Chanel is helmed by a newly svelte Karl Lagerfeld, who lost more than 80 pounds in a year and is now so skinny his ears look fleshy. Collections at Chanel have followed Karl's descent into skeleton: dresses and jackets have that tiny schoolgirl arm and skirts caress pencil-thin legs. The historic center is at the rue Cambon and is the best place to visit to get the full Chanel effect. Great investments include all of Coco's favorites -- one perfect navy-blue suit with the signature white piping, a quilted bag with the gold chain, or you can indulge in one small guiltless pleasure -- the always fashionable camellia brooch in your favorite color. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Other location: 31 rue Cambon, 1, Louvre/Tuileries, Paris, France, PHONE:01-42-86-28-00; Métro: Tuileries.