole in the center.) Hotels with water-purification systems will post signs to that effect in the rooms. Tacos al pastor -- thin pork slices grilled on a spit and garnished with the usual cilantro, onions, and chili peppers -- are delicious but dangerous. It's also a good idea to pass up ceviche, raw fish cured in lemon juice -- a favorite appetizer, especially at seaside resorts. The Mexican Department of Health warns that marinating in lemon juice does not constitute the "cooking" that would make the shellfish safe to eat. Also, be wary of hamburgers sold from street stands, because you can never be certain what meat they are made with (horse meat is common).

Sunburn

Caution is advised when venturing out in the Mexican sun. Sunbathers lulled by a slightly overcast sky or the sea breezes can be burned badly in just 20 minutes. To avoid overexposure, use strong sunscreens and avoid the peak sun hours of noon to 2 PM. Sunscreen, including many American brands, can be found in pharmacies, supermarkets, and resort gift shops.

Spanish is the official language of Mexico, although Indian languages are spoken by approximately 8% of the population and some of those people speak no Spanish at all. Basic English is widely understood by most people employed in tourism, less so in the less-developed areas. At the very least, shopkeepers will know the numbers for bargaining purposes.

As in most other foreign countries, knowing the mother tongue has a way of opening doors, so learn some Spanish words and phrases. Mexicans welcome even the most halting attempts to use the language.

Castilian Spanish -- which is different from Latin American Spanish not only in pronunciation and grammar but also in vocabulary -- is most widely taught outside Mexico. Words or phrases that are harmless or everyday in one country can offend in another. Unless you are lucky enough to be briefed on these nuances by a native coach, the only way to learn is by trial and error.

The Mexican postal system is notoriously slow and unreliable; never send packages or expect to receive them, as they may be stolen. (For emergencies, use a courier service or the express-mail service, with insurance). If you're an American Express cardholder, your best bet is to have packages sent to the nearest AmEx office.

Post offices (oficinas de correos) are found in even the smallest villages. International postal service is all airmail, but even so your letter will take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks to arrive. Service within Mexico can be equally slow.

Mexican states have postal abbreviations of two or more letters. To send mail to Mexico, use the following Mexican state postal codes: Baja California: B.C.; Baja California Sur: B.C.S.; Campeche: Camp.; Chiapas: Chis.; Chihuahua: Chih.; Distrito Federal (Mexico City): D.F.; Guanajuato: Gto.; Guerrero: Gro.; Jalisco: Jal.; Estado de Mexico: Edo. de Mex.; Michoacán: Mich.; Morelos: Mor.; Nuevo Leon: N.I.; Oaxaca: Oax.; Querétaro: Qro.; Quintana Roo: Q. Roo; Sinaloa: Sin.; Sonora:Son.; Tabasco: Tab.; Veracruz: Ver.; Yucatán: Yuc.; Zacatecas: Zac.

Overnight Services

Federal Express, DHL, and United Parcel Service are available in major cities and many resort areas, but Federal Express is the most widespread. They offer office or hotel pickup with 24-hour advance notice and are very reliable. From Mexico City to anywhere in the United States, the minimum charge is around $23 for a package weighing about one pound. Starting prices are higher for Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the U.K., and deliveries take longer.

In Mexico City:

DHL (PHONE: 55/5345-7000).

Federal Express (PHONE: 55/5228-9904).

United Parcel Service (PHONE: 55/5228-7900).

Postal Rates

It costs 4.80 pesos (about 50¢) to send a postcard or letter weighing under 20 grams to the United States or Canada; it's 5.90 pesos (about 60¢) to Europe or Australia.

Receiving Mail

To receive mail in Mexico, you can have it sent to your hotel or use poste restante at the post office. In the latter case, the address must include the words "a/c Lista de Correos" (general delivery), followed by the city, state, postal code, and country. To use this service, you must first register with the post office at which you wish to receive your mail. The post office posts and updates daily a list of names for whom mail has been received. Holders of American Express cards or traveler's checks can have mail sent to them in care of the local American Express office. For a list of offices worldwide, write for the Traveler's Companion from American Express (Box 678, Canal Street Station, New York, NY 10013, www.americanexpress.com).

Mexico City is one of the most expensive places to visit in Mexico. Average costs vary, although less than in the past because of an increase in business travelers. A stay in one of Mexico City's top hotels can cost more than $200, but you can get away with a tab of $45 for two at what was once an expensive restaurant.

ATMs

ATMs (cajeros automáticos) are becoming commonplace in Mexico. Cirrus and Plus are the most commonly found networks in Mexico. Before you leave home, ask what the transaction fee will be for withdrawing money in Mexico. (It's usually $3 a pop.) Many Mexican ATMs cannot accept personal identification numbers that have more than four digits; if yours is longer, ask your bank about changing your PIN (número de clave) before you leave home, and keep in mind that processing such a change often takes a few weeks.

If your transaction still cannot be completed -- an annoyingly commonoccurrence -- chances are that the computer lines are busy or that the machine has run out of money or is being serviced.

For cash advances, plan to use Visa or MasterCard, as many Mexican ATMs don't accept American Express. The ATMs at Banamex, one of the oldest nationwide banks, tend to be the most reliable. Bancomer is another bank with many ATM locations, but they usually provide only cash advances. The newer Serfín banks have reliable ATMs that accept credit cards as well as Plus and Cirrus cards.

Safety is an issue at ATMs in Mexico City. Avoid the glass-enclosed street variety of banks where you may be more vulnerable to thieves who force you to withdraw money for them; abduction is also possible. This cannot be stressed strongly enough.

Currency

Mexican currency comes in denominations of 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 500-, and 1,000-peso bills. Coins come in denominations of 20, 10, 5, and 1 pesos and 50, 20, 10, and 5 centavos. Many of the coins and bills are very similar, so check carefully.

Many tourist shops and market vendors as well as virtually all hotel service personnel also accept dollars.

Exchanging Money

ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, but ATM currency-exchange rates are the best of all because they're based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. And if you take out a fair amount of cash per withdrawal, the transaction fee becomes less of a strike against the exchange rate (in percentage terms). However, most ATMs allow only up to $300 a transaction. Banks and casas de cambio (money-exchange houses) have the second-best exchange rates. The difference from one place to another is usually only a few centavos.

Most banks change money on weekdays only until 1 (though they stay open until 5), although casas de cambio generally stay open until 6 and often operate on weekends. Bank rates are regulated by the federal government and are therefore invariable, whereas casas de cambio have slightly more variable rates. Some hotels also exchange money, but for providing you with this convenience they help themselves to a bigger commission than banks.

You can do well at most airport exchange booths, but not necessarily at rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores.

When changing money, count your bills before leaving the bank or casa de cambio, and don't accept any partially torn or taped-together notes; they won't be accepted anywhere. Also, many shop and restaurant owners are unable to make change for large bills. Enough of these encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (small bills) when you exchange money.

Taxes

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18-US$25 or the pesoequivalent for international and domestic flights. The fee varies accordingto airport and the currency conversion rate; for example, in Cancún thetax is US$20-US$25. This tax is usually included in the price of yourticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are notaccepted at the airport as payment for this.

Many states are charging a 2% tax on accommodations, the funds from which are being used for tourism promotion.

Mexico has a value-added tax of 15%, called IVA (impuesto de valor agregado), which is occasionally (and illegally) waived for cash purchases. Other taxes and charges apply for phone calls made from your hotel room.

Tipping

When tipping in Mexico, remember that the minimum wage is the equivalent of $3 a day and that the vast majority of workers in the tourist industry live barely above the poverty line. However, there are Mexicans who think in dollars and know, for example, that in the United States porters are tipped about $2 a bag. Many of them expect the peso equivalent from foreigners and may complain if they feel they deserve more -- you and your conscience must decide. Following are some guidelines. Naturally, larger tips are always welcome.

Porters and bellhops at airports and at moderate and inexpensive hotels: $1 per bag.

Porters at expensive hotels: $2 per person.

Maids: $1 per night (all hotels).

Waiters: 10%-15% of the bill, depending on service (make sure a 10%-15% service charge hasn't already been added to the bill, although this practice is more common in resorts).

Taxi drivers: Tipping is necessary only if the driver helps with your bags -- 5 pesos to 10 pesos should be sufficient, depending on the extent of the help.

Tour guides and drivers: at least $1 per half day, minimum.

Gas-station attendants: 3 pesos to 5 pesos; if they check the oil, tires, etc., tip more.

Parking attendants and theater ushers: 5 pesos to 10 pesos. Some restaurants and theaters charge for valet-parking service; it's still customary to tip the attendant at least 10 pesos.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering Mexico

For stays of up to 180 days, Americans must prove citizenship through either a valid passport, certified copy of a birth certificate, or voter-registration card (the last two must be accompanied by a government-issue photo ID). Minors traveling with one parent need notarized permission from the absent parent. For stays of more than 180 days, all U.S. citizens, even infants, need a valid passport to enter Mexico. Minors also need parental permission.

Canadians need only proof of citizenship to enter Mexico for stays of up to six months.

U.K. citizens need only a valid passport to enter Mexico for stays of up to three months.

Mexico has instituted a $17 visitor fee that applies to all visitors -- except those entering by sea at Mexican ports who stay less than 72 hours, and those entering by land who do not stray past the 26- to 30-km (16- to 18-mi) checkpoint into the country's interior. For visitors arriving by air, the fee, which covers visits of more than 72 hours and up to 30 days, is usually tacked on to the airline-ticket price. You must pay the fee each time you extend your 30-day tourist visa.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410, www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674, calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; www.travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Expect to find clean flushing toilets, toilet tissue, soap, and running water in the major tourist destinations. Other places should have simple but clean toilets. The more primitive rest rooms, usually in public areas with little tourist traffic, will have no paper, no water at times, and no toilet seats. Some public places, like bus stations, charge one or two pesos to use the facility, but toilet paper is included in the fee. Keep tissues with you, just in case.

The U.S. State Department has warned of "critical levels" of crime against tourists in Mexico, noting an increase in the level of violence of the crimes committed and what appeared to be a significant incidence of sexual assaults against women. Reports indicated that uniformed police officers were on occasion perpetrating the nonviolent crimes, sometimes stopping cars and seeking money.

The largest increase in crime has taken place in Mexico City, where the age-old problem of pickpocketing has been overshadowed by robberies at gunpoint. Another development has been abductions and robberies in taxicabs hailed from the street (as opposed to hired from a hotel or taxi stand).

Many foreigners are aware of Mexico's reputation for corruption. The patronage system is a well-entrenched part of Mexican politics and industry, and workers in the public sector -- notably policemen and customs officials -- are notoriously underpaid. Everyone has heard some horror story about highway assaults, pickpocketing, bribes, or foreigners languishing in Mexican jails. These reports of crimes apply in large part to Mexico City. So far, crime is not such a problem in the rest of the country.

Use common sense everywhere, but exercise particular caution in Mexico City. Do not pick up hitchhikers or hitchhike yourself. Also, try to use luxury buses (rather than second- or third-class vehicles), which use the safer toll roads -- and it's best to travel only during the day.

In Mexico City, don't wear any valuables, including watches, and try not to act too much like a tourist. Wear a money belt, put valuables in hotel safes, avoid driving on untraveled streets and roads at night, and carry your own baggage whenever possible, unless in a luxury hotel. Also, you won't need your passport in the city, so leave it in the hotel safe -- replacing it would be more trouble than you need.

Take only registered hotel taxis or have a hotel concierge call a sitio (stationed cab) -- do not hail taxis on the street under any circumstances. Use ATMs during the day and in big, enclosed commercial areas. Avoid the glass-enclosed street variety of banks where you may be more vulnerable to thieves who force you to withdraw money for them; abduction is also possible. This cannot be stressed strongly enough.

Bear in mind that reporting a crime to the police is often a frustrating experience unless you speak excellent Spanish and have a great deal of patience. If you are the victim of an assault, contact your local consular agent or the consular section of your country's embassy in Mexico City, especially if you need medical attention.

Women in Mexico

Don't wear a money belt or a waist pack, both of which peg you as a tourist. If you carry a purse, choose one with a zipper and a thick strap that you can drape across your body; adjust the length so that the purse sits in front of you at or above hip level. Store only enough money in the purse to cover casual spending. Distribute the rest of your cash and any valuables (including credit cards and your passport) between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Do not reach for the money pouch once in public.

Women traveling alone are likely to be subjected to piropos (catcalls). To avoid this, don't wear tight or provocative clothes or enter street bars or cantinas alone; in some very conservative rural areas, even sleeveless shirts or Bermuda shorts may seem inappropriate to the locals. Your best strategy is always to ignore the offender, do not speak to him, and go on about your business. If the situation seems to be getting out of hand, don't hesitate to ask someone for help. Piropos are one thing, but more aggressive harassment of women is not considered acceptable behavior. If you express outrage, you should find no shortage of willing defenders.

Many phones, especially in the better city hotels, have Touch-Tone (digital) circuitry. If you think you'll need to access an automated phone system or voice mail in the United States or elsewhere and you don't know what phone service will be available, it's a good idea to take along a Touch-Tone simulator (you can buy one for about $17 at most electronics stores).

To reach Mexico City from elsewhere in Mexico, dial 01 plus the 10-digit number; from abroad, dial 52 plus the 10-digit number.

Directory & Operator Information

Directory assistance is 040 nationwide. For international assistance, dial 00 first for an international operator and most likely you'll get one who speaks English; tell the operator in what city, state, and country you require directory assistance, and he or she will connect you with directory assistance there.

International Calls

To make an international call, dial 00 before the country code, area code, and number. When calling home, the country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1, the U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64, and South Africa 27.

The country code for Mexico is 52. To reach Mexico City from abroad, dial 52 plus the 10-digit number.

Long-Distance Calls

Mexico uses a 10-digit dialing plan. Only 10-digit calls can be connected throughout the country. To call Mexico City from within Mexico, you must dial 01, then the 10-digit number.

For local or long-distance calls, one option is to find a caseta de larga distancia, a telephone service usually operated out of a store such as a papelería (stationery store), pharmacy, restaurant, or other small business; look for the phone symbol on the door. Casetas may cost more to use than pay phones, but you have a better chance of immediate success. To make a direct long-distance call, tell the person on duty the number you'd like to call, and she or he will give you a rate and dial for you. Rates seem to vary widely, so shop around. Sometimes you can make collect calls from casetas, and sometimes you cannot, depending on the individual operator and possibly your degree of visible desperation. Casetas will generally charge 50¢-$1.50 to place a collect call (some charge by the minute); it's usually better to call por cobrar (collect) from a pay phone.

Access codes for long-distance carriers include:

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 800/288-2872 or 800/112-2020).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 800/021-8000 or 800/674-7000).

Public Phones

In most parts of the country, pay phones accept prepaid cards, called Ladatel cards, sold in 30-, 50- or 100-peso denominations at newsstands or pharmacies. Many pay phones in Mexico accept only these cards; coin-only pay phones are usually broken. Still other phones have two unmarked slots, one for a Ladatel (a Spanish acronym for "long-distance direct dialing") card and the other for a credit card. These are primarily for Mexican bank cards, but some accept Visa or MasterCard, though not U.S. telephone credit cards.

To use a Ladatel card, simply insert it in the appropriate slot, dial 001 (for calls to the States) or 01 (for calls in Mexico) and the area code and number you're trying to reach. Local calls may also be placed with the card. Credit is deleted from the card as you use it, and your balance is displayed on a small screen on the phone.

Toll-free numbers in Mexico start with an 800 prefix. To reach them, you need to dial 01 before the number. The 800 numbers listed simply 800/123-4567 work in the U.S. only.

Tourist Offices

In Mexico City

The Mexico City Tourist Office (Departamento de Turismo del Distrito Federal, or DDF; Amberes 54, at the corner of Londres, Zona Rosa, PHONE: 55/5525-9380, www.mexicocity.gob.mx) maintains information booths at both the international and domestic arrival areas at the airport. In town, visit the city's tourism module in the Zona Rosa. This office also gives information by phone with its Infotur service 9-7 daily. Multilingual operators are available and have access to an extensive data bank.

The Secretariat of Tourism (Sectur; Presidente Masarik 172, Col. Polanco, PHONE: 55/5250-0123; 55/5250-0493; 55/5250-0027; 55/5250-0589; 55/5250-0151; 55/5250-0292; 55/5250-0741; 55/5212-0260; 800/903-9200 outside Mexico City; 800/482-9832 outside Mexico City, www.mexico-travel.com) operates a 24-hour multilingual hot line that provides information on both Mexico City and the entire country. If lines are busy, keep trying. Outside Mexico City, call the Sectur Tourist Information Center in Colonia Polanco toll-free weekdays 8-8.

At Home

The Mexico Tourism Board has many international offices:

In the United States (21 East 63rd St., 3rd floor, New York, NY 10021, PHONE: 212/821-0314, FAX: 212/821-0367; 300 North Michigan Ave., 4th floor, Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/606-9252, FAX: 312/606-9012; 2401 West 6th St., 5th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 213/351-2075, FAX: 213/351-2074; 4507 San Jacinto, Suite 308, Houston, TX 77096, PHONE: 713/772-2581, FAX: 713/772-6058; 1200 NW 78th Ave., Suite 203, Coral Gables, FL 33126, PHONE: 305/718-4095, FAX: 305/718-4098).

In Canada: (1 Place Ville Marie, Suite 1931, Montréal, Québec H3B 2C3, PHONE: 514/871-1052, FAX: 514/871-3825; 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2, PHONE: 416/925-0704, FAX: 416/925-6061; 999 W. Hastings St., Suite 110, Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 2W2, PHONE: 604/669-2845, FAX: 604/669-3498).

In the United Kingdom (42 Hertford St., London W1Y 7TF, PHONE: 020/7488-9392, FAX: 020/7265-0705).

and in Mexico (Presidente Masaryk 172, D.F. 11550, PHONE: 55/5250-0123 or 800/903-9200).

Mexico is sufficiently large and geographically diverse enough that you can find a place to visit any time of year. October through May are generally the driest months; during the peak of the rainy season (June-September), it may rain for a few hours daily. But the sun often shines for the rest of the day, and the reduced off-season rates may well compensate for the reduced tanning time.

From December through the second week after Easter, the Mexican resorts -- where the vast majority of tourists go -- are the most crowded and therefore the most expensive. This also holds true for July and August, school-vacation months, when Mexican families crowd hotels. To avoid the masses, the highest prices, and the worst rains, consider visiting Mexico during October, November, April, or May, just not during the traditional holiday periods. Hotel rates at the beach resorts can fall as much as 30% in the shoulder season, 50% in the off-season.

Mexicans travel during traditional holiday periods -- Christmas through January 6, Three Kings Day, Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter), the week after Easter -- and summertime school vacations as well as over extended national holiday weekends, called puentes (bridges). Festivals play a big role in Mexican national life. If you plan to travel during a major national event, reserveboth lodgings and transportation well in advance.

In general, the high central plateau on which Mexico Cityis located is springlike year-round.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Mexico City:

January 44-70°F (6-21°C); February 45-73°F (7-23°C); March 48-79°F (9-26°C); April 50-81°F (10-27°C); May 54-79°F (12-26°C); June 54-77°F (12-25°C); July 52-73°F (11-23°C); August 54-73°F (12-23°C); September 52-72°F (11-22°C); October 50-72°F (10-22°C); November 46-72°F (8-22°C); December 45-70°F (7-21°C).

Holidays

Banks and government offices close on January 1, February 5 (Day of the Constitution), March 21 (Benito Juárez's birthday), May 1 (Labor Day), September 16 (Independence Day), November 20 (Day of the Revolution), and December 25. They may also close on unofficial holidays, such as Day of the Dead (November 2), and during Holy Week (the days leading to Easter Sunday). Government offices usually have reduced hours and staff from Christmas through New Year's Day.

You can get around Mexico City in the popular public buses, the subway, taxis, or the idiosyncratic peseros -- minibuses that follow designated routes through the city. The subway is cheap, fast, and efficient, and routes are easy to understand. Along with taxis (which are more expensive), the subway is the best option for those who don't speak much Spanish. Buses and peseros are something of a nightmare if you don't speak the language. Note that peseros can also be unsafe.

Addresses

The Mexican method of naming streets can be exasperatingly arbitrary, so be patient when searching for street addresses. Streets in the centers of many colonial cities (those built by the Spanish) are laid out in a grid surrounding the zócalo (main square) and often change names on different sides of the square. Other streets simply acquire a new name after a certain number of blocks. Numbered streets are usually designated norte/sur (north/south) or oriente/poniente (east/west) on either side of a central avenue. (Three of these are abbreviated: Nte., Ote., and Pte. Sur is spelled out.)

In many cities, streets that have proper names, such as Avenida Benito Juárez, change names when they cross some other street -- and only a map will show where one begins and the other ends.

Blocks are often labeled numerically, according to distance from a chosen starting point, as in "la Calle de Pachuca," "2a Calle de Pachuca," etc.

Many Mexican addresses have "s/n" for sin número (no number) after the street name. This is common in small towns where there aren't many buildings on a block. Similarly, many hotels give their address as "Km 30 Carr. a Querétaro," which indicates that the property is at the 30th kilometer on the carretera (main highway) to Querétaro.

In Mexico City, most addresses include their colonia (neighborhood), which is abbreviated as Col. Other abbreviations used in addresses include: Av. (avenida, or avenue); Calz. (calzada, or road); Fracc. (fraccionamiento, or housing estate); and Int. (interior).

Addresses in Mexico are written with the street name first, followed by the street number. A five-digit código postal (postal code) precedes, rather than follows, the name of the city. Apdo. (apartado) means box; Apdo. Postal, or A.P., means post-office box number. Here is a sample address: Hacienda Paraíso, Calle Allende 211, 68000 Oaxaca, Oax.

The Mexico City bus system is used by millions of commuters because it's cheap and goes everywhere. Buses are packed during rush hours so, as in all big cities, you should be wary of pickpockets. One of the principal bus routes runs along Paseo de la Reforma, Avenida Juárez, and Calle Madero. This west-east route connects Bosque de Chapultepec with the Zócalo. A southbound bus may be taken along Avenida Insurgentes Sur to San Ángel and University City, or northbound along Avenida Insurgentes Norte to the Guadalupe Basílica. Mexico City tourism offices provide free bus-route maps. The price is between 1 and 4 pesos (about 40¢), depending on your destination.

Millions of intrepid drivers brave Mexico City's streets every day and survive, but for out-of-towners the experience can be frazzling. One-way streets are confusing, rush-hour traffic is nightmarish, and parking places can be hard to find. Police tow trucks haul away illegally parked vehicles, and the owner is heavily fined. Getting your car back here is a tedious process. Locatel (PHONE: 55/5658-1111) is an efficient 24-hour service for tracing vehicles that are towed, stolen, or lost (in case you forgot where you parked). There's a chance an operator on duty may speak English, but the service is primarily in Spanish. You can hire a chauffeur for your car through a hotel concierge or travel service such as American Express.

Car Rentals

When you think about renting a car, bear in mind that you may be sharing the road with bad local drivers -- sometimes acquiring a driver's license in Mexico is more a question of paying someone off than of having tested skill.

Mexico manufactures Chrysler, Ford, General Motors, Honda, Nissan, and Volkswagen vehicles. With the exception of Volkswagen, you can get the same kind of midsize and luxury cars in Mexico that you can rent in the United States and Canada. Economy usually refers to a Volkswagen Beetle, which may or may not come with air-conditioning.

Rates begin at $45 a day and $260 a week in Mexico City and $35for a compact car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This doesn't include tax on car rentals, which is 15%, or insurance, which runs about $100 a week. Avoid local car-rental agencies; stick with the major companies because they tend to be more reliable.

You can also hire a car with a driver; they're normally available through hotels and charge around $20 an hour within town, with a three-hour minimum requirement. Limousine service runs about $50 an hour within town, with a five-hour minimum. Rates for out-of-town trips are higher. Negotiate a price beforehand if you'll need the service for more than one day. If your hotel can't arrange limousine or car service, ask the concierge to refer you to a reliable sitio (cab stand); the rate will be lower.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Insurance

You must carry Mexican auto insurance, which you can purchase near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could well be jailed -- whether it was your fault or not -- unless you have insurance. Guilty until proven innocent is part of the country's Code Napoléon. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance at the border to cover your estimated trip. It's sold by the day, and if your trip is shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a prorated refund for the unused time upon application after you exit the country.

For more information, contact:

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (223 Via de San Ysidro, San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 619/428-3583).

Oscar Padilla (120 Willow Rd., San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 800/258-8600).

Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (2009 S. 10th St., McAllen, TX 78503, PHONE: 800/222-0158 or 956/686-0711).

Gasoline

PEMEX franchises all gas stations in Mexico. Stations are located at most road junctions and in cities and towns; gas is measured in liters instead of gallons. Gas stations usually do not accept U.S. or Canadian credit cards or dollars. Fuel prices tend to be on the lower end in Mexico City and surroundings and near the U.S. border, and increase the farther you get from these areas. Overall, prices run slightly to moderately higher than in the United States. Premium unleaded gas (called Magna Premio) and regular unleaded gas (Magna Sin) are available nationwide, but it's still a good idea to fill up whenever you can. Fuel quality is generally lower than that in the United States and Europe. Vehicles with fuel-injected engines are likely to have problems after driving extended distances.

Gas-station attendants pump the gas for you and may also wash your windshield and check your oil and tire air pressure. A 5- or 10-peso tip is customary, depending on the number of services rendered. Keep a close eye on the gas meter to make sure the attendant is starting it at "0" and that you're charged the correct price.

Requirements

There are two absolutely essential points to remember about driving in Mexico. First and foremost is to carry Mexican auto insurance.

Point No. 2: if you enter Mexico with a car, you must leave with it. In recent years, the high rate of U.S. vehicles being sold illegally in Mexico has caused the Mexican government to enact stringent regulations for bringing a car into the country -- at great inconvenience to motoring American tourists. In order to drive into the country, you must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a birth certificate or passport; a credit card (AE, DC, MC, or V); a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit-card owner must be one and the same -- that is, if your spouse's name is on the title of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed, leased, rental, or company cars, you must bring a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company.

When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay a $20 charge on your credit card, you'll receive a car permit and a sticker to put on your vehicle, all valid for up to six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border prior to their expiration date; otherwise you could incur high fines.

One alternative to going through this hassle when you cross is to have your paperwork done in advance at a branch of Sanborn's Mexican Insurance; look in the Yellow Pages for an office in almost every town on the U.S.-Mexico border. You'll still have to go through some of the procedures at the border, but all your paperwork will be in order, and Sanborn's express window will ensure that you get through relatively quickly. There's a $10 charge for this service. The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face.

If you bring the car into the country you must be in the vehicle at all times when it is driven. You cannot lend it to another person.

Your driver's license may not be recognized outside your home country. International driving permits (IDPs) are available from the American and Canadian automobile associations and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association and Royal Automobile Club. These international permits, valid only in conjunction with your regular driver's license, are universally recognized; having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

Road Conditions

There are several well-kept toll roads in Mexico -- most of them four lanes wide. However, these carreteras (major highways) don't go too far out of the capital into the countryside. (Cuota means toll road; libre means no toll, and such roads are two lanes and usually not as smooth.) Some excellent new roads have opened in the past decade or so, making car travel safer and faster. These include highways connecting Acapulco and Mexico City; Cancún and Mérida; Nogales and Mazatlán; León and Aguascalientes; Guadalajara and Tepic; Mexico City, Morelia, and Guadalajara; Mexico City, Puebla, Teotihuacán, and Oaxaca; Mexico City and Veracruz; and Nuevo Laredo and Monterrey. However, tolls as high as $40 one way can make using these thoroughfares prohibitively expensive. Approaches to most of the large cities are also in good condition.

In rural areas, roads are quite poor: use caution, especially during the rainy season, when rock slides and potholes are a problem, and watch out for animals. Driving in Mexico's central highlands may also necessitate adjustments to your carburetor. Generally, driving times are longer than for comparable distances in the United States. Topes (speed bumps) are also common; it's best to slow down when approaching a village.

Common sense goes a long way: if you have a long distance to cover, start early and fill up on gas; don't let your tank get below half full. Allow extra time for unforeseen occurrences as well as for the trucks that seem to be everywhere. By day, be alert to animals, especially cattle and dogs.

Traffic can be horrendous in cities, particularly in Mexico City. As you would in metropolitan areas anywhere, avoid rush hour (7-9 AM and 6-8 PM) and when schools let out (2-3 PM). Signage is not always adequate in Mexico, so travel with a companion and a good map. Always lock your car, and never leave valuable items in the body of the car (the trunk will suffice for daytime outings, but don't pack it in front of prying eyes).

Emergency Services

To help stranded motorists on major highways, the Mexican Tourism Ministry operates a fleet of more than 350 pickup trucks, known as the Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels, Mexico City (PHONE: 55/5250-8555 or 55/5545-3008). The bilingual drivers provide mechanical help, first aid, radio-telephone communication, basic supplies and small parts, towing, tourist information, and protection. Services are free, and spare parts, fuel, and lubricants are provided at cost. Tips are always appreciated (figure $5-$10 for big jobs, $2-$3 for minor repairs). The Green Angels patrol fixed sections of the major highways twice daily 8-8 (later on holiday weekends). If you break down, pull off the road as far as possible, lift the hood of your car, hail a passing vehicle, and ask the driver to notify the patrol. Most bus and truck drivers will be quite helpful. If you witness an accident, do not stop to help -- inform the nearest official.

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you should receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. Read this booklet in order to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your country.

Illegally parked cars are either towed or have wheel blocks placed on the tires, which can require a trip to the traffic-police headquarters for payment of a fine. When in doubt, park in a lot instead of on the street; your car will probably be safer there anyway.

If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in daytime, slow down: it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. One-way streets are common. One-way traffic is indicated by an arrow; two-way by a double-pointed arrow. A circle with a diagonal line superimposed on the letter E (for estacionamiento) means "no parking." Other road signs follow the now-widespread system of international symbols, a copy of which will usually be provided when you rent a car in Mexico.

In Mexico City, watch out for "Hoy no Circula" (Today This Car Can't Circulate) notices. Because of pollution, all cars in the city without a Verification "0" rating (usually those built before 1994) are prohibited from driving one day a week (two days a week during high-alert periods). Posted signs show certain letters or numbers paired with each day of the week, indicating that vehicles with those letters or numbers in their license plates are not allowed to drive on the corresponding day. Foreigners are not exempt. Cars with license plate numbers ending in 5 or 6 are prohibited on Monday; 7 or 8 on Tuesday; 3 or 4 on Wednesday; 1 or 2 on Thursday; and 9 or 10 on Friday.

Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. A few of the newer toll roads allow 110 kph (68 mph). In cities and small towns, observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph).

Seat belts are now required by law throughout Mexico.

Safety on the Road

Never drive at night in remote and rural areas. Banditos are one concern, but so are potholes, free-roaming animals, cars with no working lights, road-hogging trucks, and difficulty in getting assistance. It's best to use toll roads whenever possible; although costly, they are much safer.

Some of the biggest hassles on the road might be from police who pull you over for supposedly breaking the law, or for being a good prospect for a scam. Remember to be polite -- displays of anger will only make matters worse -- and be aware that a police officer might be pulling you over for something you didn't do. Although efforts are being made to fight corruption, it's still a fact of life in Mexico, and the $5 it costs to get your license back is definitely supplementary income for the officer who pulled you over with no intention of taking you down to police headquarters.

If you are stopped for speeding, the officer is supposed to take your license and hold it until you pay the fine at the local police station. But the officer will always prefer a mordida (small bribe) to wasting his time at the police station. If you decide to dispute a charge that seems preposterous, do so with a smile, and tell the officer that you would like to talk to the police captain when you get to the station. The officer usually will let you go rather than go to the station.

When crossing the streets by foot, look both ways for oncoming traffic, even with the light. Although pedestrians have the right of way by law, drivers disregard it. And more often than not, if a driver hits a pedestrian, he'll drive away as fast as he can without stopping, to avoid jail. Many Mexican drivers do not carry auto insurance, so you'll have to shoulder your own medical expenses.

Originally six-passenger sedans, now minibuses, peseros operate on a number of fixed routes and charge a flat rate (a peso once upon a time, hence the name). They're a good alternative to buses and taxis; however, be prepared for a jolting ride because many drivers like to turn their buses into bucking broncos. Likely routes for tourists are along the city's major west-east axis (Bosque de Chapultepec-Paseo de la Reforma-Avenida Juárez-Zócalo) and north-south along Avenida Insurgentes, between the Guadalupe Basílica and San Ángel-University City. Peseros pick up passengers at bus stops and outside almost all metro stations. Just stand on the curb, check the route sign on the oncoming pesero's windshield, and hold out your hand. Tell the driver where to stop, or press the button by the back door. If it's really crowded and you can't reach the back door in time, just bang on the ceiling and yell, "Baja," which means "getting down." Base fares are 2 pesos (about 20¢) with the price going up to 3.50 pesos (about 35¢) according to how far you travel. Exact change is appreciated by drivers and will save you a lot of fuss. Peseros are also known as "combis," "micros," and "rutas."

Transporting 5 million passengers daily, Mexico City's metro is one of the world's best, busiest, and cheapest transportation systems -- a ride costs 1.50 pesos (about 15¢). The clean marble-and-onyx stations are brightly lighted, and modern French-designed trains run quietly on rubber tires. Some stations, such as Insurgentes, are shopping centers. Even if you don't take a ride, visit the Zócalo station, which has large models of central Mexico City during three historic periods. Many stations have temporary cultural displays, from archaeological treasures to contemporary art; the Pino Suárez station has a small Aztec pyramid inside, a surprise discovery during construction.

There are 10 intersecting metro lines covering more than 160 km (100 mi). It's a bit confusing: the No. 8 previously had been assigned to a line whose construction was canceled because it would have destroyed unearthed Aztec ruins. Line 9 was subsequently built. Now No. 8 designates the newest (10th) line. The ninth line was A. Segments of Lines 1 and 2 cover most points of interest to foreigners, including Zona Rosa, Bellas Artes, and Centro Histórico. At the southern edge of the city, the Tasqueña station (Line 2) connects with the electric train (tren eléctrico) that continues south to Xochimilco. To the southeast, the tren ligero ("light" train) from the Pantitlán station (Lines 1, 5, and 9) heads east to Chalco in the state of Mexico. The various lines also serve all four bus stations, the Buenavista train station, and the airport; however, only light baggage is allowed on board during rush hours. User-friendly, color-coded maps are sometimes available free at metro-station information desks (if there's an attendant) and at Mexico City tourism offices; color-keyed signs and maps are posted all around.

Trains run frequently (about two minutes apart) and are least crowded between 10 and 4 and at night. To reduce incidences of harassment during crowded rush hours, regulations may require men to ride separate cars from women and children. Hours vary somewhat according to the line, but service is essentially 5 AM-midnight weekdays; 6 AM-2 AM Saturday; 6 AM-1 AM Sunday and holidays.

The Mexico City variety comes in several colors and sizes. Unmarked, or turismo, sedans with hooded meters are usually stationed outside major hotels and in tourist areas; however, they are uneconomical for short trips. Their drivers are almost always English-speaking guides and can be hired for sightseeing on a daily or hourly basis (always negotiate the price in advance). Sitio taxis operate out of stands, take radio calls, and are authorized to charge a small premium over the meter rate or will offer a set rate. Among these, the following offer 24-hour service:

Radio-Taxi (PHONE: 55/5566-0077).

Servi-Taxis (PHONE: 55/5271-2560).

Taxi-Mex (PHONE: 55/5538-0912 or 55/5538-0573) also accepts American Express.

Unauthorized cab drivers (often criminals who have stolen the cabs they drive) pose probably the single greatest danger to tourists in the capital, but this danger is easily avoided. Although the situation has improved slightly, outsiders are especially vulnerable to their assaults, and many have been robbed or forced to withdraw money from ATMs. Take only registered hotel taxis or have a hotel concierge call a more economical, but equally reliable sitio cab -- do not hail taxis on the street under any circumstances. Government-certified taxis have a license with a photo of the driver and a taxi number prominently displayed, a meter, and either an orange or green stripe at the bottom of the license plate. Be sure to establish the fare in advance if the sitio does not work with meter and premium.

Taxi drivers are authorized to charge 10% more at night, usually after 10. Taking even a sitio taxi in Mexico City is inexpensive and tips are not expected unless you have luggage -- then 10% is sufficient.