The Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) (PHONE: 1/146-5111) is about 11 km (7 mi) north of San José del Cabo and about 48 km (30 mi) from Cabo San Lucas. U.S. and Mexican carriers fly nonstop to Los Cabos from several U.S. cities.

Flying time to Los Cabos is 2 ½ hours from Los Angeles, 2 ½ hours from Houston, and 2 hours from Mexico City.

Carriers

AeroCalifornia (PHONE: 114/6-52-52 or 800/237-6225).

Mexicana (PHONE: 114/6-50-01).

Aeroméxico (PHONE: 114/6-50-97 or 800/237-6639).

Alaska Airlines (PHONE: 114/6-51-01 or 800/426-0333).

America West (PHONE: 114/2-28-82, 114/2-28-80, or 800/235-9292).

Continental (PHONE: 114/2-38-80, 114/2-09-59, or 800/525-0280).

Delta (PHONE: 91/800-902-2100 or 800/241-4141).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

Inexpensive airport shuttles run the 7 miles from the airport to San José del Cabo, as well as to Cabo San Lucas.

By Taxi

In regular official cabs (white and yellow), passengers bargain with drivers over fares, which should average US$10 to Cabo San Lucas.

Cruise lines that use Cabo San Lucas as a port of call include the following: Carnival (PHONE: 800/327-9501).

Princess (PHONE: 800/421-0522).

Royal Caribbean (PHONE: 800/327-0271).

The Autotransportes de Baja California bus line runs the length of the peninsula from Tijuana to Los Cabos, stopping at towns en route; the peninsula-long trip takes 22 hours. The Aguila bus line runs from Santa Rosalia to Los Cabos.

Mexico Highway 1, also known as the Transpeninsular Highway, runs the entire 1,700 km (1,060 mi) from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. The highway's condition varies depending on the weather and intervals between road repairs. Do not drive it at high speeds or at night -- it is not lighted. There are exits for all the principal towns in Baja Sur.

The road between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas was widened to four lanes and is in good condition, although dips and bridges become flooded in heavy rains, especially from August to November.

Banks are generally open weekdays 9-3. Government offices are usually open to the public 8-3; along with banks and most private offices, they are closed on national holidays. Stores are generally open weekdays and Saturdays from 9 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM; shops may also be open on Sundays. Some stores may close for a two-hour lunch break -- about 2-4. Airport shops are open for business seven days a week.

Arriving in Mexico

Upon entering Mexico, you will be given a baggage declaration form and asked to itemize what you're bringing into the country. You are allowed to bring in 2 liters of spirits or wine for personal use; 400 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; a reasonable amount of perfume for personal use; one movie camera and one regular camera and 12 rolls of film for each; and gift items not to exceed a total of $300. If driving across the U.S. border, gift items must not exceed $50. You aren't allowed to bring firearms, meat, vegetables, plants, fruit, or flowers into the country.

Mexico has instituted a $15 visitor fee that applies to all visitors except those entering by sea at Mexican ports who stay less than 72 hours and those entering by land who do not stray past the 26-30-km (16-18-mi) checkpoint into the country's interior. For visitors arriving by air, the fee, which covers visits of more than 72 hours and up to 30 days, is usually tacked on to the airline-ticket price. You must pay the fee each time you extend your 30-day tourist visa.

For U.S. and Canadian travelers, electrical converters are not necessary because Mexico operates on the 60-cycle, 120-volt system; however, many Mexican outlets have not been updated to accommodate three-prong and polarized plugs (those with one larger prong), so to be safe bring an adapter. If your appliances are dual-voltage you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For shavers only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers.

All embassies are in Mexico City.

Australia

Australian Embassy Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 5/531-5225.

Canada

Canadian Embassy Schiller 529, Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 5/724-7900.

New Zealand

New Zealand Embassy José Luis LaGrange 103, 10th fl., Col. Polanco, Mexico City, PHONE: 5/281-5486.

United Kingdom

British Embassy Río Lerma 71, Mexico City, PHONE: 5/207-2449.

United States

U.S. Embassy (Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, PHONE: 5/209-9100).

Police (PHONE: 114/3-39-77 Cabo San Lucas; 114/2-03-61 San José del Cabo).

Hospital (PHONE: 114/3-15-94 Cabo San Lucas; 114/2-00-13 San José del Cabo).

Red Cross (PHONE: 114/3-33-00 Cabo San Lucas; 114/2-03-16 San José del Cabo).

In the United States, being direct, efficient, and succinct is highly valued. But in Mexico, where communication tends to be more subtle, this style is often perceived as rude and aggressive. Mexicans are extremely polite, so losing your temper over delays or complaining loudly will get you branded as rude and make people less inclined to help you. Remember that things move at a slow pace here and that there's no stigma attached to being late; accept this gracefully. Learning basic phrases in Spanish such as "please" and "thank you" will make a big difference in how people respond to you.

Mexican same-sex couples keep a low profile, and it's a good idea for foreign same-sex couples to do the same. Two people of the same gender can often have a hard time getting a cama matrimonial (double bed), especially in smaller hotels. The same rule that applies all over the world holds in Mexico as well: alternative lifestyles (whether they be homosexuality or any other bending of conventional roles) are more easily accepted in cosmopolitan areas.

In Mexico the major health risk, known as turista, or traveler's diarrhea, is caused by eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water. So watch what you eat. Stay away from ice, uncooked food, and unpasteurized milk and milk products, and drink only bottled water or water that has been boiled for at least 20 minutes, even when you're brushing your teeth. When ordering cold drinks at untouristed establishments, skip the ice: sin hielo. (You can usually identify ice made commercially from purified water by its uniform shape and the hole in the center.) Hotels with water-purification systems will post signs to that effect in the rooms. Tacos al pastor -- thin pork slices grilled on a spit -- are delicious but dangerous. It's also a good idea to pass up ceviche, raw fish cured in lemon juice -- a favorite appetizer, especially at seaside resorts.

Spanish is the official language of Mexico, although Indian languages are spoken by approximately 20% of the population and those people may speak no Spanish at all. Basic English is widely understood by most people employed in tourism, less so in the less developed areas. At the very least, shopkeepers will know the numbers for bargaining purposes.

The Mexican postal system is notoriously slow and unreliable; never send packages or expect to receive them, as they may be stolen. (For emergencies, use a courier service or the express-mail service, with insurance). If you are an American Express cardholder, your best bet is to send a package to the AmEx office nearest the recipient.

Post offices (oficinas de correos) are found in even the smallest villages. International postal service is all airmail, but even so your letter will take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks to arrive. Service within Mexico can be equally slow.

It costs 3.50 pesos to send a postcard or letter weighing under 20 grams to the United States or Canada, and 4.40 pesos to Great Britain.

To receive mail in Mexico, you can have it sent to your hotel or use poste restante at the post office. In the latter case, the address must include the words "a/c Lista de Correos" (general delivery), followed by the city, state, postal code, and country. To use this service, you must first register with the post office at which you wish to receive your mail. The post office posts and updates daily a list of names for whom mail has been received. Holders of American Express cards or traveler's checks can have mail sent to them in care of the local American Express office. For a list of offices worldwide, write for the Traveler's Companion from American Express (Box 678, Canal Street Station, New York, NY 10013).

Mexico has a reputation for being inexpensive, particularly compared with other North American vacation spots, such as the Caribbean. But trendy Los Cabos can be an exception.

ATMs

ATMs (cajas automáticas) are becoming commonplace in more and more Mexican towns and cities. Cirrus and Plus are the most commonly found networks in Mexico. Before you leave home, ask what the transaction fee will be for withdrawing money in Mexico. (It's usually $3 a pop.) Many Mexican ATMs cannot accept PINs (personal identification numbers) that have more than four digits; if yours is longer, ask your bank about changing your PIN (numero de clave) before you leave home, and keep in mind that processing such a change often takes a few weeks.

Cirrus (PHONE: 800/424-7787).

Plus (PHONE: 800/843-7587).

Currency

Mexican currency comes in denominations of 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 200-, 500-, and 1,000-peso bills. Coins come in denominations of 20, 10, and 5 pesos and 50, 20, 10, and 5 centavos. Many of the coins and bills are very similar, so check carefully.

Exchanging Money

ATM transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, but ATM currency-exchange rates are the best of all because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. And if you take out a fair amount of cash per withdrawal, the transaction fee becomes less of a strike against the exchange rate (in percentage terms). However, most ATMs allow only up to $150 a transaction. Banks and casas de cambio (money-exchange houses) have the second-best exchange rates. The difference from one place to another is usually only a few centavos.

Most banks change money on weekdays only until 1 (though they stay open until 5), while casas de cambio generally stay open until 6 and often operate on weekends. Bank rates are regulated by the federal government and are therefore invariable, while casas de cambio have slightly more-variable rates. Some hotels also exchange money, but for providing you with this convenience they help themselves to a bigger commission than banks.

When changing money, count your bills before leaving the bank or casa de cambio, and don't accept any partially torn or taped-together notes; they won't be accepted anywhere. Also, many shop and restaurant owners are unable to make change for large bills. Enough of these encounters may compel you to request billetes chicos (small bills) when you exchange money.

International Currency Express (PHONE: 888/278-6628 for orders, www.foreignmoney.com).

Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362, www.us.thomascook.com).

Taxes

Mexico charges an airport departure tax of US$18 or the peso equivalent for international and domestic flights. This tax is usually included in the price of your ticket, but check to be certain. Traveler's checks and credit cards are not accepted at the airport as payment for this.

Many states charge a 2% tax on accommodations, the funds from which are used for tourism promotion. Mexico has a value-added tax of 15%, which is occasionally (and illegally) waived for cash purchases. Other taxes and charges apply for phone calls made from your hotel room.

Tipping

When tipping in Mexico, remember that the minimum wage is the equivalent of $3 a day and that the vast majority of workers in the tourist industry live barely above the poverty line. However, there are Mexicans who think in dollars and know, for example, that in the United States porters are tipped about $2 a bag; many of them expect the peso equivalent from foreigners while happily accepting 5 pesos (about 5¢) a bag from Mexicans. They will complain either verbally or with a facial expression if they feel they deserve more -- you and your conscience must decide.

Recommended tips: Porters and bellboys at airports and at moderate and inexpensive hotels: $1 per bag. Porters at expensive hotels: $2 per person. Maids: $1 per night (all hotels). Waiters: 10%-15% of the bill, depending on service (make sure a 10%-15% service charge hasn't already been added to the bill, although this practice is more common in resorts). Taxi drivers: Tipping is necessary only if the driver helps with your bags -- 5 pesos to 10 pesos should be sufficient, depending on the extent of the help. Tour guides and drivers: at least $1 per half day, minimum. Gas-station attendants: 3 pesos to 5 pesos; if they check the oil, tires, etc., tip more. Parking attendants and theater ushers: 5 pesos to 10 pesos. Some restaurants and theaters charge for valet-parking service; it's still customary to tip the attendant at least 10 pesos.

Entering Mexico

U.S. and Canadian citizens need only proof of citizenship for entry into Mexico. Tourists from other countries should check with a Mexican consulate or embassy.

U.K. Citizens

British citizens need a valid passport to enter Mexico.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport or to renew is during the fall and winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

The country code for Mexico is 52. The area code for Los Cabos is 624.

As of January 1997, Teléfonos de México's monopoly ended, enabling competition from several long-distance services, including MCI and AT&T. Many phones, especially in the better city hotels, have Touch-Tone (digital) circuitry. If you think you'll need to access an automated phone system or voice mail in the United States or elsewhere and you don't know what phone service will be available, it's a good idea to take along a Touch-Tone simulator (you can buy one for about $17 at most electronics stores). With the increased installation of new phone and fax lines in major Mexican cities, many phone numbers are being changed; a recording may offer the new number, so it's useful to learn the Spanish words for numbers 1 through 9.

Directory & Operator Information

Directory assistance is 040 nationwide. For international assistance, dial 00 first for an international operator and most likely you'll get one that speaks English; tell her in what city, state, and country you require assistance and she will connect you with directory assistance there.

International Calls

To make a call to the United States or Canada, dial 001 before the area code and number; to call Europe, Latin America, or Japan, dial 00 before the country and city codes. The country code for the U.S. and Canada is 1, the U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64, and South Africa 27.

Long-Distance Calls

One option for long-distance calls is to find a caseta de larga distancia, a telephone service usually operated out of a store such as a papelería (stationery store), pharmacy, restaurant, or other small business; look for the phone symbol on the door. Casetas may cost more to use than pay phones, but you have a better chance of immediate success. To make a direct long-distance call, tell the person on duty the number you'd like to call, and he or she will give you a rate and dial for you. Rates vary widely, so shop around. Sometimes you can make collect calls from casetas, and sometimes you cannot, depending on the individual operator and possibly your degree of visible desperation. Casetas will generally charge 50¢-$1.50 to place a collect call (some charge by the minute); it's usually better to call por cobrar (collect) from a pay phone.

Public Phones

There are two basic kinds of phones in Mexico. Occasionally you'll see traditional black, square phones with push buttons or dials; although they have a coin slot on top, you may make local calls on them for free. Other, newer phones have an unmarked slot for Ladatel cards. The number of digits you need to dial for local calls varies. Area or city codes must be dialed when you are calling long distance within Mexico, and in some cities, such as Mexico City, they must now be dialed even when you are calling locally.

Tourist Offices

At present, there are no official tourist information offices in Los Cabos; hotel tour desks are the best sources of information. Avoid tour stands on the streets; they are usually associated with time-share operations.

In Baja

Secretary of Tourism (B.C.S.Hwy. 1 between Km. 5 & 6, La Paz, Baja California Sur).

At Home

Mexican Government Tourist Offices (MGO): United States, (31 East 63rd St., 3rd fl., New York, NY 10021 PHONE: 800/446-3942 nationwide; other locations: 300 North Michigan Ave., 4th fl., Chicago, IL 60601, PHONE: 312/606-9273, FAX: 312/606-9015; 2401 West 6th St., 5th fl., Los Angeles, CA 90057, PHONE: 213/351-2069, FAX: 213/351-2074; 10440 West Office Dr., Houston, TX 77042, PHONE: 713/780-3740, FAX: 713/780-8367; 1200 NW 78th Ave., Suite 203, Miami, FL 33126, PHONE: 305/381-6996, FAX: 305/381-8982).

Canada, (1 Place Ville Marie, Suite 1510, Montréal, Québec H3B 2B5, PHONE: 514/871-1052; other locations: 2 Bloor St. W, Suite 1502, Toronto, Ontario M4W 33E2, PHONE: 416/925-0704, FAX: 416/925-6061; 999 W. Hastings St., Suite 1610, Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 2WC, PHONE: 604/669-2845, FAX: 604/669-3498).

United Kingdom, (1 Place Ville Marie, Suite 1510, Montréal H3B 2B5, PHONE: 514/871-1052).

The Pacific coast of Baja averages 60-75°F (16-24°C). Summer temperatures can rise to 85°F (30°C), winter nights can drop to 48°F (9°C). Inland summer temperatures can be 110°F (43°C). The Baja Cape from La Paz to Cabo is warm year round with summers as hot as inland and winters a moderate 70-80°F (21-27°C).

Holidays

Anniversary of the Mexican Revolution (Nov. 20) is a national holiday. Cinco de Mayo (May 5) marks, with great fanfare countrywide, the anniversary of the French defeat by Mexican troops in Puebla in 1862. Labor Day (May 1) is a day for workers to parade through the streets. New Year's Day is a major celebration throughout the country. Agricultural and livestock fairs are held in the provinces. Benito Juárez's Birthday (March 21) is a national holiday. This is also the day that marks the beginning of spring.

If you plan to dine at the Corridor hotels or travel frequently between the two towns, it's a good idea to rent a car for a few days. Taxi fares are steep here.

Car Rentals

California Baja Rent-A-Car (9245 Jamacha Blvd., Spring Valley, CA 91977, PHONE: 619/470-7368; 888/470-7368 toll-free in the U.S.) rents four-wheel-drive vehicles, convertibles, and sedans for use throughout Mexico; you can pick up a car in Tijuana and drop it off in Los Cabos, but expect to pay a hefty additional charge.

The following car-rental agencies have desks at the airport and in San José or Cabo San Lucas:

Avis (PHONE: 114/6-03-88).

Dollar (PHONE: 114/2-01-00 or 114/3-12-50).

National (PHONE: 114/2-24-22 or 114/3-14-14).

Thrifty (PHONE: 114/6-50-30 or 114/3-16-66).

At Home

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Thrifty (PHONE: 800/847-4389).

Insurance

In Mexico you must have Mexican auto insurance, which runs about $100 a week. You can buy a policy at the U.S.-Mexican border. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could be jailed -- whether it was your fault or not -- unless you have insurance. Guilty until proven innocent is part of the country's Code Napoléon. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance at the border to cover your estimated trip. It's sold by the day, and if your trip is shorter than your original estimate, some companies might issue a prorated refund for the unused time upon application after you exit the country.

Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (223 Via de San Ysidro, San Ysidro, CA 92173, PHONE: 619/428-3583).

Oscar Padilla (4330 La Jolla Village Dr., San Diego, CA 92122, PHONE: 800/258-8600).

Requirements

A valid foreign driver's license is acceptable in Mexico. If you enter the country with a car, you must depart with it.

Road Conditions

Since the completion of the the 1,708-km (1,059-mi) Transpeninsular Highway, also called Mexico Highway 1, in 1973, travelers began gradually to find their way down to Baja Sur, drawn by the wild terrain and the pristine beaches of both coastlines. But Baja Sur remains a rugged and largely undeveloped land, and many people opt to fly to the region rather than drive. Highway 1 is in fairly good repair, but there are potholes in some stretches, and services (gas, rest rooms) may not be available. Those venturing to brave it should be well prepared with water and other provisions for a long drive in desolate but beautiful country.

Rules of the Road

When you sign up for Mexican car insurance, you should receive a booklet on Mexican rules of the road. Read this booklet in order to avoid breaking laws that differ from those of your native country. Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. Observe the posted speed limits, which can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph).