A boat or ferry trip across the Channel between France and the United Kingdom can range from a mere 40 minutes (via Hovercraft) to 90 minutes (via ferryboat). The length of the trip also depends on your departure point: popular routes link Boulogne and Folkestone, Dieppe and Newhaven, Le Havre and Portsmouth, and, the most booked passage, Calais and Dover.

Schedules and tickets are available at any travel agency throughout France or via the Internet. Travel agencies accept traveler's checks, major credit cards, and cash. Fares vary, but a round-trip from Dover to Calais completed within five days costs EUR36.65 for one person, EUR221.40 for two adults plus a car. The price doubles if the visit exceeds five days.

Driving distances from the French ports to Paris are as follows: from Calais, 290 km (180 mi); from Boulogne, 243 km (151 mi); from Dieppe, 193 km (120 mi); from Dunkerque, 257 km (160 mi). The fastest routes to Paris from each port are via N43, A26, and A1 from Calais and the Channel Tunnel; via N1 from Boulogne; via N15 from Le Havre; via D915 and N1 from Dieppe; and via A25 and A1 from Dunkerque.

Dover-Calais

Hoverspeed (International Hoverport, Marine Parade, Dover CT17 9TG, PHONE: 01304/240241, www.hoverspeed.com) operates up to 15 crossings a day by Hovercraft and catamaran. The crossings take 35 minutes (Hovercraft) or 95 minutes (catamaran).

P&O European Ferries (Channel House, Channel View Rd., Dover, Kent CT17 9TJ, PHONE: 020/8575-8555, www.poportsmouth.com) has up to 25 sailings a day; the crossing takes about 75 minutes.

Seafrance (23 rue Louis-le-Grand, 75002 Paris, PHONE: 01-44-94-40-40, www.seafrance.net) operates up to 15 sailings a day; the crossing takes about 90 minutes.

Folkestone-Boulogne

Hoverspeed is the sole operator on this route, with ten 35-minute crossings a day.

Newhaven-Dieppe

Seafrance has as many as four sailings a day, and the crossing takes four hours.

Portsmouth-Le Havre

P&O European Ferries has up to three sailings a day, and the crossing takes 5½ hours by day, 7½ by night.

Paris has two major airports:

Roissy Charles de Gaulle (CDG) (PHONE: 01-48-62-22-80 in English, www.adp.com), 26 km (16 mi) northeast of Paris.

Orly (ORY) (PHONE: 01-49-75-15-15, www.adp.com), 16 km (10 mi) south of Paris.

It doesn't really matter which one you fly into; Paris is easily accessible from either, though Roissy is the only one with a TGV (high-speed train) station. When traveling from Paris to the airport on departure, whether you take a car or bus, always allot an extra half hour (at least) because of the often horrendous traffic tie-ups within the airports proper (especially in peak seasons and at peak hours): once you arrive at the airport, you'll often need to take an interairport bus to shuttle you from one terminal to another and if this bus is held up due to traffic congestion (often the case), a serious case of nail-biting will result.

Flying time to Paris is 7 hours from New York, 9½ hours from Chicago, and 11 hours from Los Angeles. Flying time from the United Kingdom to Paris is 1½ hours.

Carriers

Air Canada (PHONE: 800/776-3000 in the U.S. and Canada).

Air France (PHONE: 800/237-2747 in the U.S.; 08-02-80-28-02 in France, www.airfrance.com).

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300 in the U.S.; 01-69-32-73-07 in France, www.aa.com).

British Airways (PHONE: 800/247-9297 in the U.S.; 0345/222111 in the U.K.; 08-25-82-54-00 in France, www.britishairways.com).

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in the U.S.; 01-42-99-09-09 in France, www.continental.com).

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in the U.S.; 08-00-35-40-80 in France, www.delta.com).

Northwest (PHONE: 800/225-2525 in the U.S.; 01-42-66-90-00 in France, www.klm.com).

Qantas (PHONE: 800/227-4500 in the U.S.; 08-03-84-68-46 in France, www.qantas.com).

United (PHONE: 800/538-2929 in the U.S.; 08-01-72-72-72 in France, www.unitedairlines.com).

US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; 08-20-30-49-23 in France, www.usairways.com).

From the U.K.

Air France (PHONE: 020/8742-6600 in the U.K.; 08-02-80-28-02 in France, www.airfrance.com).

British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111 in the U.K.; 08-02-80-29-02 in France, www.britishairways.com).

British Midland (PHONE: 020/8754-7321; 0345/554-554 in the U.K.; 01-48-62-55-65 in France, www.british-midland.com).

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

Roissy Charles de Gaulle

By Bus: You don't need to have flown Air France to take its comfortable bus to the city. Line two goes from Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport to Etoile and Porte Maillot from 5:45 AM to 11 PM. It leaves every 12 minutes and costs EUR10, which you can pay on board. Line Four goes to Montparnasse and the Gare de Lyon from 7 AM to 9 PM. Buses run every 30 minutes and cost EUR11.50. For more information, contact Air France Bus (PHONE: 01-41-56-89-00 recorded information in English, www.cars-airfrance.com).

Another option is to take Roissybus, operated by the Paris Transit Authority, which runs between Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport and rue Scribe, by the Opéra, every 20 minutes from 5:45 AM to 11 PM; the cost is EUR8.08. Note that you have to hail the bus that you want -- it will not stop automatically -- and that rush-hour traffic can make for a slow ride.

By Shuttle: For a comfortable, hassle-free arrival in Paris, you can arrange a ride in a shuttle, and a bilingual chauffeur will be waiting with a minivan to drive you directly to your destination. Rates, set so there are no unpleasant surprises due to poor traffic conditions, are nominal -- approximately EUR19 for one person and EUR13 per person for two or more people traveling together, and can be prepaid by credit card. It is best to call, fax, or e-mail your request at least 24 hours in advance, noting your flight number, expected time of arrival, and your destination address in Paris. Service is provided by two companies:

Airport Shuttle (PHONE: 01-30-11-11-90; 888/426-2705 toll free from the U.S., www.airportshuttle.fr).

Paris Airports Services (PHONE: 08-21-80-08-01, www.parisairportservice.com).

By Taxi: Taxis are the least desirable mode of transportation into the city. If you are traveling at peak tourist times, you may have to stand in a very long line with a lot of other disgruntled travelers. Journey times, and as a consequence, prices, are unpredictable. At best, the trip takes 30 minutes, but it can take as long as one hour. The average fare falls between EUR30 and EUR45. You can ask for a quote before getting into the taxi, but it is almost certain that your driver (grumpy) will respond with a shrug. There is also a EUR.90 supplement per piece of luggage. Note that drivers can no longer refuse to take a fourth person; it's the law.

By Train: From Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport, the least expensive way to get into Paris is on the RER (Réseau Express Régional, or Regional Express Network), the suburban commuter train. Each airport terminal has an exit where the free RER shuttle bus (a white and yellow bus with the letters ADP in gray) passes every 7-15 minutes to take you on the short ride to the nearby RER B-line station: Terminal 2A (exit A8), Terminal 2C (exit C8), Terminal 2B (exit B6), Terminal 2D (exit D6), Terminal 2F (exit 2.08). Trains to central Paris (Les Halles, St-Michel, Luxembourg) depart every 15 minutes. The fare (including métro connection) is EUR7.62, and journey time is about 30 minutes. Note that you will have to carry your luggage down to the train tracks, and trains will be crowded if you are traveling during rush hour.

Orly

By Bus: You can take an Air France bus from Orly to Les Invalides on the Left Bank and Montparnasse; these run every 12 minutes from 6 AM to 11:30 PM (you need not have flown on Air France to use this service). The fare is EUR7.50, and journey time is between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on traffic.

The Paris Transit Authority's Orlybus is another option; buses leave every 15 minutes for the Denfert-Rochereau métro station; the cost is EUR5.65.

By Shuttle: With advance reservations a shuttle will pick you up at Orly and drive you directly to your destination. If possible make your reservations at least 24 hours in advance; MasterCard and Visa are accepted and the operators speak English. The fare is EUR16.80 for one person traveling alone or EUR13 per person with two or more people traveling together. Service is provided by:

Airport Shuttle (PHONE: 01-30-11-11-90; 888/426-2705 toll free from the U.S., www.airportshuttle.fr).

Paris Airports Services (PHONE: 08-21-80-08-01, www.parisairportservice.com).

By Taxi: At best, taxis take around 25 minutes from Orly to downtown Paris; the fare falls between EUR15.25 and EUR30.55.

By Train: From Orly airport, the most economical way to get into Paris is to take the RER-C or Orlyrail line; catch the free shuttle bus from the terminal to the train station. Trains to Paris leave every 15 minutes. Passengers arriving in either the South or West Terminal need to use exit G. The fare is EUR5.20, and journey time is about 35 minutes.

Another option is to take the monorail service, Orlyval, which runs between the Antony RER-B station and Orly airport every four to eight minutes. The fare to downtown Paris is EUR8.70.

The excellent national train service in France means that long-distance bus service in the country is practically nonexistent; regional buses are found where train service is spotty.

Information on buses to the rare rural areas without train service can be obtained from SNCF (88 rue St-Lazare, 75009 Paris, PHONE: 08-36-35-35-39 in English), the French national railroad.

] The largest international operator is Eurolines (28 av. Général-de-Gaulle, Bagnolet, PHONE: 08-36-69-52-52 in France; 020/7730-3499 in the U.K., www.eurolines.fr), which operates a service from London's Victoria Coach Station, via the Dover-Calais ferry, to Paris's Porte de Bagnolet (a half-hour métro ride from central Paris, at the end of métro line 3). There is a 9 AM departure that arrives in Paris at 4 PM, a 2 PM departure that arrives at 9 PM, and the overnight trip from 9:30 PM, which arrives in Paris at 7 AM. Fares are £60 round-trip (under-25 youth pass £56), £35 one-way.

Hoverspeed (International Hoverport, Marine Parade, Dover CT17 9TG, PHONE: 01304/240241, www.hoverspeed.com) offers up to four daily departures from London's Victoria Coach Station. Fares are £60 round-trip, £38 one-way.

There are two major rings that run parallel to each other and encircle Paris: the périférique intérieur, the inside ring, also known as the grands boulevards (not to be confused with the layout of major avenues layout in the center of Paris's Right Bank), and the périférique extérieur, the outside ring, which is a major highway. From this ring, portes (gates) connect Paris to the major highways of France. The names of these highways function on the same principal as the métro, with the final destination as the determining point in the direction you must take.

To head north, look for Porte de la Chapelle (direction Lille and Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport); east, for Porte de Bagnolet (direction Metz and Nancy); south, for Porte d'Orléans (direction Lyon and Bordeaux); and west, for Porte d'Auteuil (direction Rouen and Chartres) or Porte de St-Cloud.

From the U.K.

Motorists from the United Kingdom have a choice of either the Channel Tunnel or the ferry services when traveling to the continent. Reservations are essential at peak times and a good idea at any time, especially when going via the Chunnel. Cars don't drive in the Chunnel but are loaded onto trains.

The SNCF (88 rue St-Lazare, 75009 Paris, PHONE: 08-36-35-35-35, www.sncf.fr), France's rail system, is fast, punctual, comfortable, and comprehensive. There are various options: local trains, overnight trains with sleeping accommodations, and the high-speed TGV, or Trains à Grande Vitesse (averaging 255 kph/160 mph on the Lyon/southeast line and 300 kph/190 mph on the Lille and Bordeaux/southwest lines).

The TGVs, the fastest way to get around the country, operate between Paris and Lille/Calais, Paris and Lyon/Switzerland/the Riviera, Paris and Angers/Nantes, Paris and Tours/Poitiers/Bordeaux, Paris and Brussels, and Paris and Amsterdam. As with other main-line trains, a small supplement may be assessed at peak hours.

You can call any station for train information or seat reservations to any destination. If you know what station you'll depart from, you can get a free schedule there (while supplies last), or you can access the multilingual computerized-schedule information network at any Paris station. You can also make reservations and buy your ticket while at the computer. Go to the Grandes Lignes counter for travel within France and to the Billets Internationaux desk if you're heading out of the country. Note that calling the SNCF's 08 number costs EUR.35 per minute, which quickly adds up; to save this cost, either go to the nearest station and make the reservations in person or visit the SNCF Web site www.sncf.fr.

Seat reservations are required on TGVs and are a good idea on trains that may be crowded -- particularly in summer and on holidays on popular routes. You also need a reservation for sleeping accommodations.

Paris has six international rail stations: Gare du Nord (northern France, northern Europe, and England via Calais or Boulogne); Gare St-Lazare (Normandy, England via Dieppe); Gare de l'Est (Strasbourg, Luxembourg, Basel, and central Europe); Gare de Lyon (Lyon, Marseille, the Riviera, Geneva, Italy); and Gare d'Austerlitz (Loire Valley, southwest France, Spain). Note that Gare Montparnasse has taken over as the main terminus for trains bound for southwest France since the introduction of the new TGV-Atlantique service.

Between the U.K. and France

Short of flying, taking the "Chunnel" is the fastest way to cross the English Channel: 3 hours from London's central Waterloo Station to Paris's central Gare du Nord, 35 minutes from Folkestone to Calais.

Passenger Service

In the United Kingdom:

Eurostar (PHONE: 08-36-35-35-39 in France; 1233/617575; 0870/518-6186 in the U.K., www.eurostar.com).

InterCity Europe (Victoria Station, London, PHONE: 020/7834-2345; 020/7828-0892; 0990/848-848 credit-card bookings).

In the United States:

BritRail Travel (PHONE: 800/677-8585 in the U.S.; 020/7834-2345 in the U.K.).

Rail Europe (PHONE: 800/942-4866 in the U.S., www.raileurope.com).

Car Transport

Eurotunnel (PHONE: 0870/535-3535 in the U.K.; 070/223210 in Belgium; 03-21-00-61-00 in France, ww2.eurotunnel.com).

Banks and Offices

On weekdays, banks are open generally 9:30 AM-4:30 or 5 PM (note that the Banque de France closes at 3:30), and some banks are also open on Saturday 9-5 as well. In general, government offices and businesses are open 9-5.

Gas Stations

Gas stations in the city are generally open 7:30 AM-8 PM, though those in the vicinity of the principal portes (entranceways) near the péripherique (beltway) are open 24 hours a day.

Museums and Sights

Most museums are closed one day a week -- usually either Monday or Tuesday -- and on national holidays. Generally, museums and national monuments are open from 10 AM to 5 or 6 PM. A few close for lunch (noon-2) and are open Sunday only in the afternoon. Many of the large museums have one nocturne (nighttime) opening per week, when they are open until 9:30 or 10 PM. The Louvre is closed on Tuesday and stays open late on Wednesday until 9:45 PM. The Centre Pompidou is closed on Tuesday and has late opening hours daily until 10 PM. The Musée d'Orsay is closed on Monday and stays open until 9:30 PM on Thursday. All national museums are free to the public the first Sunday of every month.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are generally open Monday-Saturday 8:30 AM-8 PM. On the door of each is a list of nearby pharmacies that stay open late, or for 24 hours, or on Sunday.

Shops

Generally, large shops are open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM and remain open through lunchtime. Many of the large department stores stay open until 10 PM on Wednesday or Thursday. Smaller shops and many supermarkets often open earlier (8 AM) but take a lengthy lunch break (1 PM-3 PM) and generally close around 8 PM; small food shops are often open Sunday mornings, 9 AM-1 PM. There is always a small corner grocery store that stays open late, usually until 11 PM, if you're in a bind for basic necessities like diapers, bread, cheese, and fruit (and perhaps the unnecessary bottle of chilled champagne). Note that prices are substantially higher in such outlets than in the larger supermarkets. Most shops close all day Sunday, except in the Marais (where shops that stand side by side on rue des Francs Bourgeois, from antiques dealers to chic little designers, open their doors to welcome hordes of Sunday browsers); the Bastille, the Latin Quarter, and the Ile de la Cité also have shops that open on Sunday.

Arriving in France

If you're coming from outside the European Union (EU), you may import duty free: (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco (twice that if you live outside Europe); (2) 2 liters of wine and, in addition, (a) 1 liter of alcohol over 22% volume (most spirits) or (b) 2 liters of alcohol under 22% volume (fortified or sparkling wine) or (c) 2 more liters of table wine; (3) 50 ml of perfume and 250 ml of toilet water; (4) 200 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea; and (5) other goods to the value of EUR46 (EUR15.3 for those under 15).

If you're arriving from another EU country, there are no limits to what you may bring with you provided the articles are for personal use. As far as tobacco and alcohol are concerned, the amounts considered standard for personal use are generous: 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars,1 kg of tobacco,10 litres of spirits, 20 litres of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), 90 litres of wine (of which a maximum 60 litres of sparkling wine), 110 litres of beer.

Any amount of euros or foreign currency may be brought into France, but foreign currencies converted into euros may be reconverted into a foreign currency only up to the equivalent of EUR769.

For additional information, contact the Direction des Douanes (16 rue Yves Toudic, 10, PHONE: 01-40-40-39-00).

The electrical current in France is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Australia

4 rue Jean-Rey, Paris, 15 PHONE: 01-40-59-33-00 Métro: métro Bir-Hakeim open weekdays 9:15-12:15

Canada

35 av. Montaigne, Paris, 8 PHONE: 01-44-43-29-00 Métro: métro Franklin-D.-Roosevelt open weekdays 8:30-11

New Zealand

7 ter rue Léonardo da Vinci, Paris, 16 PHONE: 01-45-00-24-11 Métro: métro Victor-Hugo open weekdays 9-1

United Kingdom

35 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, Paris, 8 PHONE: 01-44-51-31-00 Métro: métro Madeleine open weekdays 9:30-12:30 and 2:30-5

United States

2 rue St-Florentin, Paris, 1 PHONE: 01-43-12-22-22 in English; 01-43-12-23-47 in emergencies Métro: métro Concorde open weekdays 9-3

Emergency numbers are:

Ambulance (PHONE: 15).

Fire Department (PHONE: 18).

Police (PHONE: 17).

These numbers are toll-free and can be dialed from any phone.

On the street, some French phrases that may be needed in an emergency are as follows: Au secours! (Help!), urgence (emergency), samu (ambulance), pompiers (firemen), poste de station (police station), médicin (doctor), and hôpital (hospital).

The French National Health Care system has been organized to provide fully equipped, fully staffed hospitals within 30 minutes of every resident in Paris. On signs, hospitals are indicated by a rectangular blue box with a white cross. Note that if you are able to walk into a hospital emergency room by yourself, you are often considered "low priority" and the wait can be interminable.

If time is of the essence, the best thing to do is to call the fire department (18); a fully trained team of paramedics will usually arrive within five minutes. You may also dial for a Samu ambulance (15); there is usually an English-speaking physician available who will help you assess the situation and either dispatch an ambulance immediately or advise you as to your best course of action.

In a less urgent situation, do what the French do and call one of the hotlines:

SOS Dentists (PHONE: 01-43-37-51-00).

SOS Doctors (PHONE: 01-47-07-77-77).

Like magic, a certified, experienced doctor or dentist arrives at the door well within an hour, armed with an old leather doctor case filled with the essentials to diagnose and treat the patient (at an average cost of EUR53.45). He or she may or may not be bilingual but will, at worst, have a rudimentary understanding of English. This is a very helpful 24-hour service to use for common benign illnesses that need to be treated quickly for comfort, such as high fevers, toothaches, or stomach flus (which seem to have the unfortunate habit of announcing themselves late at night).

Hospital Emergency Rooms

The American Hospital and the Hertford British Hospital both have 24-hour emergency hot lines with bilingual doctors and nurses who can provide advice.

The American Hospital (63 bd. Victor-Hugo, Neuilly, PHONE: 01-46-41-25-25).

The Hertford British Hospital (3 rue Barbès, Levallois-Perret, PHONE: 01-46-39-22-22).

Late-Night and 24-Hour Pharmacies

For small problems, go to a pharmacy, marked by a green neon cross. Pharmacists have the right to administer first aid and recommend over-the-counter drugs, and they can be very helpful in advising you in English or sending you to the nearest English-speaking pharmacist.

Dhéry (Galerie des Champs, 84 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8, PHONE: 01-45-62-02-41) is open 24 hours.

Pharmacie des Arts (106 bd. Montparnasse, 14) is open daily until midnight.

Pharmacie Internationale (5 pl. Pigalle, 9, PHONE: 01-48-78-38-12).

Pharmacie Matignon (rue Jean-Mermoz, at the Rond-Point de Champs-Élysées, 8) is open daily until 2 AM.

There are many ways to see Paris on a guided tour.

Bike Tours

A number of companies organize bike tours around Paris and its environs (Versailles, Chantilly, and Fontainebleau) for about EUR23-EUR30 per person. For more information, contact:

Butterfield & Robinson (70 Bond St., Toronto, M5B 1X3, Canada, PHONE: 416/864-1354 or 800/678-1147).

Paris Bike (83 rue Daguerre, 14, PHONE: 01-45-38-58-58).

Paris à Vélo, C'est Sympa (37 bd. Bourdon, 4, PHONE: 01-48-87-60-01).

Boat Tours

Boat trips along the Seine run throughout the day and evening for a cost EUR6.10-EUR15.25. Many tours include lunch or dinner for an average cost of EUR45.80-EUR91.60. Reservations for meals are usually essential, and some require jacket and tie.

Bateaux Mouches (Pont de l'Alma, 8, PHONE: 01-42-25-96-10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr) boats depart from the Pont de l'Alma (Right Bank) 10-noon, 2-7, and 8:30-10:30. Lunch is served at 1 PM and dinner at 8:30 PM.

Bateaux Parisiens-Tour Eiffel (Pont d'Iéna, 7, PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44, www.bateauxparisiens.com) boats depart from the Pont d'Iéna (Left Bank) every half hour in summer and every hour in winter, starting at 10 AM. The last boat leaves at 9 PM (11 PM in summer). There are lunch and dinner cruises.

Bat-O-Bus (Pont d'Iéna, 7, PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44 or 01-44-11-33-99, www.ratp.com) trips along the Seine, without commentary, give the advantage of being able to get on and off at any one of seven stops along the river, including the Eiffel Tower, Musée d'Orsay, St. Germain-des-Prés, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, Hôtel de Ville, and the Champs-Élysées. Buy a one-day pass for EUR9.90 or a two-consecutive-day pass for EUR12.10. Note that the boat operates from May 1 to October 31 and departs every half hour between 10 and 6.

Canauxrama (5 bis quai de la Loire, 19; Bassin de l'Arsenal, 12 PHONE: 01-42-39-15-00) www.canauxrama.com organizes leisurely canal tours in flat-bottom barges along the St-Martin and Ourcq canals in East Paris. Departures from the quai de la Loire are at 9:15 and 2:45, and departures from the Bassin de l'Arsenal (opposite 50 boulevard de la Bastille) are at 9:30 and 2:30. The trip lasts about 2½ hours. Reservations should be made.

Paris Canal (19 quai de la Loire, 19, PHONE: 01-42-40-96-97) runs three-hour trips with bilingual commentary between the Musée d'Orsay and the Parc de La Villette, between April and mid-November only. Reservations are essential.

Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Ile de la Cité, 1, PHONE: 01-46-33-98-38) boats depart every roughly every 30 to 45 minutes from square du Vert Galant, 1:30-noon, 1:30-8:00, and 9-10:30 from March through October, and less frequently the rest of the year.

Yachts de Paris (Port de Javel PHONE: 01-44-54-14-70, www.yachtsdeparis.com) organizes 2½-hour "gourmand cruises" (for about EUR135.90) year-round.

Bus Tours

For a two-hour orientation tour by bus, the standard price is about EUR23.

Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, 1, PHONE: 01-44-55-61-00), one of the largest bus-tour operators, runs standard tours of the city, as well as several minibus excursions that are more intimate (and expensive) than the standard tours.

Paris Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, 1, PHONE: 01-42-60-31-25) is another of the largest bus-tour operators in the city.

Paris L'Open Tour (PHONE: 01-42-66-56-56) offers tours in a London-style double-decker bus with an open top. The bilingual tours last about two hours, but you can get on and off as you please, since the bus stops at more than 20 spots along a circular route. Tickets cost EUR24 for one day of unlimited use, EUR26 for two (consecutive) days. There is also a one-hour Montmartre circuit and a one-hour Bastille-Bercy circuit.

For an interesting, authentic, and economical trip, why not take a regular city bus for a mere EUR1.30 per ticket? (Timetables are available from the main Paris Tourist Office.)

RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 8; 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6, PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14), the Paris Transit Authority, also runs guide-accompanied excursions in and around Paris by bus.

Helicopter Tours

Delta Lima (PHONE: 01-40-68-01-23) offers a helicopter tour that affords a spectacular aerial view of the city; it takes off from Toussus le Noble (15 minutes from Paris). Tours last 35 minutes and cost EUR147 per person.

Walking Tours

Paris Walking Tours (PHONE: 01-48-09-21-40, www.paris-walks.com)offer a wide selection of tours, from neighborhood visits to museum tours and theme tours such as "Hemingway's Paris," "The Marais," "Montmartre," and "The Latin Quarter." A two-hour tour costs about EUR10.

Black Paris Tours (PHONE: 01-46-37-03-96) offers tours exploring the places made famous by African-American musicians, writers, artists, and political exiles. Tours include a four- to five-hour foot-bus-métro excursion (EUR53.45) that offers first-time visitors a city orientation and a primer in the history of African-Americans in Paris. Other options include "Montmartre/Pigalle: The 1920s Harlem of Paris" and tours of top African and soul-food restaurants.

The Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques (Bureau des Visites/Conférences, Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4, PHONE: 01-44-61-21-70) regularly publishes a listing of upcoming walking tours.

Tours are also listed in the weekly magazine Pariscope and in L'Officiel des Spectacles, which lists walking tours under the heading "Conférences" (most are in French, unless otherwise noted).

The French may appear prickly at first to English-speaking visitors, and it helps if you make an effort to speak a little French. A simple, friendly bonjour (hello) will do, as will asking if the person you are greeting speaks English (Parlez-vous anglais?). Be patient, and speak English slowly. Generally, at least one person in most hotels can speak English (unless you are in a very rural area).

Post offices, or PTT, are scattered throughout every arrondissement and are recognizable by a yellow "La Poste" sign. They are usually open weekdays 8 AM-7 PM, Saturday 8 AM-noon.

Locations include:

Main office (52 rue du Louvre, 1), open 24 hours seven days a week.

Champs-Élysées office (10 rue Balzar, 8), Monday to Saturday, open until 7 PM.

Overnight Services

Sending overnight mail from Paris is relatively easy. Besides DHL, Federal Express, and UPS, the French post office has an overnight mail service called Chronopost that has special prepaid boxes for international use (and also boxes specifically made to mail wine). All agencies listed can be used as drop-off points and all have information in English.

Major services include:

DHL (6 rue des Colonnes, 7, PHONE: 01-55-35-30-30 www.dhl.com; 59 rue Iéna, 16, PHONE: 01-45-01-91-00).

Federal Express (63 bd. Haussmann, 8, PHONE: 01-40-06-90-16, www.fedex.com/fr; 2 rue 29 Juillet, 1, PHONE: 01-49-26-04-66; 08-00-12-38-00 information in English about pickups, www.ups.com).

UPS (34 bd. Malesherbes, 8; 107 rue Réaumur, 2, PHONE: 08-00-87-78-77).

Postal Rates

Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost EUR.67 for 20 grams, EUR1.25 for 40 grams, and EUR1.98 for 60 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom cost EUR.46 for up to 20 grams, as they do within France. Postcards cost EUR.46 within France and EU countries and EUR.67 to the United States and Canada. Stamps can be bought in post offices and cafés sporting a red "Tabac" sign.

Receiving Mail

If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, have mail sent to American Express (if you're a card member) or to "poste restante" at any post office.

Like many capital cities, Paris is expensive; the good news is that it is less expensive than New York City, London, and Tokyo. If you avoid the obvious tourist traps, you can find plenty of affordable places to eat and shop. Prices tend to reflect the standing of an area in the eyes of Parisians; much sought-after residential arrondissements such as the 7, 16, and 17 -- of limited tourist interest -- are far more expensive than the student-oriented, much-visited Latin Quarter. The tourist area where value for money is most difficult to find is the 8 arrondissement, on and around the Champs-Élysées. Places where you can generally be certain to shop, eat, and stay without overpaying include the streets surrounding Montmartre (not the Butte, or hilltop, itself); the St-Michel/Sorbonne area on the Left Bank; the mazelike streets around Les Halles and the Marais in central Paris; Montparnasse, south of the boulevard; and the Bastille, République, and Belleville areas of eastern Paris.

Note that in cafés, bars, and some restaurants, it's less expensive to eat or drink standing at the counter than it is to sit at a table. Two prices are listed -- au comptoir (at the counter) and à salle (at a table) -- and sometimes a third for the terrace. A cup of coffee, standing at a bar, costs from EUR1.05; if you sit, it will cost EUR1.50-EUR6.10. A glass of beer costs from EUR1.50 standing and from EUR2.30 to EUR6.10 sitting; a soft drink costs between EUR1.50 and EUR3.05. A ham sandwich will cost between EUR2.60 and EUR4.60.

Expect to pay EUR6.10-EUR10.70 for a short taxi ride. Museum entry is EUR3.05-EUR6.90, though there are hours or days of the week when admission is reduced or free.

ATMs

ATMs are one of the easiest ways to get euros. Although transaction fees may be higher abroad than at home, banks usually offer excellent, wholesale exchange rates through ATMs. You may, however, have to look around for Cirrus and Plus locations; it's a good idea to get a list of locations from your bank before you go. Note, too, that you may have better luck with ATMs if you're using a credit card or debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard, rather than just your bank card.

To get cash at ATMs in Paris, your PIN must be four digits long, If you are having trouble remembering your pin, do not try more than twice, because at the third attempt, the machine will eat your card and you will have to go back the next morning to retrieve it. Note, too, that you may be charged by your bank for using ATMs overseas; inquire at your bank about charges.

Currency

January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of the euro. France's former currency, the franc, ceased to be legal tender in mid-February, 2002. All transactions are now made in euros.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.

Exchanging Money

The easiest way to get euros is through ATMs, found in airports, train stations, and throughout the city. ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. It's a good idea, however, to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash and traveler's checks as backup. For the best deal when exchanging currencies, compare rates at banks (which usually have the most favorable rates) and booths and look for exchange booths that clearly state "no commission." At exchange booths always confirm the rate with the teller before exchanging money. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores. Of all the banks in Paris, the Banque de France has the best rates.

Taxes

All taxes must be included in posted prices in France. Prices in restaurants and hotel prices must by law include taxes and service charges: If these appear as additional items on your bill, you should complain.

VAT (value-added tax, known in France as TVA), at a standard rate of 19.6% (33% for luxury goods), is included in the price of many goods, but foreigners are often entitled to a refund. To be eligible for the refund, you must spend EUR182.20 or more for one or more items purchased in one day in one place. You cannot combine purchases from different shops nor purchases from various days to total the required amount. The VAT for services (restaurants/theater, etc.) is not refundable. To receive the VAT refund, request a refund form from the store and fill it out on the spot. The store must complete the form and stamp it, then mail it in a provided stamped-addressed envelope. Alternatively, you can process your VAT refund at the airport. Go to the airport's VAT or (TVA) counter (at your last point of departure from the European Union) and be ready to show the customs official your goods. The customs official will then stamp your forms and mail them. Your refund will arrive either as a credit to your credit card or as a check in U.S. dollars.

Alternatively, once you've arrived home, you can take your plane tickets, your purchases, and the VAT forms to the nearest French consulate to have them stamped (which costs $21); this must be done within three months of the date of purchase. Finally, there are commercial companies which facilitate this process for you: Global Refund is among the largest.

VAT Refunds

Global Refund (PHONE: 800/566-9828, www.globalrefund.com).

Tipping

Bills in bars and restaurants must, by law, include service, but it is customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you're dissatisfied. The amount varies -- from EUR.15 for a beer to EUR1.50-EUR2.30 after a meal. In expensive restaurants, it's common to leave an additional 5% of the bill on the table.

Tip taxi drivers and hairdressers about 10% of the bill. Give theater and cinema ushers EUR.25-EUR.50. In some theaters and hotels, cloakroom attendants may expect nothing (watch for signs that say pourboire interdit -- tipping forbidden); otherwise, give them EUR.75. Washroom attendants usually get EUR.30, though the sum is often posted.

If you stay more than two or three days in a hotel, it is customary to leave something for the chambermaid -- about EUR1.50 per day. Expect to pay about EUR1.50 (EUR.75 in a moderately priced hotel) to the person who carries your bags or who hails you a taxi. In hotels providing room service, give EUR.75 to the waiter (this does not apply if breakfast is routinely served in your room). If the chambermaid does some pressing or laundering for you, give her EUR.75-EUR1.50 on top of the bill. If the concierge has been very helpful, it is customary to leave a tip of EUR8-EUR16, depending on the type of hotel and the level of service.

Service station attendants get nothing for pumping gas or checking oil but EUR.75 or EUR1.50 for checking tires. Train and airport porters get a fixed sum (EUR.90-EUR1.50) per bag. Museum guides should get EUR1.50-EUR3 after a guided tour. It is standard practice to tip bus drivers about EUR1.50 after an excursion.

When traveling internationally, carry your passport even if you don't need one (it's always the best form of I.D.) and make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Entering France

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United States, and the United Kingdom, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days. If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0G3, PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/474-8100 or 0800/22-5050, www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0870/521-0410; www.passport.gov.uk).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

Use of public toilet facilities in cafés and bars is usually reserved for customers. Bathrooms are often located downstairs and are usually unisex, which may mean walking by a men's urinal to reach the cubicle. Turkish-style toilets -- holes in the ground surrounded by porcelain pads for your feet -- still exist. Stand as far away as possible when you press the flushing mechanism in order to avoid water damage to your shoes. In certain cafés, the lights will not come on in the bathroom until the cubicle door is locked. These lights work on a three-minute timer to save electricity. Simply press the button again if the lights go out. Clean public toilets are available in fast-food chains, department stores, and public parks. You can also find pay-per-use toilet units on the street, which require EUR.30 (small children, however, should not use these alone, as the self-sanitizing system works with weight-related sensors that might not detect a child's presence). There are bathrooms in the larger métro stations and in all train stations for a cost of EUR.15-EUR.30.

Paris is one of the safest big cities in the world, good news for the traveling lone female. Although times are changing, the idea still exists that women traveling alone are fair game for troublesome comments and the like; however, dragueurs (men who persistently profess their undying love to hapless female passersby) are a dying breed in this increasingly politically correct world. Certain neighborhoods can still pose problems, thanks to the night trade that goes on around Les Halles and St-Denis and on boulevard Clichy in Pigalle. Some off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods -- particularly the outlying suburban communities around Paris, heavily populated by working-class and immigrant populations -- may warrant extra precaution. Note that smiling automatically out of politeness is not part of French culture and can be quickly misinterpreted. If you encounter a problem, don't be afraid to show your irritation. When in doubt, stick to the boulevards, memorize the time of the last métro train to your station, ride in the first car by the conductor, and just use your common sense. Paris is a giant metropolis, so it is always best to be streetwise and alert.

The country code for France is 33. The first two digits of French numbers are a prefix determined by zone: Paris and Ile-de-France, 01; the northwest, 02; the northeast, 03; the southeast, 04; and the southwest, 05. Pay close attention to numbers beginning with 08. Calls that begin with 08 followed by 00 are toll-free, but calls that begin with 08 followed by 36 -- like the information lines for the SNCF for example -- cost EUR.35 per minute, so be careful. Numbers that begin with 06 are reserved for cell phones.

When dialing France from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the telephone number. When dialing a French number from within France, include the initial 0. For instance, to call the Louvre (local number: 01-40-20-51-51) from New York City, dial 011-33-1-40-20-51-51. To call the Louvre from within Paris, dial 01-40-20-51-51. To call France from the United Kingdom, dial 00-33, then dial the local French number minus its initial 0.

Directory & Operator Information

In France, dial 12 for information to find a French number. For international inquiries, dial 00-33 plus the country code. These calls have a fixed rate of EUR.60.

Another source of information is the Minitel, an on-line network similar to the Internet. You can use one -- they look like small computer terminals -- free in most post offices. To access the on-line phone book, hit the appel (call) key, then type the name you are looking for, and hit envoi (return). Minitel is also useful for tracking down services: tap in piscine (swimming pool) under activité (activity), for example, and it will give you a list of all the pools in Paris. Go to other lines or pages by hitting the suite (next) key. Newer models will connect automatically when you hit the book-icon key. To disconnect, hit fin (end).

International Calls

To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00 and wait for the tone; then dial the country code (1 for the United States and Canada, 44 for the United Kingdom, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand) and the area code (minus any initial 0) and number.

Telephone rates are actually decreasing in France because the France Telecom monopoly now has some stringent competition. As in most countries, the highest rates fall between 8 AM and 7 PM; they average out to a hefty EUR.25 per minute to the United States, Canada, and the closer European countries including Germany and Great Britain. Rates are greatly reduced from 7 PM to 8 AM -- they average EUR.12 per minute.

To call home with the help of an operator, dial 00-33 plus the country code. There is an automatic EUR6.80 service charge.

Telephone cards enable you to make long-distance and international calls from any phone. Don't hesitate in investing in one if you plan on making calls from your hotel, as hotels often add service charges and also have the most expensive rates.

Long-Distance Calls

To call from region to region within France, dial the full 10-digit number, including the initial 0.

Access codes for long-distance carriers include:

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-11; 08-00-99-01-11; 800/222-0300 information).

MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-19; 800/444-4444 information).

Sprint International Access (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-87; 800/793-1153 information).

Public Phones

Public telephone booths can almost always be found in post offices, métro stations, bus stops, and in most cafés, as well as on the street.

Practically all French pay phones are operated by télécartes (phone cards), which you can buy at post offices, tabacs, magazine kiosks, and any métro station. These phone cards save you money and hassle, since it is no longer easy to find phones that take change. There are many different phone cards these days, so to be safe, request: the télécarte international, which, despite its name, allows you to make either local or international calls and offers greatly reduced rates. Instructions are in English and the cost is EUR7.65 for 60 units and EUR15.25 for 120 units. You may also request the simple télécarte, which allows you to make calls in France (the cost is EUR7.50 for 50 units; EUR14.80 for 120 units). You can also use your credit card in much the same way as a télécarte.

All local numbers in Paris and the Ile-de-France begin with a 01, and you must dial the full 10-digit number, including the initial 0. A local call costs EUR.11 for every three minutes.

Tourist Offices

In Paris

Espace du Tourisme d'Ile-de-France (Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, PHONE: 08-03-81-80-00 or 01-44-50-19-98).

Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris (Paris Tourist Office, 127 av. des Champs-Élysées, PHONE: 01-49-52-53-54; 01-49-52-53-56 recorded information in English).

At Home

France On-Call (PHONE: 410/286-8310 weekdays 9-7 www.francetourism.com).

French National Tourist Office: Chicago (676 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, fgto@mcs.net).

Los Angeles (9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212, PHONE: 310/271-6665, fgto@gte.net).

New York City (444 Madison Ave., 16th floor, New York, NY 10022, PHONE: 212/838-7800, info@francetourism.com).

Canada (1981 av. McGill College, Suite 490, Montréal, Québec H3A 2W9, PHONE: 514/288-4264, mfrance@mtl.net).

U.K. (178 Piccadilly, London W1V OAL, PHONE: 020/76399-3500).

Australia (25 Bligh St., Sydney NSW 2000, PHONE: 02/9231-5244).

The major tourist season in France stretches from Easter to mid-September, but Paris has much to offer in every season. Paris in the early spring can be disappointingly damp, though it's relatively tourist free; May and June are delightful, with good weather and plenty of cultural and other attractions. July and August can be sultry. Moreover, many theaters and some of the smaller restaurants and shops close for the entire month of August. If you're undeterred by the hot weather and the pollution, you'll notice a fairly relaxed atmosphere around the city, as this is the month when most Parisians are on vacation. September is ideal. Cultural life revives after the summer break, and sunny weather often continues through the first half of October. The ballet and theater are in full swing in November, but the weather is part wet and cold, part bright and sunny. December is dominated by the fêtes de fin d'année (end-of-year festivities) and a busy theater, ballet, and opera season into January.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Paris:

January 34-43°F (1-6°C); February 34-45°F (1-7°C); March 39-54°F (4-12°C); April 43-60°F (6-16°C); May 49-68°F (10-20°C); June 55-73°F (13-23°C); July 58-76°F (14-25°C); August 58-75°F (14-24°C); September 53-70°F (12-21°C); October 46-60°F (8-16°C); November 40-50°F (5-10°C); December 36-44°F (2-7°C).

Holidays

With 11 national holidays (jours feriés) and five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May, there is a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. If a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, many businesses font le pont (make the bridge) and close on that Monday or Friday as well. But some exchange booths in tourist areas, small grocery stores, restaurants, cafés, and bakeries usually remain open. Bastille Day (July 14) is observed in true French form. Celebrations begin on the evening of the 13th, when city firemen open the doors to their stations, often classed as historical monuments, to host their much-acclaimed all-night balls and finish the next day with the annual military parade and air show.

January 1 (New Year's Day); Easter Monday (March or April); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (VE Day); May 24 (Ascension); Pentecost Monday (May or June); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (Armistice); December 25 (Christmas).

Addresses in Paris are fairly straightforward: There is the number, the street name and, often, the location in one of Paris's 20 arrondissements (districts); for instance, Paris 75010 or, simply, the last two digits, 10, each of which indicates that the address is in the 10th. Due to its large size, the 16 arrondissement has two numbers assigned to it: 75016 and 75116. Paris's arrondissementsare laid out in a spiral, beginning from the area around the Louvre (1 arrondissement), then moving clockwise through the Marais, the Quartier Latin, St-Germain, and then out from the city center to the outskirts until it reaches Menilmontant/Père-Lachaise (20 arrondissement).

Occasionally you may see an address with a number plus bis -- for instance, 20 bis rue Vavin. This indicates that 20 bis is the next entrance or door down from 20 rue Vavin.

Note that in France, you enter a building on the ground floor, or rez-de-chausée (RC or 0), and go up one floor to the first floor, or premier étage. General address terms to keep in mind are: av. (abbreviation for avenue); bd. (abbreviation for boulevard); carrefour (crossway); cours (promenade); passage (passageway); quai (quay/wharf/pier); rue (street); sq. (abbreviation for square).

Bus travel in Paris has always been reputed to cater to that very small number of people who actually have the time to sit and read a good book as the bus crawls through impossible Parisian traffic. All that changed in 2002 when special bus lanes were created throughout Paris -- over 41 km (25 mi) of them in every arrondissement except the 13. Travel time has been cut, on the average, by a whopping 50%. This, of course, is to discourage the stubborn Parisians from taking their cars to work and creating impossible congestion, but it can benefit you, too: Buses are a scenic, convenient, and efficient way to see the city and the new ones are equipped with air-conditioning -- something to think about on one of those sweltering August days.

Paris buses are green and white; route number and destination are marked in front, and major stopping places along the sides. The brown bus shelters, topped by red-and-yellow circular signs, contain timetables and route maps; note that buses must be hailed at these larger bus shelters, as they service multiple lines and routes. Smaller stops are designated simply by a pole bearing bus numbers.

Of Paris's 250 bus routes, three main lines (bus numbers PC 1, PC 2, and PC 3) circle the grands boulevards and are known as the petite ceinture (small belt). These run in a continuous circle covering the major portes, or entryways, into the city center. Other bus routes reach virtually every nook and cranny of the city. During weekdays and Saturday, buses run every five minutes (as opposed to the 15- to 20-minute wait on Sunday and national holidays). One ticket will take you anywhere within the city; once you get off at any point, that ticket is no longer viable. Bus transport is ideal for the elderly, women with children (easy access with strollers), and anyone who likes to take the scenic route. Needless to say, seats are more difficult to find during rush hours.

A map of the bus system is on the flip side of every métro map, in all métro stations, and at all bus stops. Maps are also found in each bus. A recorded message announces the name of the next stop. To get off, press one of the red buttons located on the silver poles that run the length of the bus, and the arrêt demandé (stop requested) light directly behind the driver will light up. Use the rear door to exit.

The Balabus, a public orange-and-white bus that runs between May and September, gives an interesting 50-minute tour of the major sights. You can use your Paris-Visite, Carte Orange, or Mobilis pass, or one to three bus tickets depending on how far you ride. The route runs from La Défense to the Gare de Lyon.

Regular buses accept métro tickets, or you can buy a single ticket on board (exact change appreciated) for EUR1.30. If you use a single ticket, be prepared to punch it in the red-and-gray machine located at the bus entrance. If you use a weekly, monthly, or Paris-Visite or other pass, you must show it to the driver (but need not punch it). Bus tickets can be also be bought in the métro, or in any bar/tabac store sporting one of the lime-green métro symbols above its street sign.

Most routes operate from 7 AM to 8:30 PM; some continue to midnight. After 8:30 PM you must take either the métro or one of the 18 "Noctambus" lines (which are indicated by a brown owl symbol at bus stops). These bus lines operate hourly (1:30 AM-5:30 AM) between Châtelet and various nearby suburbs; they can be stopped by hailing them at any point on their route. Paris-Visite/Mobilis passes are accepted on the Noctambus. A regular ticket costs EUR2.30 and allows for one transfer.

For additional bus information, contact RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 75008; 53 bis quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris; PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14, www.ratp.com).

Note that driving in Paris is best avoided, and parking is very difficult to find. You're better off renting a car only when you want to take excursions out of the city.

Car Rentals

Rates in Paris begin at approximately $70 a day and $200 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include the 20.6% tax on car rentals or, if you are picking one up at the airport, the airport tax. To save money, make reservations before you go; you can generally get a much better deal.

Renting a car through a local French agency has a number of disadvantages, the biggest being price; the local companies simply cannot compete with the international giants, which can offer bilingual service, the security of name recognition, extensive services (such as 24-hour hot lines), and fully automatic vehicles. SNAC (PHONE: 01-44-05-33-99), a France-based agency, can be useful if you are interested in luxury cars (convertible BMWs) or large family vans (Renault Espace, for example).

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/522-9696; www.alamo.com).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 0870/606-0100 in the U.K.; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/526-2847 in New Zealand; www.avis.com).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0870/156-5656 in the U.K.; www.budget.com).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-6000; 0124/622-0111 in the U.K.; where it's affiliated with Sixt; 02/9223-1444 in Australia; www.dollar.com).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the U.K.; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 09/256-8690 in New Zealand; www.hertz.com).

National Car Rental (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 020/8680-4800 in the U.K.; www.nationalcar.com).

Requirements

In France your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is not necessary unless you are planning on a long-term stay; you can get one from the American or Canadian Automobile Association, or, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. You must be 18 years old to drive, but there is no top age limit for those whose faculties are intact. To rent a car you must be 21 or older and have a major credit card, though you are charged a EUR16.80 per day supplement if you're under 25.

Road Conditions

France's roads are classified into five types: A (autoroute), N (route nationale), D (route départmentale), C, or V. Roads marked A (autoroutes) are expressways. There are excellent links between Paris and most French cities. When trying to get around Ile-de-France, it is often difficult to avoid Paris -- just try to steer clear of the rush hours (7-9:30 AM and 4:30-7:30 PM). A péage (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies but can be steep. Certain booths allow you to pay with your credit card.

Gasoline

Gas is expensive and prices vary enormously; anything from EUR1 to EUR1.40 per liter. Credit cards are accepted in every gas station. There are very few self-service gas stations in Paris.

Parking

Finding parking in Paris is very difficult. Meters and ticket machines (pay and display) are common: make sure you have a supply of coins. If you're planning on spending a lot of time in Paris with a car, it might be a good idea to buy a parking card (carte de stationnement) for EUR15.25 or EUR30.55 at any café sporting the red "Tabac" sign. This card works like a credit card in the parking meters, allowing you to avoid the inconvenience of finding exact change. After depositing enough money (or using your parking card) in the ticket machine, you will receive a receipt to display on the inside window of the vehicle, the dashboard on the passenger side being best. Note that in August, parking is free in certain residential areas. However, only parking meters with a dense yellow circle on them indicate free parking in August; if you do not see the circle, pay up. Parking tickets are expensive, and there is no shortage of the blue-uniformed parking police. Parking lots, indicated by a blue sign with a white P, are usually underground and are generally expensive (due to the 24-hour surveillance systems).

Emergency Services

If your car breaks down on an expressway, pull your car as far off the road as possible, set your emergency indicators, and, if possible, put the emergency triangle located in the trunk of your car at least 30 yards behind your car to warn oncoming traffic; then go to a roadside emergency telephone. These phones put you in direct contact with the police, automatically indicating your exact location, and are available every 3 km (2 mi). If you have a breakdown anywhere else, find the nearest garage or contact the police. There are also 24-hour assistance hot lines valid throughout France (available through rental agencies and supplied to you when you rent the car), but do not hesitate in calling the police in case of any roadside emergency, for they are quick and reliable and the phone call is free. There are special phones just for this purpose on all highways -- just pick up the phone and dial 17.

Rules of the Road

In France, you drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at traffic circles, where you should watch out for just about everyone. To be safe, slow down at all crosswalks and make sure no one is coming from the right.

You must wear your seat belt, and children under 12 may not travel in the front seat.

Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on expressways (autoroutes), 110 kph (70 mph) on divided highways (routes nationales), 90 kph (55 mph) on other roads (routes), 50 kph (30 mph) in cities and towns (villes et villages).

Some important traffic terms and signs to note: Sortie (Exit); Sens Unique (One Way); Stationnement Interdite (No Parking); Cul de Sac (Dead End). Blue rectangular signs indicate a highway; triangles carry illustrations of a particular traffic hazard; speed limits are indicated in a circle, with the maximum speed encircled in red.

Taking the métro is the most efficient way to get around Paris. Métro stations are recognizable either by a large yellow M within a circle or by the distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway bearing the full title (Métropolitain).

Fourteen métro lines crisscross Paris and its suburbs, and you are seldom more than 500 yards from the nearest station. At several points in the city, the métro network connects with the RER (Réseau Express Régional, or Regional Express Network), the commuter trains that go from the city center to the suburbs. RER trains crossing Paris on their way from suburb to suburb can be great time-savers because they make only a few stops in the city (you can use the same tickets for both the métro and the RER within Paris).

It's essential to know the name of the last station on the line you take, as this name appears on all signs. A connection (you can make as many as you like on one ticket) is called a correspondance. At junction stations, illuminated orange signs bearing the name of the line terminus appear over the correct corridors for each correspondance. Illuminated blue signs marked sortie indicate the station exit.

Métro service starts at 5:30 AM and continues until 1 AM, when the last train on each line reaches its terminus. Some lines and stations in Paris are a bit risky at night, in particular Lines 2 and 13. But in general, the métro is relatively safe throughout, providing you don't walk around with your wallet hanging out of your back pocket or travel alone late at night.

Métro tickets and passes are valid not only for the métro but also for all RER and bus travel within Paris. Métro tickets cost EUR1.30 each; a carnet (10 tickets for EUR9.30) is a better value. The best deal is the weekly (coupon jaune) or monthly (carte orange) ticket, sold according to zone. Zones 1 and 2 cover the entire métro network; tickets cost EUR13.25 a week or EUR44.35 a month. If you plan to take suburban trains to visit places in Ile-de-France, consider a four-zone (Versailles, St-Germain-en-Laye; EUR21.65 a week) or six-zone (Rambouillet, Fontainebleau; EUR28.10 a week) ticket. For these weekly/monthly tickets, you need a pass (available from rail and major métro stations) and a passport-size photograph (many stations have photo booths).

A one-day (Mobilis) and the two- to five-day (Paris-Visite) tickets assure unlimited travel on the entire RATP network: métro, RER, bus, tram, funicular (Montmartre), and noctambus (night bus). Unlike the coupon jaune, which is good from Monday morning to Sunday evening, Mobilis and Paris-Visite passes are valid starting any day of the week and give you discounts on a limited number of museums and tourist attractions. The price is EUR8.38 (one-day), EUR13.70 (two-day), EUR18.30 (three-day), and EUR26.70 (five-day) for Paris only. Rates for children ages 4-11 are approximately half of these prices.

Access to métro and RER platforms is through an automatic ticket barrier. Slide your ticket in and pick it up as it pops out. Be certain to keep your ticket during your journey; you'll need it to leave the RER system and in case you run into any green-clad ticket inspectors, who will impose a hefty fine if you can't produce it.

For additional métro information, contact RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 8; 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6, PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14; www.ratp.fr), open daily 9-5.

The easiest way to get a taxi is to ask your hotel or a restaurant to call one for you, or go to the nearest taxi stand (you can find one every couple of blocks); cabs with their signs lit can be hailed but are annoyingly difficult to spot (and they are not all a single, uniform color).

Taxi rates are based on location and time. Within Paris, daytime rates, A (7 AM-7 PM), are EUR.55 per kilometer (½ mi), and nighttime rates, B, are around EUR.90 per kilometer. Suburban zones and airports, C, are EUR1.10 per kilometer. There is a basic hire charge of EUR2 for all rides, a EUR.90 supplement per piece of luggage, and a EUR.75 supplement if you're picked up at an SNCF station. Waiting time is charged at EUR19.85 per hour. Note that chauffeurs are now required to take a fourth passenger for an average supplement of EUR2.30. It is customary to tip the driver about 10%.