Au Printemps spent a whopping EUR30 million in revamping its three major stores: Printemps de la Maison (home furnishings), Printemps de l'Homme (menswear -- six floors no less), and the brilliant Printemps de la Mode (fashion, fashion, fashion), which is cool, happening, and has everything from cutting-edge Helmut Lang to glitzy-gold Jeremy Scott, from the mid-range Zara line to the teenage Free. Fashion shows are held on Tuesday (all year) and Friday (April-October) at 10 AM under the cupola on the seventh floor of La Mode and are free. (Reservations can be made in advance by calling 01-42-82-63-17; tickets can also be obtained on the day of show at the service desk on the first floor.) Métro: Havre Caumartin, Opéra, and RER: Auber.